Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 F250 - Sudden Loss Of Power
Jun 14, 2016
On the highway doing 100 mph. during af take over, my Ford F-250 6,4 Super Duty 2008, lost nearly all power. (now it is like driving my old hummer h1)
Engine and car runs/starts great, only 10 minutes uptil 60 mph. now.
My mechanic has given up. He checked following:
EGR = OK
HOSES = OK
ERROR CODES = NONE
INTER COOLER = OK
PARTICLE FILTER CLEAN = OK
TEST WITHOUT EXHAUST = NO DIFFERENCE
FLUIDS = OK
Hopefully something I can fix with my hammer. The car has 85.000 miles on the clock.
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I have a 2001 f250 super duty extended cab with the v10. Over the past week it has been running fine and it will all of a sudden lose power and dies. I've been able to start it back up once right away and a few times it started up after a few hours of messing with it.
So, after the truck dies it will crank and crank but will not start. We have checked fuel pressure and nothing. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump and it turns on. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box and got a fuel pressure reading of 40 psi. But when we crank we have no pressure.
When we apply direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box the truck will only crank and not start.
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My 2010 F250 V10 120000 mile has a sudden loss of MPG. It usually is around 12 MPG but now I'm at 8 I checked the air filter and its clean I checked the tire pressure and there all up to pressure. I'm probably going to try the fuel filter next.
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I am trying to diagnose a problem with a friends 2002 f350 7.3L truck. the engine has approx. 140,000 miles and is all stock, no programming or aftermarket parts. Anyhow, he said driving down the road the other day the engine all of a sudden lost power and the truck wouldn't go any faster than 45mph. he said taking off from a stop sign, the truck has no power and takes forever to get up to 45mph. after this issue began, he has changed the fuel filter & screen, air filter and fuel pump. The check engine light if OFF, no active fault codes.
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My excursion suddenly lost power after sitting in a long traffic jam. I have a scan gauge II set up and didn't see any signs of over heating however when I went to accelerate back up to highway speed my motor revved up to 3000 rpm and just lost power I ended creeping on the side of the road at about 15 mph and barely maintaining that. The motor was not willing to revv up. I reached a spot to pull over and shut it down for about 15 minutes and started back up and drove off with no noticable issues. I have 211,000 miles on this motor and I am going to change my coil packs, I think they have been there since the truck was sold new....I changed four of them to address a miss and have six left, I will also be changing my fuel filter. We are about to pull our camper across country....about 1400 miles..
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I drive an 08 f-350 with 120k no tune or deletes..(yet). I was driving home yesterday when I all of a sudden I have a lack and power. I then notice i have no boost at all. I heard an exhaust leak and instantly checked my boots on inter-cooler pipes....
After farther inspection, the bolt fairy came and I am missing some bolts on my up pipe where it meets turbo. Is this break in vacuum system the reason I'm having no boost? What is easiest way to get to up pipes without removing cab? Where did the bolts go? I got to get this fixed because I need truck to get around town.
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One of my work trucks is a 99 F-250 5.4L. Up until recently it's been running strong. Then one day it's like someone flipped a switch, and now it runs like it's losing power.
Symptoms: a quick short stumble when you first hit the accelerator. While driving, it takes the entire pedal to accelerate. Even with the pedal to the floor, it won't keep up with traffic. Driving uphill, it will barely maintain 40 mph.
I've checked everything I can think of. Fluids and filters are all good. Battery and alternator are good. There are no trouble codes. I have Autoenginuity with the Ford Bundle, and the truck passes every diagnostic test I throw at it.
There's no smoke. It still idles pretty smooth, although there is a slight and very quick random shudder in the idle that has started at the same time it started losing power.
Transmission is good. The last thing I tried was to change the fuel filter, but that made zero difference. Quick question, does the tank on the 5.4L trucks have a pickup screen like the diesels? If so, I might try blowing some compressed air through the fuel line and see if it dislodges anything.
So that's where I'm at. It has no power, yet I can't find a single thing wrong with it.
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I have a 99 F-250SD with 5.4 automatic that just all of a sudden started running unevenly at random times, but frequently. There is a pending code P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire. I have had the truck for 12 years and it has run perfectly for the last 10+ years and just started this problem, it did not come on slowly but all of a sudden. I have seen on here that some people say that 90% of the time a PO300 is a bad cop. I replaced the plugs 60k miles ago when I had a bad coil on plug 10 years ago that did not set any codes, but this seems very different that more than one cylinder seems affected, like maybe 2 or more cylinders are not firing momentarily.
There is a big power loss momentarily while it happens, but doesn't happen for long. The fuel pressure stays pretty constant (30 psi at rail) even while it happens, and it can affect the idle as well as while accelerating or cruising at speed. I cant imagine more than one coil on plug would be skipping at the same times or fail at the exact same time, but maybe having only one bad cop could cause this much hesitation? Does the code that indicates random/multiple cylinder misfire rule out only one bad cop? It just seems like running on 7 cylinders wouldn't be so noticeable. Could a sticking egr valve cause unevenness at idle and higher rpms and set a P0300 code? Would checking manifold vacuum be they way to see if egr valve is not working correctly.
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Last night was getting down to freezing. I drove out of my buddy's driveway, stopped to close the gate behind me, put it in gear and started to drive away, about 5-10mph. I left off the gas as I rounded a gentle curve, then got back on the pedal as I exited the curve. All I got was a revving engine, as if I was in neutral. Checked to make sure I was in gear, and same result. I stopped, engine running, and put it in park, and then back into gear. Nothing. Drive, low, Reverse nothing. I did see the rpm change slightly. engine runs normally.
No fluid loss, no mechanical noises indicating something breaking. No weird smells. Fluid level is as good as I could read on that crappy trans dipstick. Truck ran flawlessly up until that moment. the transmission is a BTS with about 100K, so I'm fairly certain it's not the mechanical diode notorious for that year. My problem description does not seem to fit the failed diode anyway. I did run across a post that better matched my problem description and that was the transfer case motor. I have 4WD, but was not in 4WD at the time.
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I have a 2004 F250 Super duty that had a battery die (I left the keys in the ignition switched on overnight) and after jumping the battery off the vehicle started up but now I have no power door lock or window functions. Any reason a dead battery issue might affect the power locks and windows?
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When passing or going up small inclines on freeway, my F250 seems to make the shift to the passing gear but then almost a complete loss of power. Jerks around for a few seconds and finally provides enough power to at least get back to the original speed. (It feels kind of like the lurching, etc. I used to get when those stinking GM diesel injectors would act up in the 1990's.)
It also stays in first/second as I punch it while entering the freeway and doesn't want to make the shift. I can put it in neutral and race the engine, so I don't think it is an engine problem, unless the transmission is electronically controlled. I have a lot of computer dashboard gauge resets after falling to zero and sometimes have to set and release the parking brake to get the auto door locks and windows to work. (That started after a car break in where the door electronics were apparently pinched, but that was a couple of years ago.)
Does it sound like the transmission or electronics? In the old days replacing an automatic transmission filter seemed to fix a lot of transmission issues. Not an option now, but would I expect to see any results doing a transmission flush and fluid change? It's probably been about 60000 since I had that done. (157000 now).
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty with the 5.4 Triton motor with a 5 speed. I bought the truck a couple months ago, and it had a bad manifold leak (not surprised lol). but it ran fine just noisy. So i had a shop do new gaskets and bolts. Then my problems started.........
When you start up the truck she runs fine and some times drives fine. I will be driving along and its like some one hits a switch and i suddenly loose all power it spits and sputters and i have to down shift to make any kind of hill.
So I figures I had a misfire i got a light on for cylinder 5. So I decided to change all coils and plugs hoping that would clear things up...... well it didn't. It ran great for roughly 15 miles then it started to do the same thing again. I've changed air filter and fuel filter also.
When it starts sputtering i sometimes get a check engine light on and then it goes away. when the light is on the codes are:
P1151 A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.
Read more at: [URL] ....
P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2
Read more: P1152 FORD Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2 | AutoCodes
Both codes come on together always. but it will go away when the sputtering clears up. I just checked fuel pressure its at 32psi at a idle.
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I have a question for everyone out there with any insight of the harsh shifting with these trucks. I have a 2003 f250 super duty with the 5.4l and 126,000 miles on it. The problem I'm having is some weird shifting that has been going on over the last six months and I feel like I am just throwing money at this problem. My truck shifts hard from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th with the most violent shifts being from 3rd to 4th! Between shifts is where it Is sluggish I mean if I am not on the throttle from those shift points I switch from driving a truck to a geo metro it is night and day with the felling of loss of power!
I have had it scanned at my local ford dealership and had a full diagnostics done and all I got was "it's since truck and a nice bill to come with it" they couldn't find a thing. So far I have all new motorcraft plugs, cops, changed fuel filter, had my catalytic converter checked if it was clogged,run on two different power balance tests! Still nothing! So now I'm lost I have heard things about these trannys and the lock up but I was told this only had to do with overdrive and it wouldn't happen at other gear changes. I still drive it everyday I have just figured out ways to calm it down if I stay off the gas when it's about to shift for a couple seconds then get back on the gas it is like it never happened.
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I bought 08 6.4 113000 on it 4x4 lariet drove 300 miles home. No problem 2 days later runs fine for 45 minutes than loses power and sputters up hills starts no problem every morning every time wait awhile sometimes runs fine was on e when test drove canged both fuel filters oil and drained 8 quarts tranny fluid and replaced it. When problematic rpms wont go over 2 turbo psi seems high seems in sync with rpms dropped...
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My truck is a 2003 f250 / 2wd automatic, 7.3 powerstroke, 284000 well maintained miles.
Just last week I sprug a large oil leak and had to replace the hoop outlet o rings..problem solved. This week I can drive 15-20 miles on the freeway and the truck starts to act like ota running out of fuel. Bogs down to 40mph then starts missing. I pull over, and when revving I have un burnt fuel and oil smoking out of my tailpipe. I let it sit for 5-10 minutes and it will be fine for the rest of the drive and this happens intermittently, there is no pattern.
The truck has a ton of power, starts great hot or cold. I did a ton of research and found a IPR could possibly cause this, as could plugged screens in the fuel pickup. Then I read about all the injector harness issues but I don't think that I my issue.
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6.4 diesel 2008 F250.... I have been having lots of trouble with low power and sputtering of this diesel truck . It almost seems like a fuel filter but I changed them out 2 times now and the same thing keeps happening . It has been a very cold winter here and if there was any water - it would freeze.
If I am going down the highway and it starts to sputter. I put transmission into neutral and shut motor off with key. Start it up and it's good for less than a minute or two and it's back to sputtering.
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My 2008 f250 6.4l just got out of the shop a week a go new small block and new pistons, throwing #1 constrabution code,map sensor and #1 cil misfire you can hear air come out of the intake, I am guessing valve train or lifter..... other problem two days after the truck throwing the codes i went to take it to the shop and would barely drive floored struggle to go 10mph put it in park rev up normal will go in reverse normal just no power in drive, no transmission codes, had it towed to the diesel shop, mech said might be a fail safe on transmission from the engine codes? it has egr/dfp h&s mini maxx tuner, the truck has 170k on body 11k on new engine before the new block that was put in last week.
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I've got a 08 f250 ext cab long box with the 5.4 gas. I know I know 3/4 ton gas. Trucks got NO power at all loaded and unloaded and really bad fuel mileage. Driving like a grandpa in town I'm getting 7mpg on the hwy unloaded I get 9 or 10mpg loaded on the hwy the trucks working way harder than it should and getting 6mpg.... I'm wanting to swap the 5 4 for a 6.0. Reason I saw 6.0 is my buddy's done egr delete. Bulletproof oil cooler head studs and a edge with attitude chip and has great power and reasonable fuel mileage. How hard is it going to be swapping the motors.
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I have a 2008 f250 superduty with the v10. Just today I was driving and engine picked up.slight miss it's rainy. I thought coil pack, but it left me on side of road. Got fired limped home won't go more than 40mph. Runs rough, no power, checked codes and get P0340, p0357, p1336, and P2195.. Where to start.. My daily driver and have to get back on road.
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While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
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I was driving my 1999 F250 5.4 Triton last week, after noticing a thump while backing my small boat down the ramp (sounded like u joint) I went and parked. When I got back in the truck it starts fine but when I shift into reverse, it's staying in drive, anywhere I put my shift lever..... It's in drive! I even noticed that even all the way up into park it feels like it's in drive, but with something holding it back. If I give it gas while in park it will go forward! I have tightened the two torx screws under dash, pulled cable off and tried shifting by hand (clicks like switching gears, but still in drive) pulled pan, everything looked good there, fluid is nice and red, smells good, no metal in pan? It's the 4r100od tranny.
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