Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 F250 Running Rough In Low Gears - CEL Came On
Aug 18, 2015
2008 F250 5.4L 150k. My truck has been driving pretty rough in low gears, rough idle, and today the check engine light came on then getting on the interstate the light started blinking. I ran the code it came back 0307,300,308,300. After doing some research on here, I've come to the conclusion to change out the coils on 7 & 8. Questions are, should I change plugs as well? And how important is it to keep all the boots (of all 8) the same color (brown or black)? And should I expect to change all the rest soon?
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I have an 2003 F250 7.3 Diesel 4wd. Yesterday I knew I was low on fuel but I don't think I ran out of diesel. My gauge was above the "E". 50 miles left on my overhead readout, but you never know. All of a sudden the truck misfires and is running very rough before it dies on me. I get it towed home.
Thinking that it possible I ran out of fuel and screwed up my fuel pump, I bought a new fuel pump and fuel filter, installed them and I have the same symptoms. I am guessing I lost my prime, who knows. I have 180,000 miles on it and haven't ever had engine problems.
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I bought it and changed the fuel filter and it was dirty. Then ran a tank of gas with seafoam and then with lucas fuel injector cleaner. Still nothing. It idles like its missing and as long as you are light on the pedal it revs up fine but if you're heavy on the throttle its. Its has no codes that's why I haven't replaced the coil packs and plugs but they have been ordered. I just thought there would be an engine code if any of the coils or plugs were bad. Looked for a vacuum leak but couldn't find any. The donut gasket on the pass side is bad would that cause it to run shifty with no code.
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I have an 02 f250 V10 with a rough idle (90K Miles). It's not horrible but it's obviously not running perfect. Everything seems ok when I am up and driving, especially at freeway speeds. I recently noticed that if the truck is in park and I run the RPM's to 1500 or 2K and quickly let off the gas it will die. It never throws any codes. So far I have replaced the IAC Valve, fuel filter, O2 Sensors, PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air filter. Plugs and boots were replaced 5K miles ago. Fuel trim levels on both banks are running around -3.1 to positive 3.5 based on what the computer is telling me. Also according to the computer the vacuum sits steady around 25 at idle (+ or - .2). I don't have a manual vacuum gauge, just relying on the computer. I've also gone around to every plug and disconnected both the injector wire and the COP wire and they all seem to equally affect the idle as well as the fuel trim levels.
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I have an 02 f250 5.4. I just did the intake manifold. I also changed the spark plugs and the valve cover gasket. Following this I drained the oil and filled it with fresh oil.
It started right up but it felt like the engine was really vibrating and running rough. The check engine light than came on. I don't have one of those tools to diagnose it.
What could be wrong?
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My truck has been doing this for a while now but it has progressively gotten worse from about three months ago when I went through some deep water. I don't believe it had to much to do with the water, I just think that the water is what didn't deal the situation and lead to the problem becoming more prevalent. But continuing, yesterday it got down into the high 20's and my engine started acting up (rumbling coughing, surging while at/leaving complete stops) and then it finally through a code for once and I head over to the neighborhood AutoZone expecting to get a lean code (because when the engine is acting up really badly I can unplug the fourth cylinder fuel injector without the engine acting any differently) but instead I received the p1152 (bank two lack of switching (rich)) code....
At this point I believe it is a faulty fuel pressure regulator, but without a good diagnostic obd2 reader or a fuel pressure gauge I'm not sure what to do. I'm currently in college, money is low, and I'm trying to take an accurate shot at the part that needs to be replaced so that I don't have to buy more than one part. Of course AutoZone says o2 sensor but I changed both about five months ago.. I've been chasing this diagnosis around for way too long now. (It's on a 2002 ford f250 5.4l super duty)
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So, I have a 2007 f250 with the 6.0. When she's cold she starts fine but runs rough like she has a miss. When she warms up the miss goes away and it runs pretty good. But if I shut it off it won't start for about an hour or so.
ICP sensor has been replaced.
FICM is putting out 50v
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CEL came on last night, OBD code PO420, truck is an 06 f250,5.4? Btw, truck running rough, no power on acceleration, in gear at idle, runs rough....
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My 2008 F250 Super Duty is riding very, very rough. I put in new heavy duty Bilstien shocks 2 or 3 years ago, and I would think they would last longer than this.
Are they any other causes I can look at to see what is causing this truck to ride rough?
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2005 F250 6.0L ... My truck is running really rough when the engine isn't all the way quite warmed up. once the truck is fully warmed up to normal running temp it runs good. I am getting four engine codes. P0672, P0673, P0674, P0676 These codes say 2,3,4, and 6 glow plugs have a open circuit. Can this be the cause of my problem?
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So I have a 1995 f-250 4x4 with the 460 and a E4od. So when I bought the truck I drive it two hours home and when I got into town it started shifting really hard and searching for gears. So I flushed it and installed a new oil filter because the oil in it was brown. Very brown. And smelled awful. So it shifts good, but what's happening now is that it shifts good in drive when it wants to.
In the morning it works great but when I get in it to leave after school it shifts really late (around 2900 rpm) and hard. So I put it in first and then into second but when it's time for third and I put it in drive it shifts back to first. But if I stop shut it off for a few minutes and turn it back on it works fine. It only does this after it's been sitting in the school parking lot all day. I replaced the mlps but not the connector due to I didn't have time at the moment. Could it be the tps? Something mechanical?
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On the surface, the F-250/350 seems to have great brakes: big rotors, vented front and rear, and dual-piston calipers front and rear. But, I have two problems:
One is the annoying 'grunt' the brakes make every time you change from Park to Drive, or Park to Reverse, or Drive to Reverse. Its as if under normal brake pressure, the brakes cannot hold the truck from moving against the torque convertor engaging. It's not just my truck, I've heard older SD's with the 5.4L or diesel do this too. If you push the pedal really hard, it won't grunt.
The second problem I think is the root of the first: mushy brakes. Maybe I'm just used to driving european cars with firm brakes, but every time I apply my truck's brakes, it feels like I need to bleed the system! The truck does slow pretty well, and I realize it's heavy, but how can the pedal feel be improved? Maybe replacing the rubber sections with braided stainless?
Lastly, the truck has a 'hill-hold' feature which is retarded in an automatic transmission. My problem with it, is that sometimes it sticks on...engage drive, the truck won't move...a second later its like something gets unstuck and the truck kind of lurches forward.
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My wife was using my truck and she felt it lost power and ran rough, so she pulled over can contacted me. We both are deaf, but I can hear some and it sounds really bad. So, I had it towed home and I recorded it.
2001 F250 5.4 V8....
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V-10 running rough at idle, chugging. a problem has developed with my 2004 E-350 V- 10 after having a new fuel filter installed and the induction service done . Picked it up from a local shop and it was running rough after bringing it in when running great! I figured maybe it fouled a plug or something so I drove it home but it didn't improve so I brought it back and had new plugs installed. It is still running rough and wanting to almost stall when accelerating from a stop and the shop cant figure it out , not showing any codes.
I'm thinking maybe they caused some type of vacuum leak that is so far undetected. The killer is it came to the shop running great !!
No other problems with the vehicle, I drive it every day and have owned since new. 278,000 on it now and it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned.
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I have a 04 f250 with aprox 95k on it 5.4L I knew I was over mileage for a due oil change I haven't been driving it much it crossed my mind, as I am usually very adamant about changing fluids. I went to check my oil and only a smudge of oil on the dip stick. I know this is not good but the truck runs fine, no noises, no knocking, not a chatter from the valve train. Oil pressure was good everything seemed fine did I get lucky? I know it wasn't good I am not going to let that happen again everyone think I dodged the bullet?
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My 1999 f-250 superduty shows overheating after it runs for awhile but it doesn't actually overheat the gauge just shows it. What it does is drops down to four cylinders. Is my heads blown or could it be something else it has 260,000 on the engine.
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My 2000 SD 7.3 has developed a quirk. For some reason the trans has decided to shift late in all gears. This only happens once, then resumes shifting normally. However the OD indicator on the shifter blinks from that point forward. Once the engine is shut down and restarted. The sequence starts again. Late shift, through the gears, once, then shifts normally with light blinking. Fluids are up and clean.
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I have a 2000 Ford F-250 6.8 v10 that is running rough and cutting out when I give it gas but I can turn the key off and turn it back on and it will run right, what it could be?
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2001 V10- F250.. Runs rough- had the computer put on it and was coming up with P0174 codes (I think that is right)- In any case I replaced the Mass air flow sensor- checked for any vacuum leaks visually- I did not see anything obvious.... still runs like crap.... smells like gas when idling.... anything else I can check??? The check engine light went off finally (probably due to the MAF)- but it's driving me nuts- Any hoses I have not located I need to check?
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Lately my 2001 F250 5.4 engine is running rough when I am accelerating or keeping it certain speed. It feels like it is jerking. Like if the truck lost power for a second. This will go on for few minutes. Where to start to trouble shoot.
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So about a month or so ago i had my alternator replaced because my truck wouldnt start and had it checked and replaced well tonite it started rough dont know what to think what/where should i check first?
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