Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 F250 - Heater Core Replacement?
Dec 17, 2014
Started to attempt to replace the heater core in my 08 SD 6.4. Didn't know the entire plenum has to come out in order to replace it. How to remove the plenum? My buddy is a Ford tech but I just am not getting what he is telling me and there is next to nothing coming up when I try to search.
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I recently replaced my heater core on 2001 F250. Would be a simple job if it weren't for the quick connects on the hoses. Any tool to take these apart on the truck where space is limited?
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I've got a 01 sbcc 2wd 5.4 gasser and I've gone thru 3 heater cores in 18 months. Is there something I'm missing?
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I have a leak where my heater core tube goes into the intake at the rear pass side of engine. I have read that this part is pressed in. I dont want to remove the intake since i just paid $400 to have a new gasket kit put on. My question is can I bypass this tube with a hose from the water pump like in this video?
FORD 4.6 , 5.4 , 6.8, HEATER HOSE UNDER INTAKE REPLACEMENT THE EASY WAY !!! - YouTube....
If I can do a rubber hose like in the video I was to make sure that the tube just goes through the intake and that it does not supple coolant into the intake??
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Today I noticed a leak at the heater hose assembly at the right rear of the engine compartment. It appears to have special connectors and that appears to be where the leak is coming from.
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I got my 1999 f250 super duty v10 about a month ago. It had 200,700 some miles on it. It's now at 201,865. My issue is when I turn on my heater I smell coolant. It's kinda strong. No leaks that I can see. Not in the ground or in the cab or from what I can see of the heater core. It only smells when the heat is on, no smell on the cold setting. It sat for months before I bought it from a dealership. What it could be? Ok now it sounds like I have the ticking death sound. The one people have said happens when spark plugs are about to fail. So I guess new plugs are in order.
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2001 F250 5.4. The heater will blow warm air at idle and on the second highest setting, once you start moving or turn the fan up to full blast it instantly cools off. The coolant level is fine. The engine runs at a normal temp.The blend door does work. I just replaced the thermostat, and both hoses for the heater core are hot.
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I bought the wife a truck a few weeks ago and she said the heater wasn't working well and was noisy. So I hoped in it at lunch today and she was right, barely any heat output and its noisy coming from behind the passenger airbag.
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99 F250SD V10. There are two connections on the heater core at the firewall. Is there an 'inlet' and an 'outlet' or does it not matter? Put a cummins in the truck, the V10 has been out for a while and cant remember which one is which.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe . Since January 2013 I have had the heater core replaced 3 times. The repair shop has done the last 2 at no charge to me. The dealership ran a diagnostic and could find no reason for the repeated heater core failures. I feel there has to be something going on with the car that is causing the heater cores to keep failing. When the original one started leaking I had around 70,000 miles on my car. I bought it new.
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Sunday I bought a 2001 f250/5.4 to replace my 91 f250. I didnt drive it yesterday, but this morning on my drive to work the heater was very weak, it seemed to blow warm for the most part, but was barely pushing air even on high. I flipped it over to A/C to see if it blew any harder and it did. Does the blower motor need replace? if so why does the AC blow harder than the heater?
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The heater blows cold air from the driver side only. Very cold. Vey hot on passenger side.I have read that this is likely a blend door issue. Comments? Fluids are full. I hear slight noises from under the dash like "click click" like a door is trying to activate?? Truck out of warranty. If it is the door I heard the driver side is not as tough to install. Again comments? Instructions?
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Replacing the evaporator? I am just curious how big of a job it is. I have the a/c equipment to service the system. Its on my 01 f-250 with a 7.3.
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OK, I've done a lot of things over the years on cars and trucks but never messed with ball joints on a F250SD 4x4 with 160k miles. Found out today when getting new tires that the ball joints are shot. I trust the shop but know I can do this my self. So if I'm going to do this what should I replace? Since I'll be doing this I want to know from those with more time under the truck than me what else should I be replacing at the same time. I have done the front wheel bearings and of course shocks. Just what am I in for and what other parts and brands should I be using? Bushing kits for stabilizer bar? Replace stabilizer bar with heavier after market?
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My truck at idle sounds like it has aftermarket cams and the exhaust coming out of the tail pipe smells really rich. when driving down the road my heater controls default to defrost. Also when I fill up with gas it takes forever to get it to fill all the way. I am lost on where to begin with the problem [ I did check the tank vent hose and their is no blockage] Possible vacuum issue?
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My 2011 F-250 just started having a weird heater problem. My truck heater gets up to temp just fine but after cruising down the highway for about 15 minutes or so it starts blowing out cool air. I can turn the controls to defrost and back again and it blows warm, not hot but warm then cool again. It just started a couple of days ago. Temp gauges show normal temp also.
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I have a friend with an 01 f250 super duty who needs to replace sway bar bushings.
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I'm having trouble disconnecting the transmission lines to replace them. I can't get them off. I have the tool. Can I replace the fittings in the radiator?.
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How to change my map light bulbs over the front seat of my new (to me) 2010 F250 King Ranch with a sunroof. I have tried to remove the whole assembly with a plastic trim tool with no success. I have pulled as hard as I dare and figure there must be a procedure I am missing. It appears to me that the whole assembly has to be pulled down.
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I am replacing the head gaskets on a 2006 Ford F250 6.0 .... I have heard that I should replace the head bolts with studs. Do I torque the studs just like the bolts?
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I'm in the process of replacing the clutch master cylinder in my 99 F250 7.3L. I've got the kit that includes all the components already pressurized in a complete assy. Anyway, I know that in order to remove the clutch pedal component, (the part that stick's thru the firewall) your supposed to be able to rotate it about 45deg and it should pull free from the piston attached to the clutch pedal. But, what happens when it will not come free? I've already got a new replacement kit and I can see where that stainless rod inserts into the plastic component, but I can't seem to get the one on my truck to release?
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