2008 F250 Lariat ... A/C is blowing real weak in all modes and temperatures. Did some reading and found that the evaporator and heater core could be clogged. I am just going to go ahead and assume taking the dash out of the truck and replacing both heater core and evap core would be the best fix. On to my question.. Where are the main mounting points for the dash?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford F-250 with the 6.0 egr has been deleted and so on. Truck has been very trustworthy until now... It all started last week. I would get in and it would fire right up, drive 15 miles to work all is still good. Time to go home try to start and it would act like the batteries were weak with a weak crank until it finally takes off and starts. This intermittent situation has been happening but I just assumed that the batteries were going bad. I drove to work this morning truck fired right up and now that it is time to go home the truck only has a weak crank and wont fire up. I tested the batteries and they were low on cranking amps.
Replaced them with two new batteries. The issue still exists and didn't change. After reading through threads I found that it could be the FICM I checked it out as was shown through the other threads. With the key on only it was reading 51 vdc with someone trying to start the truck it was reading 48-50 vdc... Yes the truck does have fuel in it and yes the oil is good to. It seems that there is something electrical going on for sure due to the way it has been an intermittent problem for a week or so. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade but can fix anything if I know where to start.
Ok, I have a 2004 F250 FX4 4wd 5.4L with almost 160K miles.
Sometimes, mostly when it's hot, and I go to restart it, it will crank and crank and crank, so I let off and then try again and it will start. Then other times I will have to do it 3-5 times before it starts, or it will start with real low RPM's for a second then cut out. I have been told this truck does NOT have a Fuel Pump Driver Module (My previous F-150 did). So I'm thinking the fuel pump is just temperamental. Having this issue or replaced a fuel pump before? What brands, places, etc. are good to buy at a decent price?
I tried to look online and was confused about a "midship, rear, and center tank". All I know is my truck is an extended cab and has about a 29 gallon tank.
I have a 2000 Ford-F250, V10, 6.8 liter Gas. The issue is that when I try to start the vehicle it will start, but then start to idle real low and then die. If I try to restart sometime it will and sometimes you have to let it sit. I can also pump the gas and it will sometimes start.
View 6 RepliesWhile in Tow/Haul with my 5th wheel when slowing down probably at 5 or 10 mph the last downshift is very hard and the brake pedal gets real soft until full stop. Afterwards the brake pedal is firm. Tow/Haul without the trailer is fine. It's an '06 F250 Supercrew 4x4.
View 6 Replies2006 F250 gas King Ranch. My AC wants to switch modes on its on. I can have it on vents & it will go to defrost then back to vents every few minutes. Any clues? Air is cold.
View 4 Replies1999 F250 7.3 4x4 switch on dash with manual hubs. No visual vacuum hoses cracked.
Not sure what this component is but when I wiggle the wire at the orange cap a small motor kicks on.
I have an 01 f250 5.4l standard. #19 fuse keeps blowing. I hAve taken the gauge cluster out and do not see any wires melted or burned. It blows the fuse as soon as I turn the key over. I have read things saying the overdrive but that doesn't work with mine.
View 4 RepliesThe A/C on my 05 F250 6.0 recently would not blow out through the vents. So, I replaced the vacuum pump and the reservoir tank. Once I replaced them the A/C still starts through the defrost vents but, after a minute or so starts to blow through the vents. I also noticed that the vacuum pump never stops running. Is this normal or is there something else I need to look for?
View 5 RepliesGot a 99 V10 blowing a lot of oil out of the exhaust pipe, to the point where I could fog the neighborhood, cylinder number 10 had original spark plug dirt down in the hole know one wanted to clean it out so I did put new plug and coil now smokes a lot, also truck has 173559 miles, did a half diesel half used motor oil flush tonight, wanted to go for 15 minutes only made it to 14 to much smoke, will put fresh oil in tomorrow, what could be the problem, piston ring blow by, intake manifold leak, burning what I think is oil could be coolant, head gasket no bubbles in oil or antifreeze and antifreeze and or oil are not mixing. Is it easier to pull the heads off with pulling the motor which looks fairly easy or leave it in the truck.
View 2 Replies2001 F250 5.4. The heater will blow warm air at idle and on the second highest setting, once you start moving or turn the fan up to full blast it instantly cools off. The coolant level is fine. The engine runs at a normal temp.The blend door does work. I just replaced the thermostat, and both hoses for the heater core are hot.
View 4 RepliesI have 2005 F250 6.0 XLT. I was driving the other night and all of a sudden my dash lights went out. I noticed I was being flashed from other drivers and discovered that my parking lights are not working. A preliminary check of fuses I discovered fuse #17 (15a mini) was blown. I installed and new one and upon turning my lights on, the fuse popped again. My headlights and turn signals work properly. It appears I have a wire shorted to ground somewhere on this circuit.
The truck is completely stock with the exception of an aftermarket radio which I installed two years ago.
I checked all the fuses with my test light and they are all correct (both sides of each fuse). I disconnected the gray connector and black connector in the driver side rear of the truck to isolate the issue. New fuse pops as soon as I turn lights on. I completely removed the tail lights, trailer 7 pin connector , completely removed both headlights. I did not disconnect the roof running lights or the mirror lights. I am completely stumped.
My 2005 F-250 6.0 liter Diesel FX4 Lariat is blowing AC through defrost only all the time. I have manual locking hubs and when I engage 4x4 it works perfectly through the ESOF switch. So I am assuming the vacuum pump and lines to the hubs are in good working order but there is possibly a cracked line or fuse blown? I've only had the truck for 2 days and it just happened after purchase. I'm a little unfamiliar with checking vacuum but have done reading and I believe I can do it. I am going to get a manual hand pump and pump to 20lbs and loss shouldn't exceed 1lb per minute. I just need to know which direction to look. Everyone else had their 4x4 not working and I seem to be the only one posting that has ESOF 4x4 capability when the defrost only issue is on.
View 11 RepliesJust bought a used 15 F-250 with 57,000 miles, yesterday tried to start it and nothing happened. Checked the starter fuse and it was blown, replaced it and it immediately blew when i tried to start the truck. Pulled the starter and had it tested and it was good, replaced the relay and still blowing fuses. I have got it to start a couple of times but as soon as you kill the engine and try to restart it blows the fuse. What was the fix? Truck had no problems trying to start before this problem started.....
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 f250 superduty 7.3L diesel and my air conditioner just randomly started blowing HOT south texas air. I tried to recharge it with refrigerant but the gauge said that it was over charged as soon as I plugged it into the low side port. What is wrong???
View 5 Replies04 F-250, blowing tons of smoke. I've replaced the ICP sensor, crankcase breather hose (it was broken at the clip), cleaned the turbo, and EGR valve. Any other ways before I take it to a shop to get bent?
View 1 Replies2004 5.4L F-250 ... it's a one owner truck I bought brand new in 2003 and only has 50,000 miles on it.
I have the 2V 5.4 engine no tuner or chip. 4x4 with 4" lift and 35's and I changed the rear to 4.88's. I love the truck but my problem is when I hit a large bump or drive too fast on a dirt road the fuse#23 that controls the PCM will blow. Consistently. I have to keep a box of 20 amp fuses handy. I have a 2 post lift in my shop and have scoured over every wire that is connected to the fuse. The EVAP solenoid, AC Clutch, Transmission solenoids and the O2 sensors. I only have 2 sensors I could find one on each side of the headers.
I couldn't find any rubbing wires or exposed wires. I am at a loss. It only happens when I hit a large bump. Could it be the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid?
My brother in law is a mechanic and he brought over the diagnostic computer and when it blew while hooked up he seemed to think it was the TCC solenoid because when it engages the chart shows it angling up but when it disengages it drops off straight like it should. My truck seems to run fine when the fuse isn't blown, but when it blows it goes into a limp mode with the tranny stuck in 3rd or 4th gear and I have to drive it home in 1st.
My wifes truck is having some issues right now. Last week I was driving it down the highway, and the gauges all went off, the door buzzer was sounding, and the door locks where going up and down constant when I had my foot off the gas pedal. Found the fuse and fixed it with a replacement, but its down it three times all together since then?
View 9 RepliesThe other day I was checking out my parking aids (they kept saying something was behind me when there was nothing there) and the horn just started blowing by itself, constant on until I disconnected the batteries. Been a few days and just got back to working on it, checked the horn switch in the airbag and it is functioning fine. Hooked the batteries back up, no horn, but after a couple of minutes I start getting little honks out of it, then locked on again. Where I should go from here? Truck was parked, switch off, engine off today when I hooked the batteries up. Never started it or turned the key on.
View 6 RepliesMy 2006 F-250 (6.0 Diesel) started blowing black smoke under acceleration yesterday. It has 181k miles on it now. No loss of power, no rough idle, no smoke unless there's a load on the engine like accelerating, but then it doesn't matter if it's 1500 or 3000RPM, just the higher the RPM the more smoke it blows from the exhaust, dark black.
The truck has ARP headstuds, no programmer. Replaced both batteries and the A/C system about 2 weeks ago. About 3000 miles ago it got new glow plugs & harnesses, new alternator, all fluids changed, new aftermarket EGR cooler, new EGR valve, new turbo & actuator, new EBP sensor, new HPOP incl pipes and IPR.
Trucks starts up just fine, runs normal, just yesterday going down the Freeway about 65mph I noticed it started smoking black going up a hill, then smoke went away going downhill... Now every time I accelerate it's smoking black. Taking off from a stop sign it made a little puff of white smoke then went back to black smoke, but that only happened once.
Where I should start looking? No codes so far. But I have an AutoXRay EZ-Scan 6000, what sensors do I need to look at?
The fuel pump fuse keeps blowing intermittently. I would assume it's a wire grounding out somewhere but I can't seem to find one yet. I do have a faulty purge solenoid on the canister but I don't think that would cause this. The reset switch doesn't seem to be tripped either.
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