Quick question, 2008 F250, 6.4. If the EGR Valve sticks/malfunctions, can this cause the truck to go into constant/frequent regens? I am asking because I am about to replace my turbo for a seal failure. The only code thrown before turbo failure was EGR flow insufficient. I want to figure out what may have caused the seal failure so that I can get that fixed before I blow through another turbo.
View 10 RepliesI am running a 2008 Ford F-250 with the DPF Delete and the Mini Maxx Tunner. I have replaced the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) as well as the EGR Valve and housing troubleshooting this issue. Both the Engine light and the coolant icon come on when I turn on the vehicle. I am getting a P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low code on the Mini Maxx.
From a cold start with codes cleared if I turn the engine to ON even without starting the engine the Engine codes will come on and the the Mini Maxx will read engine coolant temp 302 and will go into Defueling Mode. I have repeatedly tried removing and reattaching the connector to the ECT thinking it could be loose connection. I can't drive the truck because there is no power and i know the engine is not hot because I have let it sit all night before doing these tests. I do not have a scanner to test other than the Mini Maxx. Other notes: I have checked Coolant I have checked Oil
F350 Super Duty sometimes the front driver side brake sticks and will pull to the left while driving and pull hard to the right while braking. It has a slight front end vibration when the symptoms are present. The wheel will be boiling hot to the touch and the smell of brakes burning is obvious.
After the truck sits, it will be good with no incident for weeks.
With the wheel still hot and on jackstand, the front wheel seems to turn freely until the brakes are applied, and seems to spin free again as brakes are released.
It seems to happen when I have a "hard braking" incident going forward until I park the truck and let it sit. If i consciously brake soft, the brakes seem to be fine.
I have read some of the posts and this is different in that it is intermittent.
I have replaced the brake hose as I thought it could be the "check-valve" symptom. No luck.
I have checked the sliders and re-lubed and they slide freely.
The caliper is relatively new and the fluid in the system is fresh as i recently changed the rear brake line and completely flushed and bled all four corners.
Do i just change the caliper, or, is there a way to find out if one of the pistons is intermittently binding? I would hate to invest in a new caliper if that is not the issue.
does it take a special tool to remove pcv valve from 2005 e-450 v-10
View 1 RepliesI have a 2016 f350 diesel dually (my first diesel).I changed the oil in the truck myself back in April and learned a messy lesson of how much pressure is pushing on 13 quarts of oil. I would like to replace the oil drain plug with a Fumoto F106SX M14-1.5 Sx series drain valve. I have only one question for everyone, have any of you that replaced your drain plug with a drain valve had it snap off while driving? I do not off road, except for driving through a campground when towing a 5th wheel trailer.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 f250 with a 5.4l 3v. Where the pcv valve is located is it in the valve cover or attached to the intake and what does it look like? I have pulled the hoses off both sides but I have not found it let.
View 3 RepliesI can't find canister pressure valve hose. It looks cut from the pressure valve in some way. Tried following it from gas tank but I've lost it through the chassis.
View 4 RepliesCEL turned on this morning heading to work. Truck drove completely normal with no signs of altered performance.
Stopped by Autozone after work and they checked it with a code reader.
Came back with P0442 - "Purge Valve Solenoid"
Part sold with or without bracket.
Is this a common part to fail? How can I be sure it has truly failed? Is it acceptable to reset CEL and see if it fails again? If so, how do I reset? Where is part located?
2003 F-250 SD 7.3L Supercab
Problem 1: Right rear
Occasional smell of heavy grease, white smoke billowing out from under wheel well (once), black fluid leaking from lower area of caliper. Told it could be axle seal or caliper. I'm leaning toward axle since the caliper is only 1 yr old (NAPA OEM).
Oddly, I also notice a loud, piercing screech when going around traffic circles or exit ramp clovers to the right. I thought this was my trailer until it did the same thing without it.
Axle or Caliper?
Problem 2: Left front
Local mech advised the bleeder valve is broken off in to the unit and cannot be simply replaced. Insists it needs whole caliper. If pedal is all the way up there is a temporary breaking capability then it slowly creeps to the floorboard, hits a brick, and keeps rolling. Replaced master cylinder a few months ago when it same. Drove it for the last 2 weeks and problem is back.
Removing broke-off bleeder valve instead of replacing cals?
I'm looking at replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 02 f-250, it's a 7.3L.
Looking at them on line there are many different brands. What have you used on your 7.3L, and which has worked the best for you?
I have a 2006 f-250 with 5.4L 3valve engine. I was worried about my variable valve timing system because my engine sounds pretty rough and I hear a lot of valve chatter. I know that low oil pressure can be a big problem on these engines. Here is a pic of my oil pressure gauge. This was taken while the truck was warm while parked.
View 14 Replies I am having some trouble with my 4R100 overheating.
Truck is a 2001 F250 XLT 7.3L with 244k miles on it. According to previous owner, the transmission was replaced around 185/190k but there was no paperwork to prove it.
I recently had a leak from one of transmission lines coming into the bottom of the radiator (the one on the passenger side). I replaced it and topped off the little bit of fluid that leaked out. Last weekend I installed a temp sensor in the transmission and hooked it up to my pillar gauges. The first few days driving with it, the temp was at/around 180 degrees, 25-30 degree outside air, unloaded on the highway averaging 70-75mph.
Today on the way home, the temp got to 180 after 35-40min of driving then continue climbing. I pulled off the highway after 1.5hrs and the temp was almost at 210 degrees. I let it idle for 5-10min and the temp didn't change. I turned it off and let it sit for 15 min. Upon starting it back up, the temp had dropped to 180. I continued driving and the temp climbed back up to 210 within 35 minutes. (65-75mph, 24 degree outside temp, unloaded). Once off the highway I averaged 35-45mph on the back roads to my house. The temp started to drop back towards 180 degrees.
Before I start throwing money at it, and installing a 6.0 cooler etc. I am thinking there is something else wrong here. I am going to look at new lines and replacing/repairing the bypass valve on the transmission. I am driving 2hrs to work each way and thats when the temp really starts to go up. The fluid doesnt smell burnt, its still nice and red. I am going to try and flush the lines this weekend and see if something is plugged/caught. I ordered an inline filter today and will put that in with a new hose from the transmission to the radiator (old one is rusted).
I have a 2002 F250 5.4with Air Conditioning. The valve covers are leaking and the gaskets need to be replaced. I am attempting the valve cover gaskets. I was able to get the drivers side cover off with some difficulty. For the passenger side valve cover. There is very little " no" room to get at the bolts. I read somewhere that I may have to drop the engine on that side. I will do that if I have to.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 that has recently started blowing white smoke. I replaced the EGR Valve but no luck.
View 3 RepliesMy 2000 f350 is leaking oil from a bolt on the passengers side valve cover. it is one of the bolts on top of the valve cover. Can I just remove the bolt and put a rubber washer under it or do I need a new valve cover?
View 2 RepliesOk I have a p1316 code so I was told to change valve cover gaskets so I did. Now starts for 4 sec and dies, what is going on....
View 2 RepliesI just picked up a 2001 F350 with the 5.4L with 200k miles. When I test drove the thing the engine sounded fine. I got it home and noticed that it occasionally has a loud knocking noise that is coming from the Left Valve cover area. It sounds like an old Chevy 6.5L Diesel ...
It comes and goes, Hot or Cold. It seems like it usually goes away when driving with RPMs above 1500 or so, however I took off with it yesterday and the noise would not go away, it seems like it might be low on power when the noise comes on, but then again it always feels low on power, so who knows.
I have changed the plugs, oil, and verified there are no exhaust leaks at the manifolds.
Here is a video of the noise: YouTube....
I dont think it is the timing chain, as it seems like its coming more from the center of the cover, when placing my hand on the cover near the timing set there is no vibration or anything that would lead me to believe its the chain.
All of my searching so far turns up 3V stuff, and little info on the 2V engines. The valve cover looks like a nightmare to get off, who have to work on these things (including me).
I just bought myself a 2003 F250 XLT with the V10 in it. Low miles, not beat, 6 speed, very happy with it. I noticed today that there was an inconsistent tapping coming from the passenger side valve cover. I searched online and was pointed towards the PCV baffle. I pulled the breather hose off and stuck my finger in the hole, and the baffle is indeed detached. Now I know that I need to pull the valve cover now to at least remove the baffle; is there anyway to reattach the baffle, or do I need to buy a new valve cover?
View 8 RepliesI'm thinking of doing a dash swap on my 99 super duty to the 2008 super duty dash, steering wheel, etc. I know the od in my truck is mechanical and in the new one its electronical is it possible to swap without having to redue the whole electrical system and computer? Is the steering wheel going to line up and the ducting? How should i approach the wiring?
View 14 RepliesIm running an 2008 F-450. And towing a goose neck trailer with the total weight of 12,000, including the car in tow. We were traveling from Cleveland to Columbus last week. Traveling south down Rt. 71. Which has some subtle gradient here and there. But nothing extreme. I haven't tried any mountain runs yet. when i started noticing the temp gauge climbing from middle normal range to high normal.
It would then kick out the cruise control. It would cool off after about 5 minutes of slower driving. We were only traveling at 65 mph. Outside temp was about 78 degrees. I shut off the A/C and it seemed to improve. Should it be over heating like this. The capacity of the 450 is 25,000. I am at half that right now. Are these truck prone to heating problems. And if so. Is there a high performance supplement cooling system.
Seems recently my 2008 f250 diesel wants to go into 4wd all by itself. It's the electric switch on dash with the auto/lock front hubs. I'm thinking either the dash switch or the accuator motor. Where to start though... Also I can turn the switch to 4 wheel high and it doesn't go in.
View 1 Replies