Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 - Cluster Light Does Not Indicate When 4x4 Switch To 4 High Or Low?
Nov 9, 2011
2008 F350 when I switch the 4x4 to 4 Hi or low the cluster light doesnt indicate it has switched into 4x4 probably 50% of the time it works 50 it doesnt! I have pulled the transfer case shift motor off tested and working installed a new 4x4 switch, checked the relays it has been to Ford two times last week and once they pulled an error code that says (switch, 4x4 module or wiring problem)! Ford did reprogram the 4x4 module just to see if it would fix it and no change all this leads me to believe its the 4x4 module!?
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I have a 2010 F250 super duty. I use it for work so I am not sure what happened to it as others have driven it, but here is the issue. When i start it up in 2wd, the 4x4 Low light flashes continually. If I turn the switch to 4x4 high, the 4x4 high light flashes continually. if i turn it to 4x4 low, that light flashes continually. I have read the forums but haven't been able to find the problem/diagnosis for this.
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Does the switch cluster for the upfitter switches pry out? from the top, bottom? do you need to access from the side? Pictures welcome
I also have the brake controller installed
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1999 F350 Crewcab 4x4 dually V10. Fan switch only works on High. All fuses and relays look Good. Is it a bad speed control switch? What can it be?
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I hooked up one of my upfitter switches in my 2007 F-350 diesel.
I would like to do the same thing in my 2015 F-350 diesel truck.
I would like to use it to attempt to get the truck warm before use as I am experiencing poor heat characteristics in this truck.
See this thread,
[URL]
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I have an issue with my 2008 f250 6.4 where the gauge cluster is dark and truck won't crank. The only light on the dash is the airbag light. I have tried reprogamming with my Spartan tuner, checked fuses, removed aftermarket alarm, charged batteries. I scanned and got two codes. P1260 theft detected and a u code no comm with cluster.
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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On my 2008 SD F350 my number 1&2 settings on the fan don't work. Only 3&4. What's the problem? How do i fix it?
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I have a 2008 f250 with 6.4. Was sitting my truck with key on and motor off listening to radio on lunch and my wipers came on by themselves. Switch was in off position and we're in slow speed. If I turn switch they wouldn't change speed til high position. Turned key off and back on and they came on still. Pulled 30 amp fuse in battery junction box to shut them off.
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driving my '06 f250 last night, i noticed a couple random dots and dashes of orange on the warning light cluster. upon shining a flashlight on it, realized it's the ABS light (or what's left of it). there's literally 2 tiny sections of it visibly lit up. Upon shutting the truck off, and just turning the key on, I noticed the whole middle row in the warning light cluster isn't illuminating with the key on. top row (turn signals, high beams, "wrench") and bottom row all seem to illuminate fine during start up and key on. I'm mainly nervous that the check engine light could turn on and i wouldn't know. is it possible that one row of the warning lights could go out? and only partially? seems strange....
[URL]....
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I have a 2005 F 350 with a 6.0 Diesel! My heat quit on my wife and I the other night! I replaced some fuses and started the truck to make sure the heat was working and it was! So I thought while I am here I should replace some bulbs in the cluster that were out!
I took the cluster out, looked at the bulbs and they looked oK so I put them back in and put the dash back together! When I went to start the truck once I turned the switch on my gauges and lights started flickering on and off fast and all it will do is just click when I try to start it! I just had it running 15 minutes before this!
I went through all the fuses and if I take one of the relays out and turn the switch on all the lights and gauges seem to work right but when I try to start it, nothing! I replaced the relay and it starts flickering again! I had the relay checked at Napa and they said it was good! The relay was for the Powertrain module!
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I have a 2010 f250 XL v10 6 speed 4wd. I was looking into adding factory fog lights to it. I have the factory plug by the headlight. I've read that some XL trucks just need the fog lights, wiring harness for the lights and the headlight switch with the fog light option.
So today my buddy (has an 09 f250 xlt with factory fog lights) and I decided to try his headlight switch in my truck to see if it would send power to the plug by the headlight. Plugged it in, turned the fog lights on and had no power. Actually the little fog light light on the switch didn't light up that I noticed either. So we compared wiring harnesses going to the headlight switch. Both trucks have 9 wires. #21 fuse in the kick panel is intact and good.
What else my truck would need in order to use the factory fog light parts? I know I could run new wiring and use an aftermarket switch but I'd rather it be factory.
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Was checking fuses for why my 3rd brake light and pedal adjustment switch does not work. Was also looking for a fuse to tie into so that a light in the cab floorboard will stay on when the headlights or marker lights are on... After trying several spots to no avail (finally putting it into the bright headlight fuse). I got the light to work.... But now my ABS light stays on!!! Also 3rd brake still not working...
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I have an 01 f350, my reverse lights only work when I hold up my shifter, like its almost into park. I think my reverse light switch is bad, but I don't know where its located.
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I just ordered a set of Hella 4000x driving lights for my 2006 F-250. I have an aftermarket bumper on it, so the fog lights were taken out as there was no place to put them once the new bumper was installed. The question is, will I have any issues hooking the new driving lights up directly to the fog light system so I can just run them off the fog light switch instead of having to install the new switch on my dashboard? I know the new lights are 12V, but I couldn't find info as to whether the fog lights were running 12V as well.
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Bought a 08 F350 with the 6.4 Liter, with 80k mikes on it. Was traveling up an incline. Both Turbo's were engaged, when suddenly I lost boost, and PSI dropped all the way down. They barely create any pressure now. Checked intake, also checked boots too inter cooler. All seem fine. After driving it for about five minutes at low PSI, a check engine light came on. It was a sudden loss of power.
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Having a problem with my truck and I'm stuck. About 9 months ago my 4wd stopped working. Turn the switch and no light or noise. I took a look at fuses and everything was good there. I let it go but now I need 4wd. Today I checked every fuse and all of them were good. I moved to the relays checked them and they were good but for the heck of it replaced them. Checked for power at the pins. The one that needed power had power. Next I went to the switch had 12 volts there. Pulled switch and test with a multimeter and ohms were good. Went. Down to the motor and tested for power there not power to the motor. Is there anything else I'm missing Esof not working. 2002 f350 7.3 auto....
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2008 6.4L .... My ECT 191-197 and EOT 220-230 high side on interstate no load on truck air temp 70 degrees. Is this a sign thermostat failing. Is there a certain temp to determine if your cooler is fully clogged or just partially clogged? I plan on doing a flush with restore then restore plus. Is there any point in using restore with temps this high. Or do I have to break down and buy the half kit to bypass OEM oil cooler? I need this fixed ASAP hauling the RZR to arkansas in a week. I know ill mess something up if i try to pull a load with those temps.
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All you need to do is pull out the head lite switch find the solid brown wire that is the running lights wire now find the yellow wire this is fog lights wire (these wires are on the gray plug ) you need a 3" piece of wire and 2 blue wire connectors it slips over the wires no cutting any wires then slide wire in the other end of the blue connector after you jump them your fog lights will come on with running lights and will not go off with high beams...
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So, on my drive home from the pub tonight, my clusters went dead, then came back on, then died again. This behavior repeated for the 5 mile drive home. In addition, I believe the lights weren't working as well. The engine was still running, so I simply continued on home and parked for the night. The only thing I can think of might be the problem is the fact that I replaced the serpentine belt the day before yesterday. Is it possible that the alternator is not charging the battery properly and that is what my problem is?
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2003 f350 5.4L auto 4x4. The lights stopped working on the dash so now I can't see the speedo at night. All the dummy lights and gauges work. I checked the 3 fuses for the cluster from the owners manual. All 3 are good. Here's the thing, fuse 35, Checked for continuity, my meter read 192 not all zero's like it should have. I pulled the fuse and rechecked it, it was good.
I replaced it anyway. rechecked with fuse in, I get 192 again. pulled fuse again, checked both sides of socket for voltage and I'm getting 12.64 volts on both sides of the socket. Even though the fuse reads good, could this be the reason my cluster isn't lighting up? Is there a fuse on the back of the cluster?
I see a lot of threads on the cluster lights being out but its usually no tail lights or power windows or other things, and if there's a solution nobody is posting it. Mine is simply no lights on dash or I should say (No Back lighting). All my lights inside and outside work.
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