Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 - After Replacing Fuse Right Rear Brake And Signal Won't Work?
Jun 24, 2013
I have a 2008 f-250 2 days ago all light stopped work except the head lights found a blown fuse replaced with a new fuse and now all the lights work except the right rear brake and signal but the running light works so i know its getting power looked at the wireing and it all looked good to me oh ya pulled my trailer in and same thing everything worked but the right brake and signal ....
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2013 f-250 crew cab short box, 6.2 gas with 48k miles. Right rear turn signal does not work...SOMETIMES. I took the brake light assembly off...bulb is good, turned on signal and the bulb will flash so I put it back together then drove a couple miles and then signal quits working again. I can't find any loose/corroded/bad wires at the bulb socket and I can't get the bulb to quit working when I have taillight assembly apart, (trying to replicate failure). There are never any blown fuses either.
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Every time I step on the brakes, there is a bright spark in fuse #13. My brake lights, turn signals and hazards don't work. At this point my truck isn't drivable.
According to the owner's manual in my truck, says circuit #13 is for "stop lamps, CHMSL/hazard, trailer tow stop lamp, and speed control."
I'm assuming that the hazard part covers the turn signals as well, but I know the cruise control works even when the fuse is blown. I used it last night on the way home (this was before I realized I didn't have brake lights).
So I know I have a short somewhere. The only mods I've done to the lights are aftermarket headlights, but if the fuse only gets blown when I step on the brakes, I don't see what that would have to do with it. Also, the lights have been installed and working for about a month before this started. The only thing that I did around the same time was install the gauges. I ran the power to them from #5, the customer access circuit.
Are there any other "common" areas for this to happen? I already removed the rear brake lights and it didn't work. I am quickly running out of 20A mini fuses.
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I have a 1995 Ford f250 Powerstroke and i do not have turn signals, rear running lights, brake lights or reverse lights. i checked the fuses and they seem to be good but i dont want to tear everything out to check the harness if it could be a bad ground. any insight?
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My sons 2006 F350 brake lights and rear turn signals quit working. When the headlights are on, all the lights operate but the rear turn signals and brake lights do not nor do the emergency flashers. The front signals work but flash very rapidly. Although I'm not an auto electrician, I'm fairly mechanically inclined but the fact that the front signals work, the rear don't and all lights work as lights, just not as turn signals or brake lights.
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i was replacing my glow plug relay and my ratchet hit one of the small wires and sparked. i went in the truck and I heard a really fast clicking noise at the fuse box. I opened it up a very top small relay was the one clicking. i replaced it and it still clicks. the truck is TOTALLY DEAD no power to anything. I checked ALL the fuses under dash and under the hood, they are all good. both batts are at 12. 9 volts. what would kill the whole truck like this. is there a main fuse somewhere? I really need to get this going tonight. it's gonna rain all day tomorrow and this is my only Tow Truck for my business.
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How to replace the 2 "drop down" rubber brake lines on a '13 250. They appear to be secured to the bracket that looks like is the bracket that's holding the DEF tank on. And by the quick look without much digging in appears as though I have to take the DEF tank out or significantly loosen it to get at them. I'm no neophyte when it comes to this stuff and will take the DEF tank out of necessity, was just wondering.
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How to replace the parking brake cable from the pedal down to the connector on the frame? We got a 2000 F350 in the shop with a bad cable, and i never did one. And I don't really want to mess this thing up trying to figure out how to change it.
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I plan on replacing the brake lines on our 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty. The rear line blew out right by the hose, on the framerail. All five lines, all five hoses. What size lines? Looks like front two are 3/16", rear two over the axle are 3/16", and the rear line in the frame is 1/4".
We are removing the bed (2013 bed) to make things easier. I am thinking fuel lines and parking brake cable while the bed is off. I have stainless steel hoses from KLM performance and I am also planning on replacing the rear rubber hoses. Obviously I'm using nickel copper line. There shouldn't even be an option for other brake line.
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Long story short, I need to replace the box on my 2008 F350. Do the boxes from '14-'15 models line up? I know the fuel door is different, but is the rest the same?
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I need to replace the gear oil in the rear differential on my Ford F -350 and was wondering what the best sealer to use.
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I have 1999 ford f250 superduty 5.4 v8 I noticed that my tail lights were not working I replaced the fuse as it was blown break lights worked until i cranked up and applied brakes. I replaced fuse again an checked brake lights they worked fine until i cranked truck and applied the brakes i did notice the wires were hot at brake pedal switch when they worked while not cranked. I replaced the cruise control release switch I was told that may be the problem since cruise didn't work. it fixed the cruise control but as soon as i pressed the brakes fuse blew again.I replaced brake pedal switch didnt fix it.
I then noticed a little smoke under tailgate i looked and the wire coming out of connector was hot while brakes applied and not cranked. i disconnected that wire put a new fuse in and brake lights worked in center light and passenger side without blowing fuse driver side however does not work. Because I disconnected the brake light wire to driver side green wire. When I reconnected the driver side brake light wire fuse blew.
So I have it narrowed down to driver side brake light. here is my problem. I have checked all the wires that i can see for bad or frayed /worn naked places i have found none I can get to the wires beside gas tank running the rail to check but it is doubtful that it is spot as nothing is rubbing along there. Could it be a relay somewhere? can i just run a new wire from brake light? if so where to i connect to? Is there a wiring harness i can just buy and replace the brake light wires from brake light to power source I have ran out of things to check on my own...
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I am looking to replace the carrier bearing and (u joints while I'm in there) on my 08 F-250. I do not have access to a lift so this will be done while on the ground. Am I asking for trouble by doing this on my back?
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I replaced the bulb and it's still not blinking and doing the quick blink on the front and mirror bulbs.
The bulb turns on when on parking lights; it just won't blink.
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I went to have the code read, and it was no signal from the rear ABS speed sensor. I replaced the sensor, and the light is still on. Also my speedo is off a bit. It is reading about 7-10 miles an hour faster than what it should. The mechanic can't seem to find the issue. I have a 06 F250, Powerstroke.
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I need to replace a bulb (I hope) in my center clearance light and need to remove the amber lens cover. Lots of info about installing for those without but I haven't been able to find anything about removing the lens cover so that I can replace a bulb. I'm working with a 2008 F-450.
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I have an 2001 Ford F250 V10 CCSB. I installed 3157 LED Brake//Turn light. Now when I turn in my left turn signal it blinks fast which I can live with that but it would be nice if it blinked at the regular phase. Here my big problem. When I turn on my right turn signal there's a loud squeal in the cab of my truck. !!!
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2008 F350 6.4 diesel. I have the listed truck in the heading, my #9 fuse which is for the interior lighting, lighted running boards and it is a 15a fuse, keeps blowing as soon as I touch the fuse to the fuse box to replace it. I have look at all the map lights and interior lights and can not find any thing out of the ordinary, all of these light were working fine, also my cruise control and the back up sensors stopped working and they are not on the same fuse and the other components that are on the circuit with the crule and back sensors still work, I know that this is a lot of different things but hate chasing electrical ghosts...
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I decided to go ahead and do a rear block replacement. I'm going to install the Ready lift 4 inch blocks.
I have both u bolts and nuts off of both sides. Rear stabilizer bar disconnected and both shocks disconnected. However, when I raise the rear of the truck, the axle raises as well. What could be holding it on still? I noticed there's a nut in the middle of the leaf springs. Do I take that nut off? I just don't know what could be keeping it from separating.
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Two weeks ago did a road trip to NH from RI and i heard a slight dragging only at low speed (10-15mph) in my left rear tire. figured the caliber was dragging a little, it was. Before arriving in NH the brake light came on. Long story short i get back to RI and the left side noise gets worse and starts to lock up. I finally replace the rotor which was warped, pads, and caliper which was bad.
Was driving it same day and still here the same dragging and screeching noise and the brake light is still on. On my way home the left side locked up at low speed without hitting breaks and slid the truck, mid you all parts are new on that side. I am not sure what it could be at this point something in side the axle?
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Can't find my manual and getting ready to haul camper in an hour...no trailer parking lamp power on truckside plug. No blown fuse but heard there may be a relay.
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