Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 350 - Rusting Over Wheel Wells
Jul 10, 2014
I am sick that my 2008 F250 with 107K miles is exhibiting signs of rust this spring.. While filling up the tank saw a bit of a bubble on the left side top of the wheel well. Another one on the passenger side. I've had the truck since new and have tried to keep it as clean as I can being that it is a daily driver in the rust belt. Certainly thought that I'd get more than 6 years before the rot showed up. Don't remember my 1999 F350 exhibiting that, but it was a dually and had the fiberglass fenders that might have hidden it.
Took it to the local body shop and he told me to get used to it, just a matter of time around here. He said he could work on it, but it would never be fixed, rust would eventually return. He suggested sand blasting myself, repairing as I could, oiling the inside behind the tail lights and bolting on some Bushwacker flares. Having driven Ford trucks all my 40 years of driving I'm going to be looking at Dodges next time I buy.
Drivers side ...
Passenger side ...
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Having issues with rear wheel wells rusting, mine is a 2004 f-250. I wax at least 10 times a yr. Can't believe I have rust there...
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My rear fenders are pitting and bubbling with rust on both sides. I had my local body shop have at it and it looked good for about 6 months. Now bubbling up again. I see in older trucks like mine that this is a common problem. I'll probably have to replace rhr box if I really want to fix it? Or just learn to live with it.
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2014 f305 rusting out fast. Ford needs to address the problem and fix these issues on the super duty already on the road
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I have a tow haul problem with my 2008 F350 6.4L. It will not go into tow haul unless I tilt steering wheel up all the way and than slam it down and than it will engage. Than when I want to take it out, I have to shut off truck. Any wiring diagram and info on how to get at the wiring. Do I have to disarm Air Bag and pull Steering wheel?
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2008 F-350 ... Getting a click in the steering wheel. Slow speeds in parking lots. Even with the truck off you can manually move the wheel and notice it has play. Maybe 1/16" - 1/8" of play
Read a few old posts saying there was an TSB on it TSB 05-15-1 ... Couple of the posts say they replaced the steering column. Wanted some input before I pull this apart. It's more annoying than anything ..
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I have a 2008 F250 5.4 4x4 supercab long box (68,000 miles) that has a little bit of movement in the front wheel bearing and hub assemblies. Made it through inspection OK but it will need to be changed soon. Just asking for everyone's thoughts on brands they prefer. I have had great luck with Moog brand products in the past. I put SKF hubs on my wife's 2010 Explorer and they I would say are top quality also. Not interested in a conversion kit or cheap junk. I want a good quality unit. What brand has everyone had good results with? Are Moog or SKF the way to go?
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I have a 2008 F-450 Lariat 6.4 4x4. I recently started noticing the front driver side wheel (best I can tell) wheel makes a noise as though it's binding uo when turning either direction, and I can feel it as well. 4wd is not activated and the hubs are in auto. When the front end is off the ground, I rotated the wheels and they spun independently unless the hubs were locked. I noticed what appear to be seals on both the driver and passenger side hanging loose (see pics). What this might be? I recently used the 4wd when we visited White Sands National Monument while pulling a 5th wheel RV.
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I have a 2008 F250 XLT. When i am driving and turn the wheel a squeak is noticeable while the tire is spinning. as i speed up the squeak gets faster and slower when i slow down. I have it narrowed down to the right front tire but cant figure out what is causing it.
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I have a 2008 f-250 6.4 Diesel. Yesterday the Brake Fluid light came on. I thought maybe a sensor, but once I parked and checked I realized my brake fluid was down to the Min line. I started looking for a leak and it was apparent that it was the front drivers wheel area.
I am attaching a picture of the brake. The leak is either coming from the area where the fluid line runs into the gold thing (caliper?) or the bolt at the bottom of the gold thing.
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Heard a thumping yesterday as I'm getting on the highway at rush hour. I looked in the drivers mirror and I see my rear wheel flopping around. I had sheared off 6 of the 8 studs. After towing it home I pulled the wheel and tapped out the broken studs. I've never done this before so I'm a bit unsure as to how I get the new studs in. The drum brake assembly is behind the rotor and even if I pulled all that out it still doesn't look like I have enough room. Did I just discover this job is bigger than I thought?
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have an 04 f150 that is starting to show some rust in the rear wheel wells. Right now there is just a bit of rust where the painted panel is seamed to the inner panel around the arch, but I can see small spots where the paint is starting to bubble about an inch out on the outside of the panel. I want to keep this thing looking nice for a few more years; what should I do?
I'm a very good welder, can hold my own when turning wrenches, have done lots of metal fabrication as well as painting with a cup gun, but I have very little autobody experience.
I am thinking there is rust between the inner and outer panels and that removing the surface rust and repainting would be a very temporary repair, correct? Could I cover it up with some sort of wheel well liner? If so, how to I slow the existing rust? Is there any sort of partial preformed steel panel/well that allow you to cut off the rusty stuff and weld new stuff on? I'm a little leary of the last thought- I could do the fabbing, but not sure how I'd do getting it back to 'smooth'
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So just as I think I have it figured out what size tire and wheel combo I want to go with, I began thinking about going from an 18" wheel to a 17". I can save some cash, have a few more tire size options and save on tire weight.
I know alot of guys go up to a 20" setup but that's just not my preference on trucks.
Any negative to doing this? 315/75/17 tire size interests me. Had that on a Wrangler and liked the look. Going to look a little more at 17" sizes before deciding.
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Checked the EOF vacuum lines and pump but still have a problem. The EOF works and locks the hubs when I switch to 4x4 high, Easy to feel when you turn the wheels but it will not go into low. The light on the dash does not light up the word "low".
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When I shift into 4Lo I get no 4 wheel drive. 4Hi works. Did have a/c redirect to defrost a couple of times. I remember something about the air redirecting having something to do with not having 4x4 but don't know just what it was.
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I just put a new front driver side wheel hub assembly on last week and i discovered two things. The metal plate that goes in behind the wheel hub assembly needs replaced but idk what it is and i need a new axle seals. But when i put the new hub assembly on, the abs light came on and i cant seem to figure out why? Also my front drivers side of the truck is still making a clunk noise when i hit a bump. Input on that too?
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I seem to be having a issue on take off with my new Super Duty, it has the michelin atx2 tires than come on these trucks. On any hill or grade on take off she just spins and traction control flashes on dash, what the heck? Do I need to pull out the 4x4 switch to engage the e-locker so this thing will move? Seems crazy to have to put her into 4wheel when there is only a inch of snow on the ground... My 6.0 did this sort of due to all the torque it had, but that had those crap Contitracs on it till I swapped them for BFG at..
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Recently bought a 2015 f250 xlt.....very impressed with it. Only thing is the wheel feel and look to small. What is the largest size i can run stock? Will 35/12.5 fit on stock 17 wheels or should i just spring for aftermarket rims at the same time? Also exhaust options for the 6.2? Remember, i need load range e!
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I recently bought some used rockstar 1s off a buddy, installed new tires, balanced, put tapered lug nuts on and I'm still getting a slight vibration above 40mph. Do I need hub centric rings? XD says no, I think I do.
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Got a problem with my F350 diesel truck's braking system. I pull a 5th wheel and last trip almost burned my breaks up coming down long hill due to having no breaks on the 5th wheel. Had a problem early on with the lack of trailer brakes and module was replaced under warranty. Bought a new module this time and it did not fix the problem. Have braking power when I use the module brakes (Hand) but not when I hit the foot brakes. Have checked the system with a meter and have good voltage with hand break but not with foot brakes. Have a good meter (voltage) read with hand breaks and faint read with foot brakes applied. Also have a faint pulsing read on test light with no brakes at all just key on.
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the mechanism that locks the steering wheel is stuck. not the ignition key cylinder (already removed that). how do I release that mechanism to free the steering wheel.
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