Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2007 - Replaced 3rd Brake Light With LED Now Not Working?
Mar 25, 2013
On my 07 F250 Outlaw recently I replaced my stock 3rd brake light with a Bully LED brake light.. Noticed last night that it is NOT working.. the red LED's arent working but the white cab lights are.
I plugged the stock one back in and still nothing. After looking in the owner manual at the fuse block I did NOT see a fuse for it... Got to experimenting and my peddle raise lower switch is not working either. I looked at that fuse and it looked good but just to be safe I replaced it with a new one and still nothing...
could these be tied together some how for power?
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I recently discovered that my brake lights were not working. The high mount is. With a little research I came to the conclusion the switch was bad. I checked every fuse that had brake in the title. All good. So I buy a NAPA switch and swap it out. Still no brake lights and now high mount is not working. To check, I reinstalled the old switch. Still nothing. What now and why would the center mount stop working?
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Today I started to install my satellite radio in the 250. I ran the antenna through the roof where the 3rd brake light is. The lights were not working so I thought I'd just replace them while it was off the truck. To my surprise the bulbs the guy had installed must have been too big because the wires, sockets and the housing were melted and not really usable. With that said. I can't seem to find a web site that would have an aftermarket setup that would fit the roof of a F250.
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2007 f250 4x4 shift on fly will not work. switch to 4x4 high light will not illuminate and it will not go into 4x4. i have tried in park, in neutral, rolling are stopped. both lights work when you turn ignition key to on.
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I replaced the icp in a 2007 ford 6.0 and now it will not crank. I can unplug the icp and it will start, I can also put the old icp in andit will start. The connection has no oil on it and it seems to fit tight too. Is there any thing else I need to try?
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Checking out my 2007 gasser this weekend an found that my third brake light does not work....no power to the socket. The cargo lights on either side of it in the same assembly work fine so I believe the ground to be intact. My question is does this light have it's own fuse? if not where should I start looking for the solution to my problem?
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I left town and accidentally left the tailgate on my 2011 F250 SuperDuty unlocked. It was stolen.
Found a replacement, replaced the broken handle, installed new key lock, transferred to camera and plugged it in. My rear-view mirror is not receiving the signal, just a blue screen. Is there something else I need to do to complete the process of connecting the camera.
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one of my f350 super duties has had the right rear brake caliper and slider replaced 4 times in less than a year. it has just gone for the fourth time today. i called ford who, after a long phone call, said it could be the metering valve. i have looked everywhere for this valve.....no luck. so i called them back and he said it was part of the HCU. after a few minutes, he finally told me it was also called the ABS module.
my question is..........can i just replace this metering valve or do i have to replace the whole unit?
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You know the "mechanic's fiances truck" problem. I recently replaced the cam sensor in my 05' F250 Gas. The check engine light had been on for a while before that and my truck rode great, however I now want to sell it and I can't do that with a check engine light on. It's got about 85k miles on it.
After replacing the sensor, the light went off for about 20 miles, but it is now back on and my truck seems to miss every once in a while on acceleration or cruising. Some days it's worse than others. The check engine light still says cam sensor, but the sensor is brand new.
My fiance is a mechanic, so I don't know all the details about code numbers and such. However, I want to sell this truck pretty soon, and I would like it to run correctly. His dad (another mechanic) seems to think it could be a coil and wants to wait for that light to come on, but I would rather fix the problem and sell the truck!
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I have a 2005 F250 that the brake lights are not working when brakes are applied. The rear blinkers and flashers are working. what could be my problem.
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I have a 1999 Super Duty 5.4l Manual transmission 4x4 105,000 miles the cruise control stopped working a month ago, I didn't think much of it because I frankly don't use cruise as this vehicle is usually used to tow and I don't run cruise towing.
Long story short I went to tow my camp trailer and noticed my brake controller was not actuating the trailer brakes when I braked, the controller is showing connected and when I manually actuate the controller its working, so I knew I had a brake light issue, I checked the brakes and sure enough I have no functioning brake lights.
I bought a Motorcraft OEM brake pedal switch and replaced it to no avail,I have also checked the applicable fuses they are fine. I have a master cylinder cruise control switch to change but have my doubts this is the issue since the brake lights and cruise are non functional.
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I recently got my truck back from the dealership 04 super d 4x diesel (wife put gas in).. Anyway my dash lights, running lights and brake lights are not working. I checked fuses already and I did not see any obvious problems. I also replace the switch but that didn't work. Perhaps a ground somewhere or a relay? Turn signals and headlights work.
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I have a 2008 F350 Super Duty Regular cab long bed 4X4 I have no cargo light and no third Brake light, checked and even replaced bulbs. Still have no lights up top, what to check or how to fix this? Can I tie the cargo light into the dome light inside without screwing something up? I can't understand why they stopped hooking the cargo light to the dome light but this one seems to be wired separate. Would love to get these lights working again. When I bough t the truck the cargo light didn't work and I thought maybe the bulbs were burnt out, I never checked the brake light I tried to get the cargo light working and that's when I found out the brake light didn't work either.
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2004 f250, brake lights except 3rd brake light do not work. flashers also do not work. turn signals work on both sides. when you turn on the flashers only the right indicator on the dash lights. checked all fuses for brake lights and am at a loss. On a float trip this weekend with my toy hauler and need brake lights to get home.
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Will leaving the parking brake on burn up the axle seals? My parking brake isn't working well at the moment. I need new ones from all the fluid my bad seals leaked on them. So, at the moment they just scrub a bit while its engaged. However, today I found out that my parking brake light for one reason or another is not working and I got in a hurry and didn't release the brake. by the time I got to where I was headed (about 15 miles), I could smell gear fluid burning and my driver side rear was smoking. I'm hoping its the fluid that was already soaked into the shoes. I did find a drop of fluid on the bottom of my brake caliper.
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I want to change out the whole system for stainless on a 2007 superduty. I got stainless lines and braded hoses for it. I'm ordering stainless fittings. (I got a flare tool) The braded hose kit i got has two hoses for the front and one drop hose for the rear. When I looked underneath the rear, I see the rear discs have a short hose that hooks to the caliper. or stainless braded hose?
Also, stupid question. Does the front resivoir go to the front brakes? The reason I ask is the front fitting is smaller. Seems like the big fitting would go to the front.
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2004 ford f 350 super duty, 6.0 Liters international diesel, 4door, 4x4, long bed, dual rear wheels. Over 200,000 mileage. I have no power to the trucks brake lights and no power to the tow plugs trailer brake lights, which is the center left and the center right tow plug blade style contacts, while using a 12 volt test light! All fuses are showing good and I replaced the brake switch at the brake pedal, and I also replaced the towing plug with the short wire and connector at rear of truck which is under the rear bumper and the frame mounted tow hitch bar
- Are there any relays that control the truck brake lights and the trailer brake lights ?
- If yes where are the brake relays exactly?
- Have I missed or not done something else to correct the problem?
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I have the ford upfitter switches in my 07 f350 and i had two flashing lights wired to switch 4 (10 amps) for snow plowing. The lights were LED and shouldn't have drawn much power but suddenly the lights stopped working because thers no power going to the fourth switch. They work on all the other switches. What could be the problem?
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I have a 2007 F350 XLT, Super Cab, chassis cab, V-10, 4x4. I ordered it new, it now has 97,000 miles. It is equipped with a 9' aluminum flatbed. I tow it behind my motorhome and also carry a truck camper (not when towing it!).
I don't think the front brakes are working 100%. I have 2 sets of wheels and tires (19.5s for hauling the camper). Every time I change over, I check the brake pads for wear. Over the first 80,000 miles there was very little wear on the rear pads. In 2014 I had almost a complete brake failure while traveling. I took it to a Ford dealer, and they determined the brake booster was bad. They replaced the booster and flushed the brake system. I didn't think the brakes felt right afterward, but I carried on. By 95,000 miles, the rear brakes were worn out. I feel like the rear brakes are doing most of the stopping now, thus wearing out much faster than they were.
I just ordered a set of service manuals for the truck (9.5 years late on that!) hoping to figure out something. I like the truck, it meets my needs, and I hope to keep it quite a while longer. I took it in to the local dealer to replace a leaking rear pinion seal. They found and replaced the worn pads. I trust them to the extent that the pads were worn, as I had already noticed an acceleration in wear. Local dealer that replaced the pads has no idea what could be up. They did clean and lube the front calipers at the same time, but I noticed no difference in brake feel. Stopping power is definitely worse than before the brake failure/ booster replacement.
What might cause this? The only things that come to my mind is a problem with the proportioning valve or maybe the master cylinder. I don't know much about the details of the ABS system. Is there anyway that might be causing the issue? I would rather not just start throwing parts at the problem...
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2000 F 350 super cab 4wd 7,3 auto srw long bed. Problems with emergency/parking. My cable probably needs replacing. My pedal will go to floor when setting the e brake. I use very infrequently, but when loading hay on the big bale trailer. I could ignore it but when hit the slightest bump the brake pedal goes down just enough to activate the brake light on the dash and activates the bell/chime until I raise the brake pedal up.
When searching this site one post stated that should not happen. I am trying to figure out if I need to replace the front cable, intermediate cable, and rear cables. And do I need to replace the foot pedal assembly as well. What are the part numbers for these. I generally order from who ever took over Edpartguys for original ford parts. I have new cryo rotors and Hawke brake pads.
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The wife and I ventured out last Friday evening to run a few errands. When we returned to the house and pulled into the garage, we both smelled burning brake pad. I felt the rear wheels, the drivers side was too hot to touch.
Dragging brake caliper. I got online and reserved a drivers side caliper and a set of pads at NAPA. Saturday morning I removed the caliper. Much to my surprise, one of the caliper pistons was broken into multiple pieces.
I took the offending caliper to NAPA and picked up the new caliper and a set of pads.
Side note - NAPA seems to think the 2007 trucks have calipers that mount in front of the axle, not behind the axle. They will try to sell you a passenger side caliper and tell you it is a driver side caliper. It will bolt up fine, but the bleeder valve will be at the bottom of the caliper instead of the top. You'll never get the air out of the caliper.
Got back home, bolted up the new caliper and pads, then bled the system. All worked well.
I decided to throw new pads on the passenger side brakes as well, since I had 2 remaining. I took off the passenger side caliper, much to my surprise I found a cracked and broken piston on that side also! Another run to NAPA to pick up another caliper. Installed, bled the system again, all working well.
Now, I have never seen a cracked and broken caliper piston like this, let alone one on each side of the rear axle. What might have caused this? About a year ago I had a shop install new backing plates. The pads and calipers are about 3 years old, same shop installed those.
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