Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2007 F350 4x4 - Popping Coming Of The Front End Of Truck
Feb 3, 2015
I have an 07 350 6.0 was plowing last night toward the end of the night i herd a popping coming off the front end of the truck. My esof does not work so I manually lock the hubs and then turn on the 4x4 from the dash when I want 4x4, ok so after the few pops I heard while slightly turning I straightened out and all seem ok till I pulled outta the parking lot started driving and i had a noise kinda sounded like driving on a flat while at speeds at around 25-35mph so I got out unlocked the hubs drove it and it drives fine unlocked. so what I've done so far is while hubs unlocked climbed under it spun the front driveshaft by hand and spins freely. When the truck is rolling with no issues i locked the hubs left the switch in 2wd turned the wheel and started to make a turn and POP loud and shakes the truck violently it feel likes the steering and the truck is binding when trying to turn.
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I have a 2002 F350 with the triton 5.4. For the last week it has been running like crap. I just did my plugs about a month ago. I don't know if it's a miss fire or bad fuel or I don't know what it could be. It's a popping sound coming from my exhaust and when it happens I lose power. It happens off and on. One second it will run fine and normal and the next runs bad. What it could be. Today I just changed my fuel filter and added STP octane boost and fuel injector cleaner. Haven't seen a difference yet.
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I have a 2001 f350 4x4 with7.3 diesel...I have recently noticed a low grind like noise coming from the right front. I have troubled shot the issue and I am 100% sure it is the wheel hub assembly. Did I mention I am running 37x13.50 tires..and now you say no it is the hubs...and they are the original hubs. My question is every thing I look for shows ABS is on my truck... I look at the hub and don't see it.. so with the Dana 60 front does it have ABS or not? Also, should I go motorcraft, Timken or moog wheel hubs?
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I have a 2007 F350 XLT, Super Cab, chassis cab, V-10, 4x4. I ordered it new, it now has 97,000 miles. It is equipped with a 9' aluminum flatbed. I tow it behind my motorhome and also carry a truck camper (not when towing it!).
I don't think the front brakes are working 100%. I have 2 sets of wheels and tires (19.5s for hauling the camper). Every time I change over, I check the brake pads for wear. Over the first 80,000 miles there was very little wear on the rear pads. In 2014 I had almost a complete brake failure while traveling. I took it to a Ford dealer, and they determined the brake booster was bad. They replaced the booster and flushed the brake system. I didn't think the brakes felt right afterward, but I carried on. By 95,000 miles, the rear brakes were worn out. I feel like the rear brakes are doing most of the stopping now, thus wearing out much faster than they were.
I just ordered a set of service manuals for the truck (9.5 years late on that!) hoping to figure out something. I like the truck, it meets my needs, and I hope to keep it quite a while longer. I took it in to the local dealer to replace a leaking rear pinion seal. They found and replaced the worn pads. I trust them to the extent that the pads were worn, as I had already noticed an acceleration in wear. Local dealer that replaced the pads has no idea what could be up. They did clean and lube the front calipers at the same time, but I noticed no difference in brake feel. Stopping power is definitely worse than before the brake failure/ booster replacement.
What might cause this? The only things that come to my mind is a problem with the proportioning valve or maybe the master cylinder. I don't know much about the details of the ABS system. Is there anyway that might be causing the issue? I would rather not just start throwing parts at the problem...
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My question is my abs light came on so I stuck my computer on it. Said right rear , we'll we all know on a 2007 6.0 f350 4X4, the there's only one sensor on the pumpkin, so I replaced it and cleared the code. Abs light came back on once I started driving, week ago my right front caliper stuck and got very hot, could that read bad for the rear of the front went bad? Will pull plug and make sure I didn't bend any pins.
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2011 F-350 XL, I can hear a squeal coming from the front brakes when rolling forward slowly, believe the pads are dragging on the rotors. If I touch the brake pedal the squeal stops as it does when I turn the wheel. Took the calipers off and greased the slide pins and put it all back together, still got the squeal. What don't I know???
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All the sudden got home and now my truck wont go in park. All other gears are fine. My PRNDL on dash has always been off for the last 3 years park has always shown as reverse its never affected anything! I already checked the torq. bolts and that was not it. My shifter is very sloppy so is my steering wheel. I found a 00 whole steering column with wheel and shifter but its not a early 99 will it work or fix my no park. The guy didnt know if it would fit early 99 or my no park problem.
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I have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
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My truck seems to shudder between 40 and 60 mph when it's in OD. If I turn off OD it seems to go away with the increased rpm's. Although I can't be sure if it genuinely disappears or if I just don't notice since I'm at 2100 rpms instead of 1500. Trans fluid is clean. Is this a common problem in these trucks? Just filled up from flat E the same day air temps about 4 deg. Truck was fully warmed up. Does this sound ignition related, tranny or fuel related?
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I have a 2012 Ford F350 I've been looking to install a compressor on. I've poked a hole in the gasket that runs wires through the firewall and cut the tips off of a couple of the accessory wires. Went to go get some more parts and now the truck won't start! The lights and radio turn on when the car is turned on but the starter doesn't even click when I try to start it. What should I look at?
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i have a 01 Ford F-350 7.3L quite and won't start I have replaced the ipr valve and sensor and the crank sensor and the truck still won't start...
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03 f350 4x4. New front calipers and pads.
Wondering if there's a 'trick' to getting the front brake pads into the caliper . Those damn springs kept popping out. I'd get three of the four ends into place in the pad holes then one would pop out while I'm trying to get the fourth in.
After about a hour of trying every different way that I could think of, another set of hands came by and with four hands holding things in place, it finally did the trick.
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So I went to start the truck this morning around 8:00 and it was 7 degrees outside, when the truck started the oil light came on and oil gauge was on low? So I turned it off right away. few hours later I tried it again and still nothing I thought maybe the oil was frozen. After I started the truck the oil was higher on the dipstick so I am assuming the oil pump is functional. What could be causing this? Could it be the the gauge is not working? The truck is a 2000 F-350 V-8 5.4 gas. I'm hoping it is something simple I am suppose to work this afternoon
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I have a 1999 Ford F350 5.4L 4x4. I had a check engine code on my truck a couple of months ago. The truck was running fine then. The light went away and I forgot about the issue. In the last week the truck began to run like crap; hesitation during hwy speeds. The truck is running with hesitation in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. In low gears the truck seems to run just fine. I have changed the EGR valve as well as the fuel filter. Check engine light is not on but the problem has not gotten any better.
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We just bought a 2000 F350 knowing it has some issues. The #5 fuse (generator/secondary) under the hood consistently blows fuses the second it's inserted, meaning there's a dead short. Truck will crank but not start. As well, theres a 5 amp fuse under the dash, which when inserted, keeps the instrument cluster on as if the key was on, even with no key in the barrel. We cannot hear the fuel pump running, the fuel reset switch is fine, all ignition wires at the column are showing 12 volts at the right times. What could be wrong? I'm a 12 volt specialist, but not a ford tech.
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I recently bought a 2003 f350 7.3, I ordered a tuner for it and tried installing it, at one point while the ECM was still connected I did something and it sparked. Then the powertrain relay (302) started clicking really fast. It clicked in the on position. I switched it with another and it was also clicking. So since I sparke the ECM I figured I messed it up. I ordered another one and it's doing the same thing. Then I pulled fuse 45 (which was good) and put it back in. When I turned truck to on position it wouldn't click anymore, but it still won't start... What it could be? OV ruled out the ECM, powertrain relay (302) and fuse 45, I don't know what else to check.
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I am looking at a 2016 F350 that I found on a local dealers lot. It has most of the options I wanted MINUS the Rearview Camera.
It is an XLT Reg cab so I do not have the display screen (When built with this option installed, the display would be in the rear view mirror, not the display screen.)
So I am wondering if it is even possible to add this option after the truck was already built and have the dealer install it? Or is it one of those options that would have to be done before build/assembly?
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Ok so some one locked my hubs and put the truck in 4x4 4low i assume my aunt was driving it, truck wouldn't shift from 2 to 3rd is this normal since its in 4low. The shifter also seems pretty stiff and 4wheel isn't used much if there a way to know if 3rd gear toon a crap? Trans fluid seems fine not dirty or burnt...
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I have a 2000 f350 v10 ext cab 8 ft bed 4wd,i replaced all 10 plugs all 10 coils at 40 mph the truck violently shakes an vibrates read on a few things that could be crack cylinder or bad pistons,i did a test on it an says low compression in 2 cylinders 1&2 what can I do an what is the best option for me as I just got the truck not even a month ago...
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I bought a 2005 F350 in January of 2012. At the time of purchase, I noticed that the truck seemed slow to turn over. I talked the dealer into installing 2 new 750 CCA Ford batteries at the time of sale.
I have put less than 7,000 miles on the truck since the day I bought it. In August of 2012, I went to start the truck and the batteries were completely dead. I charged them, started the truck, and the next day the truck was dead again.
I took the batteries out, and took them to the dealer. They replaced both of them under warranty. They said that after they charged them, each tested at less than 85 CCA.
In July of 2013, the same thing happened. I used the truck one day, and then the next day the batteries were completely dead. I had them tested at the dealer, and the passenger side battery failed the test. The driver's side passed. They replaced the passenger side under warranty, again. This time, they also cleaned all battery / ground connections and tested the charging system. Everything passed.
Last week, I went to start the truck. Same thing again. Took the truck to the dealer, and both batteries, after charging, failed the test. They replaced both batteries under warranty.This time, on each battery, the dealer had written with yellow paint pen on the batteries AND on the radiator shroud "BATTERY NOT UNDER WARRANTY."
I asked the dealer about this, and they said that since they have replaced 5 batteries in the truck, and since it has 152,000 miles on it, the warranty is no longer valid. I argued that since they have checked the truck thoroughly, and found no issues with the charging system, they can't void the warranty like that.
So, what is the reason why the batteries would fail like that, and that frequently?
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Well, I tried this Death Wobble Kit on my Ford F350 Super Duty from a company called WC Motorsports. Had it installed at a Ford Dealership. DO NOT BUY this kit. Missing parts right out of the box. Also makes a horrible clanking noise after install. Piece of junk. Possible fix to one problem only to have multiple other problems:
1. Clanking Noise
2. Truck pulls to the left
3. Have to cut the factory subframe. (Never a good idea)
4. Changes the degree (not recommended by Ford)
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