Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2007 F250 5.4L - Stalling When Going Into Reverse
Mar 6, 2012
I bought my son a 07 F250. 5.4L and he tells me it is dying on him, it started out with it trying to die when going into reverse, now he can't keep it running much at all. He took it to the Firestone shop and they are telling him one of the camshafts is probably bad... I highly doubt it. And a new 3k motor is what he needs...
The truck has 145k on it and has been well maintained and just had the oil and fluids changed. Air filter is good, battery is new as well. Only thing I can think of is to clean the throttle body and air meter, he lives 200 miles away so it is hard to troubleshoot over the phone. Any pointers to look at? possible vacuum leak somewhere?
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I have a 2001 F250 V10. It idles around 1k and when stopped at stop lights or when put in reverse it stalls. I have replaced IAC, fuel filter, tranny filter, oil filter, plugs, coil boots, tranny fluid, oil, air filter, and PVC along with the PVC hose. I'm totally stumped. It doesn't stall if I do a rolling stop.
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I just purchased a 2012 F250 XLT with the 6.2. It has 38,000 miles on it. Yesterday I noticed, when coming to a stop, the idle will sometimes drop below 500. The engine will stumble a little, then the RPM will jump up to 1,000. Twice it has stalled on me. When it stalls, the engine will restart just fine. No codes in the computer or warning lights on the dash.
I will be bringing it back to carmax, as it is under their 30 day warranty still. Hopefully they will be able to figure out something. I am thinking either the TB needs to be cleaned, or there is an issue with the canister purge valve. I saw the TSB for the CPV but it doesn't cover my truck.
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I have an 04 F250 4x4 king ranch with a 6.8 V10.
When I first bought this truck it had a problem of stalling out at stops. You could sometimes hold the brake and gas and push your way through it but it would sputter for a second and try to die and then it was fine once you got going. The OD light would flash, check engine light would come on and it would throw a P0720 code for the OSS. I did some researching and I pulled the sensor in the pumpkin before that because I read that could cause the same problem, so I cleaned it and put it back but it didn't solve the issue. Then found that an K&N air filter can often times clog the MAF and cause the issue so I pulled my air filter and sure enough it was a K&N, I swapped it with a normal filter and sprayed some MAF cleaner and its been running like a top for months... until now.
It started again, gradually at first. It would die when I started to back the truck at a very low speed to load my 4 wheeler. I fired it up and it was good again for a couple more weeks, then I went to hook to a horse trailer and I was having to back up a hill to get to it, and it just kept dying, OD light would flash, check engine light came on. I was in a bind so I just tried wiping off the MAF with a rag, that didn't work, my girlfriend was using the truck and said it kept dying whenever she stopped. I got it home and cleaned the MAF with cleaner really well but the problem persisted. I went ahead and changed my oil, spark plugs(gaped at .052-.054), replaced the IAC(which looked like it had been installed once before so I am guessing someone tried it and when it didn't fix the problem they returned it) and changed the fuel filter. I drove it around and it ran fine, drove it to work and it ran fine, my girlfriend took it for about 15 minutes to run an errand for me and it was fine until she got back in the parking lot and liked to never got it parked again it stalled so much.
So I went back to the drawing board and read that it is rarely the OSS that is the problem but that often times the issue is a bad coil pack. I don't have a scanner nor do I know how the heck to use one. I plan on going out of town at the end of the week and the truck has 194k miles on it so rather then take it to a shop and try to find out which COP was bad I just decided to replace all of them(I know, I know, you should never just start replacing parts). I only had time to replace 5 of them, I took the truck out and again it dove fine for an hour, went through traffic OK. It sat for an hour and when I left it started to die again, I could drop it in neutral and it would fire back up and as long as I gave it just a hair of throttle it stayed running fine, take my foot off the fuel and in a minute it would die again. After I drove for a bit it was fine again. Now I know the problem may yet be in the remaining 5 COP that I must change tonight but in case it is not I wanted to get input on this.
I've read the problem can come from a bad ground, so I took every ground point that I could find under the hood and I cleaned the connectors and took the paint off at the connection site just for good measure. The problem persists. I've read that sometimes a diode can go out on the alternator and cause this problem, I did use my amp meter and I'm checking out at 13 volts while running. I'm not the best with meters so I'm not sure how else to check the diode?
I've also read that taking it to a dealership is hit or miss for them diagnosing the problem, sometimes they find the issue, sometimes they just change the OSS. The only mechanic I trust closed his shop and is now service manager of the Dodge dealership. I'm thinking since this seems to be a common problem that maybe ford might have more knowledge of it then dodge but I trust the dodge dealership more because of who is over it. Either way I know it will sit in a dealership for awhile before it ever gets looked at and if they have to chase any electrical problems then that starts racking up $$ fast.
So what am I missing? I've thought about replacing the MAF since cleaning it the first time solved the problem. When it did this the first time I still had my 01 F250(it never gave me problems like this) and so I took the MAF off of it and swapped them and sure enough it fixed my problem so I switched them back after I cleaned the MAF and like I said it's been running fine until recently. I'd rather not throw money at this by replacing parts and hoping for the best. I've also read about tracing the harness that runs from the sensor on the pumpkin to the OSS and on. That harness runs through all kinds of stuff so I'm dreading that but it will also be a next step. I haven't pulled the OSS because its in a very awkward position on my truck.
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Bought this truck a few months back. Nothing but problems. I always thought it has felt a little underpowered and hesitant. I chalked it up to being a 5.4l in a f250. Well now im thinking it has been a symptom all along.
Lately, the truck has been stalling at stops. Randomly, but not often. The truck idles at 750rpm when I start it, but after driving and then coming to a stop while in overdrive it idles at 400rpm. This seems too low to me.
It hesitates occasionally when giving it throttle. Just today it got really bad and was almost unresponsive. I would hit the throttle and it would just idle while randomly kind of shooting up in RPS and shuddering. It finally produced some error codes, it looks like, but I am afraid to drive it all the way to the autozone.
I am thinking TPS. Is the TPS attached to the pedal or is the TPS attached to throttle body under the hood? I've read some conflicting stuff about this. The good news is that if it is the TPS then it should act like a whole new truck after I replace it.
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I changed the IAC valve 2 months ago because my truck kept stalling when idling down on a cold start and that fixed the problem. A few days days ago when starting it started revving to 2 - 3 K and won't IDLE down now? I changed the IAC again and that didn't work. What else should I be looking at to stop it from revving so high?
2001 F250 5.4 111,000 miles super duty.
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The 2003 F250 5.4 Superduty has no power and keeps stalling. If I floor the gas it just stalls. I've replaced the pcv valve and line, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump, and cleaned the tank, changed out the gas, added Lucas, and it just won't run right. Desperate, and no codes are coming up...
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Any info if the "Aux" terminal on the trailer harness wiring on '01 F250s is for reverse lighting? I'd like to put some on my stock trailer. Also, is the "12v" terminal feed switch operated or hot always?
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I love my new truck. '15 250 CC SB. It would be nice if when I am backing up not to have the dash lights in my eyes once I turn off the head/parking lights at night. I turn off the head lights so as to make everything darker. Much easier to see what is in my mirrors.
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I have a 2001 F250 V10,
So the truck drove fine yesterday had zero issues... I used my auto start as I do every morning in this cold weather, get into the truck and shift from park to drive and its like it does nothing. I can free rev in N,D,1,2. Reverse works great.
I tried switching from 4wd to 2wd, no change. Reverse works just fine. No noises, codes or anything, just doesn't want to engage...
I am assuming I have a 4R100. Could something electrical cause this? I am thinking its mechanical, but hoping someone has ran into this before.
Literally no way I would have known the trans was going bad... It's always worked fine. Tranny fluid is full, I tried unplugging the battery waiting and plugging back in, no dice.
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I have a 02 F250 Super Duty XLT with a triton V8 with a automatic transmission . and when I shift into reverse after driving for a while the starter engages . It does not happen all the time . If i start up the truck and shift through or into reverse it doesn't happen . the only time it happens is when i've been driving for awhile and want to back up or park it will only do it once or twice after each drive so trying to get it to happen while in the shop is almost impossible . could this be caused by the transmission range sensor . I just had the code P0705 (transmission range sensor , A circuit input ) come on but the problem has been happening for a few weeks before that code came up .
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I was driving my 1999 F250 5.4 Triton last week, after noticing a thump while backing my small boat down the ramp (sounded like u joint) I went and parked. When I got back in the truck it starts fine but when I shift into reverse, it's staying in drive, anywhere I put my shift lever..... It's in drive! I even noticed that even all the way up into park it feels like it's in drive, but with something holding it back. If I give it gas while in park it will go forward! I have tightened the two torx screws under dash, pulled cable off and tried shifting by hand (clicks like switching gears, but still in drive) pulled pan, everything looked good there, fluid is nice and red, smells good, no metal in pan? It's the 4r100od tranny.
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Well I just bought a 2011F250 6.7 on Friday. The truck has 42000 miles when I picked it up and now has almost 42800 4 days later. I love the truck so far. But anyways its an early build so is there anything I need to look out for? I noticed today I pulled into a parking spot and went to back up and as soon as I put it in reverse the truck shook pretty bad. It did it a few times as I sat there and went from drive to reverse. Is this something that is normal?
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My issue, just purchased f250, 2004, v 10, manual transmission, state vehicle with 32,000 miles but was a plow vehicle for localRMV lot, that said, great shape and runs strong but I get a clunk and shutter when I am in reverse and only when I push down clutch before stopping. Doesn't do it starting forward or reverse, only reverse and when I push clutch in before stopping. Did have a friend drive and looks like the transfer case is moving, as if mounts or bolts are loose. Does this make sense and could bad slip joints be putting excess torque on ?!?!?
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I recently bought a 2008 F250 with the 6.4 diesel indirectly from a dealership. The truck itself has 220,000ish kilometers, but the engine (as well as the turbos) are Ford reman that had about 12,000km when I bought it and I have only put about 6500km on it. It is already leaking oil but that is for another thread.
The reverse sensors, steering wheel controls and part of the stock 6cd radio have never worked. The towing system has errors as well. The fuel level sensor often has problems reading the new level after I put in fuel, but that is always fixed by disconnecting the batteries and forcing a hard reset.
I figured the steering wheel/cruise control problem was due to either a broken clock spring and/or the brake pressure switch. I replaced both those as well as the airbag because the horn relay failed closed when I put it back in the wheel. It did not fix the problem. The steering wheel buttons still intermittently illuminate, but the radio controls and cruise control buttons do not function regardless. The truck isn't giving any codes either.
The towing system will activate lights and brakes on a trailer as well as set the gain, but it will not detect that it is actually hooked to a trailer. I cleaned the pins, but I haven't looked any further into it. No codes for this as well.
The reverse sensors/system does not work. It will lock itself in "off". I am guessing this is because one or more of the sensors have failed, but I am skeptical that it would be just that given the trucks other problems.
The radio does work, but the auxiliary input/mode will not work. I ran the diagnostics on the radio and on 'Test 1' I got "SELF FAIL B1342 ECU" and "B2477 CONFIG". I tried to clear the codes, but I can't. I think this means the radio is kill.
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I'm new to the 6.0 fords but have bought 1 its already been bullet proofed. I've put all 8 injectors in because cylinder 3 was bad. this is my issue now you can start the truck fires right up run for 30sec to 1 min and shuts of like you turn the key off starts right back with no issues and runs fine the rest of the time until you shut it off again and there are no codes. What it could be ? I have already replaced the ipr, icp, cam and crank sensors, egr o rings and the blue spring upgrade and still does it...
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I have a 07 f250 and wanted to change them to the 08-14 tail lights. Did Ford change the size or a simple switch...
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Brings back memories of my many projects from back in the day. Anyway, my uncle has this f250. He said 4x4 wouldn't automatically lock the hubs in. I tested the vacuum pulse valve on the fender and changed it out. Now the hubs will lock in when you turn the light on the dash but it will not unlock the hubs unless you go outside and manually turn the hubs to engage then back to auto. Only then will the front end be unlocked. I notice small puffs of air blowing back from behind the hub themselves so I was thinking it's time to reseal the vacuum portion of the hubs.
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I just went from 3.73 to 4.30 gears on my 2007 f250 6.0. It has the standard Sterling 10.5 rear and Dana 60 front. My mechanic friend who did the swap said the ABS light came on during his test drive but the truck drove fine. I was of the understanding that the truck would not need to be recalibrated for proper speedometer and transmission function, but what about the ABS?
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Have a 2007 F250 6.0 diesel with the standard issues including misfire at highway speed. Assume the bulletproof kit also cures the stiction problem? in reviewing the threads and looking at the vendors, references are made to fixing the oil cooler issue, egr issue, etc., but no one addresses stiction issue directly.
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2007 F-250 One light in the tach is out, my question is how do I get to it to replace it? Are these instruments lit with conventional bulbs or solid state circuitry?
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