I'm trying to figure out why my auto locking hubs do not engage. To isolate the problem shouldn't the hub engage if a vacuum is applied to that hub only? A solid 18 inHg is maintained at that hub for over 10 minutes but the selector will not rotate, which suggests to me the seals are OK. What then might be the problem?
View 13 RepliesYesterday I was parked on an incline with my front wheels on gravel and the rear wheels on wet grass/mud. When I tried to go, the rear wheels started spinning. I then switched on the low 4x4, and tried to go. The rear wheels continued to spin, but the front did not turn. I had new wheels installed, that has a cap that covers the manual locking hub, so I couldn't turn it to lock the hub. What should I look for to fix the problem?
2007 F250 4X4 Larriat SRW
2004 Ford F250 CC 4x4 6.0L
Took the family down to the beach today. Had some tough sand to get across in a few areas to move away from the crowds. Got a little dicey and the truck got stuck in 2WD. Switched to 4WD but back tires kept spinning. Couldn't figure out why and the truck started to dig deeper in the sand. Got a little nervous and I didn't want to start the day off with having to get pulled out.
Got out of the truck, locked the hubs in manually and I was out, no problem. Left the hubs locked until we left the beach and back on pavement.
What might be the problem and why the "shift on the fly" switch on the dash didn't seem to engage the 4WD? I even tried to switch into 4L and back to 4H (truck in neutral, break pedal compressed) and still no workie. Only manually locking the hubs would engage the 4WD.
My hubs will not lock when put into 4x4. I disconnected all lines from the solenoid to both hubs and tested them for leaks... All good there. I put a gauge on the lines at both hubs one at a time while the other is still connected and get no reading when switched into 4x4. I checked for vacuum right out of the solenoid, and I get 2inHg when switched into 4x.
The vacuum pump kicks on every time I start the truck, even if I just shut it off and re-start right away. There is no delay when switching my ac/heater controls to different settings or vent locations. So I know there is vacuum. How much vacuum I should be getting out of the solenoid to the hubs?
2004 F350 6.0L....
I have a 2000 f250 CCSB 4x4 with the ESOF auto hubs. The auto hubs won't engage automatically. They work fine manually. The transfer case is engaging and correct lights are coming on. There is a little bit of vacuum coming from the vacuum switch but it doesn't seem like much to me. All the dash HVAC controls work fine though. I Lubed and cleaned inside the hubs according to Guzzles directions.
While torn down, I blew through the vacuum port on the outside of the hub and there was little to no restriction. I don't think there is enough vacuum to pull the hubs, but is that possible if all the dash controls work fine? What pressure should it take to engage them? My next step is to pick up a vacuum pump and see if I can engage them with it.
I just replaced the ball joints on my 02 excursion and I can't get the locking hubs to seat far enough in so that the retaining ring keeps them in place. The ring seats but then works out as I'm driving. There is something keeping the hub from sliding in far enough so that the ring/clip can set deep enough in its groove. What's causing that? Its happening on both sides.
View 10 RepliesIn my attempt to remove the auto locking hub on my 2000 F-350 4x4, I found that it would not slide out. I removed the retaing clip and the hub should of be able to come out with a couple wiggles, it seems to have seized inside the hub. I tapped it with a rubber mallet on all sides. Any thoughts as to other alternative methods of removing the hub locker ?
View 14 RepliesI took apart, cleaned and lubed my hubs. My question is: how does the vacuum make the gears work?
Does the vacuum force (suck) the nylon assembly to push the outer gear towards the center of the truck, sliding on the inner gear thus engaging the teeth so that the axle shaft turns the hub?
When the vacuum is gone, does spring pressure pushes the outer gear away from the center of the truck thus disengaging the teeth from the inner gear and allowing the hub to free wheel?
Is this vacuum source constant during 4wd and not present during 2wd or do I not understand how the system works? I have read about a “vacuum pulse” that locks the hubs and another pulse that unlocks the hubs and this confuses me.
BTW, I like the way the Auto lock works. I had a set of Warn Auto Lock hubs on my 78 CJ. They worked on the principle of a set of roller bearings that would lock (pinch) when there was torque coming from the drive shaft. There was no vacuum involved at all. The down side was that when you coasted, the front hubs would be in two wheel drive and so you would not get the engine braking on all 4 wheels. These ESOF seem to have solved this problem.
Oh, I should probably tell you that I just purchased my 04 F250 SuperDuty 4x4 with the 6.0 diesel, just had it a week. It has been 18 years since I owned a 4x4. Before this I owned an 87 F250 2wd with the 6.9 diesel.
My F350 4x4 won't go into 4 wheel drive unless I get out and take them out of auto and put them in locked position and when I have it in lock mode it seams to work like it's in auto mode, when I put the switch on the dash in 2wd, it seams like it's only driving the back wheels....
View 14 RepliesMy 2010 F350 shudders when turning right. From what I read it could be the auto locking hubs not dis-engaging or sticking in the locked position. Tutorials show it's pretty easy to pull the auto locking Hub out taking out the three screws holding it in place. My questions is what type of grease do I need to apply to the auto locking hub once I have them out and determine that is what the issue is?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2013 F250 which has both the Manual and auto locking hub feature. I tried to plow my driveway this morning and after making one pass I put the truck in reverse and could not back up my steep driveway. The truck is showing locked in 4x4 on the dash, the 4x4 control is in high lock but the front wheels will not turn. It has been very cold here lately (-30) and I'm wondering if the vacuum lines for the auto locking hubs have frozen. I have switched the control out of 4x4 and back in several times, and it does lock in again, but as soon as I put the truck into reverse, they unlock again. The hubs are covered with ice and snow right now so I have not yet tried to manually lock them.
View 14 Replies2012 6.2 XLT 50,000 miles with manual single zone controls. I haven't had time to work on it yet, but it seems that my AC compressor is not engaging. The dash controls light up normal, fan comes on, etc. I am just looking to see if there are any common failure points. I know it COULD be low on charge, clutch could be bad, etc. I am just checking if there is a common failure with these trucks AC system.
View 10 RepliesPump works fine. Replaced pvh. Won't go into 4wd hi or lo no matter what I try. Even with them in lock. How do I know if hubs need replaced or just hub locks?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Superduty. I recently had installed a BDS 8 inch suspension lift. I also had the upper and lower ball joints replaced. All this work was done by a certified garage. Today i went to pull out my boat from the ramp, turn the switch inside the cab to 4x4 high. The light came on but 4x4 did not engage. As i pulled the boat out of the water the rear tire spun in the sand but the front did not. As i cleared the ramp and on level ground i turn the switch off and back on i heard not but the light can on. With the 4x4 light on i turn the wheel and pulled forward i noticed no hopping as when a truck is in 4x4. Initially when i turn the 4x4 switch on i hear a clunk up front but not after. Drove home drive train appeared fine no noise.
View 3 RepliesTruck was running fine up until now. After the WTS light goes out, I crank it and.... nothing. It doesn't even try. It's not a battery problem. I have 12.6 V from each battery before and after cranking. The lights are bright, the horn works, the dash lights are strong and bright all both before and after cranking. It just doesn't want to engage the starter. I tried my backup key as well, thinking it might be a problem with the PATS. No dice. Where to start looking?
View 6 Replies2006, ESOF. Noticed the front hubs aren't engaging but the transfer case is. What should I check?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 6.4 Diesel 4x4, and the TC is not locking. The ABS sensors were changed prior to me purchasing the truck as well as the dash and reflashed. I have recently changed the following within the last two weeks:
Internal harness
External harness
TCC solenoid
Tranny filter
I get no codes, but the ABS light is on, and the speedo doesn't work. I know on OBS trucks, the clock spring could affect it, but I am not sure about this newer ones.
My 4x4 on my 2000 model f350 will not engage. The light works, comes on briefly on startup of the engine. When I flip the switch nothing happens. When I jumper the relays nothing happens. I do not have the factory hubs, they r warn hubs and the vacuum line to them is capped off. How to figure this out on why the 4x4 will not engage?
View 13 RepliesDriving home from work yesterday, dry roads, truck unloaded, running around 50mph, had a dog almost run out in front of me. I hit the brakes hard and came to a stop. But, I noticed that my brakes did not lock up the tires. This was a bit of a surprise. My former 2003 Cummins would easily lock them up. Is my truck an anomaly? Can lock up your tires during a hard/panic stop?
View 14 RepliesI have a piece of a warn locking hub that is stuck in the wheel hub. It is stuck in a Ford F-350 super duty SRW 6.8 V10 with a Dana 50 8 lug front axle. Everything seems stock, but we bought this beast late in its life. I have removed the locking hub cap, the inner locking gear, and the metal retaining ring that holds the outer gear in place. The other side just falls apart as it should at this point.
I have tried building a custom puller utilizing the 6 hex cap screws (that attach the locking hub cap) to pull in on two 1/8" thick c channels held off with a 1/2" bolt pushing in the middle of the c channels on the axle. In one case, I sheared off the bolt, and bent the c channels. I tried it again and that time broke several of the hex cap screws off.
I have ran through penetrating oil, wd-40, propane (for a torch) and carb and brake cleaner as I tried heating up the hub while applying penetrating oil and letting things sit, then spraying out rust and such with carb or brake cleaner to loosen things up, then repeating the process over and over again. I have done this process several times. It worked on the center where the axle goes through the inner gear, so now the inner gear is now loose from the axle. But the outside is still suck like no other.
Lightly hitting on it with a 3lb sledge to crack something lose has done nothing, and left me struggling not to beat it much harder with a bigger hammer with a longer handle.
As a note, it took weeks to get the center locking gear to fall out after doing the oil, heat, and spray cleaner process, then driving with it locked in, and it took two attempts and hours to get the cap off from stuck hex cap screws, several which I had to drill out in the end after even an impact screw driver would not work. The U-Joint is bad, and I can't lock in the 4WD which is problematic at the dump and on job sites when it is muddy especially when we are towing a maxed out 5k single axle trailer that wants to dig in to the mud too.
I went to replace my driver's hub bearing last night. Found pieces missing from the locking hub (manual). I ordered them last night it's the snap ring and washers but will not be here till next Monday. Can I run the new bearing with out hurting it. It has already ruined the seals on that side I just don't have the time to take it all the way down. So if I install the bearing and don't put all the guts in the locking hub (I know the locking hub won't work) Dont need 4x4 right now but need to be able to drive it some. Just don't want to mess up the 250 dollar bearing I just got.
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