Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 - Way To Add Glove Box Light?
Jan 14, 2015
my 06 SD ha no glove box light, i have an oem light and pigtail, where would be a good place to tap into power?
don't see any thing in the area that looks like it would work
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The windows & radio go off when you open the glove box or the vanity mirrors, but not always. It also posts no codes when this happens.
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2 things-
1) When it rains, I get water dripping in the cab over the glove box. The seal on the windshield looks fine. Truck has a sun roof. Is there a drain tube or something from there that might be plugged?
2) AC sometimes blows very humid air in the cab. It doesn't do it all the time, but seems to be in a cycle. After it runs for a while it switches to this humid mode and gets almost unbearable, to the point that I turn it off. In summer, when cooling, this air is warm. In winter, air is warm, but fogs windows pretty bad. What causes this? Noticed also that the tubes under the hood covered in frost and truck drips water from this area seemingly excessive when I park it.
The truck is an 05 F350 King Ranch 4x4 with the 6.0 Powerstroke
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I have a 2006 Ford F 350 Super Duty ABS light comes on stays on till I shut the truck off and restart it this happens about once or twice a week
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I have a 6.0 and the air filter light keeps coming on and going off periodically, it seems like the engine is missing bad at times, runs better when tow/haul is on. I am not picking up and codes when I put it on the scanner. I'm possibly thinking injectors.. a friend of mine said something about checking out the "PCM"?
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I literally just purchased a "new" 06 F350 and have had it just over a month. I bought it from a used car place in Salt Lake City and have put roughly 250 miles on it, it has 105k on it. While having 1 sled in the bed and towing a 1-place snowmobile trailer up a 8% grade my check engine light lit up. Little back story, there was a slight hiccup that I started to realize it had about a few days after purchasing it, would kind of buck a few times under normal acceleration around to 40-60 mph not every time just occasionally. Been meaning to take it to a friend to have it looked at, just been fairly busy.
Now when I was driving it back home (~8-10 miles, almost exclusively downhill) at stop light and accelerating from 0mph it would not prime the boost, I was getting almost no power until I hit 2000 rpm then all of a sudden things were fine turbo would engage I was able to drive normally. It hasn't moved in 2 days as I will not drive it until I know what is wrong with it. In doing a little research I read about turbo veins being stuck open, ignition problems, and a few other things that might pertain to what is going on with my truck. I have a buddy coming in the morning tomorrow to pull some codes with a scanner so I will have more information here shortly but I just wanted to get the conversation started on this.
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I have a 2006 350 6.0l check engine light came on today truck is running normal except the fuel gauge and mile to empty gauges keep changing when I turn the truck off. What this could be?
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Started truck it ran about 10 sec. then quit, low oil pressure came up on the dash will not start now.
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So coming home yesterday from our camping trip the tow/haul light started to flash. this was about 40 miles into the trip. So we pulled over, the tranny fluid looked low, so I added a little more. The light stopped flashing, but maybe another 20 miles it started again, we pulled over and it stopped. We got to a rest stop and after about 20 minutes, I called Good Sams Roadside, there tech said to take it out of tow/haul mode and so we left the rest stop and it was good for just about 40 miles.
We hit another rest stop, at this point we were about 80 miles from home. I did not feel any difference in the truck shifting or if it was acting different. The light flashed again, sometimes going off, then coming back on. We hit two more rest stops, letting the truck rest. We left the last rest stop, we were already halfway up a big hill on the Mass Pike and after 5 miles the light came on, but then after a few miles it stop and from that point to my house ( which was just over 50 miles) it never came back on.
The truck is a 2006 F250 gas that just hit 100,000 miles. New motor put in over the winter and a few years back had the cam phasers and some work done on it. Could this be some sensors, etc that is starting to go and needs to be replaced?
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Anyways I have a 2006 F350 6.0 and a couple weeks ago I have been having issues with my running lights. In the fuse box under the dash fuse location 17 blows as soon as I insert the fuse leaving me with a short somewhere, no instrument cluster lights (but the instrument cluster gauges work and operate fine), and no running lights on the truck. I have been looking for hours and days and can't seem to locate this short (which I am assuming it is).
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I just bought a 2006 F250 Lariat. The previous owner did not have a manual for the vehicle. When I open a door the dome light does not come on. Is it supposed to come on in that vehicle? The exterior light above the rear window that illuminates the bed of the truck does come on when a door is opened so it makes me think that there is a wiring issue with the dome light. I can light the dome lamps with the switches on the lamp housing so I know that it is working and the bulbs are good.
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Experiencing a melt down with one of my trucks. One of our trucks is an 06 F250 SD with 80k on a 5.4L and the other day the tow/haul light started to flash. I took it to a buddy's repair shop (who is an experienced Ford tech and tranny guy) any way, it shifted fine until about the last 1/2 mile before I got to his shop, then it started shifting in and out of different gears. He found solenoid "A" pressure solenoid failure and one other solenoid failure, he replaced all 7 solenoids and also found the pigtail from the transmission to the wire harness bad as well and replaced that. I pick it up and get about a mile down the road and the light starts to flash again so I took it back, he ran his scanner and now found something with the coast clutch and through all his testing it told him the coast clutch needs replaced. He removed the trans. and tore it all down and found nothing wrong with anything, in fact he said everything looked in great shape and thinks the pcm failed.
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I bought a 06 f350 Friday night with 132,000 miles. No lights when we test drove or left the dealership. About 20 miles down the road the check engine light came on, truck ran fine so I continued the trip home no problem. Saturday night I had the codes check and it said a blocked EGR passage. Yesterday after a decent amount of driving a wrench light started popping on after 20-30 minutes of driving. But no memory code. Would that be related to the blocked EGR? Will cleaning the EGR fix both lights or what?
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I just ordered a set of Hella 4000x driving lights for my 2006 F-250. I have an aftermarket bumper on it, so the fog lights were taken out as there was no place to put them once the new bumper was installed. The question is, will I have any issues hooking the new driving lights up directly to the fog light system so I can just run them off the fog light switch instead of having to install the new switch on my dashboard? I know the new lights are 12V, but I couldn't find info as to whether the fog lights were running 12V as well.
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driving my '06 f250 last night, i noticed a couple random dots and dashes of orange on the warning light cluster. upon shining a flashlight on it, realized it's the ABS light (or what's left of it). there's literally 2 tiny sections of it visibly lit up. Upon shutting the truck off, and just turning the key on, I noticed the whole middle row in the warning light cluster isn't illuminating with the key on. top row (turn signals, high beams, "wrench") and bottom row all seem to illuminate fine during start up and key on. I'm mainly nervous that the check engine light could turn on and i wouldn't know. is it possible that one row of the warning lights could go out? and only partially? seems strange....
[URL]....
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2006 E-350 Dually Ambulance Chassis with the 6.0... Approx 125000 miles.
Recently, the truck started an issue. its an every once in awhile thing but has been doing it more recently. The OD light will start flashing and the vehicle will start to have clunking in the tranny and start shifting rough. ABS kicks in making it hard to stop. Once you turn the truck off and back on, Its fine until it does it again. Im connecting to a scanner tomorrow to see if i get any codes.
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I've got a 2006 f250 with 160,000 miles, trans was rebuilt by previous owner about 10,000 miles ago. The tow/haul light started blinking yesterday, only blinks for first couple of minutes of driving and then stops. Service engine light popped on today as well. Won't have access to a code reader until tomorrow, but looking for some preliminary info...
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I have an 06 6.0. I have replace icp and ipr. I had a car tube with an hole so I replaced the tube connectors. No dtcs are present. The truck will crank and run fine but after thirty minutes of running it dies, it dies faster if I put it in gear and drive it, if I move it back to neutral it starts running ruff and I lose throttle response sometimes completely and sometimes on a minute or two. I also fixed a fuel leak around the 6mm plug on pump, replaced both fuel filters.
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I am currently looking at two different fords to purchase as my new tow vehicle. 1999 Ford F250 XLT and a 2005 Ford F250 Lariat.
The 1999 has 211,000 miles and a 7.3 turbo diesel and the 2005 has 177,000 miles and a 6.0l turbo diesel.
these prices seem low to me but I have never owned a diesel before. I tow a 10,000# 38' travel trailer and need to upgrade my tow vehicle.
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I have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it).
Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
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I have a 2006 6.0, edge programmer, and egr delete. I had the hpop replaced back in July. I have a straight piped exhaust system as well. I have always noticed a loud whistle at idle from the turbo but yesterday when I started it there was not whistle at all. When I drove it it would still build boost but not like it used to. I have to really get on the throttle to build boost like it should. Is it my turbo going bad?
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