Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 - Stop Cranking Right Before Starts?
Nov 22, 2013
My 06 f350 power stroke has a viper 2way remote starter.
When I try to start it when the truck is cold it doesn't crank long enough for it to start the truck. It will try 3 times when I hit the start button and normally won't go. It almost starts most times but stops cranking right before it starts. This is driving me nuts.
I just tried 3 times to start the truck and it in ally went on the 8th time trying to crank.
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I have a 2006 F450 6.0 Super Heavy Duty. The Problem that I am having is when I turn the key it wont crank over. In order for it to start I have to hold the key in the crank position (like i am trying to start it) for about 20+ seconds, and then it will start cranking over. After it cranks over it starts just fine no problems. This only occurs when I start the truck up for the first time each day. After the initial start of the day its fine. (FYI I turn the ignition to the on position and just let it set it still takes me turning the key to the crank position and holding it 20+ seconds).
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During the winter, the truck would always start very hard. When it was trying to start it would pump out some white smoke. Now during the summer the truck will still start hard. At one point during the winter we were getting glow plug codes, now these have gone away that its warm. We did replace the glow plug control module, but that did not solve the hard start during the winter. We figured that there was a bad glow plug which is sorting out the rest. So we then figured the hard start issue would go away with the warmer weather but it has not.
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I have an 06 F350 6.0 and I am having long cold starts. On the gauge the ipr is maxing out at 85%. This only happens when cold and have never had a no start issue. When hot the engine cranks right up and the ipr stays in normal range. FICM has been replaced. Does this sound like needing a new ipr only?
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Have an 06 F250. When I slow down to make a turn then accelerate it's like the drive shaft spins half a turn before it catches. Been doing it for awhile now. Now I'm get a clunk when I come to a complete stop. When you stop then truck settles there is a little clunk. Does this sound like the slip yoke problem?
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250 2006 Superduty v10. Codes p2106 and p2135 ... Only occasionally when coming to a stop it shudders like it would stall. It happens for just a few seconds then ok again but wrench light comes on. After the next shut off and start the light goes out. I had the throttle control position sensor checked and they said it was ok. Got a software update at Ford. I hate to just start replacing expensive parts. I have about 60000 miles and it is a great truck otherwise.
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Bought 02 350 DRW, started hard first day, now not cranking. Seen a post on neutral transmission switch and mine is not lining up, but need to adjust the rod out of transmission also? I was able to match lines on switch but with flanges on fitting it will move back out of place when moving it to fit in bolts.
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I have a 2003 6.0 Auto that has an intermittent non cranking issue. Once it does crank it fires right up. Usually when it doesn't crank, I just keep trying the ignition until finally something connects and it will begin to crank and then start. Sometimes I can try it twice, other times I may sit there for 5 minutes fighting with it. My only issue is, I need to get this problem fixed before it becomes a bigger issue.
I don't think it is the ignition itself. When I am attempting to crank I can see the window switch lights and other things going off when I crank it which I though was normal when the starter is operating.
My first thought is the transmission range sensor which I am trying to locate. I looked on the transmission itself which seemed to make sense but I wasn't seeing anything familiar. Someone hinted it might be under the dash above the brake pedal but I am not seeing anything jumping out at me.
I also question the starter itself, but I hear no noise coming from it at all when the problem shows itself. No clunk or anything. Which makes me think something is causing the circuit to not function properly.
The other thought I had is a possibility in the wiring somewhere. Maybe a bad ground on one of the batteries? I have a brand new factory positive aux cable so I think I can scratch that off the list. The batteries are also charged as well, but cannot rule out the possibility that maybe one is bad since I did not install them. But I can make sure they are both charged, and the issue remains. Where I should check?
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I'm in a real jam because my work truck won't start. 1999 F250 7.3 Diesel 157k mi. - Air and fuel filters were replaced in the last 500 miles. This pup ran fine when I parked it last Wednesday before the holiday.
Checked for start last night because I'd been having battery issues, Both were replaced the previous week. It's cranking good but just won't start, not even a bit. No wait to start light, oil level is good, can not get obd reader to link.
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My 2003 F-250 (gas V8) will always start right up when it is cold. However, once it has warmed up, it often will not start. Cranks fine, but not even wanting to start (like someone pulled all the plug wires) and has left me stranded until I wait for 3+ hours for it to cool back down. Doesn't trip the check engine light, but seems to be due to the engine being hot. What this could be?
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I have an 08 f350 lariat with the 6.8 with 66000 miles. A month ago took it to the dealer with a plugged catilityc converter. All covered under warranty. Got the truck back, starts great when cold including 18 degrees the other morning. I drive 7 miles to work, shut it off and restart, it acts as if the starter is struggling to turn the engine over. Once it cools off, starts fine again. I took it back to dealer, they replaced the starter. No change. Took it back again, they replace battery. Cranks a little faster, but you can tell it's still struggling. It always starts, I'm just wondering how it will be when it's 80 out and in pulling my 9000lb camper....
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So, back in July I had some issues with my V10 F250 not cranking after a bad rain storm. (New battery was installed May 2011) and ended up recharging the battery & replacing the alternator. Have not had any problems since until yesterday as I was going to use the pickup. I drove it on Thursday with no problem and Friday Tropical Storm Lee came in with TONS of rain. Now NOTHING AGAIN. I also noticed a drop of water coming from overhead console (trip computer module that has not worked since I've had it).
So I pulled the overhead console out and water was beaded around the center overhead clearance light opening. I dried that one with a paper towel and looked under the headliner and others were slowly leaking. After looking the center one already had a drop beaded again. Would this cause a short that would drain the battery? Also having the battery drained so bad twice in 2-3 months is this going to degrade the capacity of my 5 month old battery?
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I have a 2003 F250 with 157,000 mile. Left the house last week and got about a mile down the road when I realized I had forgotten something. Pulled off to turn around and had no power to get back onto the road. RPMs wouldn't go over about 1500. Finally got it on the road and it completely shut off. Was able to get it home and have been tinkering with it. Stats from Scangauge are as follows:
Key on not cranking.
IPR 14.81%
FICM 47.6-48.0
Sync=0
ICP 32
Data while cranking.
IPR 43-47%
FICM 38-42
Sync=1
ICP 1532
I'm leaning towards a bad FICM but the ICP pressure seems to be high to me.
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I drive a 2002 F-250 7.3l and have been having a lot of issues. The most recent one is that my truck won't crank unless I've had the block heater plugged in. Like I said in the title, the batteries are supposedly fine. They've been tested by a mechanic and Advanced Auto Parts. But when I crank the truck, it will only turn over for 10 seconds or so before it loses enough juice to even turn over. So it's kind of cold, but only 40-50 degrees, so I didn't think the truck would have that much of a problem starting. I'm wondering if my issues are a combination of an electrical problem and a heating issue.
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Went to run errands today, and noticed a slight hitch in the engine cranking... I'm on a brand new battery that isn't even a year old, so it seemed a bit odd. After running the first errand, the hitch in the cranking got a lot bigger and I noticed the voltmeter was reading lower than normal. In addition, lights, HVAC motor, radio, and even brake lights would move the needle. To me this says my alternator isn't working...at all.
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2006 F250, 6.0, AT, 59K. Week and a half ago, started cranking slow. I charged the batteries and checked with a professional load tester. Both batteries good, but voltage was fluctuating and tester said charging system needs service (no battery light). I swapped in a remand alternator as a new was not available that day. It lasted 6 days and this time the battery light was intermittent.
I checked voltage and again it was fluctuating. I swapped in another remand unit and 3 days later, same thing, intermittent battery light and fluctuating voltage. I'm installing a new, not remand unit tomorrow. However, could a bad FICM cause this problem? I noticed that the engine seems louder (not the exhaust note) at idle. This truck is clean and I have no corrosion issues. What is the right direction to test the FICM?
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While in Tow/Haul with my 5th wheel when slowing down probably at 5 or 10 mph the last downshift is very hard and the brake pedal gets real soft until full stop. Afterwards the brake pedal is firm. Tow/Haul without the trailer is fine. It's an '06 F250 Supercrew 4x4.
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I have a 2005 ford f250 6.0 I was driving back home from a interview and my truck died at a stop light it would crank but no start I tried replacing the stc fitting didn't work so the I replaced the ipr still didn't work bought a new hpop still didn't work I'm lost at this point I have low pressure oil pump is working new icp, what is going on?
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i have an 04 f250 5.4 4x4 250k miles+ ...the truck has been acting weird lately. I has 0 power...i went to pass an 18 wheeler today at about 15 mph and gave it about half throttle...well it held first gear till about 5 grand then slammed into 2nd...It just has 0 umph ... it wont even consistanly pick up speed at half throttle or over..the rpms will stop ...then pick up...then stop...it always accelerated smoothly....it is bogging really bad...it was downshifting into 3rd today on little overpass hills that it NEVER does that on...something is telling me torque converter BTW no codes and no flashing overdrive light
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2005 F350 crew cab with 6.0 currently cranks but no start with a P2291 error code. Using scanguage 2 it shows icp 0, IPR 67.7, FICM 47.5 while cranking. Disconnected ICP and still no start. removed icp and hooked up air and I do not hear/see any signs of air leaking. When I disconnect the air it then whooshes out. About 2 months ago got a #1 cylinder contribution error code and changed out that injector and it has ran fine up until this issue.
Can this be a IPR? I am leading towards the HPOP, but as it costs a pretty penny would really love to make sure I tried every other avenue.
I have 197K on it, and 2 years ago did a EGR cooler delete. In May this year replaced the oil cooler, and then in August changed out the #1 fuel injector.
Oil cooler screen was broken. Cleaned the entire reservoir out. Could this just be a clogged IPR? or seeing the change while cranking an indication that it is working?
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My 6.0 seems to only want to fire when cold, whats the issue?
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