My 2006 6.0 shut off immediatEly after starting this morning and never started back up. I have a scan Guage 2 hooked up. I'm showing no ficm voltage and no sync even when cranking. I physically checked the ficm voltage with a dvm at the screw to the far right on the ficm, and I have 48 volts. Why do I have 48 volts at the ficm, but 0 volts showing on my scan guage? And no sync when cranking?
View 4 RepliesTried changing fuel filters on my 2008 F350 diesel. Tried primary - open drain - no tool to remove cap, closed drain. Removed top cap, replaced filter.
Started but immediately shut down. Did this twice. Put old filter back in - still no start. Wrench code light on.
Ok truck shut down wouldn't start back. Put fuel filter o. Frame cranks but won't start. Was told has high pressure oil leak in engine?
View 8 RepliesMy truck will turn over very strong but will not crank. it cranked one time then died immediatly. 30 min later it cranked and ran for about 5 min then died again. Alternator, fuel pump.
Gas v10 motor, full of gas, new spark plugs.
My 2002 F250 7.3 randomly dies while driving and seems to only be when I hit a bump no matter the size. I have checked the valve cover harness connector outside of the valve covers and they look fine. I checked the ECM connection took it off and reconnected it.
Changed the CPS censor twice, checked the ICP sensor, checked continuity of all the glow plugs through the valve cover harness. Checked the fuel pump, checked all related fuses, changed the fuel filter, checked glow plug relay, batteries hold good voltage and were recently upgraded to bigger batteries.
Engine runs just a little rough but not enough to be of concern. Air filter is clean and oil level is perfect. What could possible be causing my truck to randomly die when it hits a bump and not start back right away??? This truck is new to me and its the first diesel engine I have ever owned.
I normally just troll the existing threads and find what I need, but I am stumped. Just had the HPOP replaced and ran fine for 2 months. Then I started getting a hot no start. So it sat for a couple of days. Then I went to pull it in the shop, it started, I backed up 10 ft and it shut off. I started it back up and it died. I am going to hook it up and figure out my AE software tonight. So question, can an IPR valve get clogged after the fact? Or could it be a bad HPOP?
View 12 RepliesI bought this truck used and it is my first F-250. I took it to the shop last week and they found a few things and a cracked radiator was one. They replaced the radiator with a new one. I heard the sound before the new radiator and I still hear it now. The coolant level is not dropping and the engine is not over heating (also no fluid on the ground). Is this a normal cool down sound?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 super duty 5.4 XLT 4x4. I got home turned it off went to move it and it cranks but won't start. I sprayed brake cleaner in the intake and it started for a few seconds, back fired then shut off. Where is the fuel pump relay? Or how can I power the pump to test it? All the fuses are good, I swapped the relays under the hood with each other and still nothing. The fuel pump shut off switch is not tripped. Is their a way to test it?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 F-250 Super Duty (6 liter diesel). The high beams stay on unless I pull the fuse (fuse 30). It doesn't matter what position the headlight switch is in. It is like the high beam flash on the multi-function switch is stuck. It feels fine, but high beams stay on regardless of position, even with the truck off. The low beams (if in low beam when the truck is shut off) do go out as do the running lights after 15 or so seconds (normal) it's just the high beams. Also the high beam indicator light is on all the time (until I pull the fuse) and the fog lights will not come on until I pull the fuse. Should I replace the multifunction switch or look elsewhere?
View 10 RepliesI recently pulled the stock tp38 off. The reason for rebuilding is the turbo started making an awful screeching on start up and shutdown when the compressor is at a low rpm and starts to wobble.
The shaft has 1/2 in and out play with 1/8 in every direction. the compressor has some wear marks but no chips, the turbine has some good chunks missing. from what i can see there are no marks on the housings.
What should i put in it as far as new compressor and turbine/shaft. nothing that requires machining. I am not looking to run more boost or anything, just looking to reduce spool up time if possible. Any specific rebuild kit? what turbine and compressor should I go with?
While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
View 12 RepliesSo I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
View 1 RepliesI just picked up my first truck ever yesterday, a 2012 F250 crew 4x4 with the 6.2L gas engine. It seems to me, when the engine is cold, that it raps or knocks for a second or two immediately after startup...is this characteristic? The truck is a 'new-leftover' model with about 28 miles on it so far. When warm, or even semi-warm, the engine starts right up and sounds like a healthy american V8.
View 14 Replies2004 f350 sensor switch will now and then let me turn it "on", but turns itself off immediately. Has never worked since I owned truck.
View 1 RepliesI am having a problem with trailer lights and an 03 350. When the truck is in reverse the fuse for travel trailer running lights and tail lights blows immediately. Changing plugs on the truck did not work. Truck has been hooked up to 4 other trailers including another travel trailer with no problems. Our travel trailer has been hooked up to an 08 and a 2011 truck with no problems. Fuse 38 20 amp. 7 post rv plug.
View 3 RepliesI've been having sporadic starting issues with my truck since the fall. I had the spark plugs changed but that did not work. The hard starts usually occur when the engine is hot....after filling gas or just running into the grocery store. The engine seems to turn over slowly the first try and won't start. The second or third try the engine turns over normally and the truck usually starts.
I just got back from a 90 minute drive and shut off the truck for 5 minutes and now it won't even turn over. My thought is that it can't be the battery....its been charging for 90 minutes. Headlights are strong, wipers work fast, fan blows hard. That being said I think alternator or battery can be ruled out?
Where do I look next? Starter? Is there a starter solenoid that could be defective?
I just bought me a 2006 Ford F350 Lariat. A sticker in front of the radiator says says that my truck is equipped with remote start. How would I go about using it? I only have one fob. If it is in fact something that I can utilize I have seen guys on youtube program their fob to do it by clicking three times.
View 2 RepliesI have a 06 F250 with a 5.4L truck has 50k on it. I have been reading many articles on the issues with can phaser/cam tensions/cam chain issues. I have noticed that when I start the truck a get a knocking noise that goes away with in 5 sec of the truck starting. I have been noticing lateley if I am sitting still at a light and go to give it gas for a short period I get a sound that sounds like a cam chain slap for a split second as the truck starts to move it goes away. I had a friend of mine stand outside the truck and put in gear and power brake it and as it decelerates you hear a quick cam chain slap. I use Catrol 5-20w standard oil and motor craft oil filter. I purchased the truck with #6k on it 3 years ago I have replaced the leaking exhaust manifold with Gibson stainless unit and have confirmed they are not leaking again. I have heard that the hydrolic cam tensioners sometimes get clogged and people have run a oil additive to clean out clog.
View 14 RepliesStarted truck it ran about 10 sec. then quit, low oil pressure came up on the dash will not start now.
View 2 RepliesI went to start my 2006 F350 6.0 this morning. 20 degrees outside. It nearly turned over, then it appeared that the batteries would not support another start - a slowing of the pre-engine start revving....
So I let it sit a while, now it won't start at all. When I try to start it, the dashboard flashes, clicking sounds occur and even after pulling out the keys, the needles on the gauges shake for a few seconds.
Is this more a battery issue or an alternator issue?
So here's the deal, crank no start its getting fuel. Has base oil pressure and i put a ficm on that test good with a voltage meter key on engine off and cranking. I haven't hand any trouble finding info on this issue so. We can keep picking away. Just cant find anything about this.
A buddy of mine who has been trying to figure it out for me, Got it to start using a starting fluid. And it would run if someone was pushing the gas peddle but wouldn't idle. Or start without the starting fluid.