I need to replace the ball joints on my truck, and it looks like a fairly formidable job. I replaced a brake rotor and a caliper the other day, so I'm not afraid to get in there - just not sure what I'm really getting myself into without a bit of guidance from you fine FTE folks.
What do I need to consider while I'm in there?
I am replacing the ball joints on my 07 f250 4x4. got down to the removal of the shaft itself and it won't budge. What is the secret here. Have to go to work on monday, and the weather in Cleveland isn't going to be very good on Sunday.
View 10 RepliesOn my 03 F350 4x4 SC 5.4L auto, I have to replace the tie rod end off the pitman arm, figured as long as I have it in the air, I'd check the ball joints because the tires are starting to wear in the inside. Hoping it's just a camber adjustment but my luck, it'll be ball joints, SO, with that said. I'm looking at Motorcraft, moog and driveworks brands, which are better? Are there other brands that would be better than these 3? Talking to my local mechanic he wants to put in moog brand, so I guess I'll be doing it myself if they're bad.
Any tips or tricks about installation procedure?
Is there a more recent write up with pictures, special tool list and/or part numbers?
Early 1999 needs ball joints on drivers side. Should I just do both sides?
99 F250 super duty 7.3
Had new ball joints installed and alignment. Steering does not return to center. Returns a little on a tight turn like in town but difficult when just changing lanes in town or not. Took it to another shop and they said the ball joints were too tight. right side pretty tight and left side really tight. Moog ball joints. First mechanic says they will get better with a few miles on them. Second mechanic says not so.
Also, have new shocks but get a bouncing in the front when at 45 mph and goes away at almost 50 mph.
After 240,000 miles I had to get the ball joints on my 02 f250 2 wheel drive replaced and the alignment set. I notice that the steering is really tight. In fact that it will not attempt to return to center on the highway. The guy that did the work has 30 years experience doing this sort of thing and he says I just need to drive it and it will loosen up. Interested in hearing from others that have replaced ball joints; Is this normal? How long do they take to loosen up?
View 7 Replies2005 Ford 350. I want to change the ball joints on the front axel and I cant remove the axle out of dif. to remove the ball joint housing. I have been prying and pulling and it just moves out a 1/4 inch or so .They tell me there is no ring to remove in dif before you can pull it out but why this trouble?
View 4 RepliesMy brother crashed his 2000 Ford Ranger Pick up and did some front end damage. The spindle,( steering knuckle) and upper control arm need to be replaced. I told him, WHILE YOU ARE AT IT AND THE TRUCK IS ALL APART, you should replace the ball joints and tie rod ends.AND>>>if you replace one side you should do the other side too. Front end and steering parts should ALWAYS be replaced in pairs. Also get a wheel alignment! My other brother said, don't do that if they are still ok. why pay the extra money for parts you don't need. I said, you can do it cheap, OR,you can do it right. Who is right?
View 12 RepliesMy upper ball joint on the drivers side needs to be replaced, so obviously I'm going to replace all four.
Any recommendations on ball joints rockauto has a lot of options. I was just going to buy the motorcraft but thought I should ask here first.
The write up in the tech folder also includes parts I may need, are there any parts that I should buy to have on hand just in case?
The key ring part of the fob for the keyless entry on the truck (2006 F250 V10) broke a while back. Finally got around to buyin a replacement only to realize that the keyless entry that came with the truck is not OEM. It's an Omega L2M 4410.
In trying to cycle locks to replace the fobs, the locks will not cycle. Tried everything that can be found on forums, youtube, etc. all to no avail. This leads me to believe that the aftermarket keyless was put on because there wasn't keyless from the factory.
I have experience with installing aftermarket systems, but this one stumps me - can't find where the system was installed in the first place. To me, this sounds like it should go to a shop for further investigation.
I have my front axles out to replace the U-Joints but they are rusted in there. Even the C-Clip is fused/rusted in place. I use my flat wheel grinder and ground out the C-Clips but the U-Joint caps wont budge. Been soaking in penetrating oil too. Any way other than drilling them out?
View 1 RepliesI need to do both lower ball joints. is there a write up or process to do it? do I have to remove the whole hub assembly/knuckle thing or can I do it with all that stuff in place?
View 4 RepliesI noticed my '12 F250 has grease zerks on the front axle u-joints and was wondering how often you need to grease them ? My truck has 10k on it and while I was changing the oil tonight I decided to give them a few shots of grease until it started coming out of the joint.
View 12 RepliesToday was the first time I have locked my wheel hubs in and used 4 wheel drive. However when I did all this i noticed that when I turn there is a growling sound but only when turning. It does not make the sound when unlocked and in 2 wheel drive.
View 4 RepliesOK, I've done a lot of things over the years on cars and trucks but never messed with ball joints on a F250SD 4x4 with 160k miles. Found out today when getting new tires that the ball joints are shot. I trust the shop but know I can do this my self. So if I'm going to do this what should I replace? Since I'll be doing this I want to know from those with more time under the truck than me what else should I be replacing at the same time. I have done the front wheel bearings and of course shocks. Just what am I in for and what other parts and brands should I be using? Bushing kits for stabilizer bar? Replace stabilizer bar with heavier after market?
View 12 RepliesI can't afford to replace it now and want to quiet the squealing that occurs only when I turn right. A mechanic sprayed something on there about a month ago that caused the squealing to stop for about a week, but don't remember what it was. It's a 2002 S.D....
View 14 RepliesI have replaced my ball joints and now putting everything back together. I am having trouble tightening the nut on the lower ball joint, the joint turns with the nut as soon as it starts to get tight.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 f250 superduty v-10 -- 4x4 -- when turning with 4wheel drive disengaged I have consistent thumping sound coming from front end -- more so when turning to left but still prevalent on right turns -- I put new hubs in due to the grinding noise when driving slow to mid speeds -- like axles not totally disengaging and grinding on teeth. but this is a secondary noise -- replaced left front axle with dorman unit -- tried to replace u joints on oe axle but rusted so badly couldn't get c clips to separate from ujoints --
this one is kicking my butt and making me look like a novice -- don't think it is ball joints or anything suspension related but I could be wrong -- sounds like thump thump thump as turning in slightly tight circle or going around corner in the parking lot.
My 2004 f250 ball and u joint replacement job is at a bit of a stand still. Tore it down, brought the knuckle and axle shafts to an ex mechanic I know, because he has a 20 ton Harbor freight shop press. He mostly used a hammer, bashed out the old ball joints (I already had removed the u joints). U joint turned out fine.
I did notice the upper ball joint protruded a very slight bit on one side in the knuckle, meaning you could feel with your finger on the underside of the joint and on the one side it is not exactly flush with the interior of the knuckle. I would say it protrudes no more than a thirty second or so.
I brought it home, installed the boots on the moog joints, (the bottom was unusually difficult to put on), greased the joints and hung the knuckle on the axle tube, by a few turns on the lower joints nut. I then inserted the camber sleeve on the top stud, torqued the bottom to 49 fp then the top to 67 and finally the bottom to 150. End result, very stiff movement on the knuckle. No tie rod attached, and it takes to hands to move it from the "stopped" position,(turned all the way). I am sure it is stiffer than when I did the other side.
I tried loosening the nuts completely, same stiffness. I redid the torque sequence, no change. Tried hammering the ears around where the joints seat no improvement. The fellow who installed into the knuckle came and took a look. He agreed the knuckle was stiffer than you would hope, but, he suggested Putting it all together, as he believed they would loosen up before too long. I am not sure whether to try that, or remove the knuckle now, and redo with new joints. Pros and cons to either approach.
My question is : Does a knuckle become more sketchy by the time it is dealing with the pressing of a third set of ball joints? If I finish the install now, will a stiff knuckle action lead to other mechanical wear within a thousand miles or so, while I wait to see if they loosen up?
Took my truck in to get the wheel bearings replaced (driver's side was singing pretty loud). Decided to have the ball joints replaced at the same time since they were still original at 133,000. Got the truck back and the steering is just not right. At high speeds it acts like an old F100 wandering back and forth and the steering is pretty tight when you try to correct the wandering. I have taken it back to Ford and had the alignment checked twice.
They adjusted it slightly and "loosened" the stearing gear box. Truck is better at low speeds but still not right at highway speeds. Ford is telling me there is a "break-in" period for the ball-joints. I don't remember my friends F350 having a break-in period when he replaced his ball joints. Truck tracked fine before the work was done. Tie-rod ends also checked out. Truck is a 99 350 CC SRW 8ft bed.
I have 2009 F-450 6.4L Diesel with 41K miles and just started to have a noise that can be heard up in the CAB of the truck while driving or idling. It sounds like a dry ball bearing that would go bad in home computer AC power supply or CPU cooling fan. The sound starts when the engine is at full operating temperature and most noticeable and the loudest if you are standing in front of the engine at idle outside.
Checked all fluids and they are normal. Turning the steering wheel doesn't affect the sound either or turning off the AC. Check engine light has not come on. The only thing I have noticed is that clutch fan stays on a very long time after starting cold and takes about a mile or two before it disengages. The truck is only used to tow a 36' 5th wheel and sits the majority of the time.