Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 - No Power / Boost?
Apr 8, 2015
I have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it).
Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
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2006 F-250 6.0... I'm getting a P0470 error code and no boost, The unison ring is free and clear, the Turbo will not create boost till about 2000 RPM on the road. If I unplug the VGT there is no change in the turbo.
When the vehicle is started there is no tone change in the exhaust. This just started after I replaced a dummy plug in the oil rail. I checked all the connectors as well. I cleaned the EBP and tube.
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So recently i blew a seal in my steering gear box. I replaced the unit with a reman and per napa put in power steering fluid. I am pretty sure i was supposed to use atf (my dumb fault for not researching that) so now my question is whats the correct way to flush the system? Also what fluid should go back in the system? This is a non hydro boost setup. Setup is a 2002 f350 v10.
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I drive an 08 f-350 with 120k no tune or deletes..(yet). I was driving home yesterday when I all of a sudden I have a lack and power. I then notice i have no boost at all. I heard an exhaust leak and instantly checked my boots on inter-cooler pipes....
After farther inspection, the bolt fairy came and I am missing some bolts on my up pipe where it meets turbo. Is this break in vacuum system the reason I'm having no boost? What is easiest way to get to up pipes without removing cab? Where did the bolts go? I got to get this fixed because I need truck to get around town.
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I've had a large leak from somewhere in my power steering/brake boost system (the whole reservoir gone in under a week) and I want to finally get to the bottom of it. Instead of paying a mechanic labor, I figured I'll look at it myself. So I got under it and I think that the leak is coming from the power steering gearbox, or a line that goes to it, but how to figure out which. How to diagnose this HydroBoost leak on my 6.4L? Here are some pictures ....
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I have a 2003 f250 with a 6.0l that at random will only build 11 psi of boost and throws a low boost input code. The egr is disconnected but not removed. Ive checked the map sensor line and tube and replaced the sensor itself. The truck also has an air raid intake. Other than that it's stock. Seriously sometimes it runs perfect for a week than will be back to only 11 psi for a day. I'm not sure if it matters but it seems that it more commonly has the issue when I'm running the air conditioning.
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I have a serious issue with my 2004 F250 6.0. Pulling a trailer something under the hood sounded like an explosion and lost power and boost. The truck started blowing black smoke from the tail pipe. I could see no psychical damage to anything under the hood. There was absolutely no power but managed to cripple home. What happen.
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ok this is my first diesel ever its an 01 7.3 powerstroke 250 4x4 . with 4 inch exhaust and used to have a programmer on it but it is supposedly back to stock. so I can be driving say in 4th gear and just hit the on button for cruise control without cruise being on and my boost will go from like 15 to 30lbs pretty quickly.... why on earth would it do this the previous owner was an old man who pulled horse trailers and had no clue why either ???
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I may have got a few shavings in the engine while drilling and tapping a hole for my boost gauge on the Y pipe. I am sure I got 95% of the shavings out but am now worried about the 5% that may have fell inside.
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I have a 2006 Ford F250 super duty with the 5.4 liter gasoline engine. I started on a 120 mile trip last week and got about mile from home when it just shut down. I walked back home and got the wife's Tahoe and pulled it back home.
I got it in the shop and started to try & figure what had happened. I'm not a mechanic but I am a fair DIYer so I spent a lot of time with my friend GOOGLE. I originally expected the problem to be the fuel pump. I could not check fuel pressure because this model does not have the port in order to hook up the fuel pressure gauge. I could hear the pump run when the ignition was turned on so I looked a little deeper. I checked that it was firing and even shot some starting fluid into the breather to see if it would run with that, which it did.
At this point I turned back to the fuel supply. I learned from google that the injectors were supposed to have a constant 12 volts so out came the meter and low and behold no voltage on any of the injectors. I had already checked EVERY fuse on the truck and didn't find any burnt ones. I took the meter and rechecked all that had anything to do with the PCM (by reading the fuse description from the owners manual). My old eyes had actually missed the burnt one. Number 23 a 30 amp fuse. I replaced it and it immediately blew also.
I started checking continuity to ground on the injector plugs and found that I had a direct short to ground. I needed a wiring diagram for the injector circuit. I searched and searched some more for one that matched my vehicle. I even bought a repair manual from my local Auto Zone. This book didn't even have the diagram I needed! I finally found a diagram From Auto Zone's website for a 2000 expedition.
It at least gave me an idea of what other items were powered by this same circuit. I learned that the 02 sensors are on the same circuit so I crawled under the truck & started searching. I found that the up stream 02 sensor on bank 2 had gotten against the exhaust and created the short. I unplugged it and rechecked continuity to ground and found that my shot was no longer there. I took the sensor out repaired the burnt wire and reinstalled. I hooked everything back up and the ole truck fired right up.
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2005 f350srw 6.0 ps. If I stomp it for less than about 5 seconds no issues. Passing a car on a 2 lane or pulling a grade with the 5'r (longer sustained high boost over about 5 seconds) it will pull fine until normal driving recurs. Once normal driving recurs, converter locked 5th gear zero boost on accell. If I mash it to down shift it will stumble stumble stumble black smoke then finally boost fine. Let off same no boost issue. It seems to "reset" after about 4 miles/ 4 minutes. Sct canned tunes/ custom tunes don't make a diff. My dd is idp unlimited tow and 40 ficm tune. I cleaned ebp tube and sensor no change. Haven't tested sensor. I'm wondering if it's low fuel pressure related. Fixing to sell truck and want to fix this. Been going on for a year or so. Hasn't always been this way.
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I'm have a 2011 6.7, 180,000. I have noticed a high pitched whistle, not an turbo whine, that disappears after the boost drops to less that the first mark on the gauge 5-10psi??? It stays consistent in tone, the mileage is good, power is good normal 6.7!!.
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i have a 2006 F250 XLT 5.4L 4x4 Crew Cab. after months of dealing with an ongoing power steering issue and replacing pumps left and right, i decided to replace the entire power steering system. Ordered Gearbox, Pump and Cooler from dealership. The install went fairly easy, and finished in 2 days.
The truck used to whine and grind as i would turn wheel any direction, driving or in park and the wheel used to pull , like jerk a bit when i would go like in a u-turn.
Not anymore, all those issues are gone. Steers straight , no whining , wheel doesn't pull anymore and all seems fine, EXCEPT when i take a turn , for example onto a driveway where its a bit of an incline. Then, i hear some grinding noise and a bit of vibration in my wheel. I think it comes from gearbox or pump.
Im scared not to drive it too much as all is new components and don't want to ruin all over again.
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What is the best way to bleed air from the power steering lines? I just replaced the power steering pump on a 06 6.0 f250 and now I need to bleed the lines and refill the power steering. I'm just curious as to what is the best and easiest way to do this.
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I am working on a 2006 f450 6.0l. My problem is when I take key out of the ignition the power stays on in truck. Radio stays on and windows. I swapped out relays checked door jam switch I am stuck. Looking for wiring diagrams so I can trace the wire.
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I have a 06 6.0 Powerstroke 6 Speed every time I get on it or even try to get going I have no power and I have pure black smoke blowing out the exhaust somebody told me to change the fuel filters which I did which they were pretty nasty then after I did that I seem to still have the same problem so then they told me to check the EGR valve put injector cleaner in it to clean the injectors which I have not done a gr or injector cleaner yet just wanted to know, what it could be or what I can do to prevent the black smoke I have no power either...
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I have a 2006 F250 Super, CrewCab 4 dr, 6.0 w/60K. Last month I tried the rear power window and .......nothing.
It tried to open 1/2 inch and then stopped, had to try to power it closed and it moved 1/4 inch and I pushed it the rest. Removed the rear cover behind the seats and I can see the motor and wires attempting to move but it does not move and I am afraid to burn the motor out or push too hard and break a cable or worse.
The track looks really dirty, I use that window maybe once every 2 months.
1. Can I replace the motor myself?
2. Can I put something in the track to clean/lubricate?
3. Should I try to open the window under power and some additional manual pushing?
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2006 F250 and my passenger light was out. I thought it was a bad bulb and I wanted to upgrade anyway so I bought some Slyvania Ultra headlights. Pulled out the old bulb and it didn't appear to be broken, but I installed the new upgraded lights anyway. Still not coming on. I tried the hi beams and still nothing. Got an electrical probe to test the wires and still no juice. Where the wires run to so I can try to find the break in the line? I'm assuming there is not a seperate fuse for the passenger side...On a side note when I went hunting a few weeks ago I had some kind of animal make a nest under the hood, its possible a mouse/rat/squirrel ate my headlight wire, but the nest was in the top center of the engine by the turbo and oil filter.
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I have a question about my new to me 2006 F-250 CC, 4x4. Resource the 12-volt accessory supply wire that goes to pin #4 on the 7 pin trailer connector? We have interior lights in our enclosed race trailer and it's a bit of a pain to have to turn the key on to use the lights. Just don't want to run a direct fused wire from the battery to the plug if I don't have to.
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I have a 2006 F250 XLT 6.0 diesel. I bought last month to haul my fifth wheel. Looking for the wiring diagram for the "under hood lamp". I have no power at the connector of the under hood lamp. I have checked all the fuses in both locations (battery box and central junction box) and did not find a blown fuse. The under hood lamp is not listed on the the central junction box fuse and relay posting in the owner manual. Is it controlled by something else?
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I will be pulling apart the back of my crew cab to replace the broken old speakers and run some new wires, thought while I'm in there I should look at the power sliding rear window. The switch has power and the fuse is good, however when pressed, the window won't move. I can move it by hand though.
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