Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 - Front Hubs Not Engaging In 4wd?
Jun 14, 2017
2006, ESOF. Noticed the front hubs aren't engaging but the transfer case is. What should I check?
View 3 Replies2006, ESOF. Noticed the front hubs aren't engaging but the transfer case is. What should I check?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 F250 4x4 and the ESOF switch not engaging hubs, currently I have no 4x4 lights coming on in the cluster when i turn the switch. I am not experiencing any of the vaccum symptoms that most people are suggesting. I When I turn the switch i also do not hear any relays clicking. Relays have been tested, and i waited for the 45 second transfer delay that the manual mentions. ESOF switch has power, and is working properly (I know because I bought a new one in attempt to fix the problem) Basically I have no responses from any of my 4x4 indicators or parts.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 f250 CCSB 4x4 with the ESOF auto hubs. The auto hubs won't engage automatically. They work fine manually. The transfer case is engaging and correct lights are coming on. There is a little bit of vacuum coming from the vacuum switch but it doesn't seem like much to me. All the dash HVAC controls work fine though. I Lubed and cleaned inside the hubs according to Guzzles directions.
While torn down, I blew through the vacuum port on the outside of the hub and there was little to no restriction. I don't think there is enough vacuum to pull the hubs, but is that possible if all the dash controls work fine? What pressure should it take to engage them? My next step is to pick up a vacuum pump and see if I can engage them with it.
My hubs will not lock when put into 4x4. I disconnected all lines from the solenoid to both hubs and tested them for leaks... All good there. I put a gauge on the lines at both hubs one at a time while the other is still connected and get no reading when switched into 4x4. I checked for vacuum right out of the solenoid, and I get 2inHg when switched into 4x.
The vacuum pump kicks on every time I start the truck, even if I just shut it off and re-start right away. There is no delay when switching my ac/heater controls to different settings or vent locations. So I know there is vacuum. How much vacuum I should be getting out of the solenoid to the hubs?
2004 F350 6.0L....
inside round thing with 4 notches in it is a smaller diameter than the new hubs. Will theystill work?
View 6 RepliesI am considering buying a 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty XLT 4x4 V10 engine tomorrow. I am hesitant because I cant get the 4x4 to engage. It goes into 4x4 low and high and the front driveshaft spins but it wont engage the wheels. One side locking hub locks but the other side the locking hub is cracked off and so I there is no way to turn to lock that side. I will of course replace the Locking Hub ASAP if I buy the rig but my question here is, if one side is locked should one side of the front axle spin, meaning if only one side Locking Hub is locked should that wheel turn and the other not? Both are not turning but as I said the driveshaft is spinning.
I don't know if both sides need to be locked in order for the front wheels to engage while in 4x4 high or low. Or if one side should engage if only one side is locked; the wheel that's locked of course..
2001 Ford F250 XLT Super Duty 4x4
V10 engine...
I have a 2010 F250 with 154000km (96000 miles) that we bought last week. When I was looking it over during the purchase I noticed the front axle didn't lockup in "auto", in manual lock it seemed fine so I figured vacuum leak or something like that. Yesterday morning I was in the yard and got a little hung up in snow drifts so just got out, locked the hubs and switched to 4x4 and I think the front end didn't engage at all.
So later on I had it in the shop installing the two way radio and decided to check the front end out a little more thoroughly. Vacuum lines seem fine, hubs turn fine but I notice the axle shafts both move up and down almost a quarter inch, that seems excessively loose to me. I've been doing some research on the internet and it appears the front hubs are serviced as a unit, also some information seems to point to needle bearings within the actual locking hub mechanism itself?
So the questions:
1. Does that front axle shaft seem excessive? What are the specs?
2. Can I replace bearings and seals only or do these units come only as assemblies? Inner hub, outer hub units? Wheel bearings seem fine.
3. With that much play is there a chance the outer axle shafts are worn also?
So I noticed the past few days my 09 F250 was clunking in the front end when turning hard even with the hubs in auto so I knew there was an issue in there somewhere. This morning I took the jack and found the passenger side would not release no matter which way the lock was turned. Pulled the locking assembly out and found a couple of the pieces of plastic cage broken (truck has 250k miles) which is to be expected I guess but the locking ring that holds the inner piece that slides over the axle stub was off and hanging next to the c-clip on the axle.
So with the plastic of the cage already being broke and the mileage on the truck it's clear I need a new lock for that side.
Here's my dilemma, I have to deliver a conference room table 200 miles away tomorrow morning that they need for meeting tomorrow afternoon at 3:00pm. I cut the rest of the plastic pieces and took the gears out leaving just the cover with the diaphragm and put it back on the hub. I can't come up with any logical reason why I can't drive the truck this way but just want to bounce it off the experts here before I take off on a 400 mile trip in the morning. The only thing I can come up with is if I were to engage the 4wd the vacuum might suck the auto-lock diaphragm in and pop it but otherwise I can't find any reason to not run it this way, the hub is still sealed up and free-wheeling just like if it were in 2wd anyway.
About a month ago I bought a 2004 F-250 160xxx from a reputable Ford dealer here in town. The dealer performed a safety and emissions inspection, and spent about a grand on other repairs, as a condition of my purchase. Today I had it in the shop for an instrument cluster issue (at a different Ford dealer, closer to my house), and was told the vacuum lines were all messed up. Their write up is below:
"Check 4x4 operation. Transfer case shifts to 4x4 and 4x4 low. Front hubs do not engage automatically. Check vacuum at the hubs. No vacuum. Check the vacuum at the solenoid. No vacuum. Perform visual of the engine vacuum lines. There is no vacuum to the reservoir. Vacuum line is routed wrong from the fuel pressure regulator to the vapor management valve. There is other vacuum concerns. All of the vacuum line routing needs to be inspected and corrected."
The service rep told me it is questionable whether the 4x4 ever worked, although during the few weeks I've owned it, I could hear gears or other mechanical parts making noise which seemed to me to be in response to me turning the 4x4 electronic switch. She also said there was a vacuum line dangling loose with a screw in the end of it.
Before I contact the dealer where I bought the truck, I am planning my going-in position. But I wanted to get a sense of a) how serious of a problem this might be? and b) how reasonable it is that the dealer didn't catch this issue before I bought the truck while they were in their fixing other things?
The dealer who sold me the truck made it very clear that the sale was as-is, and I took it to my mechanic prior to purchase, though unfortunately he only had time for a cursory look at the engine. Obviously he didn't look closely enough to find this issue.
I'm not sure if I should ask the dealer who sold it to me to fix it, or ask them to allow me to return it, or sell it back to them, or if I should eat the cost of fixing it. How wrong would it be to try to trade it in for something else?
I was using 4x4 High the other day and it was working just fine. Now today, I was at my first parking lot to plow and used the ESOF to shift into 4x4 High and it did not engage with the hubs being in auto mode. The lights on the dash show up indicating that I am, but I am still in 2wd.
If I manually lock the hubs, it engages 4wd high. I tried the same thing using the ESOF to switch over to 4x4 low and it does NOT engage either.
I also noticed that heater blower was switching over to full defrost even though I had it set on the floor setting (manual heat climate *****).
Does this sound like a vacuum leak? I haven't had a chance to test the lines yet. Btw, this is my second work truck and not the one listed in my signature below. It's a 2006 f-350 6.0 xlt.
I've noticed my front axles are rotating all the time even when the hubs are in auto and supposed to be unlocked when in 2wd. Is there a rebuild kit for these so they will unlock the axles or do I need to buy new locking hubs?
View 14 RepliesMy manual hubs on my 2006 f250 have become very hard to rotate so I would like to replace them. I saw that bronco graveyard has Warn hubs for a Dana 60 front axle. Is this what I need? My door sticker with the axle code is illegible, and I want to make sure I get the right hubs.
View 5 RepliesYesterday I was parked on an incline with my front wheels on gravel and the rear wheels on wet grass/mud. When I tried to go, the rear wheels started spinning. I then switched on the low 4x4, and tried to go. The rear wheels continued to spin, but the front did not turn. I had new wheels installed, that has a cap that covers the manual locking hub, so I couldn't turn it to lock the hub. What should I look for to fix the problem?
2007 F250 4X4 Larriat SRW
Its a 2016 F-250, 6.2L gas truck with the electronic shift on the fly transfer case.
I have put right at 22,000 miles on it like this, frequently at 70-80 mph.
What are the odds I have damaged it and is there anything I should do now that I discovered it - other than put them both in "AUTO".
Truck has been to the dealer twice and not once was this noticed. They blamed the squealing on the brakes which I knew it wasn't.
Back in March while still plowing, my auto locking hubs wouldn't stay engaged. After talking to the local Ford service shop they told me that it was moisture in the vaccum lines and that it had frozen. They told me to manually lock the hubs and bring it in to be repaired when I had time. I made a appointment in the middle of May and finally got it in last week. Now the hubs are seized in the locked position and they will not warranty the work or parts because they say it was caused by the salt from our roads. Does this sound right?
View 5 RepliesI've read many posts about ESOF and fault vacuum lines and how that will prevent 4x4 from engaging. I experienced a different problem this past weekend. Here's the situation...
Was about 1.5hr drive up to the mountains. Outside temp when we left the house: 10F. Outside temp when we arrived at destination: 9F. Quite a bit of road grime on the way up from sand, slush, and that magnesium chloride (or whatever they hell they put on the roads in an attempt to keep it from freezing). 4x4 worked fine on the way up. 4x4 light on dash was on, and I KNOW I could not have climbed the snow-covered forest roads without being in 4x4. Also, I could hear and feel the front hubs turning.
On the way home, once I got to where the roads were sufficiently ice free, I turned the dial on the dash back to 2WD. 4x4 light goes out. But I can hear and feel the front hubs are still turning. Toggled the switch back and forth a few times. 4x4 light would come and go with the toggled switch. But the hubs didn't disengage.
When I got back into town (outside temp now about 5), we stopped at a red light and I toggled the switch again. This time, the hubs disengaged. Is this a sign of bad vacuum? Or more an indication of faulty hubs??
I have a 01 f250 v10 4x4 ... My stock hubs squeak non stop when they are engaged. I want to get a set of warns.
I am going down to napa tomorrow, looking for a detailed link, or instructions of how to install these things? i have searched but just keep coming up with people raving about how great warn hubs are!
Do I need any special tools, do I need to grease the new ones before installing?
I just got a 99 F250 PSD, it had not been in 4wd in a while, now the hubs won't unlock.
My 01 F250 seemed to have strictly manual hubs. Turn right to lock, left to unlock. They may have been aftermarket, but on by the PO. Do I need to put some new Warns on the 99? Or can I lube then up and get them functional.
I just ordered '00 F250 SC 4x4 SWB XLT with the factory standard manual hubs. The hubs show up on the vehicle order confirmation as code "21M MAN LOCKING HUB". I can't find this code in the ordering guides anywhere but kbb.com shows this code as "Manual hubs delete. Required with 213 shift-on-the-fly". I want the manual hubs. I think ##### is incorrect. For my piece of mind, could someone who has also ordered the factory standard manual hubs verify that the code is indeed 21M. And for those who ordered shift-on-the-fly, could you verify that 21M does NOT show up on your order confirmation...
View 8 RepliesSo after eight years my Warn premium hubs have taken a crap and developed major play internally. After speaking to Warn warrenty department and sending videos they will replace them according to the lifetime limited warranty. Problem is they sill not send out new ones until they receive the old ones, so I was told from time i remove mine and send them back and get the new ones it will be two weeks maybe a few days more, there is no snow in the extended forcast and im wondering what damage could occur with me funning the truck everday to work etc with the stub shafts just hanging there?
View 14 RepliesI just purchased an F-350 with manual locking hubs. I am unsure if I can keep these locked in for part time four wheel driving or I need to unlock them each time I go back to two wheel drive?
View 6 Replies