Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F550 - Driver Seat Is Starting To Fall Apart / Replacement
Jun 5, 2013
My Dad has a 2006 F550 Lariat with the grey leather seats, and the drivers seat is starting to fall apart. So my Dad is wanting to replace it. My Dad thinks its from a lot of sliding in and out, and having all kinds of dirt and other stuff on it. It has a big spot torn in the lower left of it and then the armrest is starting to rip as well.
So I was wondering where a good place to get some replacement seats for it was. Definitely leather and grey to match the rear seats since its a crew cab. I don't think it necessarily has to be stock, but something that looks good and still at least somewhat matches the rear and rest of the interior.
Here's some pictures of the seat. Nice hole in the floor mat too. I think some nice plastic ones would work and look much better.
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Had the death wobble a couple of months ago. Changed all shocks, steering stabilizer to bilsteins; new tires (stock), ready lift stabilizer(stock, no lift) had it digitally aligned. All was perfect. Until my new intermittent steering issues. It appears to happen when making a 90 degree turn, say a right or left onto a perpendicular roadway. As truck straightens out, you'd think the front drivers side wheel is going to fall off(you'd think the lugs are missing).
Pull int a parking lot, drive in a few circles, and all back to normal. Can't replicate every time, force for s few days with no issues, then it might happen again. Other intermittent issue is sometimes, again out of no where, truck will pull and track to the right or left. Pull the steering wheel the opposite direction, it'll track the other way. Again, pull int parking lot, do a few figure eight circles and back to normal. Alignment shop and regular mechanic say everything is tight, ball joint look fine.
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The driver's side mirror on my '06 250 (tow, heated, power, signal) got cracked... and of course whoever did it didn't stick around!!! Two questions...
Is it possible to replace just the glass? Or am I looking at replacing the entire unit?
Would you have a part number, or a link to a good online catalog?
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Recently purchased 2006 F-550. Noticed the brakes seemed a bit squishy and weren't stopping the truck as well as I thought they might. Looked under the car and saw this at the right rear tire. Give it to me straight, doc.
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My "new" truck has a sluggish seatbelt on the driver's side. It won't retract all the way.
How do I get to the mechanism to have a look at it or put in a replacement?
The belt on this one comes out of the top of the seat, not from against the door.
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06 F550 w/5r110w. Truck and trans runs great then trans acts like it was shifted into neutral, rpm's flare up and if you don't get your foot out of it the trans will re engage aggressively. Changed the speed sensor on the rear axle, there are no codes, had a trans shop change the filters and fluids then change out all of the solenoids. They tell me its not a trans problem.
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What is the part # for this bottom for an 05' F250 supercab?
I swapped these seats into my OBS truck, but the driver's seat bottom has the typical wear/tear on it and its getting worse.
I have been searching for three days for a replacement bottom cover. I have found them for F150s and the pattern is close but not right. I cannot find them for F250s or F350s as I cannot find the proper part # for the gray DS cover.
This is the tan one: 4c3z-2562900-eaa
How can I pull this up?
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I have a 2005 f250 that has a wander and a clunk what feels like under the drivers seat. The driver side bushing in the radius arm has no dirt and looks like wear on it compared to the passenger side which is completely covered in dirt. My question is, bushing wear out will cause wander and a clunk. Is it hard to replace?
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Ever since January My fuel gauge has been acting up big time. I can have any amount of gas in my tank at any given time and the fuel gauge will fall to empty resulting in the fuel and check engine light coming on. The gauge will then return to its position (it still doesn't read correctly) and the check engine light will stay on. I took it to the ford dealer and they said to replace the entire fuel sending unit assembly. I bought the oem motorcraft fuel sending unit assembly and did it myself. The only problem is, I still have the issue. I'm currently checking fuses and relays, By the way, my truck is a 2004 f250 fx4 5.4
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I'm hoping this might be a "quick fix". Got in the truck the other day and my power driver's seat had no function what so ever. Not a big deal for me as I drive with the seat all the way back but the complaints are starting from my wife so it's time to find a fix.
This is the first F250 I've had so the wiring is a little new to me. I checked the fuse panel and the fuse seemed okay I swapped #9 out for #22 as they are both 30A and I don't need the trailer at this time but still no luck.
Are there any other systems tied into the driver's power seat, any wiring harnesses I should check or perhaps a fuse that is not shown in the owner's manual? My truck is the 2013 Gas F250.
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Ok, so I am trying to get are 99 F550 all fixed up and have a few things to ask.
So we have had the ABS light on now for some time. I had it scanned at O Riley's and the scanner said the abs sensor on the passenger side was faulty. So I replaced that and the light was still on. We had taken the truck to ford to get it checked out for a rear end problem we have been having as some of you may know from a previous post I made.
Well ford said it was the rear sensor on the axle that was causing the abs light to come on. So I replaced that. Still have the abs light on. I disconnected the batteries to try and see if that would reset it and it did not. I hooked up the Scan Gauge II and ran to see if it picked up anything. It said it did not pick up any thing. I still did a code clear but it didn't work. If there a tricky way that you have to get the code cleared off?
2nd I was checking the fluid. I noticed that the tranny fluid is over filled quite a bit. Will this hurt it? Should I drain the fluid to where its at the fill line?
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How to remove the orange cover to replace the bulb in the driver side mirror - tried but worried I'm going to break it...
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OK, so I have the brake pedal downshifting, but there is no real exhaust brake. Can I have one installed, like the latter model 2015 or even the 2016, with the button?
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I have a 2008 f-550 diesel. Had water in fuel. Flushed the entire system. Replaced the fuel filters and injectors but still will not start.
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I'm working on a 2000 7.3 that was running but had no power so we changed out all the injectors and glow plugs and rebuilt the turbo now there is no start ...
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It has a 7.3 bone stock in it. When it is cranking you can hear a relay clicking. it's behind the dash just below the radio. There are 3 relays together 1 big one which is for trailer lights and 2 small ones which i don't know where they go. but i replaced all 3 and i still hear the clicking ONLY when the engine is cranking.
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I have a new 2013 F-550 Lariat 200" WB on order. I can and will increase the combination weight on the truck, to make full use of the 19, 500 gvwr. My question is how much will a current F-550 pull on a 5th wheel/gooseneck style trailer before it becomes dangerous? I plan to set the truck up with an 11ft aluminum Eby flat body, with a Holland FW6000 5th wheel placed under the body. I am considering a 35 or 40 ft flat gooseneck.
The combination weight would be changed based upon the axles I choose to put under the trailer. Two 12k axles will give me 44,000 gcwr, two 15k axles will give me 50,000 gcwr, and two 16k axles would give me a 51,000 gcwr. The truck will be able to carry about 10,000-11,000, the trailer needs to take the rest. I am confident that 44,000 gcwr will not be a problem, but the idea of 50,000, or 51,000 really makes me question safety. So, how much have you hauled with a F-550, and a gooseneck trailer?
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New to me 2012 F550 parking lights will not go off. Battery disconnected now. Touch battery cable parking lights come on.
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I have a 2001 F550 flatbed tow truck with a 7.3 and the ZF 6 trans. i put a Luk clutch flywheel pressure plate new throw out bearing new clutch fork New clutch slave cylinder and master set up. When i push the clutch in it is VERY EASY compared to the way it was before. Ane when you push the clutch in and put it in gear you can hear the clutch disc rubbing on the flywheel and if you lift your foot the thickness of a hair the truck takes off. Also i can't engage my PTO because the clutch is not disengaging all the way. there is No adjustments on this set up. What Now.
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I have a 1999 Ford F550 with a 6.8L V10 and a 4R100 Auto.
I want to run an underhood hydraulic pump, like what a wrecker uses only I want to use it to run a generator under the truck.
How can I get a 6.8 to idle up to 1200 or so? I searched the Body builders guide and it looks as if the idle up is for the 7.3 only.
My truck also is not a 2005 and up like the other posters, who can take advantage of a drive by wire.
Also I doubt my transmission has a PTO cover so I think a generator option using that route is a dead end. What are my options to idle the truck up to 1200?
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After a 7 year love affair with our 2005 6.0L Excursion, we bought another 6.0L today - a 2006 F250 Crew Cab. It came with front buckets/console, and the used car lot (all diesel trucks...) was nice enough to let us swap the seats out with another 2006 F250 Crew Cab on the lot that had the front captains' chairs with the center seat.
Their upholstery guy did the work with the captains' chairs, but for liability reasons they wouldn't bolt the jumpseat in, since the truck we bought didn't have the studs in place. So, they sent it home with us and we're faced with putting it in. No problem, right?
Well... we found the place for the bolts to go, and thought we were home free. BUT... (see photo) - what have we done wrong?? The first photo (driver's side bolt of center seat) is fine, but the passenger side bolt hole is too close to where the front passenger seat needs to bolt in.
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