Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F350 - Replacement Of Front Wheel Hub?
Jul 11, 2016
Question. My Son borrowed my 2006 4-wheel F-350 and broke down in Vermont. 8 hrs from me. Told me he heard some noises from the left front and then the abs light came on. I had him jack up the front and check for bearing play in the left front. Alas, He said between 1/4" and 1/2" of play. I bought the new hub and bearing assembly to drive up there with tomorrow morning. The locking hub will come right off. I just replaced them 4 months ago. I will be bringing a crap load of tools, but anything specific i should bring? I wont have torches so I am hoping the hub will brake free.
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This must have been asked before but I couldn't find any thread about it. Have a 2006 F350 that makes a rattling sound when engaged in front wheel drive. Sounds a bit like a loose ball from a ball bearing (or a small stone) rolling around. What might be causing this?
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Any good info on front brake replacement parts to get better braking out of these beasts? My pads are now needing replacement but I would like to get better performance than that of factory parts....
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I have a 200 f250 v10 srw 4x4.. I've replaced the auto front lockers with warn premium manuals. I cannot get power to the front wheels. The lockers appear fine. I hear the actuator function when I activate 4x4. Whats the possibility of a bad transfer case or front diff and how do i check? I've searched but there seems to be a lot of non-answers.
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Are just the bearings serviceable/replaceable or is the only option to get entire wheel hub assembly?
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So I have to replace the front unit bearings on my 2004 f250 4wd. My question is, which thread pattern I have, fine or coarse? I have read that the early models, 99-02 have coarse threads. Afterwards they are fine. I am going to order online as they are cheaper than the local parts store. I have the Timken part numbers for either thread pattern.
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When in 4x4 and I go to do a 90 deg turn. The steering wheel pushes back to straight and seems like I have to fight it to turn the wheels. What could be causing this? I was in 4x4 Low on a dirt road at first then stopped, put it in Neutral, and turned it back to 4x4 High and then when turning in a parking lot it started doing this.
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I have a 2003 F350 srw 6.0. 4x4. Front driver side wheel bearing went out. Went to the auto parts store got a replacement. Got it all tore apart, put the new one on and the lockout didn't seem to fit right. Is there a difference in wheel bearing assemblies for electronic shift on the fly and regular lockout? I have the electronic shift on the fly lockouts and it had just a little bit of play in it when I put the snap ring back in.
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I just can't seem to make sense of, 2006 f350 6.0 once it's been running for a min or so it will die when brake is pressed, also dies when you turn the wheel. Can't find any rub through or bad wiring.if you up rpm slightly it will not die with brake or steering. Tried removing belt thinking it possibly was a pulp and it doesn't die with the brake or steering but will die when going from drive to park. Thinking possible cps....
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I got a 2001 f350 got a noise in my left front wheel i know its not the wheel bearings, it only makes the noice when the locking hub is unlocked i did jack the the truck up and spun the wheel got a faint grinding noises form what seems like the locking hub so my question is bad locking hub or needle bearing holding the axle shaft??
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I've noticed when I'm towing, on long down hill grades if I touch the brakes I get what feels like a rotor causing the steering wheel to shake. At first it was only mild, but today on a long 6% grade it got really bad. Never does it on a level road, I've tried to duplicate it, only on a long down hill grade, and I'm not getting a pulse in the brake pedal at all, only the shake in the steering wheel. It's probably time to replace the pads anyhow, and I'll check the rotors. What things to look at?? 2006 F350, 6.0 dually 4x4.....
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I drive a 2006 Ford F350 4x4 Crew Cab. I think the radius arm bushings on my truck are bad. I get a clunk going over bumps on the left side in the front end.
I'm assuming it is the bushing in the rear of the radius arm, but I haven't taken it apart yet because I want to have the parts in hand. I ordered a bushing, part number 5C3Z3B203AA. But it looks too small when I hold it up to it. What is the part numbers for the radius arm bushings?
Or am I looking at the wrong thing for the clunking in the front end? I just did the ball joints with Moog both sides top and bottom. The shock bushings look alright. I have replaced the front sway bar bushings thinking that was it. What else could it be?
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I have a 08 F350 CC with the factory fog lights. One of them has burnt out. Do I replace just the bulb or the entire unit? Is there a part number?
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2004 F350 Lariat Crew Cab. My truck has been repeatedly attempted to be broken into through the keyhole. This time they fully punched it through the door, and now i have a hole where the lock should be.
I researched stuff like jimmi-jammers etc, but for the time being.. I am looking just to pick up a set of handles without keyholes. I have remote-less entry and keypad.
Couple questions... Would rear door handles off a crew cab, fit to the fronts? they look the exact same minus the keyhole.. and this would likely be the easiest to find.
Or... Is there any good websites i can take a look at that will manufacture keyless front driver and passenger side handles? They're textured black, and i would like them to match as best as possible.
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2008 F350 6.4 ... So I've been reading all about the spartan tuner throwing the P0088 code, and the ford band aid fix, I guess my question is, I'm going to have my HPFP replaced for peace of mind. Truck has 106,000 miles on it. Will i have an issue at the dealer if I show up with my tuner/exhaust on the truck? I'm not worried about warranty obviously, I just want to know are they going to have to unplug the tuner? Or something, I am just concerned how they'll go about putting the new HPFP on.
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I recently replaced my Ford Factory clutch with a new LUK kit, lever, pivot & hydraulics and I have to say it is absolutely perfect. If you are going to take the time to do the clutch, do it all. While we had it apart, I decided to push up my Up-Pipe replacement and do it while the transmission is out. What takes several hours to do is done in 30 mins this way. As we all know when we start in a job, we see other things and say well while it is apart I may as well do this, and do that. I decided to do the U-joints in the rear shaft. I had marked the shafts prior to removal for orientation but my assistant did not mark all 3 U-joint knuckles when he changed the joints and reinstalled the shaft.
I took the truck out for a drive and starting at about 15 MPH all the way to 60 ( I dared no faster) it was making me nauseous. Today I looked into it, marked current locations and started rotating front and rear joint 180 to no avail. I said lets just rotate the center joint and go from there. as I was pulling the carrier i noticed a HUGE but dull yellow arrow on the short shaft. I decided to look at the rear shaft and found a HUGE but dull yellow arrow 180 degs from the front. It looks like it could have been a factory mark. I repressed the center u-joint so the 2 arrows line up and the vibration went away. I can not express the aggravation this could have caused if not for those arrows. Take the time to properly index the drive shafts, it will save you tons of time and agitation.
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Got a problem with my F350 diesel truck's braking system. I pull a 5th wheel and last trip almost burned my breaks up coming down long hill due to having no breaks on the 5th wheel. Had a problem early on with the lack of trailer brakes and module was replaced under warranty. Bought a new module this time and it did not fix the problem. Have braking power when I use the module brakes (Hand) but not when I hit the foot brakes. Have checked the system with a meter and have good voltage with hand break but not with foot brakes. Have a good meter (voltage) read with hand breaks and faint read with foot brakes applied. Also have a faint pulsing read on test light with no brakes at all just key on.
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The trans temp guage on my '08 F-350. V-10 started acting erratically, and the wrench icon popped up on the display. i crawled under the truck to look for the sending unit and it's lead. i assume that i found the lead. it is encased in a corrugated sleeve, and appears to be a vaccuum type tube and boot connector? the boot still had a small round gray cap plugged into it. it appears that the cap was never glued (go figure) upon assembly. i have tried to reach up on top of the trans to find the sending unit to figure out the best angle of attack. i can barely touch it with the tip of my finger. going with mechanical guages is out of the question at the moment, so i'm wondering can it be driven any distance this way, AND any schmooze tricks developed to get at the sucker without dropping the cross member or exhaust????
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The steering wheel is locked on my 99 F-350. I messed around with the stupid thing for quite a while this evening and it won't budge! I need it to haul hay tomorrow....
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I have a lot of play in my front suspension and steering components. At first I thought it was my old tires, so I had them replaced and that worked, but there is still quite a lot of play. I would describe it at loose steering.
I went to get an alignment and they said they couldn't do it because of too much play in the tie rod end.
So that is going to get replaced. What else is down there, bushing wise, that I should replace to eliminate play and rejuvenate my steering?
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Yesterday while traveling about 30mph and starting into a slight left turn the steering wheel locked, when the brake pedal was applied it was rock hard and would not engage braking resulting in a single vehicle crash, no injuries. 8300 miles...
How would I make Ford aware of this incident and get them involved? Is it likely that such events may have been logged somehow in the computer? The truck is at our collision repair shop waiting for an insurance adjuster to inspect.
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