Where the ICP is located on a 2006 f350? I have a no start condition after the truck warms up, everything else is fine. Started fluid works to crank, I suspect the ICP and /or Orings.
View 4 RepliesOne day after my mechanic replaced the heater core my truck started to misfire after the motor warms up and is under load. No codes and nothing pops up when hooked up to o a scanner. It's been cold in the morning and when I start it up it runs like a top. But after it warms up it start to miss a little, then it gradually gets worse especially when under a load at higher speeds. I thought it was a vacuum hose or something got left unplugged.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2012 Ford F350 I've been looking to install a compressor on. I've poked a hole in the gasket that runs wires through the firewall and cut the tips off of a couple of the accessory wires. Went to go get some more parts and now the truck won't start! The lights and radio turn on when the car is turned on but the starter doesn't even click when I try to start it. What should I look at?
View 7 Repliesi have a 01 Ford F-350 7.3L quite and won't start I have replaced the ipr valve and sensor and the crank sensor and the truck still won't start...
View 1 RepliesWe just bought a 2000 F350 knowing it has some issues. The #5 fuse (generator/secondary) under the hood consistently blows fuses the second it's inserted, meaning there's a dead short. Truck will crank but not start. As well, theres a 5 amp fuse under the dash, which when inserted, keeps the instrument cluster on as if the key was on, even with no key in the barrel. We cannot hear the fuel pump running, the fuel reset switch is fine, all ignition wires at the column are showing 12 volts at the right times. What could be wrong? I'm a 12 volt specialist, but not a ford tech.
View 6 RepliesI recently bought a 2003 f350 7.3, I ordered a tuner for it and tried installing it, at one point while the ECM was still connected I did something and it sparked. Then the powertrain relay (302) started clicking really fast. It clicked in the on position. I switched it with another and it was also clicking. So since I sparke the ECM I figured I messed it up. I ordered another one and it's doing the same thing. Then I pulled fuse 45 (which was good) and put it back in. When I turned truck to on position it wouldn't click anymore, but it still won't start... What it could be? OV ruled out the ECM, powertrain relay (302) and fuse 45, I don't know what else to check.
View 2 RepliesI had some more time to mess around with my truck. The 4r100 shifts great until the truck warms up. After about 10 to 15 minutes of driving it starts. With the gear selector in D and under acceleration it will shift at about 2k rpm's and will be in third gear by 25mph. If I climb to higher speeds it will only shift out of O/D when I get my foot into it. It will not downshift into any gears until I am almost completely stopped. It will downshift and hold gears great if I use the column to shift. I'm stumped. No CEL or flashing O/D light.
Things I have checked:
TPS
VSS
All connections to the transmission
Set tune back to stock
Transmission fluid & level
Will the transmission still store codes even if the O/D light has never flashed?
When it is cold the windows & radio will not work until the truck warms up?
View 3 RepliesIt's an 04 F350 6.8L This past winter when it was cold I would start it up and it would rock forward and bounce back as is you shifted in to park while rolling. Now that it's warmed up it won't jerk forward but the whole body shakes only at start up. As much as I like the idea of of the raw torque being so powerful the truck twists with power I don't think that's the case.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 with 189,000 miles. Im having some very bad issues that im trying to fix. The truck idles rough, with fluctuating RPM's. In certain speed reanges it also shakes and runs rough. If I turn the overdrive off the shaking pretty much stops, but it still accelerates pretty slowly. There is also a whistling noise from the front of the truck until the engine warms up, someone told me it sounds like a bad intake manifold? Does that sound right? What could be going on with my truck? All spark plugs and coil packs have been replaced, as well as the fuel injector rails.
View 2 RepliesI just bought me a 2006 Ford F350 Lariat. A sticker in front of the radiator says says that my truck is equipped with remote start. How would I go about using it? I only have one fob. If it is in fact something that I can utilize I have seen guys on youtube program their fob to do it by clicking three times.
View 2 RepliesI went to start my 2006 F350 6.0 this morning. 20 degrees outside. It nearly turned over, then it appeared that the batteries would not support another start - a slowing of the pre-engine start revving....
So I let it sit a while, now it won't start at all. When I try to start it, the dashboard flashes, clicking sounds occur and even after pulling out the keys, the needles on the gauges shake for a few seconds.
Is this more a battery issue or an alternator issue?
So here's the deal, crank no start its getting fuel. Has base oil pressure and i put a ficm on that test good with a voltage meter key on engine off and cranking. I haven't hand any trouble finding info on this issue so. We can keep picking away. Just cant find anything about this.
A buddy of mine who has been trying to figure it out for me, Got it to start using a starting fluid. And it would run if someone was pushing the gas peddle but wouldn't idle. Or start without the starting fluid.
2009 Ford F350 Diesel ....
I am trying to find my ABS controller because I have an intermittent ABS light on the dash and the code says something about signal loss on more than one wheel. So I assume I have bad wiring or a loose plug somewhere.
I found this (pic attached) on the left hand side under (or a little behind) drivers seat mounted under truck on the frame rail. I think it is the control module but when I tested wiring I found no continuity to any of the ABS wheel sensors.
Is this the control module?
02 f350 5.4L Where is the body control module located?
View 1 RepliesI'm just a shade tree mechanic try to diagnose a hot crank no start condition on my 2006 F-350 6.0 that I purchased second hand about six months ago. I first took it to a diesel shop to have them fix it and the mechanic told me that the stand pipes and dummy plugs needed changing out but couldn't tell me 100% if that would fix the hot no start problem.. I have been reading a lot about this problem and it seems that the snap to connect fitting on the HPOP is the most common problem on these trucks. It seemed easy enough to do so I went after it only to find it was already replaced with the updated part.
I went ahead and changed it anyway but it obviously didn't work. So today I pressurized the system through the ICP port with my small harbor freight compressor up to 80 psi and forced the IPR valve closed with 12v. I then listened for a leak in the passenger side valve cover with a hose stuck in the oil fill cap, the driver side cover from some drain hole under the air filter housing and in the oil filter housing. I could hear a mild hissing from the driver side and the oil filter housing but it was clearly louder from the oil fill on the passenger side. This leads me to believe I have a top seal leak from one of the injectors on the passenger side, but not 100% sure. Should I be hearing anything at all from the driver side and from the oil filter housing if its a bad seal in the passenger side?
Another problem I just found out I have seems like maybe fuel in the oil. I done a oil change this week after 3500 miles since last change and drained out five gallons of oil!! The oil seemed really thin. My coolant level is still good so the only thing I can think of is fuel dilution. Could this possibly be the same o ring or injector that is causing my hpo leak or something else? Will a bubble or balloon test diagnose this?
I bought a cheap OBD2 reader that works on my Ipad with a app called Dashcommand so I can see what codes were stored. The codes are...
P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Flow Insufficient Detected (EGR has been deleted)
P0528-Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0670-Glow Plug Control Circuit/Open
P0683-Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Communication Circuit
P2290-Injection Control Pressure Too Low
So far my thoughts are to replace the injector and nipple cup seals to take care of the hpo leak. Once I have the valve cover off, clean the injectors real good and cycle the fuel pump with turning the key on and inspect the injectors for a fuel leak. Is there a better way than this?
Can't find my manual and getting ready to haul camper in an hour...no trailer parking lamp power on truckside plug. No blown fuse but heard there may be a relay.
View 1 RepliesOk truck shut down wouldn't start back. Put fuel filter o. Frame cranks but won't start. Was told has high pressure oil leak in engine?
View 8 RepliesThe 5amp fuse 15, (Stop lite switch, GEM, PCM, 4WABS, Brake shift Interlock, Cluster 7 PCM-Keep Alive memory), is drawing 2.7 amps with key off.
The battery has gone dead two times overnight. The truck will start and run. I don't know where to proceed from this point to isolate the problem.
I am putting work lights and LED warning lights on the back rack of the 2014 F350 diesel in work. Where are the wires for the upfitter switches, and are they prewired into the fuse box, or do i have to hook them up?
View 7 Replies