Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F350 - No Crank - Engine Sensor Data / Trans Temp Error
Apr 20, 2015
I have an '06 F350 dually with a 6.0 diesel. I bought this used about 5 years ago and for the most part have loved it. i would always smile on the inside when i heard people bash the 6.0...i thought i got lucky....until today.
140k miles. recent oil change. all is swell...until this morning. Stick in key and turn it. glow plug indicator comes on...all lights come on for a few second....wrench, abs, dtc etc....wrench shuts off...glow plug light comes on...4 or 5 seconds later wrench light comes back on....turn key and NO CRANK.
All fuses are fine...starter cranks if i jump the solenoid...but it won't start. Miles to empty and everything else is just dashes hit the OBD and it says "engine sensor data error"/ "trans temp error" ...
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I have an isspro sensor that I need to install on my 4r100. I have it all installed except for the actual sending unit. My question is where is the best place to put it?
I've watched multiple YouTube videos and it seems a lot of people use the test port on the driver side above the linkage. I found out the hard way that it is a very poor choice of location. A lot of people say that the best way is to drop the pan drill a hole and weld in the bung? I was wondering would it be possible to put it on the "out" line on the transmission oil headed to the cooler? 01 f-350 7.3
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I have noticed my trans temp gauge needle is dead center of the gauge even on a cold start. I thought my sensor was under the pan so I pulled it and did not see any sensor at all. Is there a external sensor?
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The trans temp guage on my '08 F-350. V-10 started acting erratically, and the wrench icon popped up on the display. i crawled under the truck to look for the sending unit and it's lead. i assume that i found the lead. it is encased in a corrugated sleeve, and appears to be a vaccuum type tube and boot connector? the boot still had a small round gray cap plugged into it. it appears that the cap was never glued (go figure) upon assembly. i have tried to reach up on top of the trans to find the sending unit to figure out the best angle of attack. i can barely touch it with the tip of my finger. going with mechanical guages is out of the question at the moment, so i'm wondering can it be driven any distance this way, AND any schmooze tricks developed to get at the sucker without dropping the cross member or exhaust????
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I replaced the sensor on top of the water pump and the gauge still doesn't work. I tested the gauge by unplugging and grounding out the wire and the gauge goes all the way up. What I can try next. I didn't get a Motorcraft sensor so I'm going to go get one of those tomorrow hoping the duralast wasn't correct even though it looked 98 percent identical to the original. 7.3 lite diesel.
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2005 V-10... I've found some info on the "fuel level data error" but thought there must be more on this. In the last month or so I get the error on the message center and the fuel gauge goes to E. Happened a couple times here and there and then the CEL has come on. Have nto been able to get the CEL to go out because it happens too often now.
Have tried a couple bottles of Techron because that is suppose to fix it but no luck after about 150 miles. Can't find any loose wires/connectors. Am ready to give up and drop the tank. Is the sensor separate or part of the pump assy? Also don't see alot on dropping the tank on SDs. Any tips?
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So here's the deal, crank no start its getting fuel. Has base oil pressure and i put a ficm on that test good with a voltage meter key on engine off and cranking. I haven't hand any trouble finding info on this issue so. We can keep picking away. Just cant find anything about this.
A buddy of mine who has been trying to figure it out for me, Got it to start using a starting fluid. And it would run if someone was pushing the gas peddle but wouldn't idle. Or start without the starting fluid.
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Truck: 2001Ford F350 5.4 auto 4x4
Issue: Engine seems to free rev over 2500 RPMs. Barely hits 50 MPH. Revs fine in park, no power in gear. At 1/4 throttle it will move, but sluggish at best. Once you get around 2500 RPMs it stops accelerating and just revs. Does this in every gear, and gets worse the faster you go. feels like its stuck inbetween gears almost. No CEL's
Replaced: MAF, TPS, Trans fluid and filter, fuel filter, cleaned intake system, fuel system treatment, O2 sensors. Trans fluid was dark, but no burnt smell.
I'm about to pull the exhaust and look for a clogged cat.
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I'm just a shade tree mechanic try to diagnose a hot crank no start condition on my 2006 F-350 6.0 that I purchased second hand about six months ago. I first took it to a diesel shop to have them fix it and the mechanic told me that the stand pipes and dummy plugs needed changing out but couldn't tell me 100% if that would fix the hot no start problem.. I have been reading a lot about this problem and it seems that the snap to connect fitting on the HPOP is the most common problem on these trucks. It seemed easy enough to do so I went after it only to find it was already replaced with the updated part.
I went ahead and changed it anyway but it obviously didn't work. So today I pressurized the system through the ICP port with my small harbor freight compressor up to 80 psi and forced the IPR valve closed with 12v. I then listened for a leak in the passenger side valve cover with a hose stuck in the oil fill cap, the driver side cover from some drain hole under the air filter housing and in the oil filter housing. I could hear a mild hissing from the driver side and the oil filter housing but it was clearly louder from the oil fill on the passenger side. This leads me to believe I have a top seal leak from one of the injectors on the passenger side, but not 100% sure. Should I be hearing anything at all from the driver side and from the oil filter housing if its a bad seal in the passenger side?
Another problem I just found out I have seems like maybe fuel in the oil. I done a oil change this week after 3500 miles since last change and drained out five gallons of oil!! The oil seemed really thin. My coolant level is still good so the only thing I can think of is fuel dilution. Could this possibly be the same o ring or injector that is causing my hpo leak or something else? Will a bubble or balloon test diagnose this?
I bought a cheap OBD2 reader that works on my Ipad with a app called Dashcommand so I can see what codes were stored. The codes are...
P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Flow Insufficient Detected (EGR has been deleted)
P0528-Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0670-Glow Plug Control Circuit/Open
P0683-Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Communication Circuit
P2290-Injection Control Pressure Too Low
So far my thoughts are to replace the injector and nipple cup seals to take care of the hpo leak. Once I have the valve cover off, clean the injectors real good and cycle the fuel pump with turning the key on and inspect the injectors for a fuel leak. Is there a better way than this?
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1999 F350 SD ... Yesterday when goosin it to get on the highway my rig threw up a code quickly and engine temp started to increase. Once temp got in the red, oil pressure got a little figgity. The code was for the ICP(p1212), so I cleaned the plug and made sure coolant and oil were topped. This morning she ran barely over normal temp (stock gauge). This afternoon same thing as yesterday but without the code. When I let off of the accelerator temp goes down. I just got married so I have little funds to throw at a shop.
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I have noticed that in the past 1-2 months my trans probably has just get to 150*. Even on warm/hot days. Lately its just been 120-140 all day every day.
Can this cause any problems? It used to go up to 150-170 when warm, now it takes a hot day to get there.
I assume its fine, but just checking because I have, admittedly, neglected my trans fluid.
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I have a 16 with a 6.2. Truck has less than 1k on it but the tranny seems to run hot. What do these run at?
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I have a 2006 f-350 6.0 and i went to fill up my truck with diesel. After that the truck did not start. Currently has the code p2285 - injector control pressure sensor circuit low. I tried disconnecting sensor, still no start.
I have the torque pro app and another 6.0 that I use for comparison. Check power at ficm 48 volt, flp 11.5v, FVP 11.5v. Hpop while cranking shows 1400 psi. removed oil filter and see low pressure oil ok, fills up reservoir. ipr at crank about 65%. fuel filter full of fuel.
Replaced the dummy plug on passenger side because originally hpop was very low psi 12. after replacement it went up to 1400 on cranking. What should I be looking at next, should I be removing ipr? should i be looking at crank sensor or cam sensor? Just installed 2 new batteries also because my dad kept cranking the truck until it died.
Checked to make sure fuel cut off relay not triggered, Ok. The truck has been having long cranks before it died. Also right now the injector cycling is 10 seconds long while on my other 6.0 it is about 4.
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I put in the X codes and it doesn't show. The icon is on the screen but no reading for temp shows up. The truck is a 2008 with the 3V V10. Maybe verify the codes for me?
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I recently purchased a ScanGuage II and installed it in our '09 F-250 SD 5.4 slush-a-matic with 4.30's and 31 1/2" tires. This unit is primarily used for towing and I wanted to keep an eye on the trans fluid temp. By the way, I really like the ScanGuage II. It gives me real time fuel mileage, coolant temp and accurate trans fluid temp, among many other things.
My question for you guys that pull your trucks hard on a regular basis is this, what is the maximum trans fluid temp that I should allow the slush-a-matic to rise to? I towed our 9000# 5ver 200 miles one way to Indy for the 500 over Memorial Day weekend and the highest TFT was around 180 to 185 max. It was under 180 most of the time.
What are the upper parameters of TFT that his tranny will endure and still live a long trouble free life?
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My dad has a 2006 F-250 5.4 3v that spun a rod bearing at 107,383 miles. He's never been thrilled with the performance of it (told him he should have gotten the 6.0 when he bought the truck new, but why listen to a 15 yr old ). We've been throwing around a couple different ideas for engine swaps since the 5.4 is dead. We scored a 5.4 2V Lightning engine, but after trying to figure out transmission controllers or if we'd be able to tune the stock PCM for the 2v, we've put the project on hold.
Recently, I've been trying to convince him to do a diesel swap over the L-motor. I have a friend selling a cheap 99 7.3 with trans, PCM, harness, intercooler, piping and other misc stuff. Would that harness generally be plug and play with the body of the 06? Would it be more worthwhile to try to find a 6.0 from 05-07 and swap everything over?
I've also been considering a Cummins swap, although I haven't gone much past looking at complete engines on eBay and Craigslist. Would this be the better route, and just get a standalone controller for the 5R110?
So I'm looking for other's opinions. Should we go 7.3, 6.0 or Cummins? Should we stick with gas over diesel? Try to make the Lightning motor work? Or just go back with a stock 5.4 3V? I should say, he won't sell the truck for whatever reason, so he's not worried about resale or anything. We're in Michigan, so we don't have to worry about emissions. And we're fairly mechanically inclined, so I'm not too worried about doing the swaps, however my knowledge on diesels is limited.
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I have had the truck sitting for almost 2 weeks now and live in the Midwest. It is about 35F outside today and finally got to drive it. When I started the truck and let it warm up for about 3 minutes I backed out and started driving. in total the engine ran 6- 8 minutes and the transmission temp moved off cold but the engine was still reading cold. Is this normal in this truck? Mine is a 5.4 gasser with the 3.73 rear.
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I was wondering what is the normal range of trans temp in this truck? I was driving home last night and after a couple burst of wot , getting on the freeway, I checked the info display and it showed 200 degrees for Trans fluid. Truck was unloaded with 80 degree Temps.Also I guess how accurate is the dash Guage? does this seem like higher than normal Temps? 15 f350 cc sb 11 k miles ,gas motor. i aslo drove another couple miles coasting around and the temp never dropped past 196 .
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I have a 1999 f350 v10 stock truck. It has plenty of power when it's cold out or raining or I'm on backrooms or highways but if I drive through town on a hot day the transmission kicks bad I have changed the fluid and filter, it also seems to shift at a high rpm from 2nd to 3rd. Unless I you let off quick and go back on kinda like engaging a 2 speed rear end. Does it need a bigger trans cooler or is the trans shot
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2002 F350 Super Duty 7.3 Diesel.Transmission trouble. Came off interstate - took foot off throttle at yield and hit gas as turn was clear. Did it fast and felt like hit wall. Immediately lost transmission engagement. Trans did not reengage until below 20 MPH. Tried to speed up and disengaged at 20 to 25MPH - just free wheel - engine wine. Went to 1st gear and would come up normally. Shift to 2nd and could get up to 30MPH and probably higher - didn't push. Shift to drive and trans disengage. No trans fluid leakage and level looks good and clean. What to look for? 126K miles.
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I need a replacement driver side door, towing mirror for a 2011 Ford F250 SuperDuty with turn signal, heated, electrically adjustable manual-extend and manual fold options. The truck VIN number is 1FT7X2B67BEC96261. The truck also has an Outside-Air-Temperature indication which is what I'm not sure about. It is my understanding that the Outside-Air-Temperature sensor may be in the side mirror. Looking for any info on the temperature sensor located on this truck? I found an aftermarket mirror while I can not afford Ford. However, the aftermarket mirror ad says it does not have Outside-Air-Temperature and I would like to keep that working.
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