Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F350 - Instrument Cluster / Radio And Power Windows Go Dead Intermittently
Jul 21, 2015
I just bought this 2006 f350 lariat. The instrument cluster, radio, pwr windows (and prob other things) will go dead intermittently. No rime or reason, some days no prob, others, several time a day. Always come back by itself, cycling the power has no effect. I if it is shut down during a no power episode it will not run right till the power comes back to the dash, radio, windows. Looking on line seems to be a common problem with the "retained power accessory relay" circuit in the instrument cluster. I found nothing on a DIY fix...
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I have a 2000 f350 XLT SD v10 gas. The radio works, the heater works and the power windows work too. It's just the cluster. Lights work in the cluster it's the gauges are dead truck starts fine.
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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So, on my drive home from the pub tonight, my clusters went dead, then came back on, then died again. This behavior repeated for the 5 mile drive home. In addition, I believe the lights weren't working as well. The engine was still running, so I simply continued on home and parked for the night. The only thing I can think of might be the problem is the fact that I replaced the serpentine belt the day before yesterday. Is it possible that the alternator is not charging the battery properly and that is what my problem is?
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I have 2002 F250 4x4 with 5.4 V8. It has auto locking hubs. If I haven't used the 4wd lately I have to manually lock the hubs in, right side sticks, so I have to use pliers to lock into place. After a few times it works in auto fine. Anyway my issue. I went to use my 4wd so I manually locked the hubs, hopped in the truck and flipped it into 4wd. When I did the instrument cluster died. Radio, power windows and locks, turn signals all work. I just don't have any speedo, tach, fuel gauge, water temp, battery, no odometer. All went blank. I checked some of the fuses that I thought it could be from the owners manual but still no luck.
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I pushed the Tow/Haul button on the gear shift and my instrument cluster went DEAD. Have checked the 3 fuses labeled instrument panel (F4,F35,F41) and they look OK.
2003 F250 6L diesel .....
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I have 2010 f350 and everything works while key is turned on. When you crank the truck I lose power to windows, radio, mirrors, blinkers and instrument panel. When I drive the truck and give it gas everything works. Let off the gas and I lose everything. Sometimes after about 20 minutes of hey driving it will stay on. Also when first starting the truck the gear selector won't let you out it in gear. After about 30 seconds it will go
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Have a F350 V10 super duty the power windows intermittently stop working along with the radio. I have replaced the acc relay key switch under a recommendation. I looked over the fuse panel under the dash for corrosion. Still can't find problem. It was worse this past summer than this winter. When it goes bad after driving 30 miles it will start working.
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I'm having a little problem with my F350. I've had it for about a month now and the cluster had no problems or whatsoever. Then, I drove it today and I noticed that the instrument cluster is not working at all. The lights work, but the gauges wouldn't move. When I turn the key before starting it the chime is beeping faster than it usually did before and it wouldn't shut off unless I close the door. It also only indicates the airbag and battery light. I checked all the fuses and they were good especially #15 or #16 can't remember it right now.
I don't know if its related, but this past saturday I was messing with the overhead instrument cluster for the gas mileage and all that. I soldered some of the relays back on and that was it. I started the truck after I did all that, but everything was still working. It's been bugging me all day today.
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My radio, power windows and map lights all at the same time work intermittently. I have changed the relay. No blown fuses. Sometimes they all work and then for no reason that I can tell, they all go off. right before they all come back on (which you never know when it will happen) I hear a click in our around the fuse panel.
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I just bought a 2007 f350 lariat and my radio, pwr Windows and the 2 lights beside the dome light don't work either... it looks like there was a new relay put in recently.... Is this some kind of wiring problem or where to start looking..or what might be my problem... I am clueless when it comes to wiring .
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I have a 2001 F350 and instrument cluster lights will not work. Fuses are good and the gauges still work just not the lights.
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I have a 2005 F 350 with a 6.0 Diesel! My heat quit on my wife and I the other night! I replaced some fuses and started the truck to make sure the heat was working and it was! So I thought while I am here I should replace some bulbs in the cluster that were out!
I took the cluster out, looked at the bulbs and they looked oK so I put them back in and put the dash back together! When I went to start the truck once I turned the switch on my gauges and lights started flickering on and off fast and all it will do is just click when I try to start it! I just had it running 15 minutes before this!
I went through all the fuses and if I take one of the relays out and turn the switch on all the lights and gauges seem to work right but when I try to start it, nothing! I replaced the relay and it starts flickering again! I had the relay checked at Napa and they said it was good! The relay was for the Powertrain module!
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I was using a fluke to test voltage at the connector for the driver visor mirror light when I accidentally crossed leads and heard a pop. Now my Radio, windows, moonroof and sliding rear window are dead. I have checked the 30 amp service (601 fuse), the delay acc fuse (42), delay acc relay, and of course the power windows and radio fuses. None of which are bad and none of which seem to have any power. Is there another relay I should be checking? I have read about the battery saver relay in the instrument cluster but have not ruled it out yet. My dome lights, instrument lights all work. The truck also has a Viper remote start.
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I have a 2001 1.8t Passat that won't start. The story starts about 6 months ago with occasionally (maybe once a week) finding the clock and trip odometer reset. Figured It would eventually get better or worse. Then once last week I lost power to the instruments completely when driving, The tach and speedometer dropped to zero and returned to normal in a second. Yesterday on the way to work that happened again several times, but it never effected the drive-ability at all. After work , went to leave and the dash doesn't light up and is dead silent when turning the key even the clock and odometer are blank ,the Traction control light is the only response on the cluser. It won't crank, the power windows and sunroof also won't work. Most everything else is normal, blower motor, headlights and interior lights, blinkers, door locks, all work, radio powers on.
Here's what I've done so far. Removed the negative battery cable to see if a reset would work. No change. Checked every fuse I could find, no bad fuses. Replaced the Ignition switch, no change. Have 12.05 V on the red starter wire in the crank position. After replacing the ignition switch, the radio now displays SAFE --- 0001 and doesn't do anything else (not sure if that means anything). I have reseated all the relays under the hood, and under the dash. No change. Wiggled every part of the wiring harness I could get access to to see if that changed anything. No change.
I'm now expecting the solution to be the wiring to the CCM, the instrument cluster, or the CCM itself. Going to try push starting it tomorrow, If that fails I'll have it towed home and get back to taking things apart Friday night.
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Over the last few years my power windows in my '99 Super Duty have started working intermittently. The problem seems to be with both the main controls on the drivers door and the control on the passenger door. Sometimes both of them have problems operating, sometimes just one. Does not make a lot of sense. Could I have bad switches or do I need to check something else?
Rowland '99 Ford Super Duty 7.3 Diesel Dually
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2003 f350 5.4L auto 4x4. The lights stopped working on the dash so now I can't see the speedo at night. All the dummy lights and gauges work. I checked the 3 fuses for the cluster from the owners manual. All 3 are good. Here's the thing, fuse 35, Checked for continuity, my meter read 192 not all zero's like it should have. I pulled the fuse and rechecked it, it was good.
I replaced it anyway. rechecked with fuse in, I get 192 again. pulled fuse again, checked both sides of socket for voltage and I'm getting 12.64 volts on both sides of the socket. Even though the fuse reads good, could this be the reason my cluster isn't lighting up? Is there a fuse on the back of the cluster?
I see a lot of threads on the cluster lights being out but its usually no tail lights or power windows or other things, and if there's a solution nobody is posting it. Mine is simply no lights on dash or I should say (No Back lighting). All my lights inside and outside work.
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I have an 06 350 that at one time the dash went out and I lost pw,radio, all gauges.I replaced the dash and all works, but now the radio stays on after I pull the key and lock the doors. It does not have key fob plus the dome light wont come on when door is opened. Radio stays on for about 20 min if I don't turn it off .
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I am really hoping that my instrument cluster in not working because my alternator went out at the same time. I really hope they are connected somehow. I really need a wiring diagram for this one. Just got the truck last week and have been taking care of the little things to get it fixed up and make it my own. my new rear step bumper came in today. I will be dropping off the the alternator for a rebuild tomorrow. So looking for a wiring diagram?
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Just the other day I fired the truck up and turned the lights on and my headlights came on but my gauges didn't light up. I figured I probably had a blown fuse or something so I didn't bother checking it immediately and decided to drive home anyways and on the way home I got a phone call saying that my running lights weren't working either. Front or rear. Still have brake lights and turn signals but no running lights. I've checked all the fuses and none of them are blown and I'm going nuts trying to figure out what is wrong before I get a ticket. I'm tired of lightly holding the brake as I pass by cops at night. What could be causing this issue?
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05 6.0L xlt if that matters. Occasionally, I'll be driving and the speedometer will stick at a certain speed as I slow down. So yesterday it happened again on my way to work, but it was worse. I noticed that as I was driving, the needle was stuck at 0mph. Then a minute later as I was accelerating from a stop, It began working again. A few minutes later, as I was slowing down for a red light, it was stuck at 55mph. As I accelerate again, the needle moves as if 55mph is 0mph. Then it stuck at 85. And as I drive, the needle is just pegged well past 100mph, even though, I'm doing 65-70 max. I have Torque Pro, and all the info from the computer is correct, I can accurately measure my speed from there. Turning the truck off does not reset the needle or anything. It still remains stuck with the truck off, which makes me think it's something mechanical. Eventually, the needle usually lets go and begins working normally for a while.
In addition to the speedo issue, which has happened multiple times, The tachometer was working correctly, then all of a sudden was showing that the RPMs were about 800-1000 lower than normal. When idling, the needle was at zero. When at 65, the needle was around 1000-1100, when it normally reads about 1900. When I left work last night, the tach was fine, but the speedo was still stuck at 85.
It doesn't do it very often, it's just frustrating when it does. All the other gauges seem to function normally. The temp gauges still move, although, I know that means pretty much nothing. The boost gauge is good too.
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