Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F350 - Hooking Up High Idle With Upfitter Switches
Sep 8, 2005
I would like to do the high idle mod with my 2006 F-350 using the upfitter switches. I've seen a couple of threads about this but they are not real clear to me and don't mention the 2006.
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I want to install a set of upfitter switches but my truck didn't come with them...so I bought the switches and the relay/wire harness as well...I cannot find any good information on where to mount the relay and where an extra plug on that harness goes too. I have found the wires that attach and go through the firewall but I am not sure where the rest of this mess goes...my truck did not come with the wire harness already installed...
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I just got a 15 f250 with the console and nav system but it didn't come with the upfitter switches.
I picked these up and got a copy of the .pdf for the installation, but I'm finding it hard to follow for where the relay and box should install. I ran the wire up to the upfitter switch location and can even find a nice spot to connect the grounding wire.
I can't for the life of me figure out where the box installs and where the wiring harness taps into the main harness. Need a photo of where your box is installed and where it taps into the main harness?
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How hard is it to install the upfitter switches and the fog lights? Is it all plug and play?
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I have a 2010 F250 and wanted to power a dash camera using the upfitter switches. I purchased a 12volt wire, but am unsure on where to wire it so that it will only power up when the ignition is on..
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2006 f350 DRW King Ranch diesel with 94,000 miles on it. When I shift in to 4x4 the AC switches to defrost and then takes 2 min to return to the vents. I imagine this is a vacuum leak issue. Where to start hunting? I pulled the dash for another install and all lines were connected. I will say the vacuum pump stays on longer than normal when the ignition is first activated.
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This has been beaten to death but all the old threads I read are for 2011 to present SDs so I wanted to make sure I can add these to my 2008 before I spend $ on the switches. Anything I should look out for on the install? Once they are installed I would like to add front and rear strobes along with a roof light for plowing.
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I have the ford upfitter switches in my 07 f350 and i had two flashing lights wired to switch 4 (10 amps) for snow plowing. The lights were LED and shouldn't have drawn much power but suddenly the lights stopped working because thers no power going to the fourth switch. They work on all the other switches. What could be the problem?
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I am putting work lights and LED warning lights on the back rack of the 2014 F350 diesel in work. Where are the wires for the upfitter switches, and are they prewired into the fuse box, or do i have to hook them up?
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New too my Ford, but anyway it's -10 Celsius. My trucks been idling for a few hours and probably will all day because of my job. Usually idles about 600rpm normally. So today the oil temp was about 80degrees Celsius. Then the truck idled up too about 1000rpm for a while. If I touch the gas it goes back to normal idle speed but then starts idling up again after 30 sec. What temp does the truck want too keep it at?
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I've got this 05 F250 5.4 liter V-8 w/ 118K miles on it. I've noticed a significant reduction in power after hooking up my 24' enclosed car hauler to move some furniture to a new house. I mean this has turned into a real dog.
It has a new serpentine belt, a new fuel filter in last 4 months, new air filter, recently started using Lucas Upper Cylinder lube w/ injector cleaner.
It does have a cracked R exhaust manifold which is being replaced in two weeks but it's not too loud at start up.
I mentioned this loss of power while have the belt replaced this morning and he thought without looking at it, it could be a failed camshaft sensor.
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I currently have Aux2 hooked up to my on-board compressor and it works like a charm...so I'd like to think I know how the wiring works for the upfitters haha.
This weekend I installed an electronic solenoid valve for my slip-tank so I can fuel up on the go. The valve is 110V AC and had two wiring leads of the same color so I assumed either/or could be used for power and the other for ground. I wired it all up running a power lead from Aux3 back to the valve and grounded the other wire to the body. To my surprise...no power! Can a 110V AC valve not be used in this application or is my wiring simply messed up/not making contact?
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I've checked the fuses, the lights are on on the switches, but I have no power at the wires under the hood. I'm adding lights and would like to use those switches..
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Recently purchased a 2013 F350 w/upfitters. Figured Ford would have made access to the stubs easier by now (previous was an 05 6.0 ) and of course not. A bit more challenging. What parts of the dash do I attack and how. As the dealer is willing to charge only 40 bucks to connect any wires I run to the vicinity, I figure there's a slam dunk sequence for access.
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Sure would be convenient when hauling the 5er.
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I've got a 2000 F350 crew cab with a camper I bought in Chile and I'm going to be driving it from the tip of south america back to the US. It's a 9 month epic family road trip. It'll involve crossing the Andes several times and going over 15,000 ft. There are roads up to 19,500 ft in various places.
My question is am I going to have problems with the altitude? What can i do about it? I've got another truck which is a unimog, it's slow as hell but has a special kind of booster gas you can inject in to the engine to get it started in very cold weather and at high altitude. I chose the F350 for the truck instead of the unimog because a unimog is slow as hell (think 40mph max speed), but it handles extreme conditions well.
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1999 F350 Crewcab 4x4 dually V10. Fan switch only works on High. All fuses and relays look Good. Is it a bad speed control switch? What can it be?
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I have a miss at high rpms.. I pulled this engine, manual trans, and 4x4 axle and put them in my F350 Majestic motorhome. 156,000 miles on the engine. Slightly dusted engine with good compression 375-400 (cranking and corrected for altitude). Has a little bit of a long start.
No smoke on start up unless 10 degrees or colder
No smoke when pulling either.
Glowplugs ...Good
GPR... Good
Checked resistance from IDM to injectors ...Good
History of some ether for starting before I got my hands on it. I have AE with the ford enhancement. But I am new to working on a powerstroke and new to AE.
ICP ...new
CPS...new
Oil ....new
EBP...new
Installed a pressure gauge to the drivers side upper port on my fuel bowl:
60 psi at idle
55 psi at WOT 2500-3000 rpms under a load
HPOP stabilized pressure is 2750 @ 40% duty cycle
Truck still misses (semi-intermittently) at higher rpm with a load.
Rechecked codes KOEO: None present
I visually inspected valve movement while running (idle). Did the buzz test when cold.... All injectors sounded the same when tested individually.
Did a cct when not completely warm:
P0266
p0272
Repeated the test at normal operating temperature:
P0266
Torque values on rocker arms bolts and injector holds are good. Fuel quality isn't an issue since this problem has remained for 5 tanks of fuel. What I should do next?
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2013 F350 passenger headlight bulb keeps blowing both high and low? Replaced 2 times now?
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I have a 2005 f350 6.0 has 585000. Installed new hpop and lpop and new ipr .pressured oil system with air don't hear any leaks. After truck done started then put truck together no start same problem as before. No oil pressure on dash. All checks goqd except not enough high pressure.
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2003 f350 sd 2wd 5.4 auto cab chasis 40 gal rear tank (home depot truck//for real)
Wouldn't start/towed home/ran until it was parked ...
Bad fuel pump//replaced//new fuel filter ...
Starts but won't idle//will run if feathering throttle...
Code's po443/po1451/po1747/po755/po743 never had these codes before
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