I have a 2006 350 6.0l check engine light came on today truck is running normal except the fuel gauge and mile to empty gauges keep changing when I turn the truck off. What this could be?
View 1 RepliesI literally just purchased a "new" 06 F350 and have had it just over a month. I bought it from a used car place in Salt Lake City and have put roughly 250 miles on it, it has 105k on it. While having 1 sled in the bed and towing a 1-place snowmobile trailer up a 8% grade my check engine light lit up. Little back story, there was a slight hiccup that I started to realize it had about a few days after purchasing it, would kind of buck a few times under normal acceleration around to 40-60 mph not every time just occasionally. Been meaning to take it to a friend to have it looked at, just been fairly busy.
Now when I was driving it back home (~8-10 miles, almost exclusively downhill) at stop light and accelerating from 0mph it would not prime the boost, I was getting almost no power until I hit 2000 rpm then all of a sudden things were fine turbo would engage I was able to drive normally. It hasn't moved in 2 days as I will not drive it until I know what is wrong with it. In doing a little research I read about turbo veins being stuck open, ignition problems, and a few other things that might pertain to what is going on with my truck. I have a buddy coming in the morning tomorrow to pull some codes with a scanner so I will have more information here shortly but I just wanted to get the conversation started on this.
I bought a 06 f350 Friday night with 132,000 miles. No lights when we test drove or left the dealership. About 20 miles down the road the check engine light came on, truck ran fine so I continued the trip home no problem. Saturday night I had the codes check and it said a blocked EGR passage. Yesterday after a decent amount of driving a wrench light started popping on after 20-30 minutes of driving. But no memory code. Would that be related to the blocked EGR? Will cleaning the EGR fix both lights or what?
View 7 Replies2001 F-350 4x4, 5.4 automatic.
Where to start , check engine light is on. Nothing seems wrong , trucks running good , nothing happened , just the light. I kinda like the truck so I would like to find out what its issue is?
I have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
View 9 RepliesI own a 2011 F350 dually with the 6.7 in it. It has 136000 on it and zero mods. I was driving over the weekend and the traction control light, brake light, and the ABS lights all came on and the information center displayed Check Brake System. We were towing our 5th wheel when this happened. The brakes on the pickup and trailer both work and we have no problems stopping. About every 15 minutes or so this message pops up and it chimes again. My insight is reading a U0418 code. We are stopped now and the code and alert message is still popping up without the trailer. All fluid levels are where they should be.
We are also getting a check engine light and my Insight is reading the codes P2020 and P20E8.
I can reset the codes dealing with the reductant leakage and low pressure, but not the codes dealing with the brake system.
I have had my pickup in to 2 different ford dealers for these issues and they cannot find anything wrong. I did notice that this time when the Check Brake system warning appeared that the pick up started lunging a bit, we lost power to the stereo and the windshield wipers came on. Our fuel mileage has remained the same and the pickup still tows like a beast.
Just got a new-to-me 2006 F350 Super Duty XL with the 5.4L V8 and 5-speed auto. I haven't had a full-size truck in a few years and forgot what I was missing!
When I bought the truck, all gauges were inoperative except for the fuel and oil pressure gauges. The previous owner told me they would work intermittently and at some point just stopped. The usual warning lights - ABS, CEL, and "the wrench" - were all lit, and from Googling and searching this forum, it looked like an easy fix - probably a pinched or frayed shifter wire, or possibly a cluster repair.
I took it home and did a self test on the gauges. The "sweep gauges" made everything swing fine, so I was thinking it might not be a problem in the cluster. I pulled the steering column apart, removed the Tow/Haul overdrive wire from the plastic retainer, re-ran it with some slack, taped the end where it comes out of the shifter (even though I saw no breaks/frays) cleaned the connections, gave it a dollop of dielectric grease in the connector, and put it all back together. VOILA - GAUGES and no warning lights! You can imagine the touchdown dance in the driveway.
Fast forward a few weeks and....back to no gauges and warning lights lit. Figuring the overdrive wire had finally given up, I ordered and installed a replacement shifter figuring it was an easy and cheap fix. No joy - same problem. Tried cleaning and reseating the connection. Nothing. I've searched FTE like mad and it seems like 95% of the problems are with the wire exiting the shifter fraying and/or blowing a fuse, but this is a new shifter. I've also checked fuses #2, #24, #33, #36, #41, and #45 (some referenced #19 but I don't have a fuse there). All were unbroken - just put them back in and reseated firmly. I did a code pull via OBD2 and have a "rear catalytic efficiency degraded" code...not sure if that's related, but figured I just had an exhaust issue.
I may take the dash cover off and try to clean and reset the connections on the gauge cluster, as well as do the same for the PCM. Is it possible that the tow/haul overdrive wire to the PCM (where the shifter connects to) is bad? How to test and/or replace if it comes up bad?
I have a 2006 Ford F 350 Super Duty ABS light comes on stays on till I shut the truck off and restart it this happens about once or twice a week
View 2 Replies2001 f350 7.3 diesel and I come up with the codes for upper and lower dual generator fault. I have only one alternator not the dual.. I checked the gauge and it is running at 14 consistently. But the service engine soon light keeps coming on...I clear them and they come right back... Alternator is only 2 years old and not a rmf..
View 1 RepliesPulled into work and the truck was running fine then i got out and shut it off and went to start it again to move it 5 minutes later and it would start and misfire and chug and the wrench light came on as well as check engine and abs. I replaced the throttle body motor with the doorman part and I'm installing a new electronic pedal today as well.
The weird part is the chugging as i replaced all plugs and coil packs, plugs are champion double platinum. when all this started it was raining pretty hard out side I've cleaned all plugs with compressed air and used dietetic grease on most until i ran out. Truck is a 2006 f250 with 3v 5.4 automatic... Truck is my work truck and i am stumped on this .....could cam sensors cause the same issues? What about egr valve?
1. About march 1, my check engine light came on- took it to oreileys for a scan and said Speed Sensor A (cannot remember code), I was not overly concerned to fix it very very busy.
*Drove about 800 miles no further issues except the annoying CE light*
2. ABS comes on a few days ago
3. Today the truck, 4 miles from home decides it wont let RPM's get above 2500, and 40mph. It slightly hard shifted once.
Truck has 97000 miles and is a 1999 V10 has NEVER had any tranny shifting issues or engine issues....
4. Check tranny fluid when we get home it does not smell burnt and is red- its not even that warm...
I have read a couple places that a VSS can cause this? But I never noticed my speedometer acting up EXCEPT for the day the CE light came on- which there was a lot of ice and tires were spinning and speedometer said 0.
I have an '06 F350 dually with a 6.0 diesel. I bought this used about 5 years ago and for the most part have loved it. i would always smile on the inside when i heard people bash the 6.0...i thought i got lucky....until today.
140k miles. recent oil change. all is swell...until this morning. Stick in key and turn it. glow plug indicator comes on...all lights come on for a few second....wrench, abs, dtc etc....wrench shuts off...glow plug light comes on...4 or 5 seconds later wrench light comes back on....turn key and NO CRANK.
All fuses are fine...starter cranks if i jump the solenoid...but it won't start. Miles to empty and everything else is just dashes hit the OBD and it says "engine sensor data error"/ "trans temp error" ...
Solid yellow engine light. Sounds and drives fine. Is it always emissions or can it be something bad? I was going to leave sunday for a 2 month trip pulling the RV. Now stuck waiting for wednesday for dealership.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2011 f250 with the 6.2 liter gas engine. Lost power and the check engine light came on. I pulled the codes and it is a camshaft position sensor and 4 other codes for misfire on all cylinder for that bank. I can't find any info on where the sensor is located or how to replace it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 F-550 XL truck, I had a problem with an open injector4 and was forced to replace the engine, later, I had a problem while installing an OLEP kit, misplaced the hose and killed the engine (...i know... ) so, I changed 3/4 of the engine, just mechanical parts and reused the wires and cables, now the check engine light is ON with an oil pressure error, replaced the sensor and the error remains, replaced the computer and guess what ...again, the same error. What might be going on?...
View 1 RepliesReplaced HPFP 38,000 miles ago. Truck began going in limp mode without engine light, wrench came on in dash, gave codes for brake switch, anti-theft, some other weird codes. Had those codes cleared, ran for while then water separator came on, drained the water out, came back on. Read some forums, so I removed and cleaned the housing, cleaned off the sensor. Had code cleared and ran good for about a week. Then guess what engine light comes on, limp mode.
Went to Auto Zone, pulled code P0088. This truck runs awesome until limp mode. No other problems. I take it to the ford dealer, scanner pulled P0088 and the water separator code again. I have read alot of remarks about this P0088 code. Can there be another cause for pulling this code, only 38,000 miles later. I had them do the TSB 12-07-07 but I have also read it can only be done if the P0088 is the only code. I just really feel there is an underlying issue with these 6.4's.
Just replaced the alternator in my 1993 Ford F250. How do I reset my check engine light? It keeps coming on after I drive for roughly 5 to 10 minutes.
View 7 Replies1-11-11 built F250 with the 6.2. 45K miles. Took it to my local HD truck shop to have the code read. The reader said "Evap pressure sensor switch malfunction", "vac above pressure limit wouldn't bleed". He cleared it and it has now come back.
1. Where is said switch located? Is this something I can do as I'm a seasoned wrench but I'm not dropping the tank in my driveway in the winter.
2. Is it in the tank or outside the tank?
3. Has there been any TSBs or recalls on this before I attempt to repair?
So yesterday I decided to wash my truck and after taking care of that I took it for a short drive and the tranny started acting funny. Check engine light comes on and the code is P0500 . It calls for a VSS but I cant locate it. Also the fact that it did after washing the truck is making me think its a wiring issue... F250 SD 5.4 4x4 ....
View 5 RepliesMy 2014 F-250 is having a repeat problem with an intermittent cell engine light. About 10000 miles ago it happened, and they changed out the egr cooler. Saying it was gummed up with soot. Problem just started up again. Light will stay on for about 3 or 4 restarts then sir off on its own. It's this a known issue with the 6.7? Is there a way to prevent it?
View 7 RepliesI own a 2000 Ford F-250 5.4 Automatic. It tows my 5th wheel trailer very good. On our last trip it suddenly experienced the "check engine light" effect.
The light turns on randomly and either goes of after a couple of seconds or it doesn't go on when I restart the engine.It is mainly annoying, but when in towing it really hurts, because the engine switches into an emergency mode and stalls.
I read that the engine uses only 4 cylinders. I read many articles on the web about that light, but I couldn't find a solution. The thing is I brought the car to several repair shops but none read a code from the computer.
I think it's not a real fault but a misreading or maybe a cable that's grounding? The problem is, I can't bring the car to a repair shop, because there is nothing wrong with the car. How can I find the source of the problem?