I have a 2006 F350 CCLB FX4. Is there a way to allow the running/parking lights to come on when I open the door like my dad's 2012? I don't have any roof/clearance lights yet, I'm a little on the fence about drilling holes in my roof but it seems the truck should have them, especially being an F350.
View 14 RepliesI have a new to me 05 F350 dually with 6.0. When I open the door with the key the alarm goes off and the truck won't start. How do I shut this off so I can get in the truck with the key. I can't just leave the door unlocked all the time. It has the key less entry, but I have not set new numbers yet, and if I give the keys to a valet, I don't want to give them the door code too.
View 14 Replies2012 F-250. As said, when I open the doors the parking lights come on. How can I disable this? Likewise can I disable the interior lights coming on when I remove the key but do not open door?
View 12 RepliesI have a 1999 F350 and the passenger side front door suddenly will not open with the inner handle but it will open if I roll down the window and open it from the outside. The inside seems like it is locked but the locks are all working fine and all the other doors are working just fine .....
View 2 RepliesNo straight answers found yet. It's just the running lights that get stuck on.
I don't have auto lights, and after a period of a minute or 2 the lights pop off. There must be a relay sticking somewhere.
Looking for a diagram that shows where the relay for running lights is located?
Using alarm or turning off head lights my running lights will not turn off. I am thinking it has something to do with alarm. I unplugged headligths and dimmer switch and still stays on. Where the relay is or the alarm box is located its on a 2006 F250 4X4....
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 F-350. I got a code p2623 ipr circuit open. I ordered a new one and currently waiting on it. I pulled the old one and the screen has been replaced already. How often do these valves go bad? Is there anything else I should check?
View 6 RepliesI have an 05 f350. I cannot get trailer running lights to work. All other lights work. Trailer brakes work, battery charge for dump trailer. I've checked fuses under dash and under hood. Everything checks out. I'm Stumped.
View 6 Replies2002 f350 5.4L
No rear running lights or brake lights
No third brake lights
Headlights work
No signals or hazard.
I have power to the multifunction switch when I use a jumper wire to bypass the switch I can make the lights come on depending on which slot I put it in. I replaced the multifunction switch twice just to see if I got a new bad one the first time, but to no avail. I cant run my truck a night without the lights.
Two nights ago I got into the truck at night and realized the interior lights don't come on. I tried the rocker switch it will only dim the dash gauges now. It did work before guessing its a bad rocker switch. I can turn them on manually front and back....
View 5 RepliesI have a F350 2000 crew cab srw with 7.3 diesel. I removed the HID that was installed by previous owner. The factory wiring harness was still intact but now I don't have running lights or dash lights. I still have head lights, brake lights and blinkers... I replaced the head light units with factory replacements......
View 3 RepliesI just bought a 2006 F250 Lariat. The previous owner did not have a manual for the vehicle. When I open a door the dome light does not come on. Is it supposed to come on in that vehicle? The exterior light above the rear window that illuminates the bed of the truck does come on when a door is opened so it makes me think that there is a wiring issue with the dome light. I can light the dome lamps with the switches on the lamp housing so I know that it is working and the bulbs are good.
View 8 Replies2006 350 6.0, on startup the high and low 4x4 and brake lights come on the dash with a constant tone for a minute or two then stop.
View 2 RepliesJust got a new-to-me 2006 F350 Super Duty XL with the 5.4L V8 and 5-speed auto. I haven't had a full-size truck in a few years and forgot what I was missing!
When I bought the truck, all gauges were inoperative except for the fuel and oil pressure gauges. The previous owner told me they would work intermittently and at some point just stopped. The usual warning lights - ABS, CEL, and "the wrench" - were all lit, and from Googling and searching this forum, it looked like an easy fix - probably a pinched or frayed shifter wire, or possibly a cluster repair.
I took it home and did a self test on the gauges. The "sweep gauges" made everything swing fine, so I was thinking it might not be a problem in the cluster. I pulled the steering column apart, removed the Tow/Haul overdrive wire from the plastic retainer, re-ran it with some slack, taped the end where it comes out of the shifter (even though I saw no breaks/frays) cleaned the connections, gave it a dollop of dielectric grease in the connector, and put it all back together. VOILA - GAUGES and no warning lights! You can imagine the touchdown dance in the driveway.
Fast forward a few weeks and....back to no gauges and warning lights lit. Figuring the overdrive wire had finally given up, I ordered and installed a replacement shifter figuring it was an easy and cheap fix. No joy - same problem. Tried cleaning and reseating the connection. Nothing. I've searched FTE like mad and it seems like 95% of the problems are with the wire exiting the shifter fraying and/or blowing a fuse, but this is a new shifter. I've also checked fuses #2, #24, #33, #36, #41, and #45 (some referenced #19 but I don't have a fuse there). All were unbroken - just put them back in and reseated firmly. I did a code pull via OBD2 and have a "rear catalytic efficiency degraded" code...not sure if that's related, but figured I just had an exhaust issue.
I may take the dash cover off and try to clean and reset the connections on the gauge cluster, as well as do the same for the PCM. Is it possible that the tow/haul overdrive wire to the PCM (where the shifter connects to) is bad? How to test and/or replace if it comes up bad?
My sons 2006 F350 brake lights and rear turn signals quit working. When the headlights are on, all the lights operate but the rear turn signals and brake lights do not nor do the emergency flashers. The front signals work but flash very rapidly. Although I'm not an auto electrician, I'm fairly mechanically inclined but the fact that the front signals work, the rear don't and all lights work as lights, just not as turn signals or brake lights.
View 4 RepliesI was wondering if there was a DIY mod so I can have my foglights on with my parking lights and my high beams..
View 7 RepliesI'm working on an '05 F350 King Ranch dually, and I'm pretty sure the pb cable is stretched. I recently replaced the shoes in the pb assembly and adjusted the tension while I was in there, but it still barely holds. My next culprit sounds like a stretched cable, and I have a complete set for a new one, but I'm having a hell of a time getting the old one out. The link that holds the front and intermediate cables together won't pry open with any tool I have, and I've broken two drill bits trying to drill out the nub holding the front cable in.
View 5 RepliesI have a new 2015 F350 XLT. For the life of me I cannot open the lid on the center arm rest. I have read the manual, and I can't open the lid. This is my 5th Super Duty with the last being a 2010. So you would think this would be a no brainer. I can pull on the handle and its not opening. Pry the damn thing open? Is there a hidden lock? Hidden treasure?
View 14 Repliesall lights work except parking lights/tail lights. have blue lights under trk had to cut wire by COPS when got dark had no tail light cut wire had shorted taped off changed fuse 15 amp slot 30 10 amp slot 40 still no tail lights. Is their a relay or module before fuse box or after or what could be wrong
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 F-350 Diesel 4x4 crew cab 8ft bed dually 7.3 diesel 6 speed. The issue is that the parking brake pedal is extremely hard to push. One day it pushed down and ratcheted into a locked position as normal and the next day I couldn't push it more than an inch down. I have rear disc brakes with internal drums in the rotors for the parking brake assembly. I replaced the shoes and hardware (which were fine) and I still have the same issue. I removed the front single cable from where it splits into the two rear ones and the foot pedal depresses smoothly and with the touch of a finger with no load on it. What else is it? The only other thing is one of the rear cables unless I am missing something?
View 5 RepliesAlright, so here's what I've got: 2002 Ford F-350 7.3L - Unmodified, Stock, no chip, no tuner, 130K miles, been run with off-road diesel most of its life as a farm truck.
Here's what it's doing: Serious misfire in cylinders 4 and 6. At idle, mild miss. Throttle from 0 to 50 percent, runs well. Throttle from 50 percent to 100 percent, heavy miss, chugging, white smoke out the exhaust.
Here's what we've done so far:
New UVC Harnesses with updated pigtails.
Cleaned Fuel Filter Mixing screens.
Cleaned out fuel tank.
Cleaned bowl.
Changed Fuel Filter.
Changed IDMs
Changed Crank Sensor.
Inspected injectors while running to see if oil is pumping (it is).
No improvement. Where to go from here. Pulled codes, and it says Cylinder #4 and #6 High to Low Side open. We don't know what to do at this point.