Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F350 - AC Pump Cycles When Off
Jun 22, 2017
20 06 F350 6.0l ... Recently noticed when my climate control selector switch is on the off position, the a/c vacuum pump cycles for a few seconds then stops, then cycles, then stops.. Does this until it's changed to a different setting. Pulled the connector behind the selector and plugged the black hose and it stopped. Re-connected it and could hear site leaking so I kinked the white hose and it stopped. I have also lost my MAX a/c that is now defaulting to defrost. Is there a part number just got the hose selector, or a way to fix the existing one?
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My 2011 f-350 6.2l cold starts hard, it cranks through 2 cycles sometimes before it fires, then it might stall. Sometimes it stalls if I put it into drive or reverse before its warmed up. It has also misfired on one or several cylinders during startup. It has also misfired while driving. It has never stalled when driving. I have replaced the canister purge valve, I have done a full tune up with all factory plugs. All with no change to how it starts. My next step is a Pcv valve, I have one coming from ford today.
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I have a 2007 f-350 with the 5.4. The fuel pump is not running, have voltage at the inertia switch but none at the pump. Where the pump driver module is located at?
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I have a 2004 F-350 diesel. My vent selector is always on defrost so I suspected a broken hose but traced all out and all seem to be fine. I disconnected the line coming from the pump to the tank and no vacuum. The pump doesn't seem to be running but it's hard to tell with the engine noise and vibration. What tells the pump to run and how can I bench check it?
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I have a 1999 f350 with the 5.4l engine. I have no power to the fuel pump or fuel pump relay. I have battery voltage to the pcm relay. I don't know what else to test because I don't have a proper wiring diagram.
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2003 f350 5.4... Is the fuel pump relay behind the radio? Under hood? Or built in the fuse panel and unserviceable?
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I have a 2008 F350 FX4 with the 6.4l diesel, a couple weeks ago I was reprogramming the ecm and noticed the vacuum pump was running and wouldn't stop, so after a bunch of reading and testing i changed the solenoid vacuum valve. I tested all the vacuum lines and found no leaks.
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The water pump on my 2015 350 (6.2L) failed this morning and the dealer says it needs to be replaced. What might have caused it?
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I have a 2001 f350 v10 that has been giving me fits. has 88000 miles. cranks and starts when cold or fuel pressure is below 40 psi. SES light will flash when it stalls and fuel pressure goes from 30 while running to 40 and the fuel pump runs continuously when this happens and truck will not start. replaced crank sensor and fuel pump was changed about two months ago. if I relieve fuel pressure it will start and run for short time then stall and fuel pump stays on. all fuses are good. I am at a loss.
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2002 - f250... I originally posted this issue in July of '03. Nothing has changed.
1. At max ac, regardless of how hot it is, the ac clutch cycles due to low pressure once the cabin temp reaches about 78 degrees. This is not acceptable or expected in my opinion.
2. I have run extensive tests, done this for years, and the conclusion is that there is too much pressure drop in the evaporator. I'm seeing 5-7 psi drop measured using a Fluke digital temp probe, insulating the probe tip around the pipe. Compare outlet of orifice tube several as far away from orifice as possible and comparing to outlet temp of evaporator where it comes out of the plastic shrowd. Convert temp to pressure.
I've seen many posts over the years of people not happy with '99 to '04 ford truck ac operation at cruising speed. I have confirmed that the compressor is cycling way too much to cool the cab down. I even ran an experiment where I completely blocked the condensor to raise the head pressure and the compressor still cycked at 1500 rpm's with the cab above 75 degrees on a 90+ degree day.
My next step is to blow out the evaporator and see how much oil and junk I get out of it. I'm also considering taking the evaporator out and trimming the rubber gasket that is around it. It is blocking about an inch of the coil face all the way around.
My conclusion still is that the evaporator just isn't loading up enough as if it's partially clogged. There is only about 2 psi drop between the outlet of the evaporator and the compressor.
The compressor cuts out at 21 psi so the low pressure cutout switch is working properly.
What should I use to flush the evaporator out? Will mineral spirits do it as long as I blow it out real well and make sure I get all of it out? Also wondering if I should blow out the condensor thinking maybe there is something clogging it up.
In spite of some folks on this forum saying it is normal for the compressor to cycle at cruising speed, that is a correct statement depending on many factors. In my case, the cycling is not normal or expected. I have also tried:
1. VOV
2. Larger orifice
3. 14 oz charge over what the sticker says
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I have 1700 miles on my truck and the A/C cycles between cold and warm air. I have taken it to 2 Ford dealers and they agree there is something wrong but their tests are apparently up to Ford specs. They logged complaints with Ford and they were told this was by design with the new trucks and it was normal for the compressor to constantly cycle. New 2013??
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I am off to work tomorrow 800 Mile drive and I cant get this thing out of 4X4 Low. Tried driving (inching) back and forth. Got front end up on jacks to try to free up driveline... Is there any way to Manually put in 2WD. I just don't have time to run to town and get parts (new switching motor) if that is what the issue is?
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I just bought me a 2006 Ford F350 Lariat. A sticker in front of the radiator says says that my truck is equipped with remote start. How would I go about using it? I only have one fob. If it is in fact something that I can utilize I have seen guys on youtube program their fob to do it by clicking three times.
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I have an 06 350 that at one time the dash went out and I lost pw,radio, all gauges.I replaced the dash and all works, but now the radio stays on after I pull the key and lock the doors. It does not have key fob plus the dome light wont come on when door is opened. Radio stays on for about 20 min if I don't turn it off .
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In my '06 diesel with climate control I'm trying to figure out why it won't blow cold air and went to the internet to get the procedure to run the EATC diagnostics. Thing is, it wont run. I have the later EATC that has symbols on the face, not words. With the truck on and climate control OFF, I've tried pressing each button together with OFF, followed within 2 seconds by AUTO and it just turns on.
Specifically the lower vent symbol plus OFF followed by AUTO and the defrost symbol plus OFF, followed by the AUTO button. Is there something I'm missing or doing wrong? Also, is there a vacuum function controlled by the aux vacuum pump and valves found on the diesel trucks that could cause this malfunction?
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Trucks compressor kicks on and off and won't stay on no cold air at all do i have a leak ? The truck came whit a new canister that mounts in front of the air box could it be that?
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Will a bumper off a 2008 F350 fit on my 2006 F350?
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I have a 2006 Ford F 350 Super Duty ABS light comes on stays on till I shut the truck off and restart it this happens about once or twice a week
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I've noticed that my 06 f350 will pump the ABS when pulling in muddy spots, mostly in 4x4? It will even start to cook the pads after a bit of spinning. I'm not doing any serious off-road stuff, just trying to pull random farm equipment/trailers. Do these trucks have some sort of traction control that I don't know about or dose my ABS think I have my foot on the brake all the time?
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When I put my 06 f350 in 4x4 my ac defaults to defrost. I assume this means a vacuum leak. My question is, is the white tube supposed to be open for air intake or plugged off with something?
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I bought a 2006 F250 Super Duty about 3 months ago, and it's been doing fine. I backed it into the shed yesterday after work, and noticed a little while later, a small puddle of fluid under the front. I crawled under and looked up...the entire steering pump is wet and dripping. I thought at first it was engine oil coming down from above, but it seems to be steering fluid (or whatever is in the steering reservoir). Clear looking fluid/oil.
I've read about high-pressure hose leaks...exactly where is that hose? Is it the one that is nearly against the pulley on the bottom? Where the fluid could be coming from?
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