Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F250 V10 - Drive Train Disengaged While Towing The Trailer
Jul 23, 2014
I have a 2006 f250 superduty crew cab longbed with the v10 gas motor. it has 201000 miles on it and towed great up until last month. I was towing a 5000lb trailer down the interstate at around 68mph,suddenly it was like the drive train disengaged and the motor had nothing left, check engine light on but no overheat condition or lack of oil pressure. we put a new fuel filter and pump on and maf, took trailer out again and same problem, pulled to the side and turned off, immediately restarted and ran fine. It has a cat not cleaning code in it now!
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My 99 f250 ran hot while towing my travel trailer when the fan clutch gave up. ever since iv been noticing coolant loss and pressure in the day tank.ive changed the water pump,radiator. day tank and cap plus the thermostat.
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Having trouble with a shutter upon take off in there drive train. It only happens when I am going straight. It does not do it when I am turning or anything. I just bought the truck used sat. It has around 18000 miles on it. I haven't had a chance to put a load on it yet to see if it does it then.
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Where I can find a good used or a good deal on a new factory trailer brake controller to fit a 2006 F250 Diesel Truck?
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I have a 2010 f-450 with 87K miles. 6.4 engine, auto trans, 4wd, and 4.11 rear. All seems fine in the earlier gears....in the later gears...at around 40mph...there's a very noticable shudder...enough to cause you to slow it down...since the shudder shakes the truck...then at about 35mph...it stops. repeat the speeds...shudder repeats.
Trans fluid is clear and all vehicle fluids and filters have been changed during the 4000 miles I have owned the truck....with the correct fluids, filters, and additives. There's also what sounds like a coasting whirling noise in the torque converter area while in neutral....which may or may not be related.
The last time all was normal...a bang .....as if I ran over a cinder block (which I did not) occurred...leading me to believe a bolt or part sheared. There is no metal in the magnetic drain plug of the tranny filter.
There are no codes indicated other than ODBC drive cycle incomplete. I do not see any obvious damage on any of the universal joints...
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I have a 2006 F250 and my 7pin and 4 pin connectors are just hanging loose. I'm not sure what happened to the factory bracket. What is the part number for this bracket? Also, where does it mount to? I looked under the truck and couldnt tell where the factory one mounts.
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So on my 2003 F250 SCLB 4x4, I I was driving 70 or 80 miles to Huron in Ohio, to pick up a boat for a buddy with my truck. On the way up I heard a new clattering noise coming from the suspension or drive train, and we couldn't figure out what it was. After picking up the boat and coming back home without a problem, I looked under the truck and couldn't see any U-joints loose, But I saw that my right rear backing plate was disintegrated and gone. I took the truck to the shop and they said that the noise I'm hearing is the guts of the emergency brake pads and pins bouncing around in there when I drive and that my rear wheel could lock up at any time.
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Have a 2001 f350 that runs great until you hook a trailer to it. Once a trailer is hooked to it and you are on a slight incline (and I mean slight) it will not go into D.. It's like it gets stuck in N.. Have to jam it into 1 to get it to go.. Once level again it will go back to D... Truck has 177k miles on it.
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We have a 99 F250 193,000 miles with a 5.4 and a 5 speed manual with 3:73 gears and we tow a camper that weighs empty 6700 lbs. I knew something was off when we were bringing it home, there was no real umph in the motor. It wouldn't get past 55 in 5th gear on the express way, and just felt as though it was gonna blow up. Its a new to us truck and on paper it should tow this easily. We have a couple of trips under our belt now, and nothing has really changed. With gear and goodies I dont think we're even talking 7500 lbs. I like the truck, and don't really want to get rid of it. With in reason what should I expect to be able to tow and what can I do to better the situation.
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I have a 2006 F250 Super Duty w/ turbo Diesel. Took to dealership for "hopping" feeling when turning sharp. Was told that 4 wheel drive solenoid was bad. Where this solenoid is located? I know I can fix but want to know where it is located.
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I am wondering IF THERE ARE ANY CONNECTIONS WITH TOWING AND THE ABS LIGHT coming on? I just did 360 mile round trip on I84 and I 81 in western NY and eastern PA with decent hill climbs (some with 6% or so grades) - think coal country. I was pulling 8,000 or so pounds (trailer with a jeep on it).
On the way out, the ABS light came on. I pulled into a rest stop and shut her down for a bit. I had been driving on this terrain for the better part of 2 hours. I restarted and the ABS light turned off for the balance of the trip. It was cold (in the 20's) outside. On the return trip 2 days later, the same thing happened after 90 minutes. I stopped again and restarted the trip which turned off the light. This time, the light came back on 10 or so minutes later.
This is the only occasion when my ABS light has come on.
2005 F250 Crew Cab SuperDuty 6.0L
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My 2014 f250 4x4 crew cab with 6.2l gasser only gets about 7.5-8 mpg at 65 mph while pulling my 27' bumper pull travel trailer. I know that thing is basically a wall trapping the air but is there anything I can do to gain a couple mpg more? I can average about 15 mpg at 65 mph without the trailer on the highway.
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When I hook a trailer to my '04 F-250 the parking lights stay on. The lights on the truck are not on. I pulled the fuse for the towing lights and they will go out. Pulled what I believe to be the relay according to the owners manual and they still stay on. I have to unplug the trailer every time I stop for any period of time.
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I have a 2005 Ford F-250. I have checked power to the rear harness and all is good except for the tail/running lights.
Is there a fuse for the tail lights? I have checked the manual and don't see one called out. And the relays under the hood are labeled stop lights/turn signals and those are working fine.
I will see if I can trace the brown wire from the rear harness backwards, but it may be a simple fuse.
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Any info if the "Aux" terminal on the trailer harness wiring on '01 F250s is for reverse lighting? I'd like to put some on my stock trailer. Also, is the "12v" terminal feed switch operated or hot always?
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I have a 2005 ford f250 with the factory installed brake controller and towing package,until recently all was well,I tow a fairly large travel trailer and last time I hooked the trailer to the truck I noticed the running lights on the trailer were lit, I checked to make sure that I did not have the parking lights turned on or the headlights. I did find posts about the running lights not working and was surprised to find there is a relay somewhere on the central junction fuse block that was integral to the cfb and not user serviceable. Could my problem be that this relay failed in the closed position or am I not going in the right direction in my quest to find this problem. Also looking for a diagram of where this relay is located on the central junction fuse block? I would also consider doing a work around solution rather than having to replace the entire fuse block.
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2016 F250 6.7L 4x4
I getting some tranny noise when towing on incline from a complete stop. When I slowly press the gas pedal I hear grinding noise. If i press the gas more my truck starts to move and the noise goes away. It doesnt happen all the time. This started right after my 1000 miles recommended break in before towing per ford manual.
My truck now has 2800 miles and the grinding noise occurs intermediately regular driving. Mostly on steep incline or decline. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet because I cant recreate the issue all the time.
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I have (2) 2014 f250's both have given the trailer disconnected message randomly from the day they were new. Dealer says everything is with in specification. I just live with it now but something must be wrong with the design. Only does it when no trailer is connected an might be worse when it rains. Might have to hit the ok button every 10 minutes so on bad days.
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So the other day 2/3/2014 my dad and I went out during the snow storm for the people that needed assistance. That day I pulled a 95' RWD dually with a 4 car open trailer and pushed 4 people from one location. Then after I went to assist the tractor trailer driver. My truck is a 2002 F250 super duty 5.4L with 4:10 gears. I got him unstuck then pulled him a 1/2 mile up a hill.
Pulling a stuck semi out of the snow - YouTube .....
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I tow a 5th wheel with my 2014 F-250 that has an factory TBC. I just installed Electric over Hydraulic disc brakes on my 5th wheel and was trying to see if there was a setting I needed to change on the TBC to tell it that is now E/H versus E. In the Information section of the dashboard display it talks about the controller actuating electric drum brakes but the manual talks about it being able to do electric AND E/H. What I need to do here...if anything?
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2010 F250 Lariat, cab and a half, PSD. 5600 miles.
Sunday I started the pickup and received "trailer brake module fault" in the message center. I wasn't pulling so wasn't too concerned - hit the reset and continued on.
Sunday night I started the pickup again and received the same message followed by "check brake system". I also lost illuminated gear selection, the traction control active symbol was displayed and the traction control "off" (PB) was illuminated. After several attempts it reset, everything returned to normal and I was able to get home without incident.
Monday morning it wouldn't start. It indicated "trailer brake module fault", "check brake system", traction control active and off, no gear indication, the odometer indicated "-------" and it did not react to the key in the start position.
Tuesday morning I attempted to start and it was the same as the previous attempt. I noticed that the theft prevention appeared active (flashing) so I removed the key, locked the doors, unlocked the doors, tried again - no joy.
I kept trying while holding my mouth in different positions and finally by the grace of God it fired. I delivered it to the dealer.
The dealer called yesterday afternoon and reported that everything is a result of a bad trailer brake module. The new one is to arrive today, they will install and everything will be peachy.
I asked if they could just unplug it and reprogram the truck to believe it never had one - the service writer said it can't be done, different piece parts on trucks with or without trailer brakes.
I really have no choice but to push the "I believe" button and carry on but I am slightly concerned. The fact that the trailer brake module can cause catastrophic failure doesn't seem too cool, I don't have a real warm and fuzzy feeling associated with venturing far from pavement, reliable communication or alternative transportation.
In the meantime I suggest that no one take "trailer brake module failure" lightly.
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