I'm having trouble disconnecting the transmission lines to replace them. I can't get them off. I have the tool. Can I replace the fittings in the radiator?.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford F250 V-10 Superduty and recently I had a transmission cooler line start to leak. I ordered replacement lines and the tool for the quick disconnect. The line that's leaking is from the radiator to the quick disconnect. I was able to replace the one line, however the second line (problem area) has been a nightmare. The line cracked right at the quick disconnect fitting.
The hard line is tight in the fitting and corroded. broke the tool trying to remove from disconnect. The line is flush with the quick disconnect. How to get that out of the fitting? or another method of fix? Its a hard 1/2 line going into connect crimped to rubber line going to transmission.
So I'm away from home on vacation also away from my tools. Any ways my front drivers side line busted almost causing me to crash earlier today in my 2006 F250 6.0 diesel 4x4. So basically my question is: what tools are needed to do this job? I've already picked up the part now tomorrow morning I will be changing the part...
View 2 RepliesI am replacing the head gaskets on a 2006 Ford F250 6.0 .... I have heard that I should replace the head bolts with studs. Do I torque the studs just like the bolts?
View 5 RepliesThe driver's side mirror on my '06 250 (tow, heated, power, signal) got cracked... and of course whoever did it didn't stick around!!! Two questions...
Is it possible to replace just the glass? Or am I looking at replacing the entire unit?
Would you have a part number, or a link to a good online catalog?
I pulled the trans to replace the clutch and now I cannot get the trans to line back up! I am using a trans jack then two floor jacks with a 4x4 across them to support the transfer case. I am about four inches from the block and either side is either 2 inches high or low. The truck is 1999 f250 7.3 4wd.
View 10 RepliesOK, so I ordered in the new lines and have them. BUT my problem is snaking the factory transmission line out from under the truck. I have pictures to show my struggles.
How do I pull this:
Out of here???
Towards the front of the motor
Front passenger side cab corner
Replacing these lines? I don't care about breaking the old one, but I still need to find a way to install the new one.
I have replaced both the transmission lines except the one that connects the two. It is the one near the top of the transmission that is about a foot long and goes from the fitting of the one transmission line to the other fitting for the other line. My questions is how do I remove it? It seems to be permanently affixed to the fittings, so those it come attached to new fittings?
View 2 Repliesso while replacing the rear brake lines in my 2001 F-250. / 5.4, the flex line that drops from the frame bolts to the axle through the axle breather threaded vent line. The friggin thing crumbled on me and now I can't find a replacement for it. Where I can get it or what it's actual name / part number is so I can call the Ford dealer and hope it's not obsoleted?
View 3 RepliesMy transmission cooling line is leaking. It leaks where it connects to the radiator. Im not sure how I go about removing the connection from the radiator. It is tough to tell from the rust on the connection weather or not I can use a wrench on it. I have read here that there are cooling lines in this part of the radiator for the transmission. Is it serviceable or do I need a new radiator. I dont want to touch it until I know what I'm looking at.
05 F250 5.4L 4x4
[URL]......
Had the rear passeneger side brake line burst today in rush hour traffic ..wasn't much fun. Is it a easy to do it yourself deal ...it is a 2003 f250 v10 triton .
View 1 RepliesSo this is my major problem, leaving for a camping trip tomorrow afternoon. It's just 15 miles away, easy flat drive. What has happened is the trans line coming out of the bottom of radiator is leaking next to the fitting about an 1/8 ' out, So I can't cut off and splice in hose for the trip. I worked on it for about an hour, rusted on, tried some heat and now have some PB Blast on it and all I am doing is starting to round off the head of fitting. Is there any way to bypass this just to get the camper to campground and then get to a shop while we are gone Don't care if I have to splice and cut, will get new lines later.
2004 f250SD 5.4 83000miles
So my 2000 f350 is leaking transmission fluid from the cooler line. It goes to the rear of the transmission, but where does it go to from there?
View 5 RepliesI noticed yesterday that my tire on the driver's side has rubbed a flat spot on the rubber brake hose. I bent the metal tubing so that it doesn't rub any more, but should this be of great concern? Obviously I'd hate for it to rupture, but it looks as though it's not too bad.
View 1 RepliesSo...I'm dealing with a leaking passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2001 F250 SD. (Extended cab, long bed, 5.4 XLT.) Been slowly making progress on getting the manifold bolts off (the ones that weren't broken already at least.) Got all the top row off and the flange free yesterday, today was on to the bottom row.
I undid the 2 bolts on the PS motor mount studs and carefully jacked up the motor to lift that side a bit. I couldn't figure out anywhere else so I put a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan and used that point to lift up with the truck's bottle jack.
Worked well enough, but when I decided to call it a night I lowered it back down. Looking at one of the studs that I could watch as I moved it, the mount came to rest about an inch and a half away from where it started. (Higher up on the slant.)
How much does this matter? If the position is critical, how can I go about getting it back to the starting point?
I have a feeling the fact that I'm working in my uneven, unloved driveway had a lot to do with this. The passenger side is raised slightly and on a jack stand. Just enough to get the wheel on and off for access through the well.
On a positive note, I only have one more bolt to remove to free the manifold, the one right above the mount. I couldn't get anywhere with my nut extractors so I finally started grinding away at the nut with my Dremel. Should be able to get the old manifold off tomorrow and start working to get the studs out.
My Irwin Bolt Grips worked a treat combined with a MAP Pro torch on the others, but not so much on the hardest to reach one. Go figure. For starters there just isn't enough room to get a good solid hammer blow on it to seat it, and to make things way more complicated for some reason that particular location had more exposed stud length, so I couldn't get it all the way on to the nut and still get a ratchet wrench into the other end too.
I made a bone head mistake and crunched the steel brake line between the rear axle and the passenger side sway bar mount. Truck is a 2003 F-250 with a 7.3. I would like to go to the auto parts store, get bulk steel brake line and bend it myself. But, I don't know what size the line is or what size the fittings are. Whatare the sizes???
View 3 RepliesI purchased a 2000 F250 7.3 4x4 (auto transmission) about 8 months ago. I've noticed recently that when I accelerate there is a slight hesitation like there is slack in the drive line. This does not happen when the truck is moving and I accelerate. There is not audible clunk and the hesitation is not in the motor.
I checked the u-joints and they all feel tight. There is a little slack in transfer case that allows me to turn the drive line slightly back and forth. Is this normal? Should I be planning on a transmission or transfer case rebuild soon?
Update: I was researching the leaf spring isolator pads (mine are warn out or missing) and it sounds like these can cause something similar to what I am experiencing. I am planning on pulling a 28' travel trailer from Colorado to Wisconsin next month and would like to avoid any issues if possible...... Obviously, I know ....
I have a 2000 f250 V10 CC 4x4 long bed. The rubber fuel line that has a quick disconnect to attach to the fuel filter along frame is leaking. This is on the filter side going to engine. Ford tells me fuel line not available. Dorman products tech assist can't tell me which connector of there's will fit my truck.
View 2 RepliesHave a 2007 V10 and I want to put in a Magnafine tranny filter. Instructions say to plumb it in to the return line. Which one is this, top or bottom?
View 11 RepliesReplacing the evaporator? I am just curious how big of a job it is. I have the a/c equipment to service the system. Its on my 01 f-250 with a 7.3.
View 6 RepliesOK, I've done a lot of things over the years on cars and trucks but never messed with ball joints on a F250SD 4x4 with 160k miles. Found out today when getting new tires that the ball joints are shot. I trust the shop but know I can do this my self. So if I'm going to do this what should I replace? Since I'll be doing this I want to know from those with more time under the truck than me what else should I be replacing at the same time. I have done the front wheel bearings and of course shocks. Just what am I in for and what other parts and brands should I be using? Bushing kits for stabilizer bar? Replace stabilizer bar with heavier after market?
View 12 Replies