Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F250 - Speedometer Reading Fast
Nov 1, 2016
Got a weird one today. Everything was fine all day. Got the old girl smogged this afternoon and made one more quick stop. Got back on the freeway and up to speed and looked down. Speedo said I was 90? Yeah right. I was going with the flow.
So I plugged in my bluetooth ALDL dongle and fired up OBD Link. Well, OBD Link showed normal and accurate speeds. As did a second app on my phone for giving speed. So my VSS must be working correctly.
So my speedo is showing about 25 over actual. When the ignition if off the needle sits between 20 and 25. so did my speedo take a dump? Is there anything else I might try to see if it auto-calibrates?
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I just bought a 06 F250 King Ranch and the information center on the gauge cluster just shows the current odometer reading. When I press the information button that is supposed to toggle between trip mileage and avg mpg just the odometer shows. This truck was vandalized (bought from auction) so I am wondering does it have a XL cluster so I am asking are all the clusters different between XL, XLT, Lariat, King Ranch, etc and I have the wrong one installed or maybe there is an issues with my information center.
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2006 F250 Diesel 125000. Got truck back from dealer pulling out noticed blinkers blinking fast. Figure classic burnt bulb. But upon further inspection no tail lights when headlights on. Ooh and a driver side mirror with blinker that has a crack over the lower light which is side the marker/running light, the light does work. After I Google the issue and see that the MFS is a big culprit I replaced it and have same issue. What I do have working and when:
Brake lights work when headlights off - no key in ignition
Brake lights work when headlights on with blinker on - no key in ignition
Brake lights do not work with headlights on - koeo, koer
Blinkers (rear) when selected both blink
Ignition switch?
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The 19.5" wheels are not an option on the 2013 F-450, unless you order a Chassis Cab. I'm certain many have made this change. My question is can the dealership make the necessary changes so the speedometer correctly measures the vehicle speed?
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On my 2006 F-250 truck, the speedometer is acting funky. It's like it stuck on the deceleration and now at a complete stop or idle it shows a speed of anywhere from 40-60 mph. It does change and go up and down, as I drive but it's now just off by 30-60 mph. Is this an electronic setting/calibration that one can do?
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I recently (2 weeks ago) picked up my first Effie, a 2004 RN F250 Supercab XLT 5.4L 4x4 auto (dual Fuel Petrol/ LPG).
One of the things I am exploring is a problem with the tachometer reading high. I read on a thread somewhere on the forum that it was most likely that the earth of the tach plug was not connected. (It was a great thread but I can't seem to relocate it)
I am still chasing a workshop manual to get wiring diagrams, etc. In the mean time, where to locate the said plug/ earth connection?
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2006 F-350 6.0. I have an intermittent problem with my Speedo reading zero while I'm doing 70mph on the fwy. since the speedo won't work the truck goes into limp mode, the turbo will not function at optimum level. I have replaced the diff. sensor, the trans sensor, the a.b.s.sensors, the instrument cluster to a reman cluster. Then when I had a local mechanic plug a laptop diagnostic program on it as he was running through the system inadvertently the radio cut out, so I found that who ever installed the after market stereo they cut a few wires to the harness, I went to the junk yard found the harness end and replaced the end. so with all that said and done no one knows what is causing this speedo not to work and limp mode. about 4 years ago the oil pump stopped working and ruined the turbo so the whole front end of that glorious 6.0 was rebuilt the problem started about a year after that.
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2004 F250 Crewcab 4x4 5.4 automatic.
My speedometer quit working - stays on 0, my odometer stays on 271006.5 miles. Everything lights up, when I do a gauge sweep, the speedometer goes from 0 to full blast then back to zero. On the gauge sweep, my odometer states off all the code stuff like I think it's suppose to.
Anyway, I was lucky enough to get a speeding ticket - driving with the flow of traffic, with the police officer behind me for a mile or more. Pulls me over, explain my speedo just went out, he said he can't let me off but the judge might. So I'm trying to fix prior to a court date.
Here is what I have tried so far.
1. Replaced the VSS in the axle - no change to problem.
2. Replaced the sensors on top of the tranny (2 of them) - no change in problem.
3. Sent the cluster off to a repair shop - they said it worked when it left there shop - no change in problem.
4. Replaced the battery - thought it might have a dead cell. - no change in problem.
5. Unhooked the battery, turned on the headlights, waited 30 minutes, put it back together. (did this probably 5 times) - no change in the problem.
6. Replaced the diff fluid. - no change in problem.
7. Replaced the front left abs sensor on the hub - the existing wire looked like it had rubbed on metal - possible short? - no change in problem.
So far I've just been what seems to be time and money at it with no luck.
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I have a 2001 F250, 5.4, 4X4. My ignition key stuck in the start position and when I pulled it back to the run position, everything seemed ok. As I started down the road, my speedometer stopped working and my overdrive light was flashing. Also my turn signals had stopped working and my A/C clutch didn't engage. Figured I burnt a fuse. I looked in both the under dash and power distribution box and all seemed well. I checked the fuse for the turn signals/flasher and it was fine. The flashers worked. Thought I might have fried something so I replaced the ignition lock and switch. Also my service engine light came on throwing a code for the vehicle speed sensor.
Looking for solutions on this forum and the internet, I learned that the turn signal switch could have gone bad and the VSS sensor is on the top of the rear dif and an easy fix. Well replaced the sensor but nothing changed. So I went back to the fuse box. Examined every fuse, big and small and I found a 10a with a small space. This was #24 under the dash. From the manual, "#24, 10A, A/C clutch, Blend Door Actuator, Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay Coil, Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS), Turn Signal." Replaced it and everything went back to normal. Turn signals work, A/C clutch works, no flashing overdrive light and speedometer works. All from a 10A fuse. If you have any of these symptoms examine all the fuses carefully. There's a 20A fuse for turn/hazard lamps and this other one buried that's only 10A.
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Looking for a tutorial on how to add the fog lamps to an 06 f250 superduty? I have an xlt with the fog lamp switch just need to install the after market fog lamps they are leds.
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With the colder temperature, I noticed the temperature for the transmission is not getting up to normal as quickly as before. Yesterday I switched to gauge mode and it showed 145 degrees after 20 miles of driving at an outside temperature of 42 degrees. What the minimum temperature should be? It's not showing a check engine light and shifts good.
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Last week I flipped the fan switch on and noticed that only hot air was coming from the vents, even with the control set to AC. The vent control switch seems to work fine directing the air but only hot air. The temperature control does not work. The exception is when I put it on max AC I get cold air. I can't be the only one.
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2006 F250 5.4 - While driving ac changes from vent to defrost on it own..let off gas and it will change back to vent. I replaced vacuum can under hood.. no luck.....
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I bought this truck used and it is my first F-250. I took it to the shop last week and they found a few things and a cracked radiator was one. They replaced the radiator with a new one. I heard the sound before the new radiator and I still hear it now. The coolant level is not dropping and the engine is not over heating (also no fluid on the ground). Is this a normal cool down sound?
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I know there is a motor or switch that I can remember the name of that is in the dash somewhere that controls the Defrost and regular cabin flow. I am not good with A/C, and was wondering, what is the name of it, and is it something I can get to behind the glove box or is it very complicated?
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I have an 06 F-250. I have had this truck since Oct 2013 and had never use 4 wheel drive here in southern Alabama, so my question is i lock my hubs, turn my selector to 4 high and it works. Now selecting to 4 low and I get nothing.
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I am new to the Superduty and the Diesel world. I just purchased a used 2006 F250 SD XLT with 79K miles on it. This truck has a brand new 6 inch rancho lift. I just bought brand new 35x12.50x18 toyo open country AT tires and new 18 inch rims. I have the steering box replaced, new brakes all the way around, front end alignment and the Turbo pedestal secured.
However, I am still getting a vibration in the floor going down the highway when i hit 70MPH under acceleration? Once I let off the gas the noise goes away.
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0 with 100000 started having low power when taking of from a stop. Then got a strong diesel smell and then the check engine light came on. I checked codes and got a p0470 and a p0299 pending. Where to start. I am new to diesels but I have a strong mechanical back ground.
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Having problems with no heat at idle or low heat in the cab. I just bought this truck a couple weeks ago and have a limited warranty on it. The truck makes no heat at idle. I start it and let it just run, engine temp gauge goes up to normal operating temp in 15 min or so, still nothing from the vents but cold air. If I drive it I get a "little" heat, at idle, cold air again. I believe the thermostat is working because like I said, engine temp stays right in the middle.
Brought it to local ford dealer, their diagnosis was heat core clogged and needed to be flushed, had that done. truck has been running 40 minutes in the driveway now, engine temps nice and warm, no heat. What could be the issue? I took a picture of what I believe are the lines running to the heater core, just barely warm to the touch, not hot by any means. It looks like there is a vacuum actuator on the line running in but there is no hose attached to it, what this it, should it have a line running to it?
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Ok I rebuilt the engine in my f250 5.4 3v. Timing set cam phasers and oil control valves are new. The problem I'm having that just started after 5k miles on a new engine is all of a sudden i will start getting misfires 1st time it happened said #6 i changed coil same problem came back this time said multiple misfires now I'm just getting #4. When the misfires happen if i hold throttle where it is it will misfire as long as i hold it there if I let off gas then apply right back misfires stop for several miles then will happen again. I have changed fuel pump and fuel pump driver module same problem exist.
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I have a 2006 F250 V10 that has this issue most of the time but not all the time. Start her up, foot on brake and the shifter wont move. I use the bypass method to get her moving when this happens. It seems to be doing it more often lately. Also I recently has a cruise control issue. Hit the brake to shut it off and it doesn't stop it! Not sure if the 2 are related. The internet said I need to replace the switch on the master cylinder to fix the cruise control. I got lots of different stories on the park issue.
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