I've got a 2006 F250 5.4l Super Cab. When I bought the truck the rear interior door trim panels were missing. I tried to order them straight from ford but it turns out they no longer carry them, and I can't seem to find them anywhere online. I've also looked at the salvage yards in my area- nothing. Where I would be able to find these elusive creatures?
View 3 RepliesThe rear doors on my super cab rattle like there is no tomorrow. It is the panels rattling. There has been a lot of discussion about the doors and the way they latch being the problem with the typical rattle and cluck doors.
Have to take off the panels to see if they can be dampened in anyway? Where are the fasteners keeping the panel on?
I am about to take the panel off and leave them off. Some days I laugh, some days I cry. My truck has 90K miles on it and they have clanged and banged since day one.
I have a 'new to me' 2007 F-350SD super cab and need to run some wiring inside. What I don't know is how the heck the trim pieces are attached and how to remove them without breaking them! If it ain't held on with screws, nuts, bolts...
View 2 RepliesWas the plastic exterior trim on my 01 F250 originally black or grey? I was thinking of repainting the running boards, side mirrors, door handles, front bumper trim and bed trim with that Dupicolor bumper black. Want to make sure and keep it factory in appearance.
View 9 Replies2006 F-250 'family Cadillac' ... Where exactly is the door buzzer? I am looking all around under the dash but can't find it. I want to disconnect it.
View 13 RepliesI just bought a 2006 F250 Lariat. The previous owner did not have a manual for the vehicle. When I open a door the dome light does not come on. Is it supposed to come on in that vehicle? The exterior light above the rear window that illuminates the bed of the truck does come on when a door is opened so it makes me think that there is a wiring issue with the dome light. I can light the dome lamps with the switches on the lamp housing so I know that it is working and the bulbs are good.
View 8 RepliesI've got a 2008 f-250 extra cab. A small bump will cause the rear driver side door to pop open. What I have to do to fix it, I don't want the grandkids falling out.
View 2 RepliesI bought my 06 F250 with the V10 just 2 months ago. I have just a hair over 100k miles on it. A few weeks ago I started hearing this low pitched whine coming from the rear end - and my mechanic found metal shavings in the oil for the rear differential. It starts around 15 mph when I accelerate and it kinda sounds like a real low pitched turbo winding down as I come to a stop.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 Super, CrewCab 4 dr, 6.0 w/60K. Last month I tried the rear power window and .......nothing.
It tried to open 1/2 inch and then stopped, had to try to power it closed and it moved 1/4 inch and I pushed it the rest. Removed the rear cover behind the seats and I can see the motor and wires attempting to move but it does not move and I am afraid to burn the motor out or push too hard and break a cable or worse.
The track looks really dirty, I use that window maybe once every 2 months.
1. Can I replace the motor myself?
2. Can I put something in the track to clean/lubricate?
3. Should I try to open the window under power and some additional manual pushing?
I have a 2006 F250 and the other morning I came out and found the rear view mirror laying on the cab floor. No biggie, I'll just glue it back on. Then I noticed the small black decal looking thing on the inside of the windshield. My question is, does this have to come off in order to re-install the mirror with standard Permatex mirror adhesive, or do I just put adhesive on top of it? Also, is there a different, specific adhesive used here that won't crack the windshield 2 weeks from now, like I read. Took a closer look and realized they used a thin adhesive patch to attach the mirror. I'll get one from the dealer.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 and a 6-speed with 140,000 miles. It has been studded, and has upgraded injectors. ( Not sure on the size, they bored them at at the diesel shop that studded my heads.) Also have an EGR delete, with the EGR turned off on the SCT as well. I also have a SCT Livewire set on the 65HP tow tune.
Truck has always ran great in the year and a half I have had it. I changed the oil three days ago, and now I am getting a miss at idle. The trucks cranks right up and drives normally. Once it is at operating temperature, when I stop at a light it has a very noticeable miss. There is no surging, or change in RPM's at all. Just seems like it is cutting out every few seconds. This is also somewhat intermittent. FICM shows 49 volts always, even when this is occurring.
Also, this may be unrelated, my oil temperature seems higher since the oil change. Was around 192 water/197 oil while cruising 70 on the interstate. Now, its' more like 192/202. I've always ran Motorcraft 15w-40, and that is what I used for this oil change as well.
I see some people have a similar problem, but all the posts I've read involved fluctuating RPM's or surging, or both. Other than this, the truck cranks and runs just like normal.
Looking for a breakdown for installing a new clutch pack in the rear differential of my 06 F250 Diesel sterling 10.5. I found a kit on rockauto.com but it has 4 weird looking shim things I don't recognize, I rebuilt my diff in my 03 crown vic 8.8 but there's some extra pieces in this kit I don't recall.
View 6 RepliesHow do I remove the interior rear door panels?
My passenger side rear door handle does not work. My mechanic fixed it once, said the cable had jumped off the pulley. I figured it can't be that difficult to fix if I can get the door panel off.
I have recently purchased an 04 F250 crew cab with the 6.0 power stroke, it has a cold air intake, 4inch exhaust from the turbo back and has a program in it but programmer didn't come with the truck. When I sit at a traffic light and go to leave on a green light the truck kind of hesitates or acts like it's missing out( maybe loading up) shoots out black smoke then runs fine, it doesn't do it at all the stop lights but does get irritating. If I get it flashed back to stock settings will the truck run normal with all the upgrades?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 ford f250 with a 6.8 liter v 10 engine. At about 40mph the truck will start missing and lacks power to accelerate further. This problem is intermittent. Some days it runs great and others the miss appears. Well I scanned and the code reader said that I had a misfire on cylinder 7. I took a chance and replaced the COP and the boot for that cylinder . Ran great for a day and then the miss came back. Same code again. What else might cause this? Are plugs difficult to change in these engines?
View 6 RepliesJust got a 2008 F-250, truck has the center console jump seat and the console lid is missing. Can you just buy a new lid or do you have to buy the whole thing? Cost? Places to buy?
View 4 RepliesI'm not just reposting it though. I went ahead and sprayed all of the door switches with WD-40 multiple times, and the interior cab lights still come on. So, I'm assuming one of the switches in the doors is bad. Only thing is, I don't know how to figure out which door has a bad switch. Any way I could check this? Or it may be something other than a bad switch. It's annoying not having any interior lights (I took them all out to keep the battery from running down).
View 6 RepliesGot off the freeway today, driving along about 40 or so thought I smelled something hot like something burning. Stopped in a parking lot and smoke was rolling out from drivers side rear wheel. Look under and oil is dripping from inside of the wheel. Figure the caliper was hung up and got so hot it took the seal out. I can't get to it right now and the shop says I can't get in until next week, need my truck now. How long could I get by the way it is IF I take it real easy.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2008 F-450 with the King Ranch interior. Every time I hit a bump in the road, I hear a squeak in the back. It sounds like it coming from the pillar behind the door, but I can't seem to find anything that is loose or would cause this noise. I hear nothing when the window is open (from outside the cab), so I don't think it is a body mount or anything.
I've seen posts on this saying it is the back seat and I've completely taken mine out and checked every bolt and made sure it isn't rubbing on anything.
This is the 3rd crew cab truck i've had and my 2005 made the same sound, though not as frequently. My 99 also made the same sound, again not as frequent as this truck. This truck does it all the time when empty, but seems to do it a little less when loaded down, probably because the suspension is absorbing more of the bump. I can't believe this is isolated to my trucks and I am wondering to identify this noise.
I have a 2012 F250 and am having a problem where the interior lights wont come on with the dash switch or when the doors are opened. I have confirmed that it is not a bad fuse, also the lights will come on when the switch on the individual lights is manually pushed, but not automatically like they are supposed to. I dont see it being a door switch issue because the door chime comes on and the stereo goes off when the doors are opened after turning the ignition switch off. I've read that the dealerships will switch out the BCM. I thought maybe the dimmer switch next to the headlight switch but there is no power to it whatsoever, which also I can't dim the instrument panel lights. What did you do to resolve?
View 1 RepliesJust got a 2001 F-250 Super Duty (crew cab, long bed, 4x4, 7.3L turbo diesel) and have been going through and fixing a lot of little issues. The one that now has me stumped is the interior lighting circuit (which is also the bed light). Here's what I've got so far:
Map/reading lights work, but dome lights do not (neither automatically nor when turning them on via the dimmer switch). Verified all fuses in the PDC as well as the interior fuse panel (behind the driver side knee panel). The interior lighting relay was missing, so I purchased and installed it.
Relay #1 (interior lighting), fuse #4, and fuse #14 are all good - when I pull the fuse with the door open, the relay clicks (and clicks again upon reinstalling the fuse). With the doors closed, the relay clicks when activating the interior lights via the dimmer switch.
The LT GRN/YEL wire is hot, and all related accessories work (map lights, engine bay light, etc).
The BLK/LT BLU wire is not receiving power from the relay from what I can tell.
Before I start trying to pull out the fuse panel to start checking connectivity, anything else to check? The ground at the rear driver corner of the cab is good, and a visual check of the harness running down the driver side of the cab has no visible signs of damage.
Also, given that the relay is audibly actuating the way it should, I'm guessing that the GEM can be ruled out as a possible cause? My next step will be to get a pinout diagram for the relay and crimp a quick jumper to see whether or not it's simply a defective relay... But I doubt it's the case.