My manual hubs on my 2006 f250 have become very hard to rotate so I would like to replace them. I saw that bronco graveyard has Warn hubs for a Dana 60 front axle. Is this what I need? My door sticker with the axle code is illegible, and I want to make sure I get the right hubs.
View 5 RepliesOn my 2008 f250 I can not turn the hubs without a set of pliers...does that mean I need new hubs....
What auto tranny do I have with the 5.4.. is it a six speed...
I just ordered '00 F250 SC 4x4 SWB XLT with the factory standard manual hubs. The hubs show up on the vehicle order confirmation as code "21M MAN LOCKING HUB". I can't find this code in the ordering guides anywhere but kbb.com shows this code as "Manual hubs delete. Required with 213 shift-on-the-fly". I want the manual hubs. I think ##### is incorrect. For my piece of mind, could someone who has also ordered the factory standard manual hubs verify that the code is indeed 21M. And for those who ordered shift-on-the-fly, could you verify that 21M does NOT show up on your order confirmation...
View 8 RepliesI just purchased an F-350 with manual locking hubs. I am unsure if I can keep these locked in for part time four wheel driving or I need to unlock them each time I go back to two wheel drive?
View 6 RepliesI've noticed my front axles are rotating all the time even when the hubs are in auto and supposed to be unlocked when in 2wd. Is there a rebuild kit for these so they will unlock the axles or do I need to buy new locking hubs?
View 14 RepliesI just got a 99 F250 PSD, it had not been in 4wd in a while, now the hubs won't unlock.
My 01 F250 seemed to have strictly manual hubs. Turn right to lock, left to unlock. They may have been aftermarket, but on by the PO. Do I need to put some new Warns on the 99? Or can I lube then up and get them functional.
When braking the truck shakes terribly, enough to toss a drink out of the cup holder almost. Sometimes there is a slight feeling in the peddle but not always. The shudder feels like it is timed with each revolution of the wheels.
It developed from a perfectly stopping truck over the course of maybe a month. I don't drive the truck that much either.
Things I have checked:
1, all u-joints, they all look and feel good, no play or slop in them
2, air pressure in all tires, even rotated them, no effect
3, brakes-front and back all looked good but I went ahead and replaced front pads and rotors, cleaned caliper pins, zero effect.
4, shudder exists whether in gear and slowing or in neutral, 2wd and 4wd
What the heck else is there to check? My first thought was, front brakes/warped rotors, but after pulling them apart there was so much life left on the rotors and pads and replacing all that with new did nothing! Could bad back brakes cause this much of a shudder? They look fine as well.
So I noticed the past few days my 09 F250 was clunking in the front end when turning hard even with the hubs in auto so I knew there was an issue in there somewhere. This morning I took the jack and found the passenger side would not release no matter which way the lock was turned. Pulled the locking assembly out and found a couple of the pieces of plastic cage broken (truck has 250k miles) which is to be expected I guess but the locking ring that holds the inner piece that slides over the axle stub was off and hanging next to the c-clip on the axle.
So with the plastic of the cage already being broke and the mileage on the truck it's clear I need a new lock for that side.
Here's my dilemma, I have to deliver a conference room table 200 miles away tomorrow morning that they need for meeting tomorrow afternoon at 3:00pm. I cut the rest of the plastic pieces and took the gears out leaving just the cover with the diaphragm and put it back on the hub. I can't come up with any logical reason why I can't drive the truck this way but just want to bounce it off the experts here before I take off on a 400 mile trip in the morning. The only thing I can come up with is if I were to engage the 4wd the vacuum might suck the auto-lock diaphragm in and pop it but otherwise I can't find any reason to not run it this way, the hub is still sealed up and free-wheeling just like if it were in 2wd anyway.
Brings back memories of my many projects from back in the day. Anyway, my uncle has this f250. He said 4x4 wouldn't automatically lock the hubs in. I tested the vacuum pulse valve on the fender and changed it out. Now the hubs will lock in when you turn the light on the dash but it will not unlock the hubs unless you go outside and manually turn the hubs to engage then back to auto. Only then will the front end be unlocked. I notice small puffs of air blowing back from behind the hub themselves so I was thinking it's time to reseal the vacuum portion of the hubs.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 F250 with 154000km (96000 miles) that we bought last week. When I was looking it over during the purchase I noticed the front axle didn't lockup in "auto", in manual lock it seemed fine so I figured vacuum leak or something like that. Yesterday morning I was in the yard and got a little hung up in snow drifts so just got out, locked the hubs and switched to 4x4 and I think the front end didn't engage at all.
So later on I had it in the shop installing the two way radio and decided to check the front end out a little more thoroughly. Vacuum lines seem fine, hubs turn fine but I notice the axle shafts both move up and down almost a quarter inch, that seems excessively loose to me. I've been doing some research on the internet and it appears the front hubs are serviced as a unit, also some information seems to point to needle bearings within the actual locking hub mechanism itself?
So the questions:
1. Does that front axle shaft seem excessive? What are the specs?
2. Can I replace bearings and seals only or do these units come only as assemblies? Inner hub, outer hub units? Wheel bearings seem fine.
3. With that much play is there a chance the outer axle shafts are worn also?
Okay this is what I got; I recently purchased high mileage 2004 F250 Super Duty short box super cab 5.4 liter. Came with manual 4x4 handle on the floor so no 4 wheel on the fly and this eliminates the vacuum for the auto hubs so this will not be part of the problem. When engaging the hubs and ONLY when engaged the driver side hub grinds. The 4 wheel drive works but it sounds like its ready to grind itself into oblivion. I did pull the hub and the grinding was gone, I happen to have a spare hub that is good and the grinding returned.
I have jacked it up and made sure I have no play in the wheel itself and the axle knuckle on the axle shaft. Some say remove the front drive shaft? Or turn the wheels all the way in one direction engage the hubs and check for binding? I will do this in the morning, but what does that confirm if it not the hub. Could it be the passenger side echoing across? On my 99 Super duty I kept hearing moaning coming from up front like the breaks were shot and if you stuck your head out the window it was the back echoing to make it sound like the front.
I have a strange thing going on with my hubs i think. I have a 2000 f250 7.3 4x4 that I just purchased. Lettering on hubs were worn out as far as labeled locked or unlocked so I tried to turn the axel to see what position they were in. Drivers side spun freely but passenger side did not. Both hubs were counter clockwise and turning it to lock didn't change a thing.
Figured it was a bad hub so I jacked the front drivers side up. Spun tire with both hubs unlocked and axle didn't spin. Locked hub on drivers side and axle spun. Indicating the passenger side was unlocked. Then I locked passenger side and wheel would not turn. Ok. That seems right.
Jacked up passenger side front tire with drivers side on ground and axle spins no matter if its locked or unlocked. So does this indicate the hub is good and I should look at something else or could it still be the hub. Axle spins all the time and I don't want to wear anything out.
2001 F-250 7.3. The auto lock hubs are not working on the truck lock hubs in and all works fine. First thought is the vacuum system has a leak or something of the sort. Had truck at the shop they are telling me the GEM module controls the vacuum to engage the auto hubs and the signal is not coming from the GEM and it need to be replaced. It was the GEM causing the problem.
View 6 RepliesAbout a month ago I bought a 2004 F-250 160xxx from a reputable Ford dealer here in town. The dealer performed a safety and emissions inspection, and spent about a grand on other repairs, as a condition of my purchase. Today I had it in the shop for an instrument cluster issue (at a different Ford dealer, closer to my house), and was told the vacuum lines were all messed up. Their write up is below:
"Check 4x4 operation. Transfer case shifts to 4x4 and 4x4 low. Front hubs do not engage automatically. Check vacuum at the hubs. No vacuum. Check the vacuum at the solenoid. No vacuum. Perform visual of the engine vacuum lines. There is no vacuum to the reservoir. Vacuum line is routed wrong from the fuel pressure regulator to the vapor management valve. There is other vacuum concerns. All of the vacuum line routing needs to be inspected and corrected."
The service rep told me it is questionable whether the 4x4 ever worked, although during the few weeks I've owned it, I could hear gears or other mechanical parts making noise which seemed to me to be in response to me turning the 4x4 electronic switch. She also said there was a vacuum line dangling loose with a screw in the end of it.
Before I contact the dealer where I bought the truck, I am planning my going-in position. But I wanted to get a sense of a) how serious of a problem this might be? and b) how reasonable it is that the dealer didn't catch this issue before I bought the truck while they were in their fixing other things?
The dealer who sold me the truck made it very clear that the sale was as-is, and I took it to my mechanic prior to purchase, though unfortunately he only had time for a cursory look at the engine. Obviously he didn't look closely enough to find this issue.
I'm not sure if I should ask the dealer who sold it to me to fix it, or ask them to allow me to return it, or sell it back to them, or if I should eat the cost of fixing it. How wrong would it be to try to trade it in for something else?
I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and the ESOF switch not engaging hubs, currently I have no 4x4 lights coming on in the cluster when i turn the switch. I am not experiencing any of the vaccum symptoms that most people are suggesting. I When I turn the switch i also do not hear any relays clicking. Relays have been tested, and i waited for the 45 second transfer delay that the manual mentions. ESOF switch has power, and is working properly (I know because I bought a new one in attempt to fix the problem) Basically I have no responses from any of my 4x4 indicators or parts.
View 14 RepliesI recently picked up a '99 F250 Super Duty with the 6.8L V10 for a song.
The 4 wheel drive hubs are not working with the vacuum. If I use the manual lock on the hubs all is well. I ordered the Innova 31703 CarScan OBD2 + OBD1/ABS/SRS Scan Tool. It says it does Trans codes. I am hoping it will cover the 4 wheel drive too.
Maybe related, the heat is always on. Meaning I feel heat at my feet when the temp dial is cold and fan is off. I can't find the heater control valve to check the vacuum line.
06 250 5.4 40k on it, usually when cold and accelerating engine will misfire and stutter and then continue accelerating. The wrench light will flash sometimes but it wont store a code. This used to be vague in occurrence but has now started to be more a common occurrence even when up to normal operating temps.It seems only to misfire /stutter on hard acceleration or towing/hauling heavy loads. The only answer I got from a mech would be to do a computer reflash, not sure why /how this would fix whats going on.
View 1 RepliesDuring the winter, the truck would always start very hard. When it was trying to start it would pump out some white smoke. Now during the summer the truck will still start hard. At one point during the winter we were getting glow plug codes, now these have gone away that its warm. We did replace the glow plug control module, but that did not solve the hard start during the winter. We figured that there was a bad glow plug which is sorting out the rest. So we then figured the hard start issue would go away with the warmer weather but it has not.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 f250 CCSB 4x4 with the ESOF auto hubs. The auto hubs won't engage automatically. They work fine manually. The transfer case is engaging and correct lights are coming on. There is a little bit of vacuum coming from the vacuum switch but it doesn't seem like much to me. All the dash HVAC controls work fine though. I Lubed and cleaned inside the hubs according to Guzzles directions.
While torn down, I blew through the vacuum port on the outside of the hub and there was little to no restriction. I don't think there is enough vacuum to pull the hubs, but is that possible if all the dash controls work fine? What pressure should it take to engage them? My next step is to pick up a vacuum pump and see if I can engage them with it.
I am changing my 99 f250 4x4 from auto to manual tranny. I am just looking for pics of where the hydro line runs. I don't want line rubbing something and ruining line. Like does line run under the cab wiring harness? Like between wiring and firewall? Where on firewall does reservior get mounted usually? Are the holes all ready there for it that I am not seeing?
View 1 Replies2006, ESOF. Noticed the front hubs aren't engaging but the transfer case is. What should I check?
View 3 Replies