Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F250 - Intermittent Loud Chirping Noise
Jan 20, 2015
I have a 2006 f250 lariat 192k no mods except k&n filter everything is stock. I have 2" pro comp level kit and a scan gauge 2 nothing fancy! Well the other day I noticed my truck was chirping like a Chirp chirp chirp...... Chirp chirp...... Chirp chirp chirp! It goes up and down with the rpm's but it's comes on and off only when the engine is up to running temps the belt does squeak during warm up but I don't think that's it, it's coming from the back of the engine I'm sure of it because I used a paper towel tube and listed right in the turbo hpop area on top of the engine but it's too hard to tell I can't find exactly where it's coming from, some people I've had listen think it's a belt or pulley or tensioner! But I'm not sure if it is because I've sprayed water, and wd40 on the belt and pulleys with no change!!! I'm afraid it's a lifter or something inside the engine yet it's too loud and pronounced to sound like it's coming from the inside! I'm just lost!
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3. I was driving home from work on Tuesday (highway), I heard an intermittent noise coming from the front end, sounded like a rubbing/grinding noise. Yesterday on my way to wok, same thing, on and off. Yesterday on my way home the noise was constant, didn't go away. The noise comes at about 45mph and stays until I'm back under about 45mph, so mainly just on the highway. I put the truck in neutral and let off the pedal and the noise is still there which tells me it isn't engine related.
Yesterday after work I jacked up the front end, spun the tires, no noise. No play in the tires top/bottom or side/side. Took the tires off and what I did notice is the right axle u-joint is shot. I am hearing the noise in 2wd so I don't know if its the u-joint that's making the noise. Could it be a bad wheel hub bearing? Is it the u-joint? Maybe needle bearing??
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel, egr delete, headstuds, intake, dual stacks, etc and when i turn my wheel a loud whining noise comes from under the hood, I noticed it put tension in my brakes. When I accelerate it gets louder and when i let off the gas it goes away... i checked my fluid in my steering pump and it was low so i put some more in and the next day it was all sitting under neath the truck.... any quick fix or do i need to replace the whole pump?
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I drive a 2000 F250 5.4L. Currently has about 168,000 miles on it. I changed the oil the other day and cleaned the air filter. I used what I usually use on the oil change which has never been a problem. But this is first time to clean the K&N filter. A day or so later my engine is making a loud air rushing noise. Under throttle the engine compartment sounds like a wind tunnel. At 3500ish rpms it makes a harsh whistle noise. The air rushing noise doesn't go away once its warmed up or after the engine has been cool. Noise didn't go away with the filter being taken off either.
Could all of this be caused by cleaning and not using k&n air filter oil (but rather WD40 upon Dad's suggestion)? Or is there something else going on?
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I have a 2000 F250 2wd 6spd with a loud banging noise that has been vexing me for quite sometime now. The bang happens when I go over bumps (even small ones like road reflectors) while driving. I don't think it is suspension related since all the ball joints, front/rear swaybar and endlink bushings have been replaced fairly recently. All the springs and bushings also look okay.
The noise seems to come from the rear, and I notice that if I let off the gas when I go over a bump, it does not make a sound. Conversely, if I am accelerating aggressively and hit a bump, the sound is much louder. Also, if I step on the clutch while keeping my foot steady on the gas, it makes a bang. Jumping up and down in the bed while the truck is parked does not recreate the sound. I have already greased the driveshaft spline joint so I'm thinking the sound might be differential or transmission related. What it could be?
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6.2L F250 truck is just shy of 60k runs good however on cold startup there's now a pretty loud ticking noise for a short period (30 seconds) until it warms up then it slowly goes away. Once its warmed up there isn't much of anything.
Did these have exhaust manifold gasket problems like the 5.4? Hoping that's it if not, any other common problems that would make that ticking noise and then go away quickly once the engine is warmed up.
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I bought a 2004 6.0L F-250 used a few weeks ago. There have been a few problems here and there that I have been competent enough to fix. I am now facing a problem of A: the truck not starting (I believe it was just a battery problem, charged and started fine). But also B: I have had a slightly frayed serpentine belt that I noticed a few days ago. After I got the truck running from my the no-start and driving it around the block I parked it and went inside. Came back out a few minutes later and I tried to start it. It hesitated a little bit but started with a loud whining noise and white smoke coming from the belt. Turned the engine off and saw on one of the bottom wheels (pulleys?) some residue that looked and smelled like burnt rubber. Is this just simply a need for a new belt?
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To make a long story short, after replacing the timing chains, guides, and tensioners, the right side cylinder head began running very loud. Think of the usual chatter associated with these engines and multiply it. It was constant, from start up to shut down, and it increased with rpm. Thought at first it may be caused by debris in the oil clogging the lifter(s). After changing the oil multiple times along with different additives and driving roughly 600 miles, the noise persisted. Taking a look down the oil filler tube with a flashlight and with the engine running, the head looked dry. Safe to say at this point I was starving the head of oil.
Removed the valve cover. Removed the rearmost camshaft cap. Sure enough, the oil passage was completely blocked. Inspected everything and there was signs of running dry (minor discoloration, dried oil spots... but no real damage and no play anywhere. Put it all back together and the truck runs quieter than the day a bought it.
Here's the camshaft cap:
This is exactly what it looked like after removal. The material blocking the passage is hard and bridle like plastic.
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I have a noise with my new (2.6k miles) 2000 Diesel F250 Crew Cab. When I make low speed, right turns while crossing any type of depression in the road I hear a loud knock as if the left shock is bottoming out. There's an intersection near my house with runoff depressions across the road, I almost always hear the noise when making that turn. I've occasionally heard it coming from the right side when making a left turn.
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Just noticed today, while taking slight right turns 20-40MPH, I get a really loud and angry chirping sounds? Its only right turns...It sounds like a forest of angry crickets.
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I have a really loud whining kind of noise found that its the wheel seal rubbing on the inner part of the wheel bearing. I was just curious if its safe to drive with the spindle removed from the axle?
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So When driving around I'm hearing this squealing almost chirping noise and it sounds like its coming from the rear of the Truck. I greased the bushings and leafs but that didn't fix it, to me it sounds like a rotating noise. Don't think it's the brakes cause it makes the noise when driving not stop.
Also, a bad alternator would make noise while driving over 40+mph, like a loud whistle?
Drive a 2012 F250 6.2L 19k miles
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I have an 06 f250 that is making a growling noise that is speed sensitive and sounds like it might be coming from the front. I thought it was tire noise from my old worn out tires but with new tires it still maks noise, but tires have pretty rough tread. How can I tell if it could be a wheel bearing? It seems like the noise quiets down a little on right turns. It is kind of a growling humming noise that changes with speed.
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While driving today, 2006 Ford F-250 5.4 L V8 138,000 miles , I experienced a problem. Started with the truck acting as if it was running rough, possibly missing. This was approx. 10 Minutes after starting. Checked the dash, no warning indicators and all gauges were normal. Approx. 4 more miles, the oil pressure alarm signals and I see the oil gauge has dropped to zero. I pull over, turn off and check the oil. Oil is clean and at a normal level. I restart the truck and the oil pressure goes back to normal.
Rev the truck up while sitting there and after a few seconds i hear a knocking noise in the engine and oil pressure drops again. Call the tow truck, driver used to be a mechanic . He asks me to start it again and the same thing happens. If you start it and let it idle oil pressure seems to go up to normal with no engine noise. Finally get to the mechanic and he calls me later saying the oil pump and screen may need to be replaced or the engine may need to be replaced.
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For about 6 months the cruise control on our '09 F-250 has been intermittently failing. One time I'll set it and it will work fine, the next time I try to set it and it fails. No particular rhyme or reason to when it fails to set.
Some of the tests that I did indicated it was the brake light switch on the brake pedal arm. It seemed to work perfectly a few times that I drove it after the installation but now it's back to working when it wants to.
I had a problem with the cruise on our '06 Ranger and it turned out to be the module. It acted a bit the same way in that it would set sometimes, other time not. I don't know if the two systems are similar or not.
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1999 F250 SD Ex 4x4 V10 has been intermittently not starting, both cold and warm, began last fall but only happened once a month or so or longer. Would then start after trying again either right away or after waiting a bit. Now it is doing it on a regular basis. Sometimes it will start right away, sometimes won't but if you keep trying or wait awhile it starts, sometimes using the extra key will start it right away after the first one didn't, sometimes neither one. It does not try to turn over, make any noises, no warning lights flashing, just won't start.
Now also on two occasions within the past week, it just stopped while driving. Radio, dash lights, etc., stayed on. I got it to the side of the road with the little power steering left where it started up again right away.
No codes showed up. First mechanic couldn't find anything obvious or replicate problem. Changed air and fuel filters (fuel filter really needed changed), plugs. Got truck back and it wouldn't start next morning. He checked it again and got a code related to ignition, tried the spare key and it started up. Truck back home, next day same problem.
Mechanic 2 checked, no codes, kept several days but, of course, couldn't replicate problem. I'm not even sure what all they checked, used to be an excellent repair place but now they seem to only really on diagnostics and throw up their hands, very disappointing. Replaced solenoid and starter last year myself. Otherwise, have had no problems until this.
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The tach in my 01 F250 PSD has become intermittent. It works properly some of the time, not at all some of the time, and jumps up and down some of the time.
Does it get it's signal from the CPS? It has a blue CPS that's about a year old and the truck runs fine?
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty with the 5.4 Triton motor with a 5 speed. I bought the truck a couple months ago, and it had a bad manifold leak (not surprised lol). but it ran fine just noisy. So i had a shop do new gaskets and bolts. Then my problems started.........
When you start up the truck she runs fine and some times drives fine. I will be driving along and its like some one hits a switch and i suddenly loose all power it spits and sputters and i have to down shift to make any kind of hill.
So I figures I had a misfire i got a light on for cylinder 5. So I decided to change all coils and plugs hoping that would clear things up...... well it didn't. It ran great for roughly 15 miles then it started to do the same thing again. I've changed air filter and fuel filter also.
When it starts sputtering i sometimes get a check engine light on and then it goes away. when the light is on the codes are:
P1151 A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.
Read more at: [URL] ....
P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2
Read more: P1152 FORD Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2 | AutoCodes
Both codes come on together always. but it will go away when the sputtering clears up. I just checked fuel pressure its at 32psi at a idle.
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My 2014 F-250 is having a repeat problem with an intermittent cell engine light. About 10000 miles ago it happened, and they changed out the egr cooler. Saying it was gummed up with soot. Problem just started up again. Light will stay on for about 3 or 4 restarts then sir off on its own. It's this a known issue with the 6.7? Is there a way to prevent it?
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I've got an intermittent Trailer Wiring Error message that started appearing with a trailer connected on my '11 F250.
Brakes and lights work OK on the trailer, I thought I had read on the board here that there was a TSB for this, but I cannot find it.
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Alright i got a 2000 f250 with the 7.3 and its stick, when i let off the clutch to start moving, and at low speeds like mainly 1st and 2nd gear. Right below the cab there's a loud kinda growling or rumble, it shakes the truck a bit til i start moving good. Then it goes away. But what it could be? I think pilot bearing.
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