Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F250 - Fog Light Switch / Driving Lights Install
Dec 22, 2015
I just ordered a set of Hella 4000x driving lights for my 2006 F-250. I have an aftermarket bumper on it, so the fog lights were taken out as there was no place to put them once the new bumper was installed. The question is, will I have any issues hooking the new driving lights up directly to the fog light system so I can just run them off the fog light switch instead of having to install the new switch on my dashboard? I know the new lights are 12V, but I couldn't find info as to whether the fog lights were running 12V as well.
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I have a 2010 f250 XL v10 6 speed 4wd. I was looking into adding factory fog lights to it. I have the factory plug by the headlight. I've read that some XL trucks just need the fog lights, wiring harness for the lights and the headlight switch with the fog light option.
So today my buddy (has an 09 f250 xlt with factory fog lights) and I decided to try his headlight switch in my truck to see if it would send power to the plug by the headlight. Plugged it in, turned the fog lights on and had no power. Actually the little fog light light on the switch didn't light up that I noticed either. So we compared wiring harnesses going to the headlight switch. Both trucks have 9 wires. #21 fuse in the kick panel is intact and good.
What else my truck would need in order to use the factory fog light parts? I know I could run new wiring and use an aftermarket switch but I'd rather it be factory.
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I'm installing a new amber light on my 2013 F250 signal cab and was wondering where most people run the wires into the cab. It has a magnetic mount and I didn't want to put a hole in the roof. I have a cap on the truck and I also don't have a sliding rear window. This will not be a temp. install. Putting the wires in through a hole in the 3rd brake light?
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I would like to install some driving lights behind the front bumper of my 2005 Super Duty, I was going to drill two 5" holes and than weld in some 5" pipe from the behind the bumper and attach some 5" KC driving lights to it. Would a hole saw work for this or is a bumper to thick? I was looking at DeWalt or Lenox hole saws their bi-metal. I know that I have to drill slow and I was going to use cutting fluid. I could use my drill press but I think I would have to figure how to clamp a bumper to the table. Then I am going to grind/sand the chrome off and paint it black. I will be taking the bumper off doing all of this.
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I've got a 2006 f250 with 160,000 miles, trans was rebuilt by previous owner about 10,000 miles ago. The tow/haul light started blinking yesterday, only blinks for first couple of minutes of driving and then stops. Service engine light popped on today as well. Won't have access to a code reader until tomorrow, but looking for some preliminary info...
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I have a 2010 F250 super duty. I use it for work so I am not sure what happened to it as others have driven it, but here is the issue. When i start it up in 2wd, the 4x4 Low light flashes continually. If I turn the switch to 4x4 high, the 4x4 high light flashes continually. if i turn it to 4x4 low, that light flashes continually. I have read the forums but haven't been able to find the problem/diagnosis for this.
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I recently purchased an 06 F250 XLT Crew Cab. I want to add the factory automatic headlights to it. Is there anymore to it than the photocell and the light switch that I need to make it all function? I'm adding the factory driving lights and getting the automatic headlight switch with the driving light option. I tried the search function but came up empty.
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1999 F-250 7.3 Ext Cab 4X4... I just got this truck and it started having the 4x4 light flashing or flickering while driving and sitting?
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Driving up a slight hill unloaded yesterday at about 40mph constant pedal pressure the truck shifts into neutral...at least that's what it feels like. Revs go up and no power. When I take my foot off the pedal the transmission catches and drives fine. There is no bucking or hard shifting, just that slipping. What it could be? This problem arose suddenly....never had any problems prior. It is not an issue that has gotten worse over time...
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2006 F250 Diesel 125000. Got truck back from dealer pulling out noticed blinkers blinking fast. Figure classic burnt bulb. But upon further inspection no tail lights when headlights on. Ooh and a driver side mirror with blinker that has a crack over the lower light which is side the marker/running light, the light does work. After I Google the issue and see that the MFS is a big culprit I replaced it and have same issue. What I do have working and when:
Brake lights work when headlights off - no key in ignition
Brake lights work when headlights on with blinker on - no key in ignition
Brake lights do not work with headlights on - koeo, koer
Blinkers (rear) when selected both blink
Ignition switch?
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I am trying to change out my solid back glass for a power slider that's oem... My question that ford could not answer is, is the wiring all in place minus the switch for the install.. I have a 2012 F250 XLT. I am not even sure where the switch to move the window would go either...
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I have a 2006 f250 and the heater will blow cold air unless you are driving in like highway conditions. If you stop or drive slow it blows cold air only. What is causing this???
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I have a 2006 F250 Superduty 4x4 that the brake lights hazards and turn signals have stopped working in the rear.. The middle cab brake light does not work either.. The running lights do work as well as the turn signal and all lights in the front.. I also checked the trailer plugs and both work for running brake and signal lights.. I have checked all fuses under the hood as well under the dash with a test light and i have nothing blown.. I have replaced the Brake switch as well as the flasher module under the dash and picked up a new multifunction switch (Turn signal/hazard) and that didn't work either.. I'm stumped at this point.. I have not checked the bulbs yet but wouldn't think they would all blow at the same time.. (will do this next)..
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Should the indicator above reads "4x2, 4x4 hi, 4x4 low" light up when the driving lights (i.e. at night) switch is on?
If yes, how to change the light bulb?
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I bought a crew from a dealer, all the dome lights and cargo lights had the bulbs removed, so i put them back in and of coarse they all stayed on after you close the door, plus the door ajar light stays on when you are driving. I do notice the radio shuts off when you open the door after you turn off the ignition. Does that work on the same door switch, eliminating those?
Also are there switches on the rear doors also? Noticed that the radio isn't effected when you open a rear door. I tried to get the dealer to look at it a day after i took it home, a ford dealer at that, and they told me they tried to figure it out , and couldn't before they sold me the truck. Doesn't say much for their service department.
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Started truck it ran about 10 sec. then quit, low oil pressure came up on the dash will not start now.
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So coming home yesterday from our camping trip the tow/haul light started to flash. this was about 40 miles into the trip. So we pulled over, the tranny fluid looked low, so I added a little more. The light stopped flashing, but maybe another 20 miles it started again, we pulled over and it stopped. We got to a rest stop and after about 20 minutes, I called Good Sams Roadside, there tech said to take it out of tow/haul mode and so we left the rest stop and it was good for just about 40 miles.
We hit another rest stop, at this point we were about 80 miles from home. I did not feel any difference in the truck shifting or if it was acting different. The light flashed again, sometimes going off, then coming back on. We hit two more rest stops, letting the truck rest. We left the last rest stop, we were already halfway up a big hill on the Mass Pike and after 5 miles the light came on, but then after a few miles it stop and from that point to my house ( which was just over 50 miles) it never came back on.
The truck is a 2006 F250 gas that just hit 100,000 miles. New motor put in over the winter and a few years back had the cam phasers and some work done on it. Could this be some sensors, etc that is starting to go and needs to be replaced?
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I just bought a 2006 F250 Lariat. The previous owner did not have a manual for the vehicle. When I open a door the dome light does not come on. Is it supposed to come on in that vehicle? The exterior light above the rear window that illuminates the bed of the truck does come on when a door is opened so it makes me think that there is a wiring issue with the dome light. I can light the dome lamps with the switches on the lamp housing so I know that it is working and the bulbs are good.
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Experiencing a melt down with one of my trucks. One of our trucks is an 06 F250 SD with 80k on a 5.4L and the other day the tow/haul light started to flash. I took it to a buddy's repair shop (who is an experienced Ford tech and tranny guy) any way, it shifted fine until about the last 1/2 mile before I got to his shop, then it started shifting in and out of different gears. He found solenoid "A" pressure solenoid failure and one other solenoid failure, he replaced all 7 solenoids and also found the pigtail from the transmission to the wire harness bad as well and replaced that. I pick it up and get about a mile down the road and the light starts to flash again so I took it back, he ran his scanner and now found something with the coast clutch and through all his testing it told him the coast clutch needs replaced. He removed the trans. and tore it all down and found nothing wrong with anything, in fact he said everything looked in great shape and thinks the pcm failed.
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2002, F250, 5.4L, ZF-6 trans.
Ok...today by accident turned the key with the truck in gear and clutch not depressed...much to my surprise the truck tried to start and lurched forward.
Is this a sign of a failing clutch safety switch or Could it be an ignition switch problem? Anything else that I am not thinking of?
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Just picked up a 2001 Gas F250 4X4 XLT. Everything seems to work except for the electric windows and ABS. I pulled both window switches and cannot find any voltage on the Blue/black cables. I jumped 12v to the drivers side switch and the windows work up and down even in auto. I have voltage at the 30a circuit breaker in the PDB but nothing at fuse #7 in the PCFP. I've checked for voltage at another connector with a Blue/black cable and found nothing. I'm thinking bad cable or GEM. I have noticed that the bell system doesn't sound when you have the key in the off position with the door open if that matters.
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