Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F250 - CEL And Error Code For TPS Occasionally Comes On
Feb 10, 2015
Engine light and error code for tps occasionally comes on , then stays off a while. parts store said it was ok (shows full range) , but ford has an update for computer to fix. engine is v10 and parts store erased code and it hasnt come back. the only indication that something was wrong is the light coming on and once on the interstate at high speed , then the off ramp slow down, the engine seemed to want to stall as if engine not matching actual speed for a few seconds, then it was ok again. I was out of town and the mechanic that looked at it told me to go to Ford for an update. He tested the tps and said it was ok.
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2006 F-250 6.0... I'm getting a P0470 error code and no boost, The unison ring is free and clear, the Turbo will not create boost till about 2000 RPM on the road. If I unplug the VGT there is no change in the turbo.
When the vehicle is started there is no tone change in the exhaust. This just started after I replaced a dummy plug in the oil rail. I checked all the connectors as well. I cleaned the EBP and tube.
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What this means, how can I fix it? No technical jargon or abbreviations that I will not understand. The error code is for a 2006 F-250 6.0L Diesel automatic. I have a tow controller installed it came with the truck when it was new.
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CEL came on last night, OBD code PO420, truck is an 06 f250,5.4? Btw, truck running rough, no power on acceleration, in gear at idle, runs rough....
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This happens very often when driving around, at first it was only if i stepped on the accelerator to quickly or braked to hard, the check engine light comes on and the truck idles. Nothing seems to be wrong except when i step on the accelerator nothing happens, it lasts about 5 seconds then the light goes out and im on my way. it has started happening more and more just at random times now. it seems quicken the down time if i pump the accelerator.
Second, it occasionally feels like the transmission slips. I'll be driving and when I accelerate the rpms will go up, then what feels like the tranny slipping and the rpms go down. there is a distinct rocking motion when this happens, but it works if I turn it off and on again, or if i just step on the gas the next few miles it seems to subside.
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I have a new to me 2000 F250 7.3 diesel with automatic. Truck has 185K miles and tranny is starting to slip occasionally. Do these trucks come with a OEM tranny cooler or do I need to add or upgrade the OEM one. Someone also told that there is something called "bulletproofing" the tranny on these trucks. BTW, what would be a reasonable cost to have a two wheel drive auto tranny done on my truck?
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I have the gas 5.4l in my 01 F250 Super Duty. I had to change out the leaking Heater hose before I could attack this other issue. The truck starts when it feels like it. I changed the fuel filter and it started fine. Then the next day it wouldn't. Later it would. However each time it does start it dies when throttled up. I am down to thinking it is the fuel pump. My question is, because changing the pump sucks about as bad as changing the heater hose. Can I install an inline fuel pump and deal with the sump pump in the tank later? Are there any Cons to doing this?
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I'm having multiple electrical problems and not sure if all related or not but they started at the same time.
1) Occasionally (getting more frequent) truck acts like its almost dead and wont start, but if i remote start it cranks right up
2) Radio doesn't shut off when I open the door, but if i close it and open again it does
3) phone staying connected to bluetooth but its acting up when trying use phone for music
Pretty sure there is more but I cant think of them now.
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My 2001 f250 on occasion will roll a very uncomfortable distance when I put it in park. Not all the time, but enough to concern me. It will roll a good 12-18" before the park rod or what have you engages. Doesn't seem to be affected by grade. Matter if fact it has always done it on just slight grades. Nothing like a boat ramp. It rolls enough that if someone had been front or back it would have bumped them.
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2001 F250 5.4 ... I'm losing my mind chasing a Gremlin. I've been having mostly intermittent starting issues with my truck. I've had the truck for a little over a year, after someone totaled my previous one.
It occasionally wouldn't start on the first attempt, but it got really bad in the last couple weeks.
I first thought it was a faulty inertia switch or wiring in that vicinity, as at one point after manually tripping and resetting the cutoff switch it would start, UNTIL I put the trim panel back. At this point I think that may have been a coincidence.
I eventually probed the switch and it tests as it should electrically.
I put in a new fuel filter and things were fine for several days, but it acted up again. That time was last Saturday. Got it to start and all was good until tonight. Now it won't go, and I've tried so many times that I can see the battery power is dropping.
Last Saturday I pulled the relays from behind the radio and cleaned 'em up real nice. Also, just to check another variable I swapped the two that matched.
I'm about ready to change the fuel pump, but I've heard so many people say they did that but the problem was something else. Not only will it costs hundreds of dollars, its cold out and we'll have to drop the tank in the driveway.
In addition to the relay, inertia switch and fuse, I have found some mention of faulty fuel pressure regulators causing issues. I'll pry the vacuum line off in the morning to see if I can detect fuel residue on the vacuum side. (There is some noticeable corrosion on the fuel rail in that area).
I REALLY want to make sure I rule everything else out before spending hours under the truck in freezing weather dropping the tank and changing the sending unit out.
On key-on there is a noise from the gas tank, but someone else listening described it as a click but no whirring.
I do hear the relay clicking behind the radio. (Also, I pulled them again tonight and put a meter to them. With 12V on the primary side, they click and the other side shows continuity on diode check, and about .2 Ohm on resistance mode.)
I went through a lot of trouble to get my spare out looking for the fuel control module before finding out my truck is about 3 years too old to have one too. What else to check?
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So I just bought a 2003 f250 v10 and I've plugged in my code reader and it couldn't get any info, so I took it to auto zone and they got an error code. I took a test lite to each little connection on the port with the ignition on and only got power to some of the metal connections on the port. So I'm wondering if all the little connections should have power? If so where should I start to look to find the problem?
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99 F250 Super Duty 5.4 has a p7147 error. Traced all wiring cant find any short. Bought reman solenoid pack # are f81p-7g391-cb with green cover my old one in trans is f81p-7g391-ba with blue cover. Are these interchangeable? Have tried to read up on pwm & nonpwm and getting confused.
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I have a 2008 for 250 6.4 powerstroke. Issue I am having is occasionally when I shift from drive to reserve it will slam when I shift to reverse. It is an intermittent issue. What causes this and what to do?
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My truck is back in the shop for a third time for the same problem and the dealer is really clueless about anything. Here are the alarms I get when trying to start( Low Oil Pressure, Service AdvanceTrac, Engine Overtemp, Wrench Icon and Starting System Fault.)
When trying remote start nothing happens then the horns honks after a couple of minutes.
Below is the timeline and a video.
July 21, 2015 - Vehicle would not start, multiple alarms going off and dashboard has all icons showing. Towed vehicle in around 0700. Truck stayed in the shop overnight. Resolutions was told that the codes was reset and battery cable was tighten. I ask why the battery was loose when it was just in the shop for routine maintenance and it was signed off that it was good to go. I also told the service representative that I felt this didn't not solve my problem as it was just a quick fix.
Sept 4, 2015 - Problem is back, same symptoms, truck not starting, alarms going off, dashboard has all icons showing. Towed vehicle in around 1700. Vehicle stay in the shop for a week and was picked up around 1800 on Sept 11, 2015. Service representative stated they replaced the PCM and reprogrammed the keys.
Sept 12, 2015 - Yep you guess it, same problem and not even a full 24 hours from when the vehicle was towed to the dealership again. Truck wont start, same symptoms, alarms going off, all icons showing. Towed vehicle in around 0900. Vehicle would start now but check engine light is on. I have an inclination that all that will be done is to reset the codes.
2014 F250 6.7 Starting issues - YouTube
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I just got my 2005 F250 diesel out of the shop. The errors codes P0299 and P2263 were listed on the computer. The service done, was to clean carbon from turobo charger and service the EGR valve. I talked with the mechanic and he recommended that I use Cetane Booster Additive. What would the Cetane Booster do? How would it prevent the carbon build-up in the turbocharger? What should I do to prevent turbocharger carbon build-up?
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OD light flashes on my 2000 F450 7.3 but still runs and drives shifts fine. If i turn o/d off before i get going then it won't throw the code and start flashing at all. I am going to check the harness again to see if there are any bad wires. If not is it usually a bad solenoid pack i can just swap it out and fix the problem? I have to replace the pan soon so when I do if I need to replace the pack I'd like to do it then.
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I've got an intermittent Trailer Wiring Error message that started appearing with a trailer connected on my '11 F250.
Brakes and lights work OK on the trailer, I thought I had read on the board here that there was a TSB for this, but I cannot find it.
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2005 F350 crew cab with 6.0 currently cranks but no start with a P2291 error code. Using scanguage 2 it shows icp 0, IPR 67.7, FICM 47.5 while cranking. Disconnected ICP and still no start. removed icp and hooked up air and I do not hear/see any signs of air leaking. When I disconnect the air it then whooshes out. About 2 months ago got a #1 cylinder contribution error code and changed out that injector and it has ran fine up until this issue.
Can this be a IPR? I am leading towards the HPOP, but as it costs a pretty penny would really love to make sure I tried every other avenue.
I have 197K on it, and 2 years ago did a EGR cooler delete. In May this year replaced the oil cooler, and then in August changed out the #1 fuel injector.
Oil cooler screen was broken. Cleaned the entire reservoir out. Could this just be a clogged IPR? or seeing the change while cranking an indication that it is working?
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Trying to perform master reset on sync because, from the title, phone button inoperative, No Aux In, and attempting to connect the ipod, you get "connection error see dealer".
The Owner's manual indicates Fuse 40 protects Sync, GPS and Sirius, so I figure that is the one. When you pull 40 you still have gps and Sirius, so I figure Sync must still have power also. So, what fuse powers the sync module?
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I recently bought a 2008 F250 with the 6.4 diesel indirectly from a dealership. The truck itself has 220,000ish kilometers, but the engine (as well as the turbos) are Ford reman that had about 12,000km when I bought it and I have only put about 6500km on it. It is already leaking oil but that is for another thread.
The reverse sensors, steering wheel controls and part of the stock 6cd radio have never worked. The towing system has errors as well. The fuel level sensor often has problems reading the new level after I put in fuel, but that is always fixed by disconnecting the batteries and forcing a hard reset.
I figured the steering wheel/cruise control problem was due to either a broken clock spring and/or the brake pressure switch. I replaced both those as well as the airbag because the horn relay failed closed when I put it back in the wheel. It did not fix the problem. The steering wheel buttons still intermittently illuminate, but the radio controls and cruise control buttons do not function regardless. The truck isn't giving any codes either.
The towing system will activate lights and brakes on a trailer as well as set the gain, but it will not detect that it is actually hooked to a trailer. I cleaned the pins, but I haven't looked any further into it. No codes for this as well.
The reverse sensors/system does not work. It will lock itself in "off". I am guessing this is because one or more of the sensors have failed, but I am skeptical that it would be just that given the trucks other problems.
The radio does work, but the auxiliary input/mode will not work. I ran the diagnostics on the radio and on 'Test 1' I got "SELF FAIL B1342 ECU" and "B2477 CONFIG". I tried to clear the codes, but I can't. I think this means the radio is kill.
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Ok says injector pressure sensor low first guess was the upgrade to the blue spring. Did that code clear for a day then comes back on looking at the hfcm but kinda unsure? Came on after we got the real cold snap and i had to buy a block heater I don't see one on here i also added diesel 911 to the tank this is a 05 f250 w 6.0l....
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