Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F250 5.4L V8 Hisses After Shut Down
Jun 14, 2015
I bought this truck used and it is my first F-250. I took it to the shop last week and they found a few things and a cracked radiator was one. They replaced the radiator with a new one. I heard the sound before the new radiator and I still hear it now. The coolant level is not dropping and the engine is not over heating (also no fluid on the ground). Is this a normal cool down sound?
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I have a 2006 F-250 Super Duty (6 liter diesel). The high beams stay on unless I pull the fuse (fuse 30). It doesn't matter what position the headlight switch is in. It is like the high beam flash on the multi-function switch is stuck. It feels fine, but high beams stay on regardless of position, even with the truck off. The low beams (if in low beam when the truck is shut off) do go out as do the running lights after 15 or so seconds (normal) it's just the high beams. Also the high beam indicator light is on all the time (until I pull the fuse) and the fog lights will not come on until I pull the fuse. Should I replace the multifunction switch or look elsewhere?
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Ok truck shut down wouldn't start back. Put fuel filter o. Frame cranks but won't start. Was told has high pressure oil leak in engine?
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Okay so I have an e99 f250 7.3 the problem all started went I hit a puddle the other day. My horn started going crazy and wouldn't shut off so I had to pull the fuse and relay. After that I found another problem, all my dash lights,headlights and running lights will not turn off unless I pull the battery terminals, it does not matter which way the headlight switch is it can be on or off and they stay on. I did find it though if I pull the negative terminals and put them back on the lights stay off if I turn the switch on and try to turn the lights back off with the switch they stay stuck on again untill I pull the terminals what could be the problem I've looked at every fuse and can't find the probelm.
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I'm in having emission problems with my 2010 F250 lariat 6.4 diesel truck my DPF filter keeps getting clogged up engine just shut off on me then I sent it to get cleaned professionally got it installed drive it for 20 miles and my pick up shut off on me and left me stranded and I can't seem to pass inspection...
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We currently have a 2011 F250. During the day time, when you turn on the headlights all the way (not just on "auto"), the dash lights and clock shut off. Originally, I thought that they were just dimmed to the point where you couldn't see them, but the brightness is already turned all the way up on the dash lights. If I turn the brightness up any higher, the dome lights turn on, but the dash and clock remain off. If you return the headlights back to the "off" or "auto" position, the clock and dash return to their normal brightness.
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I have a 2002 f250 SD v10 4x4. I had a ground wire break fixed that know noon of my instruments work. Dash lights up but nothing moves. Pulse my parking lights stay on when the truck is shut off or when I turn lights on then off. I have to disconnect the battery to get hem to shut off.
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While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
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03 f 250 super duty, my battery light came on and when I accelerate my dash gauges shut down and radio turns off, if I idle or stay under twenty MPH, everything works fine. Battery and alternator test good, lights never dim, any thoughts
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My 2006 6.0 shut off immediatEly after starting this morning and never started back up. I have a scan Guage 2 hooked up. I'm showing no ficm voltage and no sync even when cranking. I physically checked the ficm voltage with a dvm at the screw to the far right on the ficm, and I have 48 volts. Why do I have 48 volts at the ficm, but 0 volts showing on my scan guage? And no sync when cranking?
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So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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Looking for a tutorial on how to add the fog lamps to an 06 f250 superduty? I have an xlt with the fog lamp switch just need to install the after market fog lamps they are leds.
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Last week I flipped the fan switch on and noticed that only hot air was coming from the vents, even with the control set to AC. The vent control switch seems to work fine directing the air but only hot air. The temperature control does not work. The exception is when I put it on max AC I get cold air. I can't be the only one.
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2006 F250 5.4 - While driving ac changes from vent to defrost on it own..let off gas and it will change back to vent. I replaced vacuum can under hood.. no luck.....
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I know there is a motor or switch that I can remember the name of that is in the dash somewhere that controls the Defrost and regular cabin flow. I am not good with A/C, and was wondering, what is the name of it, and is it something I can get to behind the glove box or is it very complicated?
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I have an 06 F-250. I have had this truck since Oct 2013 and had never use 4 wheel drive here in southern Alabama, so my question is i lock my hubs, turn my selector to 4 high and it works. Now selecting to 4 low and I get nothing.
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I am new to the Superduty and the Diesel world. I just purchased a used 2006 F250 SD XLT with 79K miles on it. This truck has a brand new 6 inch rancho lift. I just bought brand new 35x12.50x18 toyo open country AT tires and new 18 inch rims. I have the steering box replaced, new brakes all the way around, front end alignment and the Turbo pedestal secured.
However, I am still getting a vibration in the floor going down the highway when i hit 70MPH under acceleration? Once I let off the gas the noise goes away.
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0 with 100000 started having low power when taking of from a stop. Then got a strong diesel smell and then the check engine light came on. I checked codes and got a p0470 and a p0299 pending. Where to start. I am new to diesels but I have a strong mechanical back ground.
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Having problems with no heat at idle or low heat in the cab. I just bought this truck a couple weeks ago and have a limited warranty on it. The truck makes no heat at idle. I start it and let it just run, engine temp gauge goes up to normal operating temp in 15 min or so, still nothing from the vents but cold air. If I drive it I get a "little" heat, at idle, cold air again. I believe the thermostat is working because like I said, engine temp stays right in the middle.
Brought it to local ford dealer, their diagnosis was heat core clogged and needed to be flushed, had that done. truck has been running 40 minutes in the driveway now, engine temps nice and warm, no heat. What could be the issue? I took a picture of what I believe are the lines running to the heater core, just barely warm to the touch, not hot by any means. It looks like there is a vacuum actuator on the line running in but there is no hose attached to it, what this it, should it have a line running to it?
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Ok I rebuilt the engine in my f250 5.4 3v. Timing set cam phasers and oil control valves are new. The problem I'm having that just started after 5k miles on a new engine is all of a sudden i will start getting misfires 1st time it happened said #6 i changed coil same problem came back this time said multiple misfires now I'm just getting #4. When the misfires happen if i hold throttle where it is it will misfire as long as i hold it there if I let off gas then apply right back misfires stop for several miles then will happen again. I have changed fuel pump and fuel pump driver module same problem exist.
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I have a 2006 F250 V10 that has this issue most of the time but not all the time. Start her up, foot on brake and the shifter wont move. I use the bypass method to get her moving when this happens. It seems to be doing it more often lately. Also I recently has a cruise control issue. Hit the brake to shut it off and it doesn't stop it! Not sure if the 2 are related. The internet said I need to replace the switch on the master cylinder to fix the cruise control. I got lots of different stories on the park issue.
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