Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F250 5.4L - Sluggish / Low Idle And Stalling At Stops
Sep 28, 2012
Bought this truck a few months back. Nothing but problems. I always thought it has felt a little underpowered and hesitant. I chalked it up to being a 5.4l in a f250. Well now im thinking it has been a symptom all along.
Lately, the truck has been stalling at stops. Randomly, but not often. The truck idles at 750rpm when I start it, but after driving and then coming to a stop while in overdrive it idles at 400rpm. This seems too low to me.
It hesitates occasionally when giving it throttle. Just today it got really bad and was almost unresponsive. I would hit the throttle and it would just idle while randomly kind of shooting up in RPS and shuddering. It finally produced some error codes, it looks like, but I am afraid to drive it all the way to the autozone.
I am thinking TPS. Is the TPS attached to the pedal or is the TPS attached to throttle body under the hood? I've read some conflicting stuff about this. The good news is that if it is the TPS then it should act like a whole new truck after I replace it.
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I just purchased a 2012 F250 XLT with the 6.2. It has 38,000 miles on it. Yesterday I noticed, when coming to a stop, the idle will sometimes drop below 500. The engine will stumble a little, then the RPM will jump up to 1,000. Twice it has stalled on me. When it stalls, the engine will restart just fine. No codes in the computer or warning lights on the dash.
I will be bringing it back to carmax, as it is under their 30 day warranty still. Hopefully they will be able to figure out something. I am thinking either the TB needs to be cleaned, or there is an issue with the canister purge valve. I saw the TSB for the CPV but it doesn't cover my truck.
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The 2003 F250 5.4 Superduty has no power and keeps stalling. If I floor the gas it just stalls. I've replaced the pcv valve and line, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump, and cleaned the tank, changed out the gas, added Lucas, and it just won't run right. Desperate, and no codes are coming up...
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I've got a 2006 f250 with 160,000 miles, trans was rebuilt by previous owner about 10,000 miles ago. The tow/haul light started blinking yesterday, only blinks for first couple of minutes of driving and then stops. Service engine light popped on today as well. Won't have access to a code reader until tomorrow, but looking for some preliminary info...
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2016 F250SD XLT CC 4X4...13K miles... Now with it being blazing hot in Florida I have been running windows up and a/c on. Beginning to notice the truck is not accelerating the same with the a/c on as it does with the a/c off. It seems like it sluggish till it gets to a certain RPMs then you feel it kick in and somewhat take off. Is this normal?
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Having problems with no heat at idle or low heat in the cab. I just bought this truck a couple weeks ago and have a limited warranty on it. The truck makes no heat at idle. I start it and let it just run, engine temp gauge goes up to normal operating temp in 15 min or so, still nothing from the vents but cold air. If I drive it I get a "little" heat, at idle, cold air again. I believe the thermostat is working because like I said, engine temp stays right in the middle.
Brought it to local ford dealer, their diagnosis was heat core clogged and needed to be flushed, had that done. truck has been running 40 minutes in the driveway now, engine temps nice and warm, no heat. What could be the issue? I took a picture of what I believe are the lines running to the heater core, just barely warm to the touch, not hot by any means. It looks like there is a vacuum actuator on the line running in but there is no hose attached to it, what this it, should it have a line running to it?
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Ok I bought this truck with a bad engine 5.4 3v had rod knocking. I rebuilt engine got it all back together and in truck. I did replace cam phasers and solenoids. After driving 20 mins or so it would start the phaser knock at idle in gear so I put a oil pressure gauge on it and cold had 55 psi after running 10 mins or so had 15 psi at idle then would drop to abought 9 psi. I am thinking I got bad cam bearings or something for some reason don't know why. I did it but I took oil cap off where you pour in the oil. Had to force it off it was pulling that much vaccum ones cap was off oil pressure jumped up to 25 psi. What could be causing this.
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just bought a 01 f350 v10, 40,000 miles, plowing beast, anyways when taking off truck seems sluggish, give it more gas as its fine. At idle there appears to be a skip. There are no check engine lights on, could it be the coil pack or even maybe fuel problem? Have done plenty to this beast to get it close to perfect and this motor issue is it.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 5.4l the symptoms are when it's warm it has half power and it will stall at idle. What I have done with the truck is.
New cam phasers
new chain
new tensioners
new vct solenoids
new oil pump
new plugs
new ignition coils
new stock cam shafts
new rockers
new lash adjusters
new exhaust manifolds both sides
new muffler
oil change with the right oil
ran it with sea foam in the crankcase before oil change
new fuel pump module
new evap vent control
new abs speed sensor
I cleaned throttle body with brake cleaner ... Scanned it after a 15 min ride of having to use 2 feet to drive it. The engine codes that came up are p0022 iacv short to ground and p1000 readiness test not complete. I also got p1804 4 wheel drive high indicator circuit failure p1808 4 wheel drive low indicator circuit failure .... Not sure what else to try.
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I have a question for everyone out there with any insight of the harsh shifting with these trucks. I have a 2003 f250 super duty with the 5.4l and 126,000 miles on it. The problem I'm having is some weird shifting that has been going on over the last six months and I feel like I am just throwing money at this problem. My truck shifts hard from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th with the most violent shifts being from 3rd to 4th! Between shifts is where it Is sluggish I mean if I am not on the throttle from those shift points I switch from driving a truck to a geo metro it is night and day with the felling of loss of power!
I have had it scanned at my local ford dealership and had a full diagnostics done and all I got was "it's since truck and a nice bill to come with it" they couldn't find a thing. So far I have all new motorcraft plugs, cops, changed fuel filter, had my catalytic converter checked if it was clogged,run on two different power balance tests! Still nothing! So now I'm lost I have heard things about these trannys and the lock up but I was told this only had to do with overdrive and it wouldn't happen at other gear changes. I still drive it everyday I have just figured out ways to calm it down if I stay off the gas when it's about to shift for a couple seconds then get back on the gas it is like it never happened.
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1999 F250 .. Blower works some times then for no reason stops. When it works, I have all speeds, it makes no odd noises. I shut the engine off and then it does not work. I have power to the blower motor even when it is not working. I doubt it is the speed resistor module because that is not used in high speed. I've taken the blower motor out of its housing and pulled the resistor module as well. I find nothing wrong, power it up and the blower works. I put it all back together and it does not work.
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I bought my son a 07 F250. 5.4L and he tells me it is dying on him, it started out with it trying to die when going into reverse, now he can't keep it running much at all. He took it to the Firestone shop and they are telling him one of the camshafts is probably bad... I highly doubt it. And a new 3k motor is what he needs...
The truck has 145k on it and has been well maintained and just had the oil and fluids changed. Air filter is good, battery is new as well. Only thing I can think of is to clean the throttle body and air meter, he lives 200 miles away so it is hard to troubleshoot over the phone. Any pointers to look at? possible vacuum leak somewhere?
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I have a 2000 F-250 Diesel that has started acting strangely. It starts and runs well, but every once in a while the peddle just stops working. Might be a second or so and then the RPM will go up. Or you may be running down the road and all of the sudden it just stops acting like it is getting enough fuel. Same thing it might last a second or so. Sometimes it might happen 4-5 times in a row over a few minutes and might not happen again for a day. Truck does not stall when this happens. It just does not go like it should.
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Just started having this issues on my 2012 F250 6.7 with 71K. Turn the key and no problems. Once I start my truck service advance track pops up, along with the e-brake light and some other lights before all shutting off. I then loose all functions in my instrument cluster, window controls, AC/heat controls. The truck still runs and drives with no problems I just have no dash functions. My blinkers and headlights still work (with no cluster indicating). Fog lights do not work. Turn the truck on and off and the problem repeats itself.
I did get stuck in a massive rain storm with some big puddles last night. Went to dinner and started having the problems on the way home. The functions were temperamental last night but seem to be worse today.
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I have a 2001 F250 V10. It idles around 1k and when stopped at stop lights or when put in reverse it stalls. I have replaced IAC, fuel filter, tranny filter, oil filter, plugs, coil boots, tranny fluid, oil, air filter, and PVC along with the PVC hose. I'm totally stumped. It doesn't stall if I do a rolling stop.
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I have an 04 F250 4x4 king ranch with a 6.8 V10.
When I first bought this truck it had a problem of stalling out at stops. You could sometimes hold the brake and gas and push your way through it but it would sputter for a second and try to die and then it was fine once you got going. The OD light would flash, check engine light would come on and it would throw a P0720 code for the OSS. I did some researching and I pulled the sensor in the pumpkin before that because I read that could cause the same problem, so I cleaned it and put it back but it didn't solve the issue. Then found that an K&N air filter can often times clog the MAF and cause the issue so I pulled my air filter and sure enough it was a K&N, I swapped it with a normal filter and sprayed some MAF cleaner and its been running like a top for months... until now.
It started again, gradually at first. It would die when I started to back the truck at a very low speed to load my 4 wheeler. I fired it up and it was good again for a couple more weeks, then I went to hook to a horse trailer and I was having to back up a hill to get to it, and it just kept dying, OD light would flash, check engine light came on. I was in a bind so I just tried wiping off the MAF with a rag, that didn't work, my girlfriend was using the truck and said it kept dying whenever she stopped. I got it home and cleaned the MAF with cleaner really well but the problem persisted. I went ahead and changed my oil, spark plugs(gaped at .052-.054), replaced the IAC(which looked like it had been installed once before so I am guessing someone tried it and when it didn't fix the problem they returned it) and changed the fuel filter. I drove it around and it ran fine, drove it to work and it ran fine, my girlfriend took it for about 15 minutes to run an errand for me and it was fine until she got back in the parking lot and liked to never got it parked again it stalled so much.
So I went back to the drawing board and read that it is rarely the OSS that is the problem but that often times the issue is a bad coil pack. I don't have a scanner nor do I know how the heck to use one. I plan on going out of town at the end of the week and the truck has 194k miles on it so rather then take it to a shop and try to find out which COP was bad I just decided to replace all of them(I know, I know, you should never just start replacing parts). I only had time to replace 5 of them, I took the truck out and again it dove fine for an hour, went through traffic OK. It sat for an hour and when I left it started to die again, I could drop it in neutral and it would fire back up and as long as I gave it just a hair of throttle it stayed running fine, take my foot off the fuel and in a minute it would die again. After I drove for a bit it was fine again. Now I know the problem may yet be in the remaining 5 COP that I must change tonight but in case it is not I wanted to get input on this.
I've read the problem can come from a bad ground, so I took every ground point that I could find under the hood and I cleaned the connectors and took the paint off at the connection site just for good measure. The problem persists. I've read that sometimes a diode can go out on the alternator and cause this problem, I did use my amp meter and I'm checking out at 13 volts while running. I'm not the best with meters so I'm not sure how else to check the diode?
I've also read that taking it to a dealership is hit or miss for them diagnosing the problem, sometimes they find the issue, sometimes they just change the OSS. The only mechanic I trust closed his shop and is now service manager of the Dodge dealership. I'm thinking since this seems to be a common problem that maybe ford might have more knowledge of it then dodge but I trust the dodge dealership more because of who is over it. Either way I know it will sit in a dealership for awhile before it ever gets looked at and if they have to chase any electrical problems then that starts racking up $$ fast.
So what am I missing? I've thought about replacing the MAF since cleaning it the first time solved the problem. When it did this the first time I still had my 01 F250(it never gave me problems like this) and so I took the MAF off of it and swapped them and sure enough it fixed my problem so I switched them back after I cleaned the MAF and like I said it's been running fine until recently. I'd rather not throw money at this by replacing parts and hoping for the best. I've also read about tracing the harness that runs from the sensor on the pumpkin to the OSS and on. That harness runs through all kinds of stuff so I'm dreading that but it will also be a next step. I haven't pulled the OSS because its in a very awkward position on my truck.
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My '05 (134k, rwd, V10) has had an occasional issue with stalling when going into neutral. The normal idle speed in park or neutral is 700. In drive or reverse it dips down to 350 or so and then evens out at 500. The stalling is not all the time, perhaps 2 out of 10 shifts. It is slightly worse with the A/C running. Every time it stalls, it records a P0506 error which I then clear out with my ScanGauge II.
I have done some research and have replaced the air filter (super dirty), fuel filter (not sure on how old) and cleaned the MAF tonight. For the MAF, I pulled it from the air tube and gave it a bunch of squirts of MAF cleaner. I did this 3 times letting it dry in between cleanings. I have run a bottle of SeaFoam through it, as well. The idle seems to be very smooth and it pulls my 7k travel trailer without issue. That did get a little better with the new air filter and fuel filter.
I went for a ride tonight and the problem persists. I'm taking it in to have the A/C recharged next week and will have the shop diagnose it. I came across this post which details my issue exactly. The steps are to reprogram the PCM and TCM, and possibly replace the throttle body. Is the reprogram something an independent shop can/should do?
P0506 idle lower than expected on 05 ford f350 v10
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I changed the IAC valve 2 months ago because my truck kept stalling when idling down on a cold start and that fixed the problem. A few days days ago when starting it started revving to 2 - 3 K and won't IDLE down now? I changed the IAC again and that didn't work. What else should I be looking at to stop it from revving so high?
2001 F250 5.4 111,000 miles super duty.
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Here is this wonderful 5.4 's issue now, sometimes it will idle rough, sometimes it wont. sometimes it feels like it wants to stall, other times not. if im driving about 30mph up a hill around 1700 rpm, the engine feels like a bucking horse, it will kinda want to produce the power, but cant seem to find it till the trans drops to a lower gear. With this engine power loss is unacceptable because it came out of the factory with no power, i cant afford to loose more.
there is no check engine light. its been doing this on and off for a week. i dont drive it much, may 15 miles a day. i thought maybe it was bad gas , i had it sitting for a month, but since then ran almost 2 tanks of gas through it. Seems to act the worst when driving it, then letting it idle for 5 mins, then drive it again, that's when its very noticeable. no smoke from exhaust, no mixing of oil and anti freeze, plugs are a year old, filter is new.
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I have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 V10 with about 70,000 miles on it and now the gauge indicates low pressure when my warmed up truck idles around 1000 RPM.
I went off road the other day into some mud and since then I have had my oil pressure gauge reporting low at idle and normal when moving.
I was a quart and 1/2 low on oil which I filled and the next day I changed the oil. I then had taken it Ford shop who replaced the oil sensor and said all fixed. It wasn't and I took it back in ... now the mechanic indicated it is probably the crankshaft bearing based on his experience and I should replace the engine.
This seems drastic? Wouldnt' the next step to go check/replace the oil pump?
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