Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F250 5.4L Auto 4x4 - No Crank / Only Got A Click When Turning Key
Jul 1, 2015
Only got a click when turning key, in Park or Neutral. Made sure I had >12.4V from battery. Jumped starter solenoid with a remote start switch across main power line to starter and the 's' post, crank pulley almost moved, but didn't rotate. Removed belt, all pulleys rotate, but could not budge the crank pulley with a short breaker bar/socket, rotating clockwise from front. Removed starter, that upper bolt is a super pain! Not even sure I'll get it back in. Jumped starter solenoid again on the bench using a battery and jumpers, not the best connections, starter hesitated little bit, but opened up fully a few times, so I'm thinking it's ok (even though the power line from the solenoid to starter motor needs re-taping). Tried rotating flywheel from starter hole, no good leverage point, but no movement. Before I re-install the starter, how much torque should I be putting on the front crank pulley? Some say it should move easy enough cause the starter isn't that powerful. Others say remove the spark plugs to reduce compression? This truck is new to me, so I unfortunately have no history.
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I have a 2006 F250 with the 6.0 PowerStroke and automatic transmission. I just purchased this truck at an auction about a month ago.
Today I notice the transmission is not shifting into overdrive. No warning lights. If I press the tow/haul button in no change but the tow/haul light does come on. If I press it again (to turn it off) the tow/haul light goes out but still the transmission will not shift into overdrive.
This leaves me at about 2000 RPM at 68 MPH. I just had a Ford dealer perform Transmission service last week. (20,000 miles after the last recorded service.)
I am already not happy with the service I received at the dealer so I am really hesitant to take it back to them if it is something not related to the transmission service they performed.
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I work for the transportation department at a school and we have a bunch of 6.0 f350/450 busses and this bus I am working on has a no crank condition. Bus in question is a 2006 F450 6.0.
Currently if you turn the key to start the engine the solenoid just clicks but the engine wont crank. The person working on it before me assumed that the batteries and or starter were bad so they were replaced(0 miles on them right now) but the problem still persists.
First thing I did when I started working on this bus was jumping the starter relay and the starter engages and starts the engine perfectly. That being said I know the starter wiring is fine.
Secondly I looked through the wiring diagrams and saw that the PCM grounds the 85 terminal on the starter relay so I tried grounding the 85 and I was able to crank the engine with the key so that was telling me that the actual starter relay is fine. Next I went and swapped the PCM with another 2006 f450 thinking maybe the grounding switch in the PCM was bad and I have the same no crank condition. The PCM from the bus in question was swapped to the doner bus and it cranked perfectly(PCM in question is fine).
Next thing I did was look up all of the ground locations for the PCM or anything to do with the starter and they were all cleaned and still have the same no crank.
Looking around on the internet I see that the viscous fan can cause a problem if it shorts out so I unplugged that and no change in the no crank. I also saw that the trans range sensor could cause a no crank condition but I am getting back up lights/beeper and the bus "wants" to crank so I am thinking that the TRS is not the problem.
Lastly I tried hooking my Modis scanner up to this bus and was NOT able to communicate with either of the PCM's I tried. Not sure if this is related to my no crank condition. I checked all of the wiring that I could but could not find any chafing or breaks in any of the OBDII wiring. My planned next step is to replace the TRS...
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I just recently purchased my 06 Ford F-250 it's got the 6.0 in it once I made a 6hr trip I've noticed once you warm it up and ride a little bit kill it let set for 30min or better and crank it up it blows white smoke for a min or two than on the way to work this morning my heater.
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I have an 02 F250 6.8 with 51,000 miles on it. I recently replaced the battery about a week ago, and only actually drove it yesterday for the first time since replacing the battery. I drove it about 25 miles, parked, and when I went to restart, it wouldn't. The starter doesn't crank, so I mean its not a cranking issue as in cranking, and not starting. It only clicks at the relay when turning the key. It acts like when you try to use a wrong chip coded key.
All of the dash lights came on, and I can hear the relay clicking, but that's it. I swapped the relays around, and no luck. If I let it sit a while, about an hour, it will fire right up. The battery cables are tight and free of corrosion. I am curious, since I just put in a new battery, could this be the culprit? Why will it start fine cold, but not hot? I have NEVER had an issue with this truck until now.
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My 2000 F-250 V10 won't start has a new alternator and new starter all it does is Click when I turn the key?
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So I noticed the past few days my 09 F250 was clunking in the front end when turning hard even with the hubs in auto so I knew there was an issue in there somewhere. This morning I took the jack and found the passenger side would not release no matter which way the lock was turned. Pulled the locking assembly out and found a couple of the pieces of plastic cage broken (truck has 250k miles) which is to be expected I guess but the locking ring that holds the inner piece that slides over the axle stub was off and hanging next to the c-clip on the axle.
So with the plastic of the cage already being broke and the mileage on the truck it's clear I need a new lock for that side.
Here's my dilemma, I have to deliver a conference room table 200 miles away tomorrow morning that they need for meeting tomorrow afternoon at 3:00pm. I cut the rest of the plastic pieces and took the gears out leaving just the cover with the diaphragm and put it back on the hub. I can't come up with any logical reason why I can't drive the truck this way but just want to bounce it off the experts here before I take off on a 400 mile trip in the morning. The only thing I can come up with is if I were to engage the 4wd the vacuum might suck the auto-lock diaphragm in and pop it but otherwise I can't find any reason to not run it this way, the hub is still sealed up and free-wheeling just like if it were in 2wd anyway.
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I am changing my 99 f250 4x4 from auto to manual tranny. I am just looking for pics of where the hydro line runs. I don't want line rubbing something and ruining line. Like does line run under the cab wiring harness? Like between wiring and firewall? Where on firewall does reservior get mounted usually? Are the holes all ready there for it that I am not seeing?
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My 2010 F350 shudders when turning right. From what I read it could be the auto locking hubs not dis-engaging or sticking in the locked position. Tutorials show it's pretty easy to pull the auto locking Hub out taking out the three screws holding it in place. My questions is what type of grease do I need to apply to the auto locking hub once I have them out and determine that is what the issue is?
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2001, F250, Lariat, Super Duty, 7.3 engine with towing package.
It ran seemingly perfect when I parked it and it sat for maybe 10 days to 2 weeks and wouldn't crank. Battery is fine and fully charged. Glow plug heaters work OK. Engine spins really fast, almost like it had no compression. (Not sure though) Temperature in the 30's -50's. I did some research on line and decided to change the Cam Positioning Sensor (CPS). Didn't work, still won't crank. I originally tried my Cheap Harbor Freight OBDII . (Don't waste your money, IMO). What should I troubleshoot next/ or try.
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Ok I have a 99 f250sd v10 with 180k miles. Original owner and have most work my self over the years. Son took the truck to fill it up, started fine ,filled it up and now will not start. It has power but will not crank. Tries to but no good. I was thinking battery died. New battery same results. Sort of tried to start but not turning over. With the new battery i tried several times then nothing. No power at all. No lights, nothing. So I put the old battery back in and still no power at all. I'm thinking the starter is toast and my repeated attempts to start that I pulled too many amps and blew a master fuse? It stilling in a parking lot until tonight when I can tow it home. Where to start.
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2009 F250 Super Duty 4X4 auto lock hubs not working. Indicator lights on dash come on but will only go into 4 wheel drive when hubs are locked manually. Vacuum is present at lower of the two vacuum lines when engine is running. I attach the lower line to the module, rotate switch to 4X4 high or low and module doesn't allow vacuum to reach upper nipple. Which fuse operates this module?
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2001 F-250 7.3. The auto lock hubs are not working on the truck lock hubs in and all works fine. First thought is the vacuum system has a leak or something of the sort. Had truck at the shop they are telling me the GEM module controls the vacuum to engage the auto hubs and the signal is not coming from the GEM and it need to be replaced. It was the GEM causing the problem.
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Ok i have a 99 f250 with a 6.8 v10 that is not turning over at all. I have checked the battery and its good. I have replaced the starter and the starter relay and have tested the starter and its good too. I have also used a volt meter on the batter, starter, and relay and looked at the relevant info and they are all in the correct volt range. I have also taken the starter off and looked at the flywheel and it has good teeth so thats not an issue. I am completely stumped now as to what it could be?
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Let me start out by saying that I have exhausted every option that I have read on every thread that I could find on the internet regarding my son's 2002 7.3L not starting. What I have is no 12v power to the starter solenoid at the starter when I crank the key. What we have done so far, had the starter and both batteries tested, all good. Swapped out the starter motor fuse and the starter relay. Tried a new ignition switch and a new trans position sensor. Found major corrosion in the fusible link junction box on the drivers inner fender so we cut out the fusible links and put in a temporary jumper wire, still no crank. I have power to the dash, power on the power cable at the starter. I can jump the terminals on the starter and the starter engages. I found the shifter linkage bolts loose under the dash and tightened them up also. We have been struggling with this for 3 days, out in the lovely Michigan weather, since it couldn't have died in his parking spot in our heated shop, and I am completely frustrated. Are we overlooking something glaringly obvious?
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I have a 99 f250 sd with v10 that has no power. Will crank, idle and die sometimes. Getting codes p0351 - p0355. No power when driving.
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I have 08 f250 6.4 was driving down the road truck just died. Will turn over but not crank. I've checked oil level, water level, fuses, fuel cut off switch. Still no start.
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On occasion, the last 2 weeks, my truck doesn't like to start, sometimes it will start to crank for one second and then quit. i've tried moving my gear shift through the drive selection range (park, neutral, reverse and drive). i just replaced the starter relay on the fender well because i can always start the truck by jumping across the terminals... no joy. So now ( i think) my issue is between the key switch and the starter relay. i replaced the neutral safety switch about 18 months ago.
99 F250 V10 short bed, 123,000 miles ....
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We got a ton of snow dumped on us today and for some reason my 4WD has decided not to work this year. I have a 2000 F250 4WD Triton V10. The hubs click into the lock position and the dial on the dash lights up 4x4 but I am definitively not engaging into 4WD. I'm pissed because this is specifically the reason i bought a 4WD and it's failing me. I can't find a fuse panel diagram to save my life however all the fuses in the interior of truck look to be fine.
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I have a 2000 f250 CCSB 4x4 with the ESOF auto hubs. The auto hubs won't engage automatically. They work fine manually. The transfer case is engaging and correct lights are coming on. There is a little bit of vacuum coming from the vacuum switch but it doesn't seem like much to me. All the dash HVAC controls work fine though. I Lubed and cleaned inside the hubs according to Guzzles directions.
While torn down, I blew through the vacuum port on the outside of the hub and there was little to no restriction. I don't think there is enough vacuum to pull the hubs, but is that possible if all the dash controls work fine? What pressure should it take to engage them? My next step is to pick up a vacuum pump and see if I can engage them with it.
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I have been trouble shooting a no crank no start issue for a couple years now. Been back to the dealer several times to no avail. Very long story, with all due respect, don't suggest that I go back to the dealer on this. Not happening. Every once in a while the truck would strand me with no crank no start. It would read trailer brake module fault. Sometimes the security light would flash and the alarm would sound. Recently, I have had it on IDS and noticed that while it was doing this, IDS had no communication to the ECU.
I checked IDS with my other truck and it had good communication with that ECU so I know the computer/IDS works. Pulled battery cables and checked all the fuses... checked ok. Went back in the truck tried it, still no crank. Left key on, popped hood to listen for fuel pump... nothing. Went to pop cover off the fuse block and as soon as I touched it the fuel pump started whining. Went back in the truck and it started. Plugged IDS back in and had good communication and read ECU. I googled around for a part number but came up empty.
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