Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F250 5.4 - Engine Misfires?
Oct 9, 2016
Ok I rebuilt the engine in my f250 5.4 3v. Timing set cam phasers and oil control valves are new. The problem I'm having that just started after 5k miles on a new engine is all of a sudden i will start getting misfires 1st time it happened said #6 i changed coil same problem came back this time said multiple misfires now I'm just getting #4. When the misfires happen if i hold throttle where it is it will misfire as long as i hold it there if I let off gas then apply right back misfires stop for several miles then will happen again. I have changed fuel pump and fuel pump driver module same problem exist.
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I have spent alot of time looking through threads about v10's misfiring and have not been able to resolve my issue. I recently purchased a 2000 v10 f250 with about 220000 miles on it I bought it knowing it had one miss fire but now I have a total of three. Te truck has no problems accelerating but at a little over 40 mph the engine shakes quite noticeably and after 60 i5 seems to smooth out. After alot of reading I replaced all of my plugs and ignition coils, ran a can of sea foam through my gas tank and my intake with no change to the miss fires. I have started my trials with the fuel injectors by switching them from miss firing cylinders to ones that aren't. Some other information is my truck has no egr on my intake.
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I have an 2003 F250 7.3 Diesel 4wd. Yesterday I knew I was low on fuel but I don't think I ran out of diesel. My gauge was above the "E". 50 miles left on my overhead readout, but you never know. All of a sudden the truck misfires and is running very rough before it dies on me. I get it towed home.
Thinking that it possible I ran out of fuel and screwed up my fuel pump, I bought a new fuel pump and fuel filter, installed them and I have the same symptoms. I am guessing I lost my prime, who knows. I have 180,000 miles on it and haven't ever had engine problems.
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2003 F-250 SD 4x4 w/5.4L engine and 4R100 trans (pic in sig) . Truck has 280K on it with about 40K on a partial rebuild on the top end.
Took the truck out offroading and got about 4" from the top of the 33" tire in water (not mud.. water) . Someone with 6' tractor tore through the puddle.....
Well the truck survived through it ... albeit dirty as all hell and developed some issues soon thereafter. Codes for misfires on cyl 1,3,6,7, general ignition coil, etc etc etc
Power washed the underbody , washed the mud off the engine bay (yeah... with water but given it was caked with mud and water to fill the plug wells... no additional harm) .
Replaced all 8 COP and 4 plugs ( easier ones to reach), oil change, oil filter, new paper cone filter. checked most all the harness connections and cleaned with alcohol also. Reset the PCM/ECU and drove the truck for about 100miles and finally just after putting a full tank of gas (92 Octane) I throw a P0325...
The engine runs very clean, no hesitation, smooth idle, smooth acceleration on both light and hard acceleration. Just the damn code. Is it the gas I just topped off? After 100+ miles with new COP and plugs it threw nothing until this and runs great. Dont hear any knock/ping/detonation by ear and feels silky smooth at idle.
I really dont want to have to tear the intake off to replace bank 1 knock...
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I have a 2006 f-250 powerstroke with 97000 on it egr delete exhaust and a h and s xrt pro on it. The pickup will always start when the engine and oil is cool, but once i run it for a while it and the oil gets warm it wont start back up again. I then have to leave it sit for a while and it will start. The engine just cranks but does not fire. I have replaced the dummy plugs on both sides and all the injector o rings on the passenger side. Some mechanic friends of min have had same problemed 6.0 liters and replaced these and it has fixed the problems I do not think it my high pressure pump.
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I replaced the head gaskets on a 2006 F250 6.0 Diesel, put it all back together and started it up. It ran great for a lil bit, then it started cutting out. It did this for about an hour then I killed it and it took a little bit to restart it, spinning over and over to get it to run, this took place several times. The engine died and now it will not start. I keep getting codes P2284 and P2290. What could be causing this problem??
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My dad has a 2006 F-250 5.4 3v that spun a rod bearing at 107,383 miles. He's never been thrilled with the performance of it (told him he should have gotten the 6.0 when he bought the truck new, but why listen to a 15 yr old ). We've been throwing around a couple different ideas for engine swaps since the 5.4 is dead. We scored a 5.4 2V Lightning engine, but after trying to figure out transmission controllers or if we'd be able to tune the stock PCM for the 2v, we've put the project on hold.
Recently, I've been trying to convince him to do a diesel swap over the L-motor. I have a friend selling a cheap 99 7.3 with trans, PCM, harness, intercooler, piping and other misc stuff. Would that harness generally be plug and play with the body of the 06? Would it be more worthwhile to try to find a 6.0 from 05-07 and swap everything over?
I've also been considering a Cummins swap, although I haven't gone much past looking at complete engines on eBay and Craigslist. Would this be the better route, and just get a standalone controller for the 5R110?
So I'm looking for other's opinions. Should we go 7.3, 6.0 or Cummins? Should we stick with gas over diesel? Try to make the Lightning motor work? Or just go back with a stock 5.4 3V? I should say, he won't sell the truck for whatever reason, so he's not worried about resale or anything. We're in Michigan, so we don't have to worry about emissions. And we're fairly mechanically inclined, so I'm not too worried about doing the swaps, however my knowledge on diesels is limited.
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I have an 06 f250 6.0 when I'm driving and let off the throttle and coast I hear a rattling sound like a spray paint can being shaked sounds like its coming from engine compartment.
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While driving today, 2006 Ford F-250 5.4 L V8 138,000 miles , I experienced a problem. Started with the truck acting as if it was running rough, possibly missing. This was approx. 10 Minutes after starting. Checked the dash, no warning indicators and all gauges were normal. Approx. 4 more miles, the oil pressure alarm signals and I see the oil gauge has dropped to zero. I pull over, turn off and check the oil. Oil is clean and at a normal level. I restart the truck and the oil pressure goes back to normal.
Rev the truck up while sitting there and after a few seconds i hear a knocking noise in the engine and oil pressure drops again. Call the tow truck, driver used to be a mechanic . He asks me to start it again and the same thing happens. If you start it and let it idle oil pressure seems to go up to normal with no engine noise. Finally get to the mechanic and he calls me later saying the oil pump and screen may need to be replaced or the engine may need to be replaced.
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My 99 v10 is having a random multiple misfire, it showed an 0300 a few weeks ago. since then i have replaced plugs, 2-cops/boots,dpfe,egr, did a vacuum check,fuel pressure at 28, and i'm sure i'm forgetting something. I drove down to napa today for some sea foam (15 miles) and it drove like new, when i started it up to come home it started missing again, it starts easily and i can press the gas and go, but i can still feel the misfire...
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Looking for a tutorial on how to add the fog lamps to an 06 f250 superduty? I have an xlt with the fog lamp switch just need to install the after market fog lamps they are leds.
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Last week I flipped the fan switch on and noticed that only hot air was coming from the vents, even with the control set to AC. The vent control switch seems to work fine directing the air but only hot air. The temperature control does not work. The exception is when I put it on max AC I get cold air. I can't be the only one.
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2006 F250 5.4 - While driving ac changes from vent to defrost on it own..let off gas and it will change back to vent. I replaced vacuum can under hood.. no luck.....
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I bought this truck used and it is my first F-250. I took it to the shop last week and they found a few things and a cracked radiator was one. They replaced the radiator with a new one. I heard the sound before the new radiator and I still hear it now. The coolant level is not dropping and the engine is not over heating (also no fluid on the ground). Is this a normal cool down sound?
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I know there is a motor or switch that I can remember the name of that is in the dash somewhere that controls the Defrost and regular cabin flow. I am not good with A/C, and was wondering, what is the name of it, and is it something I can get to behind the glove box or is it very complicated?
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I have an 06 F-250. I have had this truck since Oct 2013 and had never use 4 wheel drive here in southern Alabama, so my question is i lock my hubs, turn my selector to 4 high and it works. Now selecting to 4 low and I get nothing.
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I am new to the Superduty and the Diesel world. I just purchased a used 2006 F250 SD XLT with 79K miles on it. This truck has a brand new 6 inch rancho lift. I just bought brand new 35x12.50x18 toyo open country AT tires and new 18 inch rims. I have the steering box replaced, new brakes all the way around, front end alignment and the Turbo pedestal secured.
However, I am still getting a vibration in the floor going down the highway when i hit 70MPH under acceleration? Once I let off the gas the noise goes away.
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0 with 100000 started having low power when taking of from a stop. Then got a strong diesel smell and then the check engine light came on. I checked codes and got a p0470 and a p0299 pending. Where to start. I am new to diesels but I have a strong mechanical back ground.
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Having problems with no heat at idle or low heat in the cab. I just bought this truck a couple weeks ago and have a limited warranty on it. The truck makes no heat at idle. I start it and let it just run, engine temp gauge goes up to normal operating temp in 15 min or so, still nothing from the vents but cold air. If I drive it I get a "little" heat, at idle, cold air again. I believe the thermostat is working because like I said, engine temp stays right in the middle.
Brought it to local ford dealer, their diagnosis was heat core clogged and needed to be flushed, had that done. truck has been running 40 minutes in the driveway now, engine temps nice and warm, no heat. What could be the issue? I took a picture of what I believe are the lines running to the heater core, just barely warm to the touch, not hot by any means. It looks like there is a vacuum actuator on the line running in but there is no hose attached to it, what this it, should it have a line running to it?
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I have a 2006 F250 V10 that has this issue most of the time but not all the time. Start her up, foot on brake and the shifter wont move. I use the bypass method to get her moving when this happens. It seems to be doing it more often lately. Also I recently has a cruise control issue. Hit the brake to shut it off and it doesn't stop it! Not sure if the 2 are related. The internet said I need to replace the switch on the master cylinder to fix the cruise control. I got lots of different stories on the park issue.
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Wanted to get feedback if it is a good idea to change the oil the very first time in a new truck sooner to ensure no engine breakin contaminates get in the engine?
I have a new F250 6.2 that I have put 1300 miles on in the last month. First 1k break in, last 300 miles towing 8k. Was thinking of doing the first change at 1500 miles and then every 5000 miles after at that point.
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