Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 - A/C Clutch Seized - Replace Bearing And Pulley?
Jun 6, 2015
i replaced my a/c compressor on my 2006 f-250 2 yrs ago but had not refilled with r134..only the pag oil. Now i decide to refill seeing my wife uses the truck and compressor would not engage, i was able to bypass it by removing relay and jumping it with a paperclip. Compressor started up but seems to have seized on pully. the pulley seems fine and still turning freely. I can no longer turn it manually when truck is stopped and i could before i jumped it. could the clutch only be replaced or does the bearing and pulley have to be replaced
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I am not sure which it is but I cannot turn the pulley by hand. How do you tell if the pulley is bad or the whole compressor? I went out to start the truck and it wouldn't start. It died so I restarted it and then I seen the smoke from the front of the truck. I opened the hood and the flipping belt was just hanging there. Is there a way to just bypass the unit for now? I wont be needing the AC till summer and that is several months away.
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Need to replace the ac compressor bearing/pulley on my 2001 f350 7.3. My question is do I need a special tool like a pulley puller or is there another way to remove pulley? I already have the clutch assembly removed as well.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 5.4 Triton motor with a Transmission Leak. I have drained the Transmission, replaced the Transmission pan gasket and filter. The auto parts store also had me purchase the Torque Converter bearings/seal along with enough transmission fluid and a bottle of Lukas Transmission fix. Do I really need to replace the bearings/seal if I have everything else already ?
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I am needing to replace the front hub wheel bearing assemblies on my 03 F250 4x4. I know Ford changed the studs from coarse thread to fine thread in between the 02 and 03 model years. Mine has a build date of 08/02 and I haven't been able to find the exact date they switched over. I'm ordering the parts online and want to get it right the first time.
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2007 Accent pedal won't depress. Bearing making noise for a few months. Is tranny snout toast or is it fixable?
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2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
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I recently noticed my truck (2006 f250 v8) making some clicking noises on really sharp turns and also horrible grinding when stopping (like the brake pads were shot).
I replaced the pads a couple years ago, so I didn't then they were bad, but I took a look tonight. What I found was a couple of seals blown on both sides!
What these are and how this might have happened? They look the same on both sides. How do I replace them?
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Back in March while still plowing, my auto locking hubs wouldn't stay engaged. After talking to the local Ford service shop they told me that it was moisture in the vaccum lines and that it had frozen. They told me to manually lock the hubs and bring it in to be repaired when I had time. I made a appointment in the middle of May and finally got it in last week. Now the hubs are seized in the locked position and they will not warranty the work or parts because they say it was caused by the salt from our roads. Does this sound right?
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hey I have a 99 v10 Super duty that won't start it acts like the engine us seized the guy I bought it from says, that it just shut off at avred light and he couldn't get bit started since then when I try to. Start the truck it acts like the engine is seized. I checked the oil and coolant both are clean and full.no signs of leaks I heard it could be the ac pump stopping the belt from moving, whats wrong with my truck?!
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I have a 06 6.0 with 340000 miles on it believe it or not still pulls great. The problem is my clutch fan keeps roaring when I press the gas it's extremely loud all my gauges are fine so the truck isn't overheating? Also not a bad fan clutch I wasted 300 bucks on that and it's still doing the same thing.
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I recently purchased an '08 F-350 4x4 Lariet Supercab 6.4l and was told by the 3rd party inspection that it needs rear brake pads (2mm left). Are the caliper pistons retractable without having the pistons seize down the road? HOw about the fronts? See below.
I ask as on my '06 F-250 XLT 4x2 5.4l the rear calipers seized without even doing a pad change and the fronts seized about 100 miles after a pad change. Come to find out it is a common problem with the '06 and the calipers either have to be replaced or rebuilt when changing pads. Now I've been "told" to expect the same with the '08.
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Looking for a breakdown for installing a new clutch pack in the rear differential of my 06 F250 Diesel sterling 10.5. I found a kit on rockauto.com but it has 4 weird looking shim things I don't recognize, I rebuilt my diff in my 03 crown vic 8.8 but there's some extra pieces in this kit I don't recall.
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Noticed a burnt rubber smell while driving today. Stopped at a gas station and before I could get around to the other side of the truck, a guy stopped and told me there was smoke coming from the passenger rear wheel well. The truck seemed to run and drive fine. Didn't seem to be any noticeable drag, but once I got home I felt that wheel and it was a bit warmer than the others.
My parking brake pedal is all the way out and pulling on the release doesn't seem to relieve any pressure or "Pop" like it normally would if releasing the brake. We've got a good downpour of freezing rain right now and I'm not able to start pulling things apart. Anything easy I can try for now? Pretty sure it's seized by the way it's acting but I really don't use the parking brake. Auto trans and I live in a really flat area.
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So a few months ago I would occasionally hear what appeared to be a slight squealing noise from a pulley when I started my truck. It was very intermittent, so I didn't think much of it.
After a few weeks, I realized I was only hearing it on colder mornings - it would also go away rather quickly. I bought a mechanic's stethoscope, and figured I'd get to it on a slow day.
Today, I finally broke out the scope and tried to figure out the source. Didn't really find any pulleys making noise, and I did notice that when I shut the truck off, it squeaks for a second or two as it comes to a complete stop.
My dream of finding a bad pulley or perhaps a power steering pump was crushed. I had hoped to do a little Easter wrenching and put this noise to rest. So, I did what any good mechanic would do - I Googled the issue.
I'm reading that it could be the belt. Certainly wouldn't bother me too much as that is an easy fix. The belt isn't too old - about 4 years and 20 - 30K on it.
I took a few pics of the belt and can take a video of start/stop ....
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Actually the previous owner of my 7.3 Dually cut the muffler out and straight piped it, it's really not that loud but too much drone for long highway hauls.
What's a good replacement muffler for a 7.3? Wouldn't mind a little bit of sound, it already has an oversized tip.
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So, my 2004 F250, CCSB, Fx4, 6.0l, truck broke the carrier bearing today. There is an annoying hum that modulates, the drive shaft has a lot of play and there is light visible at the top of the bearing. The problem is that it broke on a 550 mile trip to Franklin, TN and I need to make the return trip. Is there anything catastrophic that can happen running it this way?
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How can you tell when your wheel bearing/hub assembly is going bad? I am hearing what sounds like "metal-on-metal" and I've already changed the brake pads, but the sound still persists. I was thinking about changing out the brake rotors since I did notice an inch long score on the rotor when I was replacing the pads. I don't want to spend a couple hundred dollars on rotors to find out it was my wheel bearing/hub assembly all along.
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I am looking to replace the carrier bearing and (u joints while I'm in there) on my 08 F-250. I do not have access to a lift so this will be done while on the ground. Am I asking for trouble by doing this on my back?
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Have a rear wheel bearing making some noise. A friend told me that it is always the outer bearing that goes first . Can you replace the bearing without replacing the race?
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I am not sure mine are done yet, but I was told by mechanic that they are failing and that the fronts aren't spinning as smooth as they should when up on the jack. They were investigating a sticky caliper at the time and said they believe heat from failing bearing caused that issue. I figured I'd do a little looking for parts pricing just incase. Does come with everything needed to change it? From reading, I found part # 73CZ-1104B is that the one?
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