Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 - Won't Start After Sitting For 5 Days - Slow Battery Drain?
Jul 19, 2017
Having problems with a slow drain on batteries? My truck wouldn't start after sitting for 5 days.
After recharging and starting it up once, I pulled the key, and disconnected the battery harness and checked for current on all the red wires in the harness. Only one drew current. I found the small red wire on the drivers side initially draws 470mA for 1 minute, then draws 22mA. In my experience in mobile audio, 22mA can drain a battery over several days.
Has anyone out there checked their 'dark current' draw? I have chased it all over and checked all the aftermarket add-ons and it comes down to something in the factory dash.
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If I leave my truck sit for a couple of days, the batteries are noticeably weaker. It's fine overnight, but two nights and it's slow to crank. Three and it won't start without charging the batteries. I checked for a drain last night and found that it was drawing 1.2 amps.
That seems like a lot, no?
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My battery on my 2008 SD goes down sometimes after the truck has been setting for a few days. This doesn't happen very often, and I've checked to see if I left something on that could have put a draw on it. I can find nothing that has caused it. I jump it off and might go a month before it happens again. I've got an add-on voltmeter that show voltage when the switch is on, and it's charging perfect. On older trucks, I would simply put a test light between the positive post and the cable and checked for a draw, but on the later model there is always a slight draw to keep memories alive.
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Within the last few weeks my super duty battery has been dead after sitting a few days. Draw is around 80 ma. When I pull the air bag fuse it drops to 10 ma. Before I tear in to this thing need to know where to start.
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I have a 2003, F250 SD, 5.0 with a weird problem no one can figure out. Now it doesn't matter what time of the year it is but after the truck sits a few days when I go to start it up it run roughs. Sometimes for a few seconds sometimes a few minutes then it "straightens" itself out. Recently it took almost a day to fix itself. No engine codes, no other symptoms.
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1995 Volvo 850 stationwagon has been dying when it sits for 3-5 days. At first I thought that it was due to the cold weather, so I was sure to drive it daily when it was snowing. But as it warmed up, my battery still drained after sitting for a couple days. Every time, I would call AAA and they would get it started no problem. I took it to a mechanic who did a basic "used car check" and didn't find anything with the starter, transmission, etc that would cause a battery drain.
My next step was to replace the battery, which I did a couple months ago. But alas, the battery has died once again. My thought is that it is due to an electrical issue? I have noticed that when driving, the speakers fade in and out based on whether I'm going uphill, or turning right or left . I thought that this was just a quirk but perhaps it's indicative of a greater electrical issue? I'm not sure what my next step should be?
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I bought a 2005 F350 in January of 2012. At the time of purchase, I noticed that the truck seemed slow to turn over. I talked the dealer into installing 2 new 750 CCA Ford batteries at the time of sale.
I have put less than 7,000 miles on the truck since the day I bought it. In August of 2012, I went to start the truck and the batteries were completely dead. I charged them, started the truck, and the next day the truck was dead again.
I took the batteries out, and took them to the dealer. They replaced both of them under warranty. They said that after they charged them, each tested at less than 85 CCA.
In July of 2013, the same thing happened. I used the truck one day, and then the next day the batteries were completely dead. I had them tested at the dealer, and the passenger side battery failed the test. The driver's side passed. They replaced the passenger side under warranty, again. This time, they also cleaned all battery / ground connections and tested the charging system. Everything passed.
Last week, I went to start the truck. Same thing again. Took the truck to the dealer, and both batteries, after charging, failed the test. They replaced both batteries under warranty.This time, on each battery, the dealer had written with yellow paint pen on the batteries AND on the radiator shroud "BATTERY NOT UNDER WARRANTY."
I asked the dealer about this, and they said that since they have replaced 5 batteries in the truck, and since it has 152,000 miles on it, the warranty is no longer valid. I argued that since they have checked the truck thoroughly, and found no issues with the charging system, they can't void the warranty like that.
So, what is the reason why the batteries would fail like that, and that frequently?
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I'm waiting on Christmas shopping to be over to replace the ICP and IPR on my '01 F250. In the mean time I have been going out every few days to crank it and let it run up to temp. Now, however, my batteries have slowly been getting drained over the past month, to where it finally wouldn't crank yesterday. So I'm wondering if I now have a drain somewhere, or is running it at idle for about 20 mins just not sufficient.
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Battery Drain of about 1.5 Amp. Internal fuse #5 pulled solves Drain (30ma).
What is schematic for this truck? What device/s are connected to this fuse?
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My truck has been sitting more lately, which means up to a week without starting and running. Each time this happens I run into a dead battery. And I mean dead. I've charged it fully and then used the truck no problem.
We did a test where we unhooked the negative terminal wiring clamp and ran a meter to check for amp draw. We did this by touching the meter leads to the negative post clamp (unhooked) and to the negative post on the battery. It gives a reading of ~1.5 amps. Trying to figure out where the drain might be.
Otherwise, we'll jut pull each fuse to see if we find the electrical area drawing the amps.
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The 5amp fuse 15, (Stop lite switch, GEM, PCM, 4WABS, Brake shift Interlock, Cluster 7 PCM-Keep Alive memory), is drawing 2.7 amps with key off.
The battery has gone dead two times overnight. The truck will start and run. I don't know where to proceed from this point to isolate the problem.
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2006 F250, 6.0, AT, 59K. Week and a half ago, started cranking slow. I charged the batteries and checked with a professional load tester. Both batteries good, but voltage was fluctuating and tester said charging system needs service (no battery light). I swapped in a remand alternator as a new was not available that day. It lasted 6 days and this time the battery light was intermittent.
I checked voltage and again it was fluctuating. I swapped in another remand unit and 3 days later, same thing, intermittent battery light and fluctuating voltage. I'm installing a new, not remand unit tomorrow. However, could a bad FICM cause this problem? I noticed that the engine seems louder (not the exhaust note) at idle. This truck is clean and I have no corrosion issues. What is the right direction to test the FICM?
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The last couple weeks my excursion had started to have a stumble and smoke white ate the first startup or after I let it sit for a long time. I did get progressively worse. I noticed the hpop line to the driver side head was leaking from the fitting so I rebuilt the boss fitting and now it's not leaking but when I started it up this morning it did the same thing.
If I give it throttle it clears up pretty quickly but if I let it just idle it will put white for probably 5 minutes. I have no codes showing when I looked with the scanner I don't see any other oil leaks and I don't smell a fuel leak.
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My dad has a 04 f250 5.4 auto. The motor turns over but very slow and will not start. He's put two new starters on. I went and looked at it and figured it was loose cables or corrosion, but it was fairly clean, and tight. We decided to pull the battery out of his van that he drives everyday, and I cleaned everything very good. Same thing. Pulled the belt to make sure nothing was lockup, same thing. Truck was running and starting great, then just did this one morning on him.
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Monday I started my truck after leaving it in the garage while on a 8 day vacation. Shifting into reverse led to almost no movement at all. After a few seconds, I shifted back into park and then reverse again and got a solid reverse right away. I may have noticed sluggish shifting into reverse previously, but not this noticeable. What could be the culprit?
2001 Excursion 7.3 4x4 .....
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After setting up about 8 days, my truck has long start now. It starts but takes longer.
I plan to start with charging the batteries over night and see what happens. How old they are since I bought it last year. The batteries did drag just a tad when it started but seem to be back up after driving.
New ICP few months back. I have a couple scan tools.... Forscan and Dash Command. What to look for?
Last note: it starts fine, just takes longer now. Is plan to start tonight.
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I've been having issues with the charging system on my 2005. The battery was 7 years old, so I replaced it. Now, the battery light comes on dimly (and flickers) when at low RPM. I am thinking alternator. I replaced one on my 2002 F150, but haven't done a 250. How hard are they to get to and replace? This is on a 5.4 gasser.....
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I need fixing my 2003 f350 6.0 diesel, I have been working on this truck for a while and still am having problems, here was the original symptoms:
-Hard start or no start on a sunny day
-Rough idle for 10-15 minutes
-Rough shaking in the low RPMs (35 mph)[/COLOR]
-Slow response from the gas pedal
-boost would only get to 14
My dad and I then did many things to the truck in the shop, those things are:
-Air test and replacement of coupling going into oil branches (next to HPOP)
-Replaced EGR valve (no good)
-Replaced ICP sensor (leaking oil)
-Replaced ICP sensor and IPR valve piggtails (due to frayed wires)
-Cleaned Turbo
-Cut MAP sensor hose and reattached it (spliced on the end)
-New battery
-Performed a bubble test and found two bad injectors on passenger side (injectors #5 and #7)
-Cleaned and lubed tops of injectors
-Replaced O rings and copper crush washers on all injectors
-Replaced nipple cup O rings (tight)
-Blew out injector cups
-Bubble tested after injectors put back in (no more bubbles)
-New FICM, EGR cooler and oil cooler were already installed
-Ohm'd main engine wiring harness (good to go)
-Taped up frayed wires on fan clutch connection
-Increased wire gauge on the positive jumper between both batteries
-Sanded each ground on the batteries and engine, cleaned battery clamps, lithium greased connection points.
-Checked fuel for air (no air)
-Checked fuel psi (85 psi, plenty)
-Oil changed
After doing all of this (diagnosing as we fixed each thing) we now fixed many things including the hard/no start problem. Now, for the first three to five minutes:
-It starts right up
-Runs perfectly, no shake and instant response from the gas pedal and turbo
-Boost goes to 28
-ICP is 800-950 on idle
-IPR is 25-26.9% closed
After five minutes however:
-Starts to shake
-IPR % starts to raise
-Received no response from gas pedal (absolutely no power)
This truck has been torn apart like 8 times and I have to do it on my spare time.
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I have a F350 with a V10 Triton motor. It has 186,000 miles on it. I have difficulty in starting it after it has sat for a few days. Typically I have to turn the switch off and on multiple times but it will eventually start. Once it has started it runs and starts fine if it has not sat for any long period of time.
I connected a pressure gauge to the schrader valve. Initially when the key was turned on there was no pressure. While the engine was turning over it was about 30 psi. When the engine started it remained at 30 psi. Ran the engine at 4,000 rpm and the pressure remained about 28 psi. Shut the engine off and turned the key back on the pressure showed 20 psi and remained there.
I'm thinking maybe the problem is with the fuel pressure regulator but can seem to find it. I've spent multiple hours searching online for the location of the Pressure Regulator but no luck.
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TBC fault has been showing on my 2006 Ford F-250 for a couple of years dealer said it wasn't an issue--- check engine light has been on for months, then lost speedometer back in November. Intermittently radio and fuel gauge shut off while driving--- stared needing a boost in really cold weather for the last month.
Driving today my battery just died while driving and I had the truck towed to mechanic--- they put new battery in and ran electrical diagnostics. Saying that it might be timing chain/cam shaft OR electrical components for computer system... I'm lost and so are they and don't want to spend thousands while they diagnose the source.....
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03 F-250 5.4vStandard Transmission
Thought my battery was no good , so changed it. Didn't work it just kinda bumps the motor but doesn't turn over.
Thought it must be my starter then , bought a $200 starter and changed it , still doing the same thing. It did start after changing the starter but wont now.
Neutral safety switch?
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