I have a 2005 F250 , 4.2 tdi diesel. I just bought the truck recently and still getting to know it.
I noticed recently that when I turn on the key, the vacuum pump starts running and does not go off. It seems to run continuously and will only shut off if I block the white outlet pipe with my finger. Is this normal or is the pump stuffed.
I have a 2004 F-350 diesel. My vent selector is always on defrost so I suspected a broken hose but traced all out and all seem to be fine. I disconnected the line coming from the pump to the tank and no vacuum. The pump doesn't seem to be running but it's hard to tell with the engine noise and vibration. What tells the pump to run and how can I bench check it?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2008 F350 FX4 with the 6.4l diesel, a couple weeks ago I was reprogramming the ecm and noticed the vacuum pump was running and wouldn't stop, so after a bunch of reading and testing i changed the solenoid vacuum valve. I tested all the vacuum lines and found no leaks.
View 3 RepliesHaven't been on here for a while. My f250 AC vacuum pump is out. This means the AC being reverted to blowing out the defrost. I have found the defrost/vent vacuum solenoid and zip-tied it open for a vents-only experience. I just realized, without the vacuum pump, there is really no way of determining if it is on recirculate or fresh air. I wish for the recirculate so I don't get someone else's or my own exhaust in the cab. Does the system stay on recirculate without vacuum power? if not what actuator must I zip-tie next?
View 1 RepliesSo my auto locking hubs have not been working for a couple years and I have just been locking them manually as needed. But now I have a boat and I like putting the truck in 4x4 at the landings just for added safety. It's difficult to manually put the truck in and out of 4x4 for just a few minutes when I know I have auto hubs. Plus I recently got aftermarket rims and they cover the manual locks, which can be accessed with a screw driver, but again, tough.
So today I bought the vacuum solenoid valve, whatever its called, and installed it, and they work! But the vacuum pump will not shut off while the 4x4 is engaged. The auto hubs work, my a/c controls work, everything works fine, the only symptom is the pump not shutting off. My a/c stays right where I put it, it doesn't go into defrost or anything, not even for a second, like it used to when my solenoid first started failing. Is the pump running normal? Or is there a leak on the other side of that solenoid? Should I even worry about it if everything else is working?
Its hot in St. Louis and my windshield sure is staying cold (ac blows from defrost vents only).
1999 Ford F350 7.3 diesel 4x4 (4x4 lever on the floor). About a month ago, the ac starts blowing out of the defrost vents only. I assumed it was a vacuum issue.
Lines looked good; very plyable still. Canister looked fine. The vacuum pump on the pass fender well smelled burnt, so I replaced it. Got the new pump in and it didn't work. Checked the fuse panel and found two blown fuses, replaced them and the pump worked.
Here's my issues: if AC max is used, the vacuum pump stops working and air blows through defrost only . If the dash switch is in the off position and then turned back on, air blows through defrost vents again and vacuum pump will not work.
Is there a solenoid or switch to this vacuum pump that I'm not seeing?
So, when trying to start my vehicle it doesn't even turn over. Just clicks continuously. Both of my batteries are putting out 12 Volts. I tried the old arcing my solenoid with a screw driver while key is in on position and I got a couple of turns, but it wouldn't completely turnover. My solenoid has power going to it. Checked all fuses that could coincide with this issue. Not sure where to go from here. I have an 05 Ford F-250 XLT.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 F-350 diesel and the electric vacuum pump went out. I bought a new one from napa and it would not stop pumping. Checked for leaks and found none. If I unplug the hose from the vacuum can the next day, you can hear it suck air so it seems I am holding vacuum. Problem is I burnt out the new pump in two weeks from running all the time. Bought another one and same problem.
So now I plug the electrical in and let it build up vacuum for a couple of minutes and then disconnect it so it won't burn out and I am good for days on vent controls and 4x4. If there has been a bad batch of pumps out there? I also unplugged the hose from the pump to the holding tank and put my finger over where the pump sucks and it still did not shut off.
I have a 2005 f350 with the power stroke I went through the hole vacuum system all new hubs, seals, vacuum actuator and fixed it all now I'm having the reverse problems everyone has my hubs are locked all the time as soon as I plug in the vacuum actuator the transfer case is still in 2wd and will switch 4x4 and work and disengage but the hubs are always in unless I unplug the actuator ...
View 6 RepliesSo I have an 05 f350 5.4 with the shift on the fly and the auto/manual locking hubs.. I already know I have a leak with the vacuum and I just use the hubs manually, then shift on the fly to activate the transfer case.
I went to use the 4wd the other night in a snow storm and I have no 4wd, light on the dash comes on and i can hear the transfer case clicking in when i hit the switch between 2wd and 4wd.
So I got under the truck while it was on the ground and manually locked the passenger side, Then tried spinning the axle and it wont spin freely, so obviously its locked.
Tried the same thing on the driver side and the axle spins freely while the hub is locked, So obviously the locking part of the hub is no good... So i guess my question is, even with just 1 wheel locking in the front, shouldn't I pretty much get 3wd? or am i missing something...will it not engage at all because both sides arent locked?
I have the gas 5.4l in my 01 F250 Super Duty. I had to change out the leaking Heater hose before I could attack this other issue. The truck starts when it feels like it. I changed the fuel filter and it started fine. Then the next day it wouldn't. Later it would. However each time it does start it dies when throttled up. I am down to thinking it is the fuel pump. My question is, because changing the pump sucks about as bad as changing the heater hose. Can I install an inline fuel pump and deal with the sump pump in the tank later? Are there any Cons to doing this?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 f-350 with the 5.4. The fuel pump is not running, have voltage at the inertia switch but none at the pump. Where the pump driver module is located at?
View 2 RepliesSo this morning I started my truck to move it out of the driveway and it sounded funny almost like I was running a ship vac under the hood. I moved it and shut it off and when I shut the truck off it sounded like screeching tires. I thought it was weird but chalked it up to it being cold. When I came home I started the truck again and I got the same vacuum noise. I figured I would let it run some since it was pretty cold out. All of a sudden I heard the noise stop so I went out and all I smelled was a burning smell but the truck was idling fine and running nice and quiet like it usually does. So I shut the truck off and then it wouldn't start again. So I tried to jump it still wouldn't start would barely try to crank. I crawled under smacked the starter a few times jumped it again and it started. I left it running for 20 mins after that no noise sounded fine. Any thoughts on what this could be?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2001 f350 v10 that has been giving me fits. has 88000 miles. cranks and starts when cold or fuel pressure is below 40 psi. SES light will flash when it stalls and fuel pressure goes from 30 while running to 40 and the fuel pump runs continuously when this happens and truck will not start. replaced crank sensor and fuel pump was changed about two months ago. if I relieve fuel pressure it will start and run for short time then stall and fuel pump stays on. all fuses are good. I am at a loss.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 f350 7.3. Turn the key lights and fuel pump come on but the starter wont crank. I replaced the starter and checked all the fuses i could find. The only way I can get the truck to crank is by jumping the relay under the hood.
View 9 RepliesNeed better understanding of the wiring and turn signal selector than I do in my 07 6.0 HD. At first the issue started with the right front and right mirror blinking fast indicating a burnt out rear right turn signal. However after a few seconds the right rear will start working and the speed would be normal. I noticed it worse on very wet days making me think the rear tail light was letting in water and messing with the bulb. But it turns out it does it on nice days too.
These days it has evolved into the turn signal sometimes taking a few seconds before any of the right side actually starts to flash, also sometimes the indicator does not automatically deactivate after a right turn.
Giving the bottom of the steering column a calibrated tap usually always fixes the issue until the next turn.
Assuming its a bad turn signal selector switch Part number YL3T-13K359-ABJAEA but not knowing the wiring diagram I dont see how this bad switch would intermittently stop controlling the right rear turn signal. I would guess that it would tell the flasher left or right, not which lefts and which rights.
I picked up a set of harley davidson look-a-like headlights online for my 05. I go to install them and when I tighten them up it causes the turn signal bulbs to push in towards the fender on both. I put my hand back there and it feels like the bulb socket is being forced against the header panel assembly. Am I missing something?
View 2 RepliesI just bought my 2016 super duty about 2 months ago, really liking it, got a couple questions- How do I turn off daylight running lights? When head lights are on, instrument cluster lights come off and on according to outside light levels, can I turn off this feature?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford F-250. I have checked power to the rear harness and all is good except for the tail/running lights.
Is there a fuse for the tail lights? I have checked the manual and don't see one called out. And the relays under the hood are labeled stop lights/turn signals and those are working fine.
I will see if I can trace the brown wire from the rear harness backwards, but it may be a simple fuse.
I have a 2005 ford f250 with the factory installed brake controller and towing package,until recently all was well,I tow a fairly large travel trailer and last time I hooked the trailer to the truck I noticed the running lights on the trailer were lit, I checked to make sure that I did not have the parking lights turned on or the headlights. I did find posts about the running lights not working and was surprised to find there is a relay somewhere on the central junction fuse block that was integral to the cfb and not user serviceable. Could my problem be that this relay failed in the closed position or am I not going in the right direction in my quest to find this problem. Also looking for a diagram of where this relay is located on the central junction fuse block? I would also consider doing a work around solution rather than having to replace the entire fuse block.
View 7 RepliesSince yesterday, every time I turn the key off and remove it from the ignition the truck just keeps running. Engine, radio, according and everything just like the key was still there. When I press the unlock button it shuts everything down. It is a 2014 F250 with 4500 miles on it. I don't know if I did something or what but I am confused.
View 8 Replies