Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 V10 - Poor Throttle Response And Mileage
Mar 22, 2015
My friend has a F250. He was getting terrible mileage and the mechanic he took it to replaced the intake gaskets. After that the mileage went to 12 and he was happy. Now its down to 6-8, just highway. It seems to me the throttle response is terrible compared to my dad's 01 V10. And it sounds terrible. Exhaust manifolds aren't leaking that I see.
I've got AE and have hooked it up, but I'm really not very familiar with these trucks. I don't get any codes that would relate to anything. Had one trans sensor code but that was about it. Key on engine running test didn't say anything.
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I have read many different threads regarding the TPS sensor on the pedal and EBPV deletes on the E99 7.3L Powerstrokes. I am trying to troubleshoot some issues with my E99 7.3L. Usually on cool mornings and after not being started for awhile the truck will seem to be stuck in an Idle. This is an intermittent problem that doesn't always happen.
I cleaned the connections to the Tps and the IVS sensor and put them back in. No luck. On another note I am also seeing a reduction in fuel mileage and power like the truck is being restricted. I don't know if these symptoms are related or possibly their own issues. I am troubleshooting and possibly thinking it is the EBPV system that isn't working correctly. Considering doing an EBPV delete with a NON-EBPV Pedestal and Flange.
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2005 f250 4x4 , crew cab v10. Just put on my magnaflow muffler and gotta say, What a difference that makes! Can't wait to get the k&n intake kit and see what that will do. I see that my truck has the electronic throttle control instead of the previous v10s with the cable. I am wondering, is there any way to get quicker throttle response like with the old cable style throttle? Just seems real sluggish to rap up the rpm in park with no load on it.
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I have a 2015 SD with only 4100 miles on it. This has happened to me twice. Both times, traveling slowly at idle or just above. Anyway, tried to give it a little gas, and -----nothing. Lightly pumped the throttle a couple of quick times and back on line. The motor didn't die, but there was no response to the throttle at all. The first time, I thought maybe it was something I did. Then it doesn't happen for a month and a half and then again, in heavy traffic in the rain. Haven't had my first service yet, and you can bet I'll tell them about it. Almost felt like a two-stroke that had loaded up?
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Took delivery of my 2015 F250 in June with 2WD and the 6.2 gas engine. What I thought to be a slow throttle response seems to be more of a quick shifting transmission according to two different dealerships. My 6 speed automatic has already shifted to 4th gear at only 25-30 MPH. My Dodge Hemi I sold never had shifts as quick as this and I think it's to quick. My question is....is there a way to change these shift points so I get more speed before it shifts into the higher gears?
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I have an '05 F350 single rear-axle w/109k miles. I only recently bought the truck for towing, and haven't had much time to play with it.
It seems that I get about 10-11 mpg on average - I was thinking this was a bit low - anything I can check?
I am normally a pretty quick driver, but, have been taking it easy to get a good read on the mileage, so, the right foot has been "very light".
The truck has a "tick", and I intend on following some of the guides for that, but how to improve the mileage
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I bought the 2005 F250 6.0 Turbo Diesel with 67,000 miles on it last March. It has given me gave me absolutely no problems until now. In the last 2 weeks I have had it plugged in when it was below 32 degrees outside. Otherwise, I just remote started it every morning and let it run for 20 minutes before I left. In the last 2 weeks, I have noticed the same problem whether it is morning, afternoon, or evening and it happens at different times. I will be at a standstill at a stop light, stop sign, or parked in my driveway when this occurs. Sometimes, and like I said, "sometimes", it will hesitate when I give it throttle. It will quickly respond after maybe a second, but the hesitation is still there. It only does this on occasion!
I work for a Lucas Oil distributor, so in the winter I ran the "extreme diesel conditioner" through it with a tank of diesel about every other week. I also used the fuel-injector cleaner at every fill up. On "ONE" occasion, and like I said, "ONE" occasion, when it hesitated at a stoplight, I looked in the rear view mirror, and noticed a short burst of white smoke, and then it took off. It has not done that since. I took the EGR off and cleaned it and it seemed okay until 2 days later, then the same hesitation came back, but like I said, at times!
I replaced the air filter and since then I have done nothing. I am now being told to check the coolant level in the resevoir. When I un-screwed the cap the cap, there was pressure in there and the fluid was about 1/4 inch low from the line. I was also told to check the filter on top of the block, but I have not gotten that far. Ford says it is the EGR cooler system! I have "NO" check engine lights!
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Finally had a chance to pull the coils for inspection, and give the truck some very needed plugs. anyways, since i got it, the truck on initial start will rev itself up to about 3k rpms. it will almost always die after that rev. with the MAF sensor disconnected, it will rev to about 2k rpms, and the idle, if you can call it that, around 1k rpms. it will buck, jump, spit, burp, chug, pop, blow, and phew noises the whole time. I can rev the truck at this point but the throttle repsonse is poor. it does rev with a slight misfire, but no popping like what it does at idle. the exhaust has been dropped before the cat, so i know its not a plugged cat. i feel it could possibly be a sticking idle control valve allowing air past behind the MAF sensor causing this crazy scenerio
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I have a 2005 F350 diesel, 54000 miles. I was at a red light today, engine is idling normaly.. light turns green and I step on the throttle and get nothing. My truck is rolling (in drive) as if it were in nuetral. I shut the engine off and it does not start for 10 to 15 min. Then it fires up and seems to be running as if nothing happened.
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I just recently got my truck back, My father and I switched vehicles due to need and distance's being driven. 2005 F350 6.0, 164,000 miles
I couldn't wait to drive it again, I spent hours detailing and cleaning. Well I go to start and noticed it struggled to start, and didnt seem to be idling right. I looked under the hood and it was leaking fuel from the Regulator. I left it parked and never drove it since he last did. I read around on these forums and I bought the blue spring upgrade kit.
Now I notice it shakes at idle a lot more than it used to, pretty bad at times. Then upon driving it shakes even worse upon acceleration attempts, and has very poor throttle response. I have to put it nearly to the floor and even then the acceleration is nothing like it used to be. Most of my trip was highway at 60mph, and anytime it would start climbing a hill it would shake pretty bad with the acceleration. When i let off the gas to slow down before braking it stopped the shaking.
So I read around on here and I went back and used the factory bowl and valve for the regulator, still had the issue. Next I went back and replaced the blue spring with the original, still have the issue.
I just checked the FICM and it is reading between 48-49 during key on, cycle, and cranking.
Batteries are great
Alternator only reads 13.6 at 2k rpm idle, but have not had charging issues.
My father says he never noticed anything wrong with it other than it occasionally missing out. But I don't see how changing the fuel pressure regulator would have caused this. Especially since I tried every combination of oem and aftermarket parts, ensuring that all the connections and parts were installed correctly.
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Is it possible bad spark plugs and wires affect poor acceleration and bad throttle response.I have no error codes and the engine is rebuilded.Idling sound good.Difficult to start engine first time(seconds after-easy to run the engine).
Tyre size 195/65/15 winter?
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hey there, new to your forum , been reading alot here , i have a 1999 f 250 super duty, frame was rotted, so i found a 2003 frame with motor , trans , transfer case & both axles , put my cab on it with the 1999 pcm , having trouble with low power on take off , shudders , poor shift points , at highway speeds , turn signal on , the speedometer will pulse same as blinkers, new head gaskets , timing chains , replaced trans with the old 1999.
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I have the factory keyless entry on my '03 F-250 SuperCab. I have always had to be within about 5'-8' of my cab to get the doors to lock/unlock. I thought it was normal for the longest time, but recently learned it's not. I am out of warranty now so I need to try and fix this myself. What is the location of the receiver module, and what it looks like? Also, is there an external antenna w/ the factory keyless entry, and where is it at? Transmitters are fine, as is battery power. Only think it could be is receiver/antenna.
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2002 Ford F350 Powerstroke, 7.3L, Automatic, 4 wheel drive .... AFE Stage II Intake, 5" full exhaust, TS 6-position tuner chip, Swamps 140lb injectors
Intermittent accelerator problem: no response, just goes to idle. Runs perfectly with no other issues but zero response when the accelerator it pressed. There seems to be no pattern to the problem as this happens at any speed/position on the pedal. When the accelerator goes out the check engine light in the lower left corner comes on. All fuses are good.
Symptoms began a month or so ago feeling like an occasional 'hiccup' or hesitation. Symptoms occurred a few more times until a couple of weeks ago (Friday, 2/20/15) when it left my son stranded a few miles from home. He was able to limp it to a parking lot and we left it over night and went and towed it back to the house the next morning. The truck started and ran fine just no accelerator so we towed it idling so we would have power steering/brakes, etc. As we neared the house the engine light went out and the accelerator began working and he was able to drive the truck the remaining 1/2 mile home.
Most all of the research I did came back with the Throttle Position Sensor as the culprit. I was able to order one (the complete accelerator pedal assembly that is*) at a Napa store in a nearby town and picked it up on Tuesday (2/24). As soon as I installed it everything worked fine.
As an aside, I have read a lot about the mid-2001 switch from the units with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch) as separately connected units to the 'new' style where these parts are combined into one and there is a single 5-wire connector. Being a 2002 there was no question as to which one I had. Just be aware of the difference. Also, this part is simple to change. The connector has a clip that you pinch down on with your thumb and then pull off. I use my little electric impact with 1/4" extension and a 10mm socket. Zip, zip, zip an you're done. It takes me longer to get my tools out.
A few days later on Friday (2/27) it presented the sporadic accelerator symptom a couple of times again but was able to get the truck home. The next morning I unplugged, cleaned (CRC Contact Cleaner), and dabbed into the connector a small amount of dielectric grease to insure good connection. (I had read that in my research as well). That seemed to work beautifully and he said it ran fine all day and until the next afternoon (Sunday, 3/1) when it began acting up yet again.
I continued to research and could find nothing that would suggest anything other than the Throttle Position Sensor. I read that some other folks had gone through a few of the Napa/aftermarket units though so I began thinking that maybe I had just gotten a bad unit.
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I have a 2005 F250 5.4L 2wd. Parked the vehicle in my driveway and the next morning there was no response from the accelerator and the CEL light and the wrench light on. I pulled the codes and came up with codes P2104, P2107 and P2110. The KOEO code was P2122. I checked the wiring and connectors and all appear to be fine I replaced the throttle body and no change. I removed the accelerator pedal and tried it on another vehicle and it worked fine. I have power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. After clearing the codes and rescanning the same codes come up immediately.
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So I have a 2004 F250 5.4 regular cab 4wd long bed that was bought used with a very heavy Western Pro plow. The truck only has 70K miles and it is equipped with the snow plow package and heavy GVWR package. Since I had no use for the plow, I removed it and all mounting hardware as soon as I got it home. The truck wanders and bounces down the road terribly.
It is tiring to drive and requires total attention. Reading posts on here about "wandering" left me thinking my steering box was probably worn out. I replaced this without any change. I figured that I must have other components needing fixed, but had not had time or money to dig deeper yet.
Now, this morning when leaving work, the truck had accumulated nearly an inch of very heavy, wet snow with a small layer of ice on the hood. Driving home was as if I were in another vehicle. Everything was tight and much less "hopping" when hitting small bumps. So, this leads me to my question. Do you think that simply adding some weight back to the front end, i.e.,: bumper, or brush guard, could be my answer? Or, is this simply covering up a more extensive problem?
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2003 f250 4x4 7.3 auto
Been an ongoing problem with truck, pedal would sometimes lose all response. truck starts and idles fine but will not throttle up and all needles on the instrument cluster are at their rested position and the odometer doesn't even light up, however all the backlights still work fine.
The owner said that a 10 amp fuse on the bottom row of the fuse panel would occasionally blow, and that's when the pedal would go dead, he would replace it and keep driving till it blew again... usually about a week. I checked all fuses on the truck tonight and all are fine.
Unplugged the connector on the pedal sensor and cleaned and reinstalled and still wont throttle up. I am not sure what number the fuse was that he kept replacing but i *think* it was a cluster fuse. Is their an correlation between the cluster stopping the pedal sensor from working or vice versa?
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I have a 00 F250 7.3 4x4 and I am looking to get better mileage out of it since it is now a dedicated work truck for towing. The two options I have in mind I think will work, but just wanted some clarification and if one is even possible.
First I will be taking the lift off and dropping back down to 33 inch tires or so. This should give me a little, but if not it should be easier on the truck for towing.
And this truck mostly see's highway miles, so I was thinking about disengaging the 4wd. I heard 4wd trucks get worse mileage, so this is the one I didn't even know if it was possible. not digging in to the computer and injectors quite yet.
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I am curious to see what you think. I had my car chipped by upsolute. For as long as I have had it and even when I took the chipping off, restoring my car to stock, i was getting pressure spikes, lousy throttle response and lousy gas mileage. For a while, I was going to the dealer every other week or so, trying to find out why my car was kicking into limp mode. Upsolute said it was the car and the dealership said it was the chipping.
Anyway last saturday I was inspecting my air filter and airbox (nice little pile of sand and a couple of leaves in there-I am sure that didn't work my mileage any). I moved the airbox a little and the hose which connects to the airbox underneath the air intake ductwork, fell off the airbox on its own. It was never clamped in place. I am told that is the hose that goes directly to the MAF Sensor.
My question, if all else is tight, do you think I have found the source of my over pressure and lousy gas mileage problems? The car certainly feels like it. I went and tightened up every hose connection I could find. My car feels like it has a new motor with a healthy growl to boot. Mileage appears to be up as well. What do you think? I thought about restoring my chipping but I wont do that.
One is that I have a very good extended warranty still in effect and don't want to risk losing it. They would love to hear the car is chipped. Then its good by policy. The other reason is that the guy who chipped it said he would put it back in but would not remove it if I am wrong. The dealership said they could not and would not restore my car to stock even though I cannot believe they don't have the tools around to do so.
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I've changed my knock sensor, my o2 sensor, fuel filter, air filter, alternator, and cut out my cat. Still can't figure out why my truck has no power?
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I have owned a 2003 v10 triton f-250 now for 8 years and when I first got the rig I was getting 11.5 mpg mixed driving. As the years and miles went on the mileage got worse and worse and now I'm lucky to get 4.5 mpg.
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