Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 - Tough To Turn - No CEL?
May 11, 2016
I am the first owner of a 2005 F250 SD with the V10 engine. After the engine is up to normal temperature, EVERY TIME I turn my steering wheel hard right or left it dies. It started doing this when it was less than a year old and had 10,000 miles on it. There is no Check Engine light, therefore, every time the Ford service people hook it to their reader there is no error code so, of course, they always tell me there is nothing they can do.
I use the truck to pull a fifth-wheel trailer but these days that usually means a yearly trip ten miles from the storage lot to our RV park site. The total vehicle mileage is 78,000. Less than 5000 of that has been pulling the trailer. It has never been used to haul heavy loads other than the fifth-wheel. I changed the fuel filter less than 2000 miles ago and nothing changed. I have done all of the routine maintenance myself so it has never been late for an oil change or any other routine service.
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I own a 2004 F250 XLT. 8 foot bed. I'm looking to get new 4 wheel locking hubs. The passenger side hub is tough to turn without a pair of pliers. Warn has a set of premium hubs model # 38826, I've been looking at. The truck is used for flat beach driving. I can do basic maintenance but I'm not pulling engines apart.
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I picked up a set of harley davidson look-a-like headlights online for my 05. I go to install them and when I tighten them up it causes the turn signal bulbs to push in towards the fender on both. I put my hand back there and it feels like the bulb socket is being forced against the header panel assembly. Am I missing something?
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So, when trying to start my vehicle it doesn't even turn over. Just clicks continuously. Both of my batteries are putting out 12 Volts. I tried the old arcing my solenoid with a screw driver while key is in on position and I got a couple of turns, but it wouldn't completely turnover. My solenoid has power going to it. Checked all fuses that could coincide with this issue. Not sure where to go from here. I have an 05 Ford F-250 XLT.
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2005 6.0 F250 SD Powerstroke... Truck died on the road and wouldn't start
The symptoms were... I changed the Radiator and had the cooling system flushed... couple of weeks later it stopped while driving... did some research and talked to a few people and the STC valve seemed to be the issue... So new STC, new intake gaskets, cleaned and new EGR gaskets and I just put in a new Turbo (Ford installed it)... had a stripped bolt under the EGR cooler arm and had to remove the Turbo to get to it.... 14 days later......
Changed STC fitting and gaskets in the high pressure oil pump, IPR screen, exhaust manifold gaskets and Cleaned the EGR and changed gaskets and no start. Tried starter fluid and it turned but wouldn't stay on and the batteries died. Would you all say I'm on the right path?
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My 2005 ford f250 fx4 won't activate when I turn the key the light illuminates then turns off but when I start the truck and select it it doesn't go into gear
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I bought a 2005 F350 in January of 2012. At the time of purchase, I noticed that the truck seemed slow to turn over. I talked the dealer into installing 2 new 750 CCA Ford batteries at the time of sale.
I have put less than 7,000 miles on the truck since the day I bought it. In August of 2012, I went to start the truck and the batteries were completely dead. I charged them, started the truck, and the next day the truck was dead again.
I took the batteries out, and took them to the dealer. They replaced both of them under warranty. They said that after they charged them, each tested at less than 85 CCA.
In July of 2013, the same thing happened. I used the truck one day, and then the next day the batteries were completely dead. I had them tested at the dealer, and the passenger side battery failed the test. The driver's side passed. They replaced the passenger side under warranty, again. This time, they also cleaned all battery / ground connections and tested the charging system. Everything passed.
Last week, I went to start the truck. Same thing again. Took the truck to the dealer, and both batteries, after charging, failed the test. They replaced both batteries under warranty.This time, on each battery, the dealer had written with yellow paint pen on the batteries AND on the radiator shroud "BATTERY NOT UNDER WARRANTY."
I asked the dealer about this, and they said that since they have replaced 5 batteries in the truck, and since it has 152,000 miles on it, the warranty is no longer valid. I argued that since they have checked the truck thoroughly, and found no issues with the charging system, they can't void the warranty like that.
So, what is the reason why the batteries would fail like that, and that frequently?
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I have a 2005 F250 , 4.2 tdi diesel. I just bought the truck recently and still getting to know it.
I noticed recently that when I turn on the key, the vacuum pump starts running and does not go off. It seems to run continuously and will only shut off if I block the white outlet pipe with my finger. Is this normal or is the pump stuffed.
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I have a 2005 F350 6.0 PowerStroke, and I just did the head bolts upgrade to the ARP studs, new EGR cooler and a new stock turbo. Looks like everything came out good, no left over parts or unplugged connectors, all new fluids and fuel filters and oil filter. Did the priming of fuel and oil, the turbo. When it was ready to turn it on, I turned the motor by jumping the starter to build some oil pressure.
Now I turn the key to turn on the truck, it turns with no issues, it sound good, but it will not turn on.
Checked my batteries, they are fully charged, checked fluids, ok, checked oil pressure as I'm cranking it, it looks good.
It still does not turn on.
So, I jumped it with my friends Excursion, after a couple of tries, it TURNED ON.
Let it run for about 3 minutes then turned it off. It sound good just like it did before the upgrade, with an exhaust leak from the turbo.
Went to turn it on again, it turns but it will not start, jumped it again and it RUNS.
Now I let it run for about 30 minutes figured out where the exhaust leak was coming from.
Shut it off, Re seated exhaust pipe with leak, WENT TO TURN IT ON AND IT WILL TURN BUT WILL NOT RUN.
So what checks I can perform to start eliminating possible issues.....
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2005 F350 Super Duty. I have no brake lights turn signals or hazards. dealer suggested the multiswitch but changed it and still not working?
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I just got a 2000 F350 cc drw 7.3l.
I did search but have had no luck. My turn signals do not work, unless my foot is on the brake pedal my green arrow indicator wont even turn on. When they do my bulbs work but don't cycle so I know all the bulbs are good as I had my wife check all four corners when I got them to come on for a split second. I have tried replacing the MFS and the turn signal relay under the radio in the dash.... When I do turn on my blinkers I can hear the relay click once but that is it, no more.
I tried checking the wiring in the column and tilting the column to its extremes while trying to engage the turn signals. Also, if I unplug the brake light switch then I do not get an arrow on the IC to light up so I am guessing the power flows through that switch. I don't have a chilton manual yet and the owners manual was not in the truck. I did check fuse 23 ?
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Coming back from a trip I got a e-brake light show up on the dash then noticed the signals stopped working and the heated seats no longer turn on. I scanned it with my AE and got a brake fluid sensor error come up but nothing about the signals .... is this a common problem or is there a connection between all this? 2003 F350 6.0L .....
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Just bought 2005 F350 XLT. Took it home last night and the alarm started going off at 2:30am for no reason. Stumbled looking for keys and it shut off by itself before I could(it sounded like it rearmed as well). At about 5:00am it went off again. We live in a rural area with not much around.
My understanding is that the XLT would be a Ford 'accessory' item. It does not seem to be too sensitive as I jumped on the back bumper to see if it would set it off but it did not.
The only thing I can think of is that last night, I had flicked all four of the Auxilary switched on the dash and forgot to switch them off. I popped the hood and none of those wires appear to be connected to anything.
I can't see why those switches would have anything to do with it but I am grasping at straws here.
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My F-350 has developed a new problem. It wont start. It wont even turn over. All Electricity is on, glow plugs glow, gauges work, lights work, but when you turn the key to the start position noting happens. Some of the indicators go dark.
I even tried a jump thinking my batteries no longer handle the load. Same results. I suppose I can remove the batteries and take them in for testing. In fact, I'll probably do that now.
2002 F-350 Superduty, 7.3 Ltr, Turbocharged. 260000+ miles.
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I am having some problems with my 4WD, it's not working. When I turn the key on, I do not see the 4WD light. I have locked the hubs with no change. I noticed that my switch was not illuminated either, so I started there. I took the switch out, cleaned it up a bit and reinstalled it. Now it's illuminated but still no 4WD. I have swapped the two relays and still nothing. I have checked all the fuses under the dash and they were all good.
I don't believe the switch is the problem(they seem to be pretty simple and it doesn't look like there's much to go wrong. Is there a better way to test the switch other than just seeing the illumination light on? I plan on testing the transfer case shift motor tomorrow but I don't believe that is the problem since I'm not even getting the dash 4x4 light.
My other thought is replace the GEM but I was trying to rule out a few of the cheaper alternatives first.
I almost forgot to mention, approximately 7 months ago, my buddy and I were going coyote hunting. Being the genius he is, he didn't unload his rifle while we were in the truck and at some point, something happened and he touched off a round.
The shot was a well placed point blank shot and went right through a large group of wires on the passenger side trim panel under the glove box.
Initially, he bagged himself a trophy size Superduty but after some emergency surgery and a bit of soldering, everything has been fine.
I haven't used the 4WD after this incident but I can't say for certain this caused it because I haven't checked until now. Do you think this caused it? Is there a hidden/residual problem that I missed?
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My dash cam is supposed to turn on and start recording when the truck is started and stop recording and turn off with the ignition. I have plugged into the accessory plug in the dash. It won't turn off and on. Is there another plug I should be using or do I need to wire it in?
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2011 F250 - AC works perfect sometimes. When it does not there is not clutch action or signal. Pressure is good, will work for many hours when working. Sometimes it will not turn on at all. I'm looking at installing a resistor in the evap temp sensor circuit.
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My 05 superduty is in the shop because it won't shift in or out of 4Hi. Ford garage says I need a new transfer case shift motor, and 4wheel drive module. They said the shift motor was full of oil. I am not really up to speed on how the shift motor works, other than it bolts externally to the transfer case, that's why it confuses me about the shift motor being saturated with oil. My truck has never leaked even a drop of any type oil, ever.
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2005 Ford F250 5.4 ... Having problems with ignition switch or bus bar in that circuit being bad?
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2005 F-250 King Ranch Diesel ... My truck when I got it the 4x4 wouldn't engage. I replace the front inner seals, and the lock outs. Still wouldn't work. Took the shift motor off and freed it up and it worked fin till today. Changed the shift motor and still nothing. This truck has been nothing but problems since I have had it and now this ... Truck is going on the market soon and would sell better if the 4x4 worked ...
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Ok back at this problem. When I say she won't fill... I mean I can't get more then $0.10 -$0.20 for gas in before the pump shuts off! I'v read all the tips and tricks of holding the gun upside down, tilting the gun up, changing different guns or gas stations, and even pulling the carbon canister filter blowing it out with compressed air... not one of them worked! Yes air passes through the canister but at a restrictive rate.
The only way I can get this truck to fill like every other car I'v filled is to unplug the vent line to carbon canister filter. Then I fill the F250 as fast as I want. Obviously the problem is in the carbon canister (plug up media or faulting canister solenoid) but what is the fix other then buying a new one?
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