Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 - Surge And Stall When AC Comes On / Gas Pedal Disables
Mar 10, 2016
I have a 2005 f252 6.0 diesel with electronic climate control and when my a/c comes on it surges/stalls my truck and throws several codes (P0108, 0403, 0405, 2104, 2123, 2138, 2139, 2140) and disables my gas pedal. I know I am loosing my 5v reference, but not sure where. I have replaced my compressor, alternator, both batteries, low pressure switch, accumulator, oriface tube.
I've disconnected several 5 v reference sensors and all gives me the same results. if I disconnect my low pressure switch my defrost and heater works fine and no issues, but this is not engaging my compressor. when I plug the low pressure switch back in , the same issues happen, I checked my fuses, and swapped the relay in the battery box. Looking for drawings of the circuitry or wiring diagrams.
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Recently my F350 has failed to downshift when the accelerator pedal is pressed to the floor to speed up in traffic. It will usually happen when traveling at speeds in the 30's-40's. It will shift quickly at slower speeds. I have a scan guage on it all the time and it is not throwing any codes.
The transmission has only been serviced by the dealer; last done about 24000 miles ago. No leaks or low fluids/no burned smells. Stock setup with no heavy towing use. Currently at 228000+ miles, this is the first issue with the transmission assuming I am looking at the right area for the cause.
2005 F350 XLT 4WD
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I have a 2005 f250 super duty turbo diesel 6.0 automatic. The problem I'm having is, when I engage the tow/haul button the transmission doesn't down shift unless I feather the pedal. Also the engine will overheat at times. I've replaced the thermostat, but that's all so far.
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I just got 03 f250 with 6.0 and when shifting has a weird surge/lag thing happening. Reminds me a little of the old 7.3 surge when it was just started on a cold day. Seems to be worse in higher gears.
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I've got a 99 f250 5.4 that runs like a top. In the last 6 months I've been chasing a little problem. It doesn't happen all the time but seem to be happen more and more. While driving any speed If I let off the gas the RPM's hold at around 1500 then surges down to 1000 then back up again to 1500.
Does that 2 to 4 times then all good. Give it gas again it does it again. It kind of does it when it wants. Could be fine for a trip around then next trip it acts up again. Checked a lot of the vacuum lines, PVC valve and replaced the idle control next to the EGR valve. EGR is next.
Idles and runs fine except the surge thing..
P0401 code as well.
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I was recently involved in a fender bender. As I backed out of a parking space, I struck another vehicle. When I immediately attempted to pull back into the parking space to check things out, the engine in the F350 bus surged to the point that it crashed into one of the safety poles in the parking lot despite the fact that I had both feet on the brake pedal. The vehicle is 8 years old and has 25K miles (not used frequently) but never had this issue before. Could the crash have something to do with the vehicle's computer and the subsequent surge?
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I have a 99' f250 I purchased a few months ago. Here's what happened. Today I was driving down the road and it started to surge. I pulled over and shut the truck off. When I went to start it, the motor turned over slow for a sec and then clicked. When I put a jump pack to it, it fired up. I took it home with the jumper still hooked to it and checked voltage. The alternator was throwing 33.4 volts!! I went to the auto parts store and bought a new battery and alternator. Now the battery shows 11.7 volts steady. The alternator still reads 33.4. Also, if I unplug the positive lead while it's running, the truck shuts off. And one more thing. If the key is off and I reconnect the positive lead, I can hear the fuel rail pressurize. What is going on? I hate electrical gremlins.
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Was moving a boat on a trailer with surge brakes and found I could not back it up. Found that I had no power on the center pin on the round 7 seven trailer connector.
When backing this type of trailer the back up light power opens a solenoid that keeps the brakes from working in reverse. Don't know how long its been like this because this is the first time I moved this trailer. The question is where is the fuse and or relay for this. The back up lights on the truck do work.
2007 F350 6.0 ....
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My early 04 runs great until I tow my 24ft rv any distance over a 2 or 3 hour period. When I exit the eway to fuel up or take a break it will stumble and this last time it quit running all together. I use my scanguage, all Temps good while towing never go faster then 65mph, new batteries etc. I had it towed to a local diesel repair shop that I have used before (all the 6.0 problems, oil cooler, egr hpfp, ficm).. When I Went to see them a day later, told me truck started right up and ran great, pulled a few minor codes, none that would have caused my issues. Scanner based testing passed air management, injector balance, all cylinders even.
When they originally scanned, it did show multiple docs for injector contributing, egr insufficient flow, 2 glow plugs and cam/crank sensor, but after cool down again started up and ran great. Truck has 200k on it. Last oil analysis showed internal engine in great shape. I trust this shop and this is not the first 6.0 they have worked on, I am just learning now of taking the rv on the road now. It would be difficult to hook rv up and just runaround to try and replicate what happened and be able to get to any repair facility. Truck is stock with exception of 4 inch exhaust,turbo back, no tuner etc. Also shop and I checked ICP and it is good, quarter volt. It was replaced with pigtail a few years ago.I also have the blue spring upgrade .Just drove to town and back and it runs perfect!
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I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
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I have a 2002 7.3 with the 4r100 173k miles. If your nice to it she drives fine, but if you get on it the torque converter will slip/stall kinda revs up like 300 rpm then slams really hard between 1st and 2nd. Other gears work fine. I've only had it not happen like 10 times since I've owned the truck ..... I don't really beat on it except for towing which I'm starting to do a lot of. Wondering if putting a new stock torque converter in it is worth it.? Not gona blow the bank on a TC unless I'm putting a brand new trans in the truck. Which I don't think it needs in the near future.
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1999 F250 SD Ex 4x4 V10 has been intermittently not starting, both cold and warm, began last fall but only happened once a month or so or longer. Would then start after trying again either right away or after waiting a bit. Now it is doing it on a regular basis. Sometimes it will start right away, sometimes won't but if you keep trying or wait awhile it starts, sometimes using the extra key will start it right away after the first one didn't, sometimes neither one. It does not try to turn over, make any noises, no warning lights flashing, just won't start.
Now also on two occasions within the past week, it just stopped while driving. Radio, dash lights, etc., stayed on. I got it to the side of the road with the little power steering left where it started up again right away.
No codes showed up. First mechanic couldn't find anything obvious or replicate problem. Changed air and fuel filters (fuel filter really needed changed), plugs. Got truck back and it wouldn't start next morning. He checked it again and got a code related to ignition, tried the spare key and it started up. Truck back home, next day same problem.
Mechanic 2 checked, no codes, kept several days but, of course, couldn't replicate problem. I'm not even sure what all they checked, used to be an excellent repair place but now they seem to only really on diagnostics and throw up their hands, very disappointing. Replaced solenoid and starter last year myself. Otherwise, have had no problems until this.
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New issue I've discovered , when stopping , the RPM's drop down to 500, truck acts like it wants to stall , then goes up to 750 RPM's . Then it's fine . Doesn't hesitate when accelerating . Idles slightly rough after start up , about 30 seconds . I've checked the air filter , cleaned the IAC and MAF. Fuel filter is only a year old . What I should check next ?
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250 2006 Superduty v10. Codes p2106 and p2135 ... Only occasionally when coming to a stop it shudders like it would stall. It happens for just a few seconds then ok again but wrench light comes on. After the next shut off and start the light goes out. I had the throttle control position sensor checked and they said it was ok. Got a software update at Ford. I hate to just start replacing expensive parts. I have about 60000 miles and it is a great truck otherwise.
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My 2001 6.8 L V10 runs great all day & night without issue, but first thing in the morning when below freezing it has a hiccup. It'll fire right up and stutter and stall within less than 2 seconds. Usually twice. Third time it fires and keep running. Is there a fuel check valve somewhere on this thing? Not sure what that would have to do with the temps. Wondering if it's/there's an easy fix or not?
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 5.4l the symptoms are when it's warm it has half power and it will stall at idle. What I have done with the truck is.
New cam phasers
new chain
new tensioners
new vct solenoids
new oil pump
new plugs
new ignition coils
new stock cam shafts
new rockers
new lash adjusters
new exhaust manifolds both sides
new muffler
oil change with the right oil
ran it with sea foam in the crankcase before oil change
new fuel pump module
new evap vent control
new abs speed sensor
I cleaned throttle body with brake cleaner ... Scanned it after a 15 min ride of having to use 2 feet to drive it. The engine codes that came up are p0022 iacv short to ground and p1000 readiness test not complete. I also got p1804 4 wheel drive high indicator circuit failure p1808 4 wheel drive low indicator circuit failure .... Not sure what else to try.
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I have a 06 f360 PSD 6 speed. On a road trip and the clutch pedal is getting very close to the floor. No Slippage but the longer I leave the pedal pressed the worse it gets. Are there any good descriptions how the clutch in this truck works?? Slave cyl??
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I replaced all the brake pads on all 4 wheels. Pretty standard procedure. I now have a very spongy brake pedal. It stops but the pedal will be almost to the floor. I did not break any of the lines open during the procedure just used c-clamp to spread the calipers. No ABS light. Have a Snap-On power bleeder and bled the system several times with no change. Checked the power steering fluid level and inspected entire system for leaks.
2002 F-550 V10
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Just got a 99 super duty and I have a very weird problem. When stopping i feel a very strong pulsing from the brake pedal. I assumed warped rotor. but the strange part is when I hit the brake the cab dome light comes on. How to locate this pulsating?
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A bit annoying. 2008 F-350. When the truck is cold there is a creaking feeling I can feel through my foot. It usually lingers while the truck is warm but eventually goes away. It's in the actual pedal. This may be a stupid question but is there anything that can be lubed under there ?
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Test drove an 08 V10 today. Brakes seemed to work fine and didn't lock up but I felt no pulsating in the pedal and heard no chirping of the tires like most ABS systems do. Is this normal? Anything special to look for in used late model V10s?
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