Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 - Sound Like Compressed Gas Cylinder Blowing Up - Blown Turbo?
Dec 1, 2013
Did I just blow up my turbo or what? I'm kinda new to diesels, I just purchaced a 2005 F-250. Today I was pulling my rv out of Devils Den State Park in Arkansas, beautiful place. There is a steep grade coming out, my truck was seeming to be having a kind of hard time, then a loud PFFTTTT sound. That is the best I can do for writing sounds. It sounded like a compressed gas cylinder blowing up! The pulling power went to nothing and the turbo gauge went to 0. It sounded fine at idle, other gauges were fine. I'm guessing my turbo is DEAD, what say you?
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I am a little skeptical of this, but someone told me that since I got water in the gas tank of my 2003 F250 I should blow compressed air into the schrader valve on the fuel rails to eject it all into a bucket under the disconnected fuel filter.
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2005 FORD F350 Lariat 6.0, 61,000 miles, and in prestine condition. Just got the news the head gasket is blown! HOW DID THIS HAPPEN?!!! My mechanic says to scrap the whole engine because the 6.0 is the worst engine around. This truck should last for years!!!!!
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I have a 2005 6.0 with 279k running pretty strong. I met a mechanic that has the same year truck with 700K!! He showed me one of his mods and he used a longer line on his windshield wiper fluid and put a Tee Connector on the line and ran it into his intake for the turbo. He said he will use it when cruising along sparingly but it cleans his turbo and such. Is this a water injection hack?
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I have a 02 F250 with 137 thousand miles. When it had 130 thousand on it I had the plugs changed unknowing that this year 5.4 was known for blowing the plugs.
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2006 F350 6.0l dually. Head gasket replaced, racing studs installed, other assoc components replaced few years ago. Y pipes replaced two years ago.
3 weeks ago had oil change and service. Last week engine started making roaring sound. Hubby raised hoid and discovered coolant fill tank cap off ( sitting on battery). Shop owner came to our home and filled with coolant, about 3 gal in. We drive from Houston to Lubbock then Dallas this week. Added about another gal coolant.
Hubby thought he heard an air sound yesterday, but was slight. Today after driving for about an hour at hwy speed, after we slowed for an exit, when throttle depressed again, air noise very loud and turbo weak. Limping home.
Have had some of the flexible hoses replaced in the last year or so as well.
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After finding that a battery was low and not getting charge, they found the alternator was bad. Replaced that. Next the battery that was low was able to be charged and did not effect the other battery. Both batteries have been load and charge tested and they both read 84% charged. I am told this is "good."
Next I swapped both fuel filters and did the oil change as well. I finally got a chance to get my friend to run his scanner on it. The results are injectors and FICM. The codes are PO261, 264, 267, 270, 273, 276, 279, 282, and finally 611. I guess this means that the FICM is toast.
I have tried salvage and no one has anything. I guess I still don't understand how this truck is capable of running daily with the computer throwing every code dealing with the injectors and the computer that runs them.
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How to get the spark plug out of cylinder #4. I have the kit to take out the base of the plug out of the head if it breaks off. But I can't get the plug out. I think the plug broke off but not the electrode. So the electrode is caught up in the porcelain tip of the plug. It's pretty tight back there with the a/c lines and fuel rail and other stuff. I tried needle nose but they just don't grip it right, to get enough force to pull it. These are the plugs with the extended tips.
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The A/C on my 05 F250 6.0 recently would not blow out through the vents. So, I replaced the vacuum pump and the reservoir tank. Once I replaced them the A/C still starts through the defrost vents but, after a minute or so starts to blow through the vents. I also noticed that the vacuum pump never stops running. Is this normal or is there something else I need to look for?
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I have 2005 F250 6.0 XLT. I was driving the other night and all of a sudden my dash lights went out. I noticed I was being flashed from other drivers and discovered that my parking lights are not working. A preliminary check of fuses I discovered fuse #17 (15a mini) was blown. I installed and new one and upon turning my lights on, the fuse popped again. My headlights and turn signals work properly. It appears I have a wire shorted to ground somewhere on this circuit.
The truck is completely stock with the exception of an aftermarket radio which I installed two years ago.
I checked all the fuses with my test light and they are all correct (both sides of each fuse). I disconnected the gray connector and black connector in the driver side rear of the truck to isolate the issue. New fuse pops as soon as I turn lights on. I completely removed the tail lights, trailer 7 pin connector , completely removed both headlights. I did not disconnect the roof running lights or the mirror lights. I am completely stumped.
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I just bought a 'new to me' 2005 F250, Crew Cab with a v10. The Carfax showed up clean but after doing some detailing on it, I realized it had been resprayed and there was a little wrinkle in the bumper. I tried using the ignition key to lock the tailgate but it didn't work, so I'm assuming its been replaced. Need to confirm that the ignition key should be the key that works the tailgate lock or is the tailgate a different key that they guy never gave me?
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My 5.4 F250 with 200,000 miles having many problems... It all started a few months ago, when the cam needed to be replaced, and a cam phaser was also replaced at the same time. It ran fine after, then threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire. The guy I took it to said it was due to the huge crack in the exhaust manifold and that was messing with the o2 sensor coming up as a cylinder 3 misfire. So, got the new manifold and it was good for a few weeks.
Now, starting the other night, Friday the 13th, it threw a CEL when I was coming into the driveway. It had been throwing a code every once in a while, and I brought it to school to scan it Friday the 13th but there was no code. So, I assume that it is an intermittent problem, no big deal. When I go to get in my truck to go to work a few hours later, the 5.4 cranks... and cranks... and cranks.
I get it to fire up, and it dies again. Run codes, and it says that the cam positioning sensor is broken. Replace both of them, still acts up ie. doesn't start when it does start it runs very rough and stalls. Get it up to my uncles shop, and replace fuel filter.. Still runs like trash. Run codes now, and it says rich/lean in bank 1.. My uncle tells me to move my truck out of the shop, so I start it up, and it runs great. No hiccups, it idles perfect as I move his truck out of the shop first.
I park my truck outside and let it idle for about 10 mins, and when I come back out it is still idling, perfectly fine. I get in, put it in reverse, and get about 20 feet when it dies and will no longer start back up. What could be going wrong?! Sick of throwing money into this thing! At one time while started up in my uncles shop, it was blowing black smoke, as if it was a diesel!
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My 2005 F-250 6.0 liter Diesel FX4 Lariat is blowing AC through defrost only all the time. I have manual locking hubs and when I engage 4x4 it works perfectly through the ESOF switch. So I am assuming the vacuum pump and lines to the hubs are in good working order but there is possibly a cracked line or fuse blown? I've only had the truck for 2 days and it just happened after purchase. I'm a little unfamiliar with checking vacuum but have done reading and I believe I can do it. I am going to get a manual hand pump and pump to 20lbs and loss shouldn't exceed 1lb per minute. I just need to know which direction to look. Everyone else had their 4x4 not working and I seem to be the only one posting that has ESOF 4x4 capability when the defrost only issue is on.
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I have a 99 ford super duty with a 5.4 triton that is having a troublesome misfire. When you first fire it up it has a bit of a stutter then runs relatively smooth but the engine does still have a small shake to it and you can hear a bit of a choppy sound in the exhaust. Not completely smooth. When you drive it light footed it seems to run perfectly smooth and nice. But if you go past half throttle (sometimes you can go past that point) it starts to cough and is very slow at picking up.
When you reach between 3,250 and 4,500rpm the coughing stops. But the pick up is a little surgy, not steady. It was doing this for a while before the engine light came on. I got it scanned and it showed a miss fire on cylinder two so I have replaced the spark plug, coil, and injector but still the same issue. I opened up the catalytic converter to see if it was plugged up. Nothing there.
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The other day I was checking out my parking aids (they kept saying something was behind me when there was nothing there) and the horn just started blowing by itself, constant on until I disconnected the batteries. Been a few days and just got back to working on it, checked the horn switch in the airbag and it is functioning fine. Hooked the batteries back up, no horn, but after a couple of minutes I start getting little honks out of it, then locked on again. Where I should go from here? Truck was parked, switch off, engine off today when I hooked the batteries up. Never started it or turned the key on.
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My truck is a 2005 6.0 with no after mods and has 73000 miles on it. It began to blow white smoke out exhaust. I changed out the egr valve and cooler. After putting back together it then blew white smoke ran it to clear out. This worked however once it warmed up it began to blow thick white smoke at 20 mph and clears up by the time it reached 30mph and white smoke shoots out at rapid acceleration. As well there is coolant leaking out under the truck from somewhere in the motor about in the center. I am looking to work on this myself as I have heard of owners taking it to shops and paying a lot of money for the prob to not get fixed.
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Haven't been on here for a while. My f250 AC vacuum pump is out. This means the AC being reverted to blowing out the defrost. I have found the defrost/vent vacuum solenoid and zip-tied it open for a vents-only experience. I just realized, without the vacuum pump, there is really no way of determining if it is on recirculate or fresh air. I wish for the recirculate so I don't get someone else's or my own exhaust in the cab. Does the system stay on recirculate without vacuum power? if not what actuator must I zip-tie next?
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My 2005 f350 reverse lights just started to not work . So I checked the fuse and it was blown and every time I put new fuse in it blows, where to check. Sounds like a ground issue am I correct .
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What are the torque specs for the crankshaft,cylinder heads and camshafts for a 2005 f550 v10 6.8?
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I have been having some inconsistency with my transmission in my 2005 F350. I bought it used 2 months ago and have had the low/tow overdrive light blinking. a month ago I removed the pan and changed the filter in the transmission. I had a friend run the diagnostic test and found transmission solenoid code as well as both cat. converters as well as my Number 8 cylinder misfiring... I pulled the transmission pan and filter to find what appears to be 7 solenoids? Where to start?
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(The truck is a 05 f250 with a 5.4l). The problem first started out with the engine temperature gauge spiking and then resetting itself when the truck is turned off and then turned back on. If I drove the truck for any distance it would go into limp mode and the CEL would come on. The code was p1299, which is the cylinder head temperature sensor, and I replaced the sensor but no luck. Then the shop and I went through all accessories hooked up and couldn't find a short until I remembered that my prodigy break controller would occasionally read "ol" or "sh" which both readings are from shorts. I tow a enclosed trailer about 85% of the time and the past week I have been towing it with a different 250 and the same break controller without a problem so I have eliminated the trailer. But the shop just said the problem was the controller and unhooked it.
Now the next day it threw the same code with the controller unhooked and the trailer hooked up. after thinking it seemed that it was happening when i accelerated so I took apart the 7 pin and sure enough there was a little water in it, but after driving it around for a little and no code being thrown I hooked my break controller up and it still was showing ol or sh so i believe there is still a short. Also I noticed that my voltage is reading right at 13v instead of the 13.8-14v it was reading before this issue arose. I think I have narrowed it down to the 7 pin harness and/or electrical in the break components, but do not know what would loop back to the temperature sensor.
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