My rear fenders are pitting and bubbling with rust on both sides. I had my local body shop have at it and it looked good for about 6 months. Now bubbling up again. I see in older trucks like mine that this is a common problem. I'll probably have to replace rhr box if I really want to fix it? Or just learn to live with it.
View 14 RepliesI am sick that my 2008 F250 with 107K miles is exhibiting signs of rust this spring.. While filling up the tank saw a bit of a bubble on the left side top of the wheel well. Another one on the passenger side. I've had the truck since new and have tried to keep it as clean as I can being that it is a daily driver in the rust belt. Certainly thought that I'd get more than 6 years before the rot showed up. Don't remember my 1999 F350 exhibiting that, but it was a dually and had the fiberglass fenders that might have hidden it.
Took it to the local body shop and he told me to get used to it, just a matter of time around here. He said he could work on it, but it would never be fixed, rust would eventually return. He suggested sand blasting myself, repairing as I could, oiling the inside behind the tail lights and bolting on some Bushwacker flares. Having driven Ford trucks all my 40 years of driving I'm going to be looking at Dodges next time I buy.
Drivers side ...
Passenger side ...
Having issues with rear wheel wells rusting, mine is a 2004 f-250. I wax at least 10 times a yr. Can't believe I have rust there...
View 13 Replies have an 04 f150 that is starting to show some rust in the rear wheel wells. Right now there is just a bit of rust where the painted panel is seamed to the inner panel around the arch, but I can see small spots where the paint is starting to bubble about an inch out on the outside of the panel. I want to keep this thing looking nice for a few more years; what should I do?
I'm a very good welder, can hold my own when turning wrenches, have done lots of metal fabrication as well as painting with a cup gun, but I have very little autobody experience.
I am thinking there is rust between the inner and outer panels and that removing the surface rust and repainting would be a very temporary repair, correct? Could I cover it up with some sort of wheel well liner? If so, how to I slow the existing rust? Is there any sort of partial preformed steel panel/well that allow you to cut off the rusty stuff and weld new stuff on? I'm a little leary of the last thought- I could do the fabbing, but not sure how I'd do getting it back to 'smooth'
I noticed today my ranch hand bumped is hitting my fenders, when I originally installed it there was about a 1/2" gap.
All the bolts are tight, however it appears the mount that's attached to the frame is flexing and becoming weak as I can grab the bumper and rock it when it used to be rock solid.
Is there anything I can buy that will reinforce the bumper mounts that are connected to the frame to support this bumper???
Right now it's bolted up with 4 bolts on each side and no additional hardware.
my rear bumper is pretty much eaten up, too.
How difficult is this to replace?
Good source for rear bumpers? Just something stock; don't need anything wild, crazy, lighted, etc.
It's a work/hunting/fishing/hauling truck. That's all.
I have a 2005 f350 lariat 6.0. My horn, cruise volume, heat and fan controls on the wheel are not working. The airbag light isn't on. I am thinking that it's the clock spring. The stereo controls were intermittent for a while so I think it's the clock spring. I just want to be sure. Anything I could check?
View 2 RepliesSo I have a 2005 f250 Super Duty 6.0 diesel it is the xlt with leather. So I don't much care for the steering wheels on this truck so i purchase a 05 f150 steering wheel. The splines and everything match up but the plug for the cruise control does not, need a wiring diagram or have done the swap and can tell me what wires connect where.
View 1 RepliesI just picked up a 2005 SC LB 4x4 5.4 v8 6mt F-350 yesterday and drove it about 250 miles home. It is my first Super Duty, and I love it so far but... the steering has some issues. There seems to be decent amount of play in the steering wheel when I'm driving straight. Also, the truck drives straight when the steering wheel is turned about 30 degrees to the left, and I would like to fix that and bring it to center. When I was cruising on the highway (65-70 mph), there was also two 20 minute periods of time spaced an hour apart where the steering would get light and the truck would dart to the left (i do not think road conditions were a factor as it did not happen on the worst stretches of highway. The truck has 133,000 miles on it, and has had pretty routines maintenance done on it, as it was owned by a drilling business as a work truck to haul tools. The guy I bought it from said that it needed the steering shock/damper replaced, so I will do that, but what else to you think I need to do to the truck?
View 2 RepliesHeard a thumping yesterday as I'm getting on the highway at rush hour. I looked in the drivers mirror and I see my rear wheel flopping around. I had sheared off 6 of the 8 studs. After towing it home I pulled the wheel and tapped out the broken studs. I've never done this before so I'm a bit unsure as to how I get the new studs in. The drum brake assembly is behind the rotor and even if I pulled all that out it still doesn't look like I have enough room. Did I just discover this job is bigger than I thought?
View 6 RepliesSo just as I think I have it figured out what size tire and wheel combo I want to go with, I began thinking about going from an 18" wheel to a 17". I can save some cash, have a few more tire size options and save on tire weight.
I know alot of guys go up to a 20" setup but that's just not my preference on trucks.
Any negative to doing this? 315/75/17 tire size interests me. Had that on a Wrangler and liked the look. Going to look a little more at 17" sizes before deciding.
Checked the EOF vacuum lines and pump but still have a problem. The EOF works and locks the hubs when I switch to 4x4 high, Easy to feel when you turn the wheels but it will not go into low. The light on the dash does not light up the word "low".
View 1 RepliesWhen I shift into 4Lo I get no 4 wheel drive. 4Hi works. Did have a/c redirect to defrost a couple of times. I remember something about the air redirecting having something to do with not having 4x4 but don't know just what it was.
View 8 RepliesI just put a new front driver side wheel hub assembly on last week and i discovered two things. The metal plate that goes in behind the wheel hub assembly needs replaced but idk what it is and i need a new axle seals. But when i put the new hub assembly on, the abs light came on and i cant seem to figure out why? Also my front drivers side of the truck is still making a clunk noise when i hit a bump. Input on that too?
View 6 RepliesI seem to be having a issue on take off with my new Super Duty, it has the michelin atx2 tires than come on these trucks. On any hill or grade on take off she just spins and traction control flashes on dash, what the heck? Do I need to pull out the 4x4 switch to engage the e-locker so this thing will move? Seems crazy to have to put her into 4wheel when there is only a inch of snow on the ground... My 6.0 did this sort of due to all the torque it had, but that had those crap Contitracs on it till I swapped them for BFG at..
View 14 RepliesRecently bought a 2015 f250 xlt.....very impressed with it. Only thing is the wheel feel and look to small. What is the largest size i can run stock? Will 35/12.5 fit on stock 17 wheels or should i just spring for aftermarket rims at the same time? Also exhaust options for the 6.2? Remember, i need load range e!
View 4 RepliesI recently bought some used rockstar 1s off a buddy, installed new tires, balanced, put tapered lug nuts on and I'm still getting a slight vibration above 40mph. Do I need hub centric rings? XD says no, I think I do.
View 2 RepliesGot a problem with my F350 diesel truck's braking system. I pull a 5th wheel and last trip almost burned my breaks up coming down long hill due to having no breaks on the 5th wheel. Had a problem early on with the lack of trailer brakes and module was replaced under warranty. Bought a new module this time and it did not fix the problem. Have braking power when I use the module brakes (Hand) but not when I hit the foot brakes. Have checked the system with a meter and have good voltage with hand break but not with foot brakes. Have a good meter (voltage) read with hand breaks and faint read with foot brakes applied. Also have a faint pulsing read on test light with no brakes at all just key on.
View 2 Repliesthe mechanism that locks the steering wheel is stuck. not the ignition key cylinder (already removed that). how do I release that mechanism to free the steering wheel.
View 3 RepliesHow can you tell when your wheel bearing/hub assembly is going bad? I am hearing what sounds like "metal-on-metal" and I've already changed the brake pads, but the sound still persists. I was thinking about changing out the brake rotors since I did notice an inch long score on the rotor when I was replacing the pads. I don't want to spend a couple hundred dollars on rotors to find out it was my wheel bearing/hub assembly all along.
View 8 RepliesJust bought 2005 F350 XLT. Took it home last night and the alarm started going off at 2:30am for no reason. Stumbled looking for keys and it shut off by itself before I could(it sounded like it rearmed as well). At about 5:00am it went off again. We live in a rural area with not much around.
My understanding is that the XLT would be a Ford 'accessory' item. It does not seem to be too sensitive as I jumped on the back bumper to see if it would set it off but it did not.
The only thing I can think of is that last night, I had flicked all four of the Auxilary switched on the dash and forgot to switch them off. I popped the hood and none of those wires appear to be connected to anything.
I can't see why those switches would have anything to do with it but I am grasping at straws here.