I 'm looking to replace my manifold studs in my 2005 V10. Looking to replace with bolts. Would like someone who has done this to chime in with what they have had success using for bolts. Size length grade etc.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 f250 5.4 no mods. its got 120k and needs a wake up. the passengers side exhaust manifold is leaking to the point of fixing and would like to get some input before the big purchase. my question is, headers or new manifold, and what brands is preferred for both I really don't prefer one or the other i just want the best fix really. Changing coil pack and getting more performance out of them and if so what brand. I would like a boost in lower end acceleration and throttle response, like a programmer or such. and if so what brand once again.
View 10 RepliesWife took truck out and turned around after going less then a mile, saying it was running very bad. We got this truck about two months ago at a state vehicle auction. It was a state used truck, 145,000 miles, 05 Ford F350, ext cab and 8' bed. Anyway at first I thought it was valve tap until research said an exhaust manifold. With a fog machine in rear exhaust pipe we confirmed it was leaking and replaced the exhaust manifold. Figured it was probably a good time to replace spark plugs too. Took truck for a ride and she still buck and farted.
Got a code machine and got P0171 and P0174. Couldn't find a vacuum leak, but your could hear the air being sucked in. went to local parts store, guys couldn't find leak, but they said truck sounded like a steam machine. today I made a homemade smoke machine and smoke came from air intake, figured the gaskets were bad. The pictures show what I saw when I took the gaskets off. The port that has melted is the same port were the exhaust manifold was leaking from. Am in deep "doo-doo". What caused this?
So...I'm dealing with a leaking passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2001 F250 SD. (Extended cab, long bed, 5.4 XLT.) Been slowly making progress on getting the manifold bolts off (the ones that weren't broken already at least.) Got all the top row off and the flange free yesterday, today was on to the bottom row.
I undid the 2 bolts on the PS motor mount studs and carefully jacked up the motor to lift that side a bit. I couldn't figure out anywhere else so I put a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan and used that point to lift up with the truck's bottle jack.
Worked well enough, but when I decided to call it a night I lowered it back down. Looking at one of the studs that I could watch as I moved it, the mount came to rest about an inch and a half away from where it started. (Higher up on the slant.)
How much does this matter? If the position is critical, how can I go about getting it back to the starting point?
I have a feeling the fact that I'm working in my uneven, unloved driveway had a lot to do with this. The passenger side is raised slightly and on a jack stand. Just enough to get the wheel on and off for access through the well.
On a positive note, I only have one more bolt to remove to free the manifold, the one right above the mount. I couldn't get anywhere with my nut extractors so I finally started grinding away at the nut with my Dremel. Should be able to get the old manifold off tomorrow and start working to get the studs out.
My Irwin Bolt Grips worked a treat combined with a MAP Pro torch on the others, but not so much on the hardest to reach one. Go figure. For starters there just isn't enough room to get a good solid hammer blow on it to seat it, and to make things way more complicated for some reason that particular location had more exposed stud length, so I couldn't get it all the way on to the nut and still get a ratchet wrench into the other end too.
Heard a thumping yesterday as I'm getting on the highway at rush hour. I looked in the drivers mirror and I see my rear wheel flopping around. I had sheared off 6 of the 8 studs. After towing it home I pulled the wheel and tapped out the broken studs. I've never done this before so I'm a bit unsure as to how I get the new studs in. The drum brake assembly is behind the rotor and even if I pulled all that out it still doesn't look like I have enough room. Did I just discover this job is bigger than I thought?
View 6 Replies04 f250, 5.4 ,90,000mi. Checked my oil today and saw this white flaky crap on the dipstick its salt, probably from a broken dipstick tube, probably broken at the manifold right where there was a huge deposit salt right on top. The manifold is leaking anyway I was hoping to wait till spring when everything dries out and warms up a little bit, but with salt getting into the engine I think I have to do it now. Is there any way to deflect moisture off the road away from the exhaust manifolds?
View 4 RepliesI started to do my manifold and am 2 and 2. I got 2 out and two broke on top. So far I haven't been able to do anything w the bottom. I have basically seen 2 ways to get the studs out when they break. The first I'd to drill w an ez out and the 2nd is to weld a nut on. I'm not great w a drill and can't weld. I was wondering if using JB weld might be an option. I have never used the stuff but supposedly it's pretty strong. Is there any risk of welding the nut to the head?
View 12 RepliesMy '08 S.D. (5.4) has a cracked exhaust manifold, which I've heard is fairly common. Crappy Ford design. The local dealer has them in stock (imagine that, just like the 'non-bad' coil caps from some years ago, that they were instructed by Ford to keep at least 10 on stock at all times) for the passenger and driver's side. What are the part numbers?
View 10 RepliesThe exhaust leak is not too horrible, but, enough that I need to address it soon. Only on the driver's side; (today).
I'm planning on having a lot of PB blaster on hand, torch, broken stud removers, screw/stud extractors (easy outs), ...a hammer. Maybe a few cold Budweisers
I have a early 99 7.3, I have parked it for the winter an I had moved the truck the other day an have noticed it had leaked some oil, after looking for the source I found that it is leaking out of the #7 cylinder exhaust port. I know the oil is forsure in the manifolds usually burns off but now that it is not getting to operating temp it is staying a liquid. Where is this oil coming from?!!
View 4 RepliesAbout to do the exhaust manifold gaskets on my 03 f250.
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2006 F250 5.4l. Recently Ive had an issue when I am driving, usually when the engine is at 3k+ RPMs, where the engine will lose power and the cel with blink. Usually it only takes a few seconds for the blinking to stop and the engine continues as normal. Now, I know that at least one of my exhaust manifolds are leaking.
Could it be that the engine is not receiving enough back pressure and that is causing it to lose power? I had a similar issue last year, basically the same symptoms, and it turned out that I had two cylinders misfiring. I replaced the coil packs and that fixed it. This time there are no codes referring to a cylinder misfire. There is a code for EVAP leak (I think), but I was told it was nothing to worry about.
is there a set of headers for my 2008 f250 5.4 rwd that will install somewhat easily without me throwing tools across the garage? I see a lot more options for the older trucks. I have a pretty annoying exhaust manifold leak and I figure I might as well throw some headers on if im gonna be in there. I really want to go for sound rather than power. I think I saw a set by flowmaster that looked decent.
View 6 Replies2003 F350 short bed 6.8L V10---On start up a slight tap sound, almost like a cranky lifter, but it is an exhaust manifold leak. At the bolts, I am not sure. This has been this way for 5 years, no better no worse. After I run about 2 to 3 minutes it seals itself. Not a hint of noise. Due to heat, something is expanding to seal it (aluminum).
At my annual PA. State Safety Inspection the Tech says 'that has to be corrected if it worsens', but It does not fail inspection. This puzzles me.
How is the call made for correction. A flip of the coin, a guess and is it serious enough to fail inspection. Is this normal with the 6.8L or V10s. I know the cost involved for a fix is big league, but can it be justified. TRUCK RUNS GREAT !---
Bolts breaking on the exhaust manifold. If so why isn't ford doing a recall on this problem I have a F350 V10 90K miles and 3 on the top drivers side are missing not sure on the passenger side. Is this a problem with all the ford engines I have never had this problem with any other truck or car I have owned.
View 5 RepliesI have an 03 F250, 5.4, 4x4, with aprox. 130k miles. I recently had my exhaust manifolds replaced because 1 literally cracked in half. Ever since the replacement, I'm getting worse gas mileage! Im only getting aprox. 250 miles to a tank when before it was well over 325 (highway)...
View 1 Replies1999 F-250 LD 5.4... There is a hole on the back of the upper intake manifold, just below the back of the throttle body, is a vacuum hose supposed to be attached here? Have a serious vacuum leak, no coolant loss, no overheating, just had cop's and spark plugs done, now she backfires, stalls and will not stay running, mech. says its an intake gasket but the gasket and lower intake manifold look new.
View 7 RepliesI've got the dreaded broken exhaust manifold studs on my 2004 F250 V10. I don't drive it much (just 50,000 miles in 10 years) and confess I've ignored the hissing for quite a while. Is there really a permanent fix for these broken studs? Or should I expect to be replacing broken studs every 2 or 3 years?
If there is a permanent fix what is it? Special studs? Special manifold? I want to keep this truck a long time and don't want to be replacing these studs every few years.
Should I attempt to replace the passenger side manifold with what I can get from Napa. I would rather pay 100 bucks for everything and do it myself. But, Im concerned about replacing the studs. From what I have read the studs seam to be the problems for most leaks on these vehicles. I have torque equip. and other tools to do the job. Just want others opinions about this project. How hard really is it? 1999 5.4L F250 SDuty....
View 14 RepliesI needed to replace the intake manifold gasket on my 2002 f250 v10. Tore everything apart put the new gasket in which was the same as the old one lyrics to notice something isn't right. I have been driving the truck for over 10 years like this. Is it OK to just continue bolting everything down and go on like this? I am guessing the prior owner 10 plus years ago put the wrong intake on. I keep looking up intakes but they all look just like the one I have. Also that port exposed is on the back passenger side.
View 3 RepliesI have an exhaust leak between the manifold and turbo ( in the flex part of the pipe) on my 2008 6.4 f250 would this create rough idle when at operating temp?
View 2 Replies