Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 - Replacement Of Lower Seat Bottom?
Jan 5, 2014
What is the part # for this bottom for an 05' F250 supercab?
I swapped these seats into my OBS truck, but the driver's seat bottom has the typical wear/tear on it and its getting worse.
I have been searching for three days for a replacement bottom cover. I have found them for F150s and the pattern is close but not right. I cannot find them for F250s or F350s as I cannot find the proper part # for the gray DS cover.
This is the tan one: 4c3z-2562900-eaa
How can I pull this up?
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My "new" truck has a sluggish seatbelt on the driver's side. It won't retract all the way.
How do I get to the mechanism to have a look at it or put in a replacement?
The belt on this one comes out of the top of the seat, not from against the door.
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My Dad has a 2006 F550 Lariat with the grey leather seats, and the drivers seat is starting to fall apart. So my Dad is wanting to replace it. My Dad thinks its from a lot of sliding in and out, and having all kinds of dirt and other stuff on it. It has a big spot torn in the lower left of it and then the armrest is starting to rip as well.
So I was wondering where a good place to get some replacement seats for it was. Definitely leather and grey to match the rear seats since its a crew cab. I don't think it necessarily has to be stock, but something that looks good and still at least somewhat matches the rear and rest of the interior.
Here's some pictures of the seat. Nice hole in the floor mat too. I think some nice plastic ones would work and look much better.
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I have a 2005 f250 that has a wander and a clunk what feels like under the drivers seat. The driver side bushing in the radius arm has no dirt and looks like wear on it compared to the passenger side which is completely covered in dirt. My question is, bushing wear out will cause wander and a clunk. Is it hard to replace?
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I have a 2005 F250 King Ranch 4X4 Diesel and now experiencing an issue with the front seat belts
The problem is while being worn sometimes they will not let you lean forward- they act like you have a foot on the brake pedal and are locked-you have to lean back and forth several times to get them to let out if reaching for something on the dash etc..
I have searched the forum and found many issues where the seat belts stopped retracting- but my issue seems to be unique in that the seat belt will at times 'Not Let Out" when you lean forward.
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So this is my major problem, leaving for a camping trip tomorrow afternoon. It's just 15 miles away, easy flat drive. What has happened is the trans line coming out of the bottom of radiator is leaking next to the fitting about an 1/8 ' out, So I can't cut off and splice in hose for the trip. I worked on it for about an hour, rusted on, tried some heat and now have some PB Blast on it and all I am doing is starting to round off the head of fitting. Is there any way to bypass this just to get the camper to campground and then get to a shop while we are gone Don't care if I have to splice and cut, will get new lines later.
2004 f250SD 5.4 83000miles
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What this could be? It blinks all the time was on the truck when I got it. Has a button in the bottom of it. This is on a 2009 super duty 250 and the 6.4 L if that matters.
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Adding red/white reflective tape to the rear of superduty? Pros, cons, legal etc?
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I put on huge mud flaps front and rear, have the platinum running boards, spray inner fenders on rear .....thought I had it covered....getting rock chip on front of rear fenders can see impact marks on hard plastic protector and upto 8 inches above it.....thought of 3m on Monday morning but is there anything else? I think the gravel is coming off front wheel hitting bottom of running board touching off road and getting me....can't think of any other way.
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I need to do both lower ball joints. is there a write up or process to do it? do I have to remove the whole hub assembly/knuckle thing or can I do it with all that stuff in place?
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2002 F-350SD V10 Automatic. Running down the road with no load or with load. First gauges bottom out, next overspeed light starts flashing, engine goes to 3000 RPM on it's own. Stays that way until I shut off then restart. Sometimes it does this several times in one mile.
Second trick, again driving along, all gauges stay up but engine just stops. Got to set dead for 5 minutes before it will start. The shop says on the first problem this happens: Voltage goes way low then goes way high then everything starts failing. We changed battery but no luck. Got to be down line from battery.
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I have replaced my ball joints and now putting everything back together. I am having trouble tightening the nut on the lower ball joint, the joint turns with the nut as soon as it starts to get tight.
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This is an early 99 f250 powerstroke 6spd manual 4wd, is it common or normal to hear a lot of transmission rattle at low rpm especially in lower gears under a load. Starting off from a dead stop it sounds awful until about 1500 rpm where it clears up (or load is reduced). I'm hoping it's just the power pulses going through splined shafts, gears, etc.
210k on the truck, just changed every fluid in it.
I've been a honda owner and mechanic for all of my driving years where shifting at 8500 rpm is common and now I'm having a hard time learning what this thing likes, rpm ranges to avoid, ect; even shifting I find difficult. At least you can heel toe with the pedal arrangement...
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I have an '04 Super Duty 6.0 and am just a couple hundred miles shy of 200K. The truck seems to be running great and I want to keep it that way. I'd rather invest in some upgrades and longevity than go into debt for a newer truck. What I can upgrade/do to keep this thing going for another 200K? I have replaced all of the injectors, the FICM, turbo, and the EGR valve through attrition. I also have a "very minor oil seepage leak on the lower end" of my engine. I'm not anywhere near mechanically inclined with vehicles, so almost any work that needs to be done will be through a local shop. I keep reading about "bullet proofing" the engine and have found very mixed reviews ranging from "YOU MUST DO THIS" to "it isn't necessary" or "bulletproof products are crap made in China".
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1999 F250 7.3 240k miles .... This is the second truck to act like this on me after I cleaned the in tank filters.
I had to cut the fpr spring to 30lbs for the truck to start fine cold and idle ok but has no power. When hot it wants to die and or dies at idle and has next to no power. ( I'm guessing from lack of fuel) but it's the only way for me to use it. With a new spring and 60ish lbs of fuel pressure, they won't even start.
I cleaned the in tank filters. New fuel filter. new oil. rebuilt the ipr. unplugged the ipc. no loss of boost. checked my uvch, wiggled all harnesses with no difference. I also tried dropping the tank again in case I pinched the return line but that made no difference.
I'm guessing that I need new injectors. I'm not close to anyone with a computer nor can I afford to throw away any more money at the moment.
Totally stumped and cannot seem to find a definitive answer online so far. Both trucks ran somewhat ok before and got worst once I dropped the tank and cleaned the filters which increased the fuel pressure. This is my second truck to act this way.
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I have a new 2013 f 250 gaser the truck I noticed sits crooked it is lower on drivers side by almost 2 inches and not from the fuel tank.
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OK, I never heard of any "key" to lower the spare tire. However, the nice people at Discount tire weren't able to swap my tire because I'm missing some "key". How do I get a key for this and ELIMINATE the need for the key? 2000 F250 Crew Cab 4x4.
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I bought my first vehicle last October, a '99 F-250 with a 6.8 V10. I later found out (AFTER hauling a big load of rocks in a dump trailer) that one of the bottom leaf springs was broken. So this winter I have been thinking on what I want to do about it when it warms up. This is pretty much on top of the "to do" list for my truck. I did make a thread about putting 1 ton springs under it, but I think I'll just stick with the regular 3/4 ton springs. So now this is where I have another question, and I think this pic will tell some of it:
Now I'm not sure if those rear springs are stock, but that rear end is way the heck up there! The truck itself is not level, the front looks to be correct height, but not the back. A buddy at school and I were talking about a leveling kit for the front. But the more I look at it, I think the rear end should come down. I don't want to get bigger tires, as I just put brand new Transforce AT's on the back and plan to put new ones on the front in the near future.
Another question of mine is, would this have been a truck ordered just for pulling a camper? It has holes for a fifth wheel hitch in the bed, the rear end sits high, and it didn't come with a tow package. The PO told me that he put the receiver hitch on it. I'm fixing up stuff on it one thing at a time. Springs just happen to be next on the list.
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Bought a new truck and had the dealer put a leveling kit (readylift 2.5" kit) on it with bigger tires. The rear now sits lower than the front. Any way to fix this? I want the truck to sit level as much as possible loaded and unloaded. New 2016 F350 KR
I added a pic ....
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Chasing a problem for sometime now with my early 99 F350 auto 7.3 w/ 134K. This problem seems to only happen when the temperature outside is lower than 20 degrees.
When approaching a hill the truck will lose top end power (2000 RPM and greater) and shudder. Basically, start at 65 and you reach the top and 45. My gauges are all normal, no codes are present, no leaks or other abnormal sounds.
Fuel pressure is good (even under load), passed buzz test, passed CCT test. Is this possibly just the nature of the beast (being cold)? Seems to go away after 30 minutes or more of driving. In the last month, we have:
-changed all fluids and filters, except in tank filters
-sensors replaced: map, ebpv (and tube), IAT, and intake spyder sensor
-boost leak checked
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I have a 2016 F250 6.2 XLT CC 4X4 that is mostly stock, except I did put on 18x9 wheels and LT275/70/18 Cooper ST MAXX tires. I have noticed recently on hwy driving and even in town driving, that the passenger seat rattles/vibrates quite loudly. Obviously if there is someone setting in the seat, it is just fine.
Is this a common issue? Is there a quick fix (tightening a couple bolts or replacing a couple clips?) Or should I take this back to the dealer for warranty?
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