I was driving on the highway last night when it was like somebody dropped my transmission into neutral. I was cruising at 50mph slight hill. There was no noise or any thing. Now I have nothing.
It's a 2005 f350 4x4 automatic
I can only assume I'll be needing a new transmission but I am hopeful of a small problem...
I have a 1999 F-250 4X4 7.3 lit Diesel engine. My problem is my transmission will go into reverse great no problem but it won't go forward. I have no problem rebuilding the transmission if that's what it needs, I just want to make sure there isn't a electrical issue from the PCM first?
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 f350 V10 gas dually dumper. Today while driving I stopped at a stop sign. When I went to continue the transmission seemed to be in neutral, then it caught and I drove through the intersection. It 2-3 seconds later disengaged again. I pulled over. When I attempted to put it in park it grinded. (Bad enough I just turned off the key). I checked the fluid. It was close to full and red. While in park I restarted. Truck started fine. I shifted into drive and nothing. It was like it was in neutral still. I attempted to put in park again and more grinding. Also while in park it does not hold the truck from rolling. After getting towed home I checked the tranny fluid again and it was still looking ok. I drained the transfer case also. The fluid in there was near black an appeared to have a metallic look. Does this problem seem to be just my tc or tranny issues also?
View 8 RepliesMy 05 f250 v10 runs rough at points and sometimes quits when driving. I find it too that I can't rev it in park or neutral and sometimes when it is cold I can. I was wondering if it was a tps or something with the intake...
View 6 RepliesThis is an early 99 f250 powerstroke 6spd manual 4wd, is it common or normal to hear a lot of transmission rattle at low rpm especially in lower gears under a load. Starting off from a dead stop it sounds awful until about 1500 rpm where it clears up (or load is reduced). I'm hoping it's just the power pulses going through splined shafts, gears, etc.
210k on the truck, just changed every fluid in it.
I've been a honda owner and mechanic for all of my driving years where shifting at 8500 rpm is common and now I'm having a hard time learning what this thing likes, rpm ranges to avoid, ect; even shifting I find difficult. At least you can heel toe with the pedal arrangement...
Was driving my 2000 Ford F-350 stopped transmission would not move no more there was no noises no nothing just stopped pulling no gears nothing only Park works...
View 10 Replies06 F550 w/5r110w. Truck and trans runs great then trans acts like it was shifted into neutral, rpm's flare up and if you don't get your foot out of it the trans will re engage aggressively. Changed the speed sensor on the rear axle, there are no codes, had a trans shop change the filters and fluids then change out all of the solenoids. They tell me its not a trans problem.
View 3 RepliesMy buddy's 2001 7.3L F350 has had 3 transmissions. Rebuilt and used. Once the new trans is in he goes like 15 miles and then is starts shifting hard and grinding gears. What this could be?
View 8 RepliesI am again trying to fix my truck. 2005 F-250 6.0 4wd, automatic. Truck now has 89K on it. Truck does not seam to go into lockup mode while driving down the road. it started just after I spun my wheels in a snow storm. No symptom's previous to this. No codes in dash no lights and also no codes when I checked it with an obd code reader.
View 4 RepliesSuddenly my cruise control dropped out. With some investigation I'm pretty sure it's that sensor or switch stuck to on position. Brake light is on. Checked the brake system and everything works well. Fluid is full all 4 pads replaced 2 days ago. Plenty brake power.
The question is: how can I bypass that switch to get my cruise control back? I see 4 wires coming out of the switch: red, blue, green, red/orange, green/purple. How do I do it?
I bought my F-250 Super Duty 6.0 last October, and I am extremely happy with it comparing to my former '03 Dodge 2500 TD. The Ford drives so much better!
There is only one problem I have with it. Without pulling it shifts nice and has lots of power. A Month ago I bought a fifth wheel trailer and I hardly notice it behind the truck, also it doesn't use more diesel pulling. However going uphill the transmission seems to slip, and I can hear (sounds like) a fan running loud? I loose speed.
All the temperature gauges stay normal, no difference. It starts to pull worse. I replaced de tranny filters, inside and the outside one. Also I did put the correct transmission fluid in there, no difference. Almost no grindings in the oilpan/magnet.
I looked on many sites, but cannot find anything on this. Personally I think it's the torque converter? My final step would be to have the transmission rebuild, with the best parts available, (close to WA, ID, MO)...
So yesterday I drove across town and back to pick up a piece of lawn equipment. About a 30 min hwy drive each way. On the way there I was in stop and go traffic for about 15mins and noticed toward the end the truck would pull hard to the right when stopping hard and sudden. I figure it was my steering. Been having issues with horrible steering since my last alignment and adjusting the caster. Truck wanders, steering feels loose, will not fully recenter, and feels like it binds then releases toward center position. That's a different issue, I assume. I stop on the way to get some cash and everything is normal. Pick up the equipment and drive back. When coming to a stop the truck will pull towards the right and when I suddenly stop it now pulls to the left.
I get home and get out and smell something burning and hot. Grabbed my IR thermometer and hit both front wheels. Passenger is 150f brake rotor is 175f, drive is 280f brake rotor is 580f. So im assuming my caliper seized up or started to stick. I plan to jack up the front and look at the hubs and calipers. Any other test I can do to narrow down the culprit. I am thinking the hoses may be collapsing especially since I had to disconnect and flip them during the lift. Just weird that the hard pull would switch sides if only the drivers was sticking. Could my bad steering and brake issue be related? I have also noticed my braking power has dropped recently. Brake fluid looks good but power steering smells like brake fluid and is orange.
Pulled the tire when I got home today. A little resistance when spinning by hand, more than there should be. Pulled the caliper and greased the slides. Found out my hub is bad so those are on the short list now. Reassembled and had my wife hit the brakes while I spun the tire. Progressively got harder and harder to spin. Was looking at the brake hoses, how much should they move and ''shrink'' when the brakes are applied? Also if I hit the brakes repeatedly while rolling down my drive way the pedal gets harder and the truck doesn't want to stop and the pedal will slowly push all the way to the floor. Now I am just lost at what is causing my braking issue.
2002 7.3 powerstroke, no info about service or work done, looks to have a new hpop, know for sure that there was a new lpop installed, claims no gouging in front cover, died going down road oil pressure gauge on dash dropped and was taken to a shop and did not get complete diagnosis, where should i start? Shop drained oil to take sample and no metal shavings or flakes were present according to them...
View 3 RepliesI bought a 2006 F250 6.0L a couple of months ago, from a dealership. It's been bulletproofed already, has an intake, coolant filter kit. Has 95k (mileage). Today, my fuel gauge dropped to empty from 3/4 of a tank for a couple of miles and set off the CE light. I hooked my scan tool to it, to clear the code (P0460).
After just checking other things out with the scan tool. I cleared it and went on... I had to run to the store, later on... I was pulling out of the neighborhood and the gas pedal was a lot more "touchy" and the truck, responded to it and it launched pretty good and blew a good amount of black smoke.
Do any of you think this has/or had a tuner on it and I may have activated it with my scanner?
I was changing the vct solenoid on the driver side and I dropped a 3-4" Allen wrench inside the hole. I tool the valve cover off and can't see much down inside. Its not to the right by the cams, I think it fell down in front by the timing chains but I can't see it caught on a chain or anywhere. I drained the oil and took the filter off and looked in the oil pan with a snake camera, no luck.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 f250 super duty turbo diesel 6.0 automatic. The problem I'm having is, when I engage the tow/haul button the transmission doesn't down shift unless I feather the pedal. Also the engine will overheat at times. I've replaced the thermostat, but that's all so far.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 F450 that was bought new as a cab and chassis. The truck belonged to my dad who passed away two years ago and now I have it. I am wondering if it has 4.30 or 4.88 gears. The rear end is huge! It has an aluminum cover with cooling fins on it, not sure if they both had that or not. I looked online and I think it said all cab and chassis had 4.88?
View 10 RepliesI've got a 2003 350 7.3, with the zf6, approx 225000. I've been chasing a vibration that can be felt in the whole truck for quite a while. Feels like a wheel bearing danm near shot. But after replacing both wheel bearings and making over the whole front end it didn't go away. So I replaced the clutch and throw out bearing cause it was getting bad anyway. The vi ration is still there so I checked the harmonic balancer and it was bad so I replaced that. Still no dice. I know that it's coming from the trans, you can hear it in when jacked up and running in gear. Shifts fine in all gears. But the vibration/ clunking is there in all gears and it's getting bad. It feels like a bearing going out. Could it be input shaft bearing or pilot?
View 14 RepliesThe truck I'm working on is a 2003 f550 with a 6.0, and 382000 kilometers. My service truck died on me couple days ago, while running. As I rolled to a stop, I noticed that my temp gauge on the dash dropped to cold. (Truck was hot). Tried starting, and I have a crank, no start situation.
After towing it to my shop at work, I hooked it up to my scanner, and found that the pcm will not communicate with the scanner (otc genisis). I have no injector buzz with key on, wait to start light comes on for an abnormally long time. I have 48.3 volts on the ficm,(4 screw), and haven't been able to find any chafed wires as of yet.
How do I remove the neutral safety switch? I bought a replacement and am having trouble removing it.
After shifting into neutral, I disconnected the connector, then unbolted the two screws. Now I can't get the little white ring that connects the lever coming from the transmission to the actual switch. I have tried prying it off with a screwdriver, spraying a little PB Blaster to lubricate it a little. Nothing will get it off it seems.
I'm leaving to go back up to school tomorrow afternoon, and I need to have this fixed before I leave.
I was plowing snow this morning when all of a sudden I had no 4x4. or should I say VERY little.
I clicked it in and out of 4wd to see if it would re-engage. and Nope. Nothing good. Got out and did a walk around, only to find that my passengers locking hub apparently decided it was a good day to run away from home. (Yes. It is now an empty hole )
Now, before we diagnose why, or where I should preface this by saying that I replaced the wheel hub a while back and the locker fell out after the replacement and had some not perfect gears on it. The locking ring was replaced but obviously that is the culprit somewhere.
So with that being said, I pushed the hub up into a VERY large snowpile someplace. Not exactly sure where and tearing it down is not an option with it's location without being able to re-stack it. (Directly on the side of a main road) So I figure I will just replace it.
So. here is the question. What should i replace it with. Of course this is one of those retarded auto lockers and manual options that seem to work when they want. and ONLY when they want, unless of course they are set to lock.
Should I just get a regular hub? Or is there really a benefit to the Warn replacement kit.